Post by: adamR on October 02, 2015, 05:49:08 PM
Recently I was searching the web and saw a lot about windex. So I cleaned my rifle with the windex and it cleaned it so freaking well!!! It looked great!
:bdid:
I happened to look down the barrel today before I loaded it and saw some rust, took it apart and my freaking barrel was covered in rust. I read a lot of different forums about windex and not one of them mentioned destroying your barrel after cleaning it...
So, what's the best way to clean my barrel cuz I sure as heck ain't using windex again?
Post by: Miles on October 02, 2015, 06:03:46 PM
Post by: trophyhunt on October 02, 2015, 06:14:20 PM
Post by: 2labs on October 02, 2015, 06:26:33 PM
I tear mine down completely, put it in the bath tub of hot soapy water. Let soak a few minutes and then scrub clean. I wire brush, rinse and dry off. Then I put the smaller parts in the oven at low temp to completely dry out. Then use a lube on the inside barrel and other parts, store away and it's looks like brand new. Owned mine for about 6 years.
This.... The difference is I do it in the deep sink. Then everything gets a rem oil wipe down. Looks like the day I bought it.
Post by: superdown on October 02, 2015, 06:41:52 PM
Post by: adamR on October 02, 2015, 06:49:12 PM
Post by: superdown on October 02, 2015, 06:56:09 PM
Post by: hollymaster on October 02, 2015, 07:36:23 PM
I read somewhere that you shouldn't use normal gun oils, is this true?Oil and powder don't mix. As long as you dry the bore, your good.
Post by: PyroBlack on October 02, 2015, 07:38:27 PM
I read somewhere that you shouldn't use normal gun oils, is this true?
You may have read that in conversations about Blackhorn 209 powder. That particular powder works best with synthetic gun oil, not the normal gun oils of many decades past.
Any time you clean the bore (even with Windex), be sure to follow that with a dry patch - then a 91% rubbing alcohol patch - then two dry patches - then a gun oil patch that is wet, not dripping.
Windex is one of the weakest cleaners to use. So is soap and water. The only time my MLs see soap and water is my sidelock, when flushing out the bolster drum. If it weren't for flushing that drum, my MLs would never see water inside them.
Water/moisture is an enemy to muzzleloaders. Dish soap and water cannot remove carbon, plastic from sabots, lead or copper. Neither can Windex.
Post by: cooltimber on October 02, 2015, 07:54:02 PM
I'll add this ,put a[ chrome] .357 empty case down the bore and using a flashlight you can see any imperfection. THat rifle is just like the day I got it clean and no rust. simple
Post by: T-Bone on October 04, 2015, 07:11:03 AM
Never use modern petroleum based oils when cleaning; they react with black powder and BP substitutes to produce rust. Cock the hammer; remove the stock pin and take off the barrel. Use a nipple wrench and remove the nipple. In a small bucket, put boiling water and a small (drop or two) of dish washing soap; toss the nipple in and put the barrel nipple hole down into the water. With a shotgun-type cleaning rod; dampen a patch and start working it from the muzzle to slosh out the barrel. Remove the barrel and the nipple from the water; if you used boiling water; they will be amazingly dry. Run a few dry patches down the barrel and of course, dry off the exterior of the barrel and the nipple. Coat a clean patch with T/C Bore Butter or Tradition's Lube 1000 and run it up and down the bore. Wipe down the exterior of the gun with same; re-assemble and re-attach the nipple after a light application of the lube on only the threads and a peek to the light to make sure it is clear. Use of a brass brush destroys the seasoning of the bore and I would only use it on a neglected gun.
The above process is actually fairly quick; however, with any BP firearm, you need to clean it ASAP after shooting. I've shot a traditional T/C Hawken-type muzzleloader for decades with #11 caps and Pyrodex RS Select and never had a misfire by strictly staying to the above.
Post by: PA BEN on October 04, 2015, 07:58:30 AM
I use boiling hot water; I brush out the bore then place the action in a bucket and pour the hot water down the barrow. Dump that water and add dish soap, pour hot water down again and pump the water up the barrow with the rod and a patch until clear. I finish with more boiling hot water down the barrow and let dry, if you use very hot water it will dry quick and not rust. All small parts I put in very hot water too. I never oil the bore when I'm hunting only the outside of the gun, I oil everything before I store my ML and give it a good cleaning before the next hunt.I read somewhere that you shouldn't use normal gun oils, is this true?Oil and powder don't mix. As long as you dry the bore, your good.
