Post by: Mossy on December 21, 2015, 01:07:39 AM
Post by: follow maggie on December 21, 2015, 06:52:00 AM
Post by: fishngamereaper on December 21, 2015, 07:05:48 AM
Post by: CAMPMEAT on December 21, 2015, 07:19:08 AM
Post by: timberfaller on December 21, 2015, 07:24:44 AM
Son runs the Duratrac's he likes them, lasted pretty good on a 3/4 ton.
:tup: for Discount tires!
Post by: Widgeondeke on December 21, 2015, 07:26:48 AM
I run BF Goodrich all terrains on my pickup. Good tread life, good traction, great in the snow. Every Good Year set I've ever had has literally come apart- chunks of tread coming off, sidewalls splitting. Wouldn't put them on a wagon. I dont have any expereince with the others youve listed
have you seen the new ones? I just saw them last week :drool:
Much more aggressive side wall tread for the deeper snow & mud traction
Post by: Magnum_Willys on December 21, 2015, 08:03:30 AM
Post by: rudysts on December 21, 2015, 08:05:17 AM
Post by: Rick on December 21, 2015, 08:10:56 AM
Post by: whacker1 on December 21, 2015, 08:15:51 AM
18 or 20
Post by: Mossy on December 21, 2015, 08:20:41 AM
what size rims?
18 or 20
18
Post by: Mossy on December 21, 2015, 08:27:54 AM
I run HANKOOK DYNA PRO ATM 285x70x17 10 ply bought online from DISCOUNT TIRE online for $825 to my door. Then paid a shop to install them for another $100.
I saw these while getting an alignment. The tire shop was pretty busy so I never got a chance to ask about them. How do they do in the snow/ice?
Post by: whacker1 on December 21, 2015, 08:52:02 AM
So, stock size on the 18 inch rim should be 275/65/18
32 inches tall by 10.75 wide.
I run 275/70/18 Fierce Attitude MT's on my F150
33 inches tall, same width at 10.75 wide in round numbers.
I prefer to keep the narrower width for fuel economy, because you will likely lose fuel economy by the change in gear ratio from going taller. No point in losing more fuel economy with more rolling resistance and resistance with wider, but option 2 would be to go to 285/65/18.
32.5 inches tall and 11.25 wide
It appears that you were exploring a mix all terrain and mud terrain on the lighter side of the mud terrains Cost will be a huge factor depending on which you prefer as the MT's are almost always more expensive.
I think in the All terrain the KO2's are difficult to beat for performance, longevity (if rotated regularly and alignment maintained) and cost. Although the cost went up when BFG went to the KO2 over the traditional KO
I am fond of the Pro Comp Extreme AT if you want something wider and a blend of mud terrain and all terrain. 295/65/18 - 33 inches tall x 11.6 wide - watch for the buy 3 get 1 free sale.
More expensive, but a cool looking foot print is the Cooper Zeon LTZ - 275/70/18. They are blend between all terrain, and mud terrain with a really square look.
I have the Cooper AT3 on my Explorer and have referred several friends to them. They are one of the best in the snow and wear really well. I have been super happy with them.
those are few of my thoughts. I have explored them all and ran 1/2 of the tires on various rigs and be happy to share my thoughts.
Post by: Mossy on December 21, 2015, 08:59:02 AM
Most of my friends will tell you that I am a self-appointed Tire Researching guru
So, stock size on the 18 inch rim should be 275/65/18
32 inches tall by 10.75 wide.
I run 275/70/18 Fierce Attitude MT's on my F150
33 inches tall, same width at 10.75 wide in round numbers.
I prefer to keep the narrower width for fuel economy, because you will likely lose fuel economy by