Post by: Turner89 on November 27, 2015, 07:15:03 PM
Post by: Trapper John on November 27, 2015, 08:18:45 PM
Just make sure that you put the trap it in an area (say between two trees and or brush) where it can't go around your trap so it is force to go into your trap. Put a few drops of fish oil in the area and put a few drops inside and out the other side of your trap. The fish oil will attract him into the area and trap. Good Luck, let us know if you catch it
JC :hello:
Post by: Turner89 on November 27, 2015, 10:05:07 PM
Post by: big wood on November 28, 2015, 09:09:21 PM
Post by: Humptulips on November 28, 2015, 09:27:50 PM
Post by: Turner89 on November 29, 2015, 12:24:15 PM
I have caught otter like that as a blind set. Only problem as a land set an otter will eat the trap unless it is a very heavily built one. My old with 1x2 wire may or may not hold an otter like that but the trap will have to be rebuilt for sure.I'm worried about them destroying the trap. Most of my swim throughs are the ones I bought from you. I do have one of your new fold up traps though. That should hold up I would think?
Post by: Turner89 on November 29, 2015, 12:28:38 PM
I would put a swim through on each side of the crossover trail, that way you can catch 2 and have a 72 hr trap check!you mean put them in the water? I would prefer to do a water set, but this particular spot is difficult to do that.
Post by: big wood on November 29, 2015, 04:05:55 PM
Post by: kirkdekalb on December 01, 2015, 05:10:40 PM
As was mentioned earlier, if you have a good central run, use two traps. You catch one alive, others will come if they are near.
Post by: Turner89 on December 01, 2015, 08:34:14 PM
I catch as many on land in cages as in water. The trap needs to be checked the next day when trap is not submerged. Make your doors bar doors. They will work the doors and not your cage.kirk, in the other thread yo mentioned how the otter doesn't like to touch his wiskers if possible. With the conibear triggers how would you bend the wires? Or should I not worry about that much?
As was mentioned earlier, if you have a good central run, use two traps. You catch one alive, others will come if they are near.
Post by: Humptulips on December 01, 2015, 09:47:20 PM
Post by: kirkdekalb on December 02, 2015, 03:15:21 AM
Back many years ago I watched Newt Sterling do a demo on snaring otters. He made his loop and set. The last thing he did was bend a piece of grass and hang it on the snare. That is just enough of a barrier to keep the otter from going under and makes him want to jump through the trap. You set the snare and don,t do that, your missing otter.
Post by: kirkdekalb on December 02, 2015, 03:24:37 AM
Quote
I would not worry about that. Never had a problem getting them to spring the trap.
That is because of the type of trigger Bruce uses and how it is positioned. Even the relationship the trigger design has to width of the trap, has a great effect when using a wire trigger.
Post by: kirkdekalb on December 02, 2015, 03:37:31 AM