Post by: Smoke on October 05, 2015, 02:44:53 PM
if just cleaning between hunts I don't oil the inside, if putting the gun away for more then a couple of weeks (end of season) I run a oiled patch down the barrel, followed by a dry one, then when comes time to shoot again I pop 2-3 caps first to burn out any residual oil before loading... never had a problemI read somewhere that you shouldn't use normal gun oils, is this true?Oil and powder don't mix. As long as you dry the bore, your good.
Post by: Karl Blanchard on October 05, 2015, 03:05:02 PM
Post by: Chesapeake on October 05, 2015, 11:59:47 PM
Maybe good for that type purpose, but you would need to then rinse it out and oil the barrel.
I clean with hot soapy water, then dry and light oil. I keep oil out of the nipple and breach plug. I just run a few dry patches to remove the oil prior to loading. Never had any issues with this method.
Post by: rasbo on October 06, 2015, 04:00:41 AM
Post by: ndcasla on October 06, 2015, 05:33:38 AM
Post by: MD36 on October 07, 2015, 05:41:38 AM
Post by: JohnVH on November 07, 2015, 07:59:40 PM
Post by: Dan-o on November 07, 2015, 08:05:28 PM
Post by: PyroBlack on November 08, 2015, 08:00:16 AM
Whats the best way to remove rust from the bore?
Either Kano Kroil or (easier to find) PB Blaster, in conjunction with JB Bore Paste. Best to try it first with a patched jag. For tougher removal, use your brass bore brush.
Use as directed on the label. You need to use both the oil and JB's. This is for light rust removal. You can also substitute/alternate a cleaning patch with 0000 steel wool for tougher work. Then buy a quality rust preventer/inhibitor. I like Safariland Breakfree Collector. It really layers and protects - even in bores where rust reappears easily.... guaranteed for five years in normal bores.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/821194/break-free-collector-long-term-gun-storage-preservative-gun-oil-4-oz-liquid (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/821194/break-free-collector-long-term-gun-storage-preservative-gun-oil-4-oz-liquid)
Post by: ghosthunter on November 08, 2015, 08:27:05 AM
I use boiling hot water; I brush out the bore then place the action in a bucket and pour the hot water down the barrow. Dump that water and add dish soap, pour hot water down again and pump the water up the barrow with the rod and a patch until clear. I finish with more boiling hot water down the barrow and let dry, if you use very hot water it will dry quick and not rust. All small parts I put in very hot water too. I never oil the bore when I'm hunting only the outside of the gun, I oil everything before I store my ML and give it a good cleaning before the next hunt.I read somewhere that you shouldn't use normal gun oils, is this true?Oil and powder don't mix. As long as you dry the bore, your good.
I do the same. But no soap any more.
Post by: bobcat on November 08, 2015, 04:40:18 PM
Post by: Sabotloader on November 08, 2015, 05:46:51 PM
I don't know why there would be an issue with using normal gun oil and solvents for muzzleloaders. I do and it's never been a problem.
If you are shooting real BP you could have a problem with the formation of a black sludge...
Post by: MountainDevil54 on November 11, 2015, 09:32:51 AM
As for windex causing rust, it is 99% lake michigan with ammonia in the mix.
Clean it, oil it, check it a couple days down the road.
Normally after a nice soapy warm water bath, I run a shot of alcohol to flush any moisture/water, dry patch it and then run a patch with birchwood casey 2 in 1 bore scrubber which cleans and prevents rust. Barricade is also another good product and removes easily.
Post by: cowboycraig on December 07, 2015, 03:50:04 PM
Post by: JKEEN33 on December 07, 2015, 04:10:10 PM
Post by: PyroBlack on December 07, 2015, 07:53:18 PM
Post by: bobcat on December 07, 2015, 09:38:48 PM
http://www.cabelas.com/product/CVA-reg-Barrel-Blaster-Cleaning-Accessories/1383672.uts
Post by: Duckslayer89 on December 07, 2015, 09:40:38 PM
Anyone use Ballistol? I am new to Muzzle Loading and Ballistol has always been my standard.
Did you pick a muzzleloader up yet?
Post by: Bigshooter on December 07, 2015, 09:54:23 PM
I started using CVA barrel blaster just less than a year ago. I love it. Makes cleaning so quick and simple. Probably will never use hot water and dish soap in a bucket ever again, which is what I'd been using for 30 years.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/CVA-reg-Barrel-Blaster-Cleaning-Accessories/1383672.uts
I'm going to have to try this stuff.
Post by: PyroBlack on December 08, 2015, 06:28:27 AM
Post by: KFhunter on March 16, 2020, 04:28:16 PM
I'm using windex with vinegar, and simple green soak for the breech plug
but I have come CVA barrel blaster on order