Post by: bowhunterforever on January 17, 2009, 09:06:34 PM
Post by: Huntbear on January 17, 2009, 09:12:11 PM
Post by: jackelope on January 17, 2009, 09:13:12 PM
trigger work is one of the biggest accuracy improvers IMO.
replacing or reworking the existing trigger.
bedding the action to the stock.
floating the barrel.
Post by: docsven on January 17, 2009, 09:13:54 PM
Post by: Bofire on January 17, 2009, 09:14:59 PM
Carl
Post by: Gobble on January 17, 2009, 09:18:14 PM
Post by: docsven on January 17, 2009, 11:34:23 PM
Post by: bowhunterforever on January 18, 2009, 12:00:19 AM
Post by: atomicjoe23 on January 18, 2009, 10:50:16 AM
an helpful hint when you are sanding the barrel channel to relieve it is to get a woooden dowel rod of the correct diameter and wrap the sand paper around it and use that to sand the barrel channel. . .that way you keep a nice round profile to your barrel channel. . .
. . .I just bought a Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special in .22-250 and the barrel is not free floated. . .but the target it came with has a sub-MOA group. . .I'm gonna shoot it for a while before I decide whether or not to inlet my stocks barrel channel. . .
Post by: FrankDown on January 18, 2009, 10:53:20 AM
Post by: Gobble on January 18, 2009, 11:06:12 AM
I have never heard anything bad about Timney triggers. . .
an helpful hint when you are sanding the barrel channel to relieve it is to get a woooden dowel rod of the correct diameter and wrap the sand paper around it and use that to sand the barrel channel. . .that way you keep a nice round profile to your barrel channel. . .
:yeah:
I forgot to mention that. Anything round will work, I used a felt pen (large highlighter) wrapped in sandpaper if I remember right. I did this to my Rem 700 BDL 20 years ago (actually the day i bought it) and I can cover a 3 shot group at 150 yrds with a quarter. Everything you can do to make your gun consistant is great. I've always had great coinfidence in my weapon except for a opening weekend hunt 3 years ago. We were hunting near Alta and I missed 5 bucks opening weekend (1 180" 5 x 5 , 2 150-160" 4 points and 2 - long tined 3 points) . I'm not used to missing, in fact I had never missed a animal in 17 yrs up to that point with that gun. Turned out the 15 yr old old loctite that I had used on my Leupold came loose from the magnum rounds I had been shooting the previous couple of years. I re-loctited the scope once I got home and nailed a buck the next weekend. I just about wrapped the thing around a tree after missing that 180" in buck though. :'(
Post by: jeepasaurusrex on January 18, 2009, 07:15:25 PM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.static.flickr.com%2F3020%2F2747925441_e4e2a87256_b.jpg&hash=f8b38973d3064ee84b341adde794180bc34185ab)
Howa 1500.
Post by: atomicjoe23 on January 18, 2009, 09:48:40 PM
How close were the holes in your papr that came with your Vanguard?
0.75" 3 round group at 100 yds. . .two rounds were in one hole and then the third put it out to the 0.75". . .without the third round it was less than 0.5". . .
Post by: jeepasaurusrex on January 19, 2009, 06:24:01 AM
Post by: Big10gauge on January 19, 2009, 08:49:07 PM
Composite stocks with fore end pressure =possible changes in impact everytime you remove the action if you don't tighten the screws to the same torque each time
Free floating can lessen both these problems, you should still torque your action screws the same each time you remove your action especially if your action is not bedded
Just my :twocents:
Post by: ivarhusa on January 30, 2009, 09:38:13 AM
It would be easy enough to shave that down to get clearance, but are there any good reasons why they design it that way, with contact at the tip? The plastic stock twists (moves) with respect to the barrel with very modest forces. It is flexible. It isn't wood
I read Big10gauge's advice about torquing the attachment bolts properly. Can do.
Is free floating ill-advised for such stocks? I am wanting to free float. Any good reasons not to? The factory sent me a target with a 0.8" 100yd group from my coyote rifle. Of course, I aspire to better.
Thoughts?
Post by: atomicjoe23 on January 30, 2009, 10:41:42 AM
I got to checking my Savage Model 10, and noticed that the stock does make contact with the barrel at the very tip. This is a plastic stock, and it appears (not having pulled the action off yet) that they cast in considerable relief under the barrel, except they left perhaps deliberate contact at the front end, only the last 1/4" or so. I am concerned that when I remove plastic, the stock may twist and contact the barrel in other locations along its side.
Ivar. . .my new Weatherby Vanguard Varmint Special's stock is the exact same way. . .I thought about free-floating my stock/barrel too, but that was before I shot it. . .now I don't want to mess with it because of how well it shoots!!!
Is free floating ill-advised for such stocks? I am wanting to free float. Any good reasons not to? The factory sent me a target with a 0.8" 100yd group from my coyote rifle. Of course, I aspire to better.
Thoughts?
What do your groups look like. . .that would be the main thing that I would think about first. . .
. . .My grouping was way better than the factory grouping and I was using "cheap" ammo. . .
. . .for those that asked earlier about what my target grouping was and who didn't see my post on what I ended up with at the range once I got a scope. . .here are the results. . .
. . .the factory target was a .75" 3-shot group @ 100 yards. . .my 3-shot 100 yard group was .392" CTC. . .and my 5-shot 200 yard group was 1.9375" CTC. . .not bad for shoot the cheapest ammo in the store. . .it absolutely hated the more expensive stuff that I had with me so the only person that will probably shoot that would be my GF at paper. . .although that might frustrate her???
I've decided there is no need to free-float my barrel because I feel that my gun has the potential to shoot better than I can at the moment and I don't want to break what isn't broken. . .
. . .just my :twocents: