Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: h20hunter on November 23, 2015, 01:07:27 PM
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So, looking for my first saw. I'm considering this saw:
https://millersequipment.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms250/?_ga=1.203557776.1425262926.1443471750
I want a long term use, reliable, home/yard/firewood application.
What do you think? Anyone get a new Stihl recently?
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Saw is kinda small but should get you by. Can't go wrong with a husky 455 rancher
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So, looking for my first saw. I'm considering this saw:
https://millersequipment.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms250/?_ga=1.203557776.1425262926.1443471750
I want a long term use, reliable, home/yard/firewood application.
What do you think? Anyone get a new Stihl recently?
Saws are kinda like boats IMO, buy 2 sizes bigger than you think you need. You will use it. :twocents:
I am a Husky fan but Stihl is also a fine product.
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If thats your price range I would buy something like this.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/grd/5328817624.html
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To qualify as truly being a bonafide firewood saw it should have a power head with 3.0 ci. in. or larger engine size.
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https://millersequipment.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms251/?_ga=1.172230563.1425262926.1443471750#features_tab
Also like the use of this one. Good standard features.
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I have a MS361, and wouldn't have anything smaller than that for wood cutting. :tup:
There MS391 in the ranch saw catagory with a 24" bar would be good.
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This one is multi purposed. :tup:
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In all reality it depends on how much you are going to use it. Are you cutting firewood for camping or are you cutting 3+ cords a year for heat?
I have a 361 and absolutely love it but when I bought it I was cutting and selling firewood and using firewood to heat the house so I was cutting quite a bit. I don't have wood heat now and just use it for the occasional project or for cutting wood for the fire pit. I am actually thinking of buying another smaller saw for general use because the wife doesn't like using the 361 and it is overkill for 95% of what I use it for now.
If you are only going to use it a few times a year then there is really no need to spend $500-700 on a saw. The smaller saw will suit you fine even if it takes a few extra seconds to saw through a log. My two cents.
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So, looking for my first saw. I'm considering this saw:
https://millersequipment.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms250/?_ga=1.203557776.1425262926.1443471750
I want a long term use, reliable, home/yard/firewood application.
What do you think? Anyone get a new Stihl recently?
Saws are kinda like boats IMO, buy 2 sizes bigger than you think you need. You will use it. :twocents:
I am a Husky fan but Stihl is also a fine product.
:yeah:
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In all reality it depends on how much you are going to use it. Are you cutting firewood for camping or are you cutting 3+ cords a year for heat?
I have a 361 and absolutely love it but when I bought it I was cutting and selling firewood and using firewood to heat the house so I was cutting quite a bit. I don't have wood heat now and just use it for the occasional project or for cutting wood for the fire pit. I am actually thinking of buying another smaller saw for general use because the wife doesn't like using the 361 and it is overkill for 95% of what I use it for now.
If you are only going to use it a few times a year then there is really no need to spend $500-700 on a saw. The smaller saw will suit you fine even if it takes a few extra seconds to saw through a log. My two cents.
:yeah:
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Volume of wood you will be cutting, speed at which you wish to go, and size of the most common wood you will be cutting will determine what size saw you will need. the smallest saw a guy cutting enough wood to heat his home with could get away with would be the MS 362
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Volume of wood you will be cutting, speed at which you wish to go, and size of the most common wood you will be cutting will determine what size saw you will need. the smallest saw a guy cutting enough wood to heat his home with could get away with would be the MS 362
I cut all my own wood with a MS 290, not to mention a couple extra cords each year and love my saw. Maybe 15% of the time a bigger saw would be more efficient, but I wouldn't say necessary. When I got my saw Stihl recommended it for 10 cords or less a year. But this is America, so go big or go home.
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Since I now burn heat only to supplement the primary heat pump I won't be cutting much. Got one project tree in mind. Other than that, much less use than most. Going to go fondle the "wood boss" I linked above after work today.
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That saw has a small jug, not much to fondle. :chuckle:
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Okay....just noticed this one....
More to fondle...bit more beef and looks midrange in price point
https://millersequipment.stihldealer.net/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms271/
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That's the one I had before my current one. It's a good saw, bar was too short for me and I wanted more hp. Then a thief liked it more than me, so I got the MS361.
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What bar did you have.....length wise.
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I just went through this. I needed to buy a new saw, wanted a good one, but could not justify dropping $500 on a 20" top of the line Stihl or Husqvarna. I hit all the stores in Moses Lake, and made my purchase at Sears, of all places. Sears was closing out the Husqvarna line. Got a baby Husqvarna saw, model 435, 16" bar, 40cc motor, for $239. I had 3 big blue spruce and a cherry come down in the wind storm. Kinda glad I got the smaller saw, as cutting limbs over your head gets tiring! This thing runs great, starts easy, and cuts like a hot knife through butter. Towards the trunk of the trees I made two cuts, as I did not have enough bar to get through, but was not an issue. I am very happy with the Husqvarna. I need to get my stove into our new house, and when I do, I will probably burn a cord or 2 a year. The little saw will do fine.
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Thanks for the feedback....we will see....should be fondling the hardware in about 20 minutes.
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What bar did you have.....length wise.
18-20" can't remember. My MS361 is 24", and I have big trees so it's the smallest I could go.
My neighbor usually falls my trees with a larger saw, unless they are no brainers. :chuckle:
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I'll need to drop the base...maybe 20 feet of trunk. Other than that the current job is already down and limbed. Time to go look!
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I'll need to drop the base...maybe 20 feet of trunk. Other than that the current job is already down and limbed. Time to go look!
Have fun!! Hope you find a good deal!
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I have an MS 250, had bigger saws all my life. This is a great saw, NOT a hard working wood cutters saw tho. for my yard use, limbs, minor fire wood/ camping saw I LOVE it. small light runs great. I am well pleased.
Carl
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http://hunting-washington.com/smf/Smileys/default/yeahthat.gif I have the MS250 as well. It meets all of my needs around the yard and around deer camp. :yeah: :yeah:
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Own both Stihl and Husky. My stihl is a251 wood boss. Great saw. Know a volunteer group that runs about 6 wood boss's 60+ hours a year on habitat projects. No problems. For work I have a Farm boss and my back up is a wood boss. Love the Farm boss. I may not be a big sexy manly machine but it will cut when others won't. Once it got placed in a sled behind a snow mobile. Several mile later it was dug out of the resulting sled of snow and fired right up to clear a trail. First saw i ever used was a Farm Boss. Used it for clearing fire trail about 1980. Dropped one off a cliff. All that happened was a chipped tooth.
You will be happy with a 251 wood boss. Used mine to clear a tree that fell across our road because I was to lazy to put a new chain on my Husky. No problems cutting through a 24 DBH spruce and limbing.
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I cut all my own wood with a MS 290, not to mention a couple extra cords each year and love my saw. Maybe 15% of the time a bigger saw would be more efficient, but I wouldn't say necessary. When I got my saw Stihl recommended it for 10 cords or less a year. But this is America, so go big or go home.
Go big or go home, that's painfully funny. I have the MS310 (replaced by the 311 I believe). Super long bar, too. Honestly, it is getting to the point I can barely lift the thing after a couple of hours of use. I should probably sell it, and get a Farm Boss.
Bigger is not necessarily better!
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Ms 271 farm boss with a 20 inch bar. Get it before the end of the month and you'll get a free carrying case and a free chain.
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I'm the proud owner of the farm boss with a 20 inch bar. The had one there that was bought and returned on Saturday. A bigger saw was needed. They topped of the bar oil and fuel, knocked off 10 %, sharpened the chain better than new and called it good. I picked up a gallon of oil and a gallon of premix. Came with a case and a 2nd chain. Total run time with original owner estimated at 30 min...maybe a 1/4 tank of fuel. Out the door was $508. Also picked a up a sharpening kit to learn with. I know it is an aquire skill but I got time. This weekend it's time to put it to work.
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Good choice. You'll like it. It's well worth a few extra bucks to get a farm and ranch saw over a homeowner saw. I cut 4+ cords a year with a 290. Keep the chain sharp and the air filter clean, and it will do what you need.
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Nice! Sounds like a good deal!! :tup:
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Cograts! Great saw they are!
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Thanks....after handling some of the other models I'm sure they would have been good saws and gotten 99% of all my needs done. However, I did like the feel of the slightly bigger model. I'm not a small guy.....just a touch over 6 feet and hovering around the 225 mark....so handling the longer bar and pound or so weight difference will be just fine. I will admit, for a mans first saw it is an intimidating piece of equipment. You can bet I'll be taking it slow and easy this weekend when I get it broken in properly. Thumbs up for Miller Rent All in Lynnwood. We did a walk through of the saw from starting and stopping cold/warm, changing out the chain, tweeking the tension, and of course basic operation overall. Very pleased.
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Ear, Eye and Hand protection are a must, chaps maybe? I don't have a pair but keep thinking i should get some even though i have not had an incident yet in 35+yrs.
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Saws are like golf clubs, you could use just one, but its more fun with a bag full (shop full in this case) for every situation! I am sure this wont be your last saw :chuckle:
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Agreed, once you pinch your bar and your saw is stuck in a big old Maple, you sort of get cured of only having one saw.
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Eye, ear, hand: Check
Good boots: Check
Chap: On the Christmas list
Last bit of equipment I will pick up is a rubber wedge and mallet to help with binds.
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Eye, ear, hand: Check
Good boots: Check
Chap: On the Christmas list
Last bit of equipment I will pick up is a rubber wedge and mallet to help with binds.
You mean splitting maul? :dunno:
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Not really....It was suggested that a rubber wedge can be used to just keep the cut apart where it may want to bind up....more to apply a light pressure compared to a maul and wedge.
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Eye, ear, hand: Check
Good boots: Check
Chap: On the Christmas list
Last bit of equipment I will pick up is a rubber wedge and mallet to help with binds.
"Last bit of equipment" Now thats funny :chuckle:
Add a hookaroon, Cant dog, electric bench mounted sharpener, sthil girly calender for the shop.
Did ya get your free hat also???
The maul would be for splitting the rounds, duh.......
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Uh...yeah....I got a free hat! Yes....I will wear it also.....I'll be that guy with a shiny new box, brand new (virtually) saw, smiling like an idiot wearing his perfectly clean stihl hat cutting a 3 inch branch with a 20 inch bar and in my head I'm falling a giant oak.
I may even take a saw selfie.
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Uh...yeah....I got a free hat! Yes....I will wear it also.....I'll be that guy with a shiny new box, brand new (virtually) saw, smiling like an idiot wearing his perfectly clean stihl hat cutting a 3 inch branch with a 20 inch bar and in my head I'm falling a giant oak.
I may even take a saw selfie.
Saw selfie is mandatory. :twocents:
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Eye, ear, hand: Check
Good boots: Check
Chap: On the Christmas list
Last bit of equipment I will pick up is a rubber wedge and mallet to help with binds.
"Last bit of equipment" Now thats funny :chuckle:
Add a hookaroon, Cant dog, electric bench mounted sharpener, sthil girly calender for the shop.
Did ya get your free hat also???
The maul would be for splitting the rounds, duh.......
Nope, use it to put the wedge in, a mallet wouldn't budge my trees. :chuckle:
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Uh...yeah....I got a free hat! Yes....I will wear it also.....I'll be that guy with a shiny new box, brand new (virtually) saw, smiling like an idiot wearing his perfectly clean stihl hat cutting a 3 inch branch with a 20 inch bar and in my head I'm falling a giant oak.
I may even take a saw selfie.
Saw selfie is mandatory. :twocents:
He will cut his arm off! :yike:
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One hand to hold the saw, one hand to hold the phone (no selfie stick), and one kid to hold the beer.
What could go wrong?
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One hand to hold the saw, one hand to hold the phone (no selfie stick), and one kid to hold the beer.
What could go wrong?
Oh my booze and saws don't mix! :yike:
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For sure. All joking aside I'm very impressed with this saw and I have not even run it through wood yet. As a kid growing up my dad always ran the saw and we hauled rounds, split and stacked. I watched my dad fall trees over the years and have great respect for the power that is behind the trigger.
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Good call on going bigger. I have the ms250. It's a great saw, but wish I had gone bigger.
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I was going to recommend a wedge or two. Very handy for keeping the bar from getting pinched while bucking.
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If ya do get the bar pinched and your in a bind :chuckle: (pun intended) give me a quick call and ill come over and cut you out.....but you better be wearing the hat and for sure we will get a selfie...
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Bring your bee suit....I'll wear my team Jacob tee which I rock thank you, and we will get it done.
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Bring your bee suit....I'll wear my team Jacob tee which I rock thank you, and we will get it done.
$500 dollar saw, pinched bar, team jacob shirt 3sizes too small, stihl hat on, bald face hornet master in his homemade suit.....PRICELESS
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Third or fourth :tup: on the ms250. It gets a little heavy when limbing, but it's a nice saw for what you spec.
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I have 3 saws all stihls. a tc194, ms 251 and an older 361. the top handle 194 is used the most cuz we have lots of orchards and cuz im old. mike w
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Cutting good.
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Nice maul, little tip always face the small end of wood round facing the ground, it makes splitting large rounds much easier. :tup:
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Nice maul, little tip always face the small end of wood round facing the ground, it makes splitting large rounds much easier. :tup:
That's always been backwards to me.
Those Fiskars are nice. A lot of people like them. Ive always preferred a good wood handled old style single head Collins axe. Think they were a 4 pound head. Best wood splitter Ive found. To me those plastic, fiberglass handles flex to much and you lose force with them. Tried a few. Including Fiskars. Always went back to my Collins axe.
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Nice maul, little tip always face the small end of wood round facing the ground, it makes splitting large rounds much easier. :tup:
That's always been backwards to me.
Those Fiskars are nice. A lot of people like them. Ive always preferred a good wood handled old style single head Collins axe. Think they were a 4 pound head. Best wood splitter Ive found. To me those plastic, fiberglass handles flex to much and you lose force with them. Tried a few. Including Fiskars. Always went back to my Collins axe.
It's physics, your greatest force hits the larger end of round, then the smaller end when split carries the weight from above outward from the splitting action. :tup:
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I've got a 250 but find it undersize for some of the stuff I cut. I do trail clearing and get into bigger logs than firewood. I mainly got mine for firewood but wished I'd got something bigger.
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I like the Fiskars. Swings well for me and splits nicely. It's pretty straight wood so not much problem breaking it up. Getting used to the saw. Glad I got the size I did. I'll work on that saw selfie next go around.
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I like the Fiskars. Swings well for me and splits nicely. It's pretty straight wood so not much problem breaking it up. Getting used to the saw. Glad I got the size I did. I'll work on that saw selfie next go around.
Looks and sounds like you have a set up that works well for you. That's all that matters. :tup:
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Nice maul, little tip always face the small end of wood round facing the ground, it makes splitting large rounds much easier. :tup:
That's always been backwards to me.
Those Fiskars are nice. A lot of people like them. Ive always preferred a good wood handled old style single head Collins axe. Think they were a 4 pound head. Best wood splitter Ive found. To me those plastic, fiberglass handles flex to much and you lose force with them. Tried a few. Including Fiskars. Always went back to my Collins axe.
It's physics, your greatest force hits the larger end of round, then the smaller end when split carries the weight from above outward from the splitting action. :tup:
I look at it a little differently. With the small end up. Your starting out by splitting less surface area. So easier to start the split and let it work its way through the round. On any round over about a foot in diameter I always try to start my split about an inch or 2 from the outside edge. That way the splitting action goes down and across at the same time.
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Congrats on the 290. It's a little late but I've cut over 4 cords a year for the last 15 years with a 250.
The Fiskars axe is a great tool. It's hardened and will chip badly if you drive it through with a sledge. Great limber.
For serious wood cutting, you'll want/need a pee vee.
http://www.zoro.com/dixie-peavy-2-12-in-dia-hickory-handle-5-ft-l-00260/i/G1932366/?gclid=CL63rdWusckCFZRcfgodrTsBIA&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Fool.....for sure!
Goldeneye on here has one from about a million years ago...old and sturdy. I'm finding that pulling a round out 'a the ground when a limb is driven straight down is a pain in the.....back. I'll be looking for one here very soon. Thanks for the link.
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I want this for splitting. Had a head come off the handle once in mid swing, was an intense second trying to figure out where it was gonna land.
https://www.lehmans.com/p-352-heavy-duty-splitting-maul.aspx?show=all
I have split some wood with one of these, seem to work good...On my wish list.
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Making headway. I paced off what's still on the ground....28 feet. So far so good.
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Nice wood!
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h20...Just a suggestion. Buy a skip tooth chain (Stihl - RSF) it will cut quicker than the safety chain that is on it, BUT, It also will kickback more, so ya gotta pay attention.
I use multiple saws and have skip tooths on all of them. I prefer my 211 over my 310 for firewood cutting. Keep the chain sharp. :twocents:
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h20...Just a suggestion. Buy a skip tooth chain (Stihl - RSF) it will cut quicker than the safety chain that is on it, BUT, It also will kickback more, so ya gotta pay attention.
I use multiple saws and have skip tooths on all of them. I prefer my 211 over my 310 for firewood cutting. Keep the chain sharp. :twocents:
He will just cut his arm off! :chuckle:
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:chuckle:
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Dont buy a fullskip till you learn to sharpen, dressup correctly, they actually dull quicker, but what do i know..
I told you to get a cant dog already.....
and splitting buy hand is a young mans game btw....spit 4-6 cords of rounds in one setting and you will love renting a log splitter... :twocents:
But hey i have a cord of rounds on the trailer you can come and practice on... :chuckle:
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Yes, knowing how to sharpen is a must... with any chain. Its not hard to do.
Skip will dull a little quicker, but only half the amount of teeth to sharpen. Keep it out of the dirt.
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Oh and h20, what ever you do, don't google chainsaw accidents/kick back injuries and watch then with the little lady...don't do it..... :yike:
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I like full comp chisel chains for cutting firewood and a 28" bar, less bending over when cutting limbs, always use the tip of the bar for bumping limbs, never use the dogs and when you dog in when your cutting rounds watch the tip when you roll over that way you don't go trenching thoughts the dirt and rocks, and purchase a peevee, it will help keep the log off the dirt.. :twocents:
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When I was doing tree work we always had a couple 260s on the crew. That was the go to saw for bucking, clearing trails, falling small stuff etc. Pound for pound its hard to beat that saw with a 20 inch bar. That's what I have at home as well picked up a used 026 off Craigslist.
That's my saw of choice but any of the above mentioned will do fine, sharp chain is key
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CHAPS most chainsaw accidents are homeowners fyi
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A pair of chaps is on my short list.
I'm down to the lower 3rd of the tree. Cutting about 23 inch rounds currently. I'm up to 4 chains and have run them all a bit dull. I'll be dropping them off at the shop today to have them professionally sharpened. I know with 4 fresh chains I can finish the job. I'll learn to use the sharpening kit in time.
I'll stick with the regular for now, no skip tooth.
Still very happy with the saw and learning quite a bit as I go. Proud to say I've not dug the bar into the dirt or hit any rocks. I've got some fresh pallets ready to be stacked on. Currently I've cut and split/stacked two pallets worth six feet high.
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You've dulled up 4 chains on that one tree and not hit anything? Hummm
keeping them adjusted as needed? and not forcing the cut?
Learn to use that file... :twocents:
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Nope...haven't hit anything.
I'm learning to keep that chain tension dialed in and putting the right amount of pressure...not to much, not to little.
The file.....will do...when are you free for a lesson?
Once that chain gets a little dull I back off. I look at it just like a knife....razor sharp is safer than dull. I've got time and my shop charges $7 per chain. Worth it for now.
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Nope...haven't hit anything.
I'm learning to keep that chain tension dialed in and putting the right amount of pressure...not to much, not to little.
The file.....will do...when are you free for a lesson?
Once that chain gets a little dull I back off. I look at it just like a knife....razor sharp is safer than dull. I've got time and my shop charges $7 per chain. Worth it for now.
Which shop is that? I just change the chain when it gets dull, so I have a box of them that need sharpening.
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The Harbor Freight electric chain sharpener is great.
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Nope...haven't hit anything.
I'm learning to keep that chain tension dialed in and putting the right amount of pressure...not to much, not to little.
The file.....will do...when are you free for a lesson?
Once that chain gets a little dull I back off. I look at it just like a knife....razor sharp is safer than dull. I've got time and my shop charges $7 per chain. Worth it for now.
Which shop is that? I just change the chain when it gets dull, so I have a box of them that need sharpening.
Miller Rent All in Lynnwood. They charge 10$ per chain if you bring it in on the saw, $7 per if loose.
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Ed....
This one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221.html
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I have the best results using a file guide like this one. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307159_200307159?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Logging%20%3E%20Chainsaw%20Sharpeners%20%2B%20Grinders&utm_campaign=Oregon&utm_content=19722&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=19722&gclid=CO2Y_4XeuMkCFUOBfgodw9EOfw
Make sure both R and L teeth are the same length. There's another guide to take raker height down as well, cheap sheetmetal guide and a flat file. There are several versions, here's one..http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200636254_200636254?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Logging%20%3E%20Chainsaw%20Sharpeners%20%2B%20Grinders&utm_campaign=Oregon&utm_content=19716&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=19716&gclid=CMfk6NLeuMkCFUOBfgodw9EOfw
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Cutting good.
Okay, it seriously looks like you stole my saw, ax, and gloves. Good choices. :tup: I was going to recommend the Farm Boss.
Wish you could send your chains to the guy who sharpens mine, its his hobby and all he does is read/study about how chains cut. I gave him two and they cut better than new. Accidently hit the bar on my leg when the saw wasn't running and it cut straight through my jeans, they are sharp.
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And that is exactly why I now have a pair of chaps on order. $75 bucks on Amazon.........
http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-587160704-Technical-Apron-38-Inch/dp/B00STHFARY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448916996&sr=8-1&keywords=chainsaw+chaps
for that one time where things go poorly.
When I'm out back working I also keep a two way on my hip and one inside with the wife.
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http://www.ruralking.com/oregon-sure-sharp-manual-sharpener-guide-23820.html?fee=2&fep=20601&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CJPn6uSZuckCFUiBfgodziIAgw
Makes sharpening a breeze. Set it to the correct angle for your chain and give each cutter a few swipes.
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Ed....
This one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221.html
Yes. The only issue I have had is that if you want to keep the depth of the grind the same in both directions, you might have to adjust it one way or the other. I figure this thing will save me some $$ and time. I'm sure there are more expensive ones that work better, but then again, they are more expensive..... ;)
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And that is exactly why I now have a pair of chaps on order. $75 bucks on Amazon.........
http://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-587160704-Technical-Apron-38-Inch/dp/B00STHFARY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448916996&sr=8-1&keywords=chainsaw+chaps
for that one time where things go poorly.
When I'm out back working I also keep a two way on my hip and one inside with the wife.
Those wont work, your saw is a stihl... :chuckle:
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Shhhh..............don't tell!
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Ed....
This one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221.html
Yes. The only issue I have had is that if you want to keep the depth of the grind the same in both directions, you might have to adjust it one way or the other. I figure this thing will save me some $$ and time. I'm sure there are more expensive ones that work better, but then again, they are more expensive..... ;)
Will likely have to adjust for that. If the teeth are longer in one direction, one side will do most of the cutting and the saw will not cut straight.
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Just go buy a new chain. They are cheap and super sharp.
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Ed....
This one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221.html
Yes. The only issue I have had is that if you want to keep the depth of the grind the same in both directions, you might have to adjust it one way or the other. I figure this thing will save me some $$ and time. I'm sure there are more expensive ones that work better, but then again, they are more expensive..... ;)
Will likely have to adjust for that. If the teeth are longer in one direction, one side will do most of the cutting and the saw will not cut straight.
It does cut a curve. It is not hard to figure out how many turns to adjust the depth between sides. It would be easier if a person had a couple chains to do at the same time, that way there would be less adjusting for more cutting time. I just have one chain.
Just go buy a new chain. They are cheap and super sharp.
They're not that cheap..... :dunno:
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Just go buy a new chain. They are cheap and super sharp.
It really is a disposable society.
Sharpening a chain is not difficult and you can get multiple (SHARP) uses out of one. I have something over a dozen chains for my 025. I sharpen them all at once. Run 'em until they aren't and throw another one on...repeat...repeat...
Calipers help make sure both sides are the same. Once you have a chain sharpener, you won't run a chain until it is completely dull. That really is a waste of time and energy!
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Ed....
This one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221.html
Yes. The only issue I have had is that if you want to keep the depth of the grind the same in both directions, you might have to adjust it one way or the other. I figure this thing will save me some $$ and time. I'm sure there are more expensive ones that work better, but then again, they are more expensive..... ;)
Will likely have to adjust for that. If the teeth are longer in one direction, one side will do most of the cutting and the saw will not cut straight.
It does cut a curve. It is not hard to figure out how many turns to adjust the depth between sides. It would be easier if a person had a couple chains to do at the same time, that way there would be less adjusting for more cutting time. I just have one chain.
Just go buy a new chain. They are cheap and super sharp.
They're not that cheap..... :dunno:
I can get a new chain delivered to my door for $18 -
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Do you throw them out after knocking the edge off?
Seems to be a trend. Maybe we should have a thread for rehoming unwanted, unloved abandoned chains. I bet there's a good home waiting out there for "em.
I will gladly take in any unwanted 025 chains.
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I keep the dull ones, when I get enough dull ones collected I’ll take them somewhere to be sharpened. I’m guessing that I run through a chain and a half per year. At that rate it doesn’t justify buying sharpening tools, learning to use them, having to store them, maintain them, find them when I need them, etc.
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http://www.amazon.com/5605-007-1028-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B002YSZ2WW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448991236&sr=8-1&keywords=stihl+chainsaw+file+kit
$18....for a sharpening kit, pretty simple and easy
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are people kidding or for real when they use a chain once and toss it. no offense but they are dumb or rich. I taught myself to sharpen a chain and live and learn. it aint tough. look on u-tube or get an old sawyer. good luck, mike w
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I can get a new chain delivered to my door for $18 -
I can sharpen a chain in 5 minutes. If the wood is clean I cut a half cord before sharpening. A little sooner in dirty wood.
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Agreed, once you pinch your bar and your saw is stuck in a big old Maple, you sort of get cured of only having one saw.
Come on guys no need for two saws just two bars and chains.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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For me only having one saw on a job is setting myself up for single point failure. Pinched saw, broken pull rope, oiler quits, etc. whatever else can fail, I love the idea of redundancy when it comes to actual wood cutting. I hate stopping & taking the time operating a scrench when I should be busy cutting wood. There's quality time and a beer in the garage for that type of saw maintenance later.
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Who's gett'n some this morning?
H20!
All major cutting done!
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Who's gett'n some this morning?
H20!
All major cutting done!
WOOD?
momma is :chuckle:
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Cool pic! We all knew you had Lumber Jack in your blood! :tup:
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Hope it's in my blood because if it's in my sweat I'm about tapped out! Split just over half the rounds this am, taking a break then back to it.
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Well, the last two rounds from the base are more than half rot....leaving them be. Not sure how much I split but I'm tired.
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Good job, looks like you got 1/2 a seasons worth there, now get it stacked correctly and covered so it dries!!!
You know that wood will of heated you 4x by the time you burn it :chuckle:
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Indeed....lotta work but its good knowing I'm on the home stretch. I'm going to cut up all the limbs for outdoor burning and have a nice pile of scraps and some of the more rotten wood for burning in the fire pit as well. Its coming along for sure.
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The older your son gets the easier the firewood chore gets! In a few years you'll be doing it one handed in a lawn chair :tup:
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Whole lotta sticks.
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That's a nice stack of wood you have. :tup:
How many cords?
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Not sure...stacks are 6 feet tall.....
Any guess?
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How long and wide?
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Not sure....4 standard pallets at the base....how long and wide is a pallet?
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That's a nice stack of wood you have. :tup:
How many cords?
A chord is 4'x4'x8'. A standard pallet like you have them stacked on is 40"x48". If you stacked on 2 pallets wide x 2 pallets long it's about 3 chord.
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Nice. I got a pretty good pile for outdoor burning, some slash wood to cut, then the limbs for outdoor also. Feel goid having the bulk of it done and stacked.
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Looks like 2 pallets wide by 4 long, that would be 4.95 cords.
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Looks like 2 pallets wide by 4 long, that would be 4.95 cords.
Boss, remember a chord of wood is 128 cubic feet. He has 4 pallets, so 8x8 at the base and 6 feet tall. To calculate a cord of wood simple multiply Width x Height x Length and divide that by 128. That will tell you how many cords you have. So he has 8x8x6=384 cubic feet 384/128=3 chords
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Looks like 2 pallets wide by 4 long, that would be 4.95 cords.
Boss, remember a chord of wood is 128 cubic feet. He has 4 pallets, so 8x8 at the base and 6 feet tall. To calculate a cord of wood simple multiply Width x Height x Length and divide that by 128. That will tell you how many cords you have. So he has 8x8x6=384 cubic feet 384/128=3 chords
:yeah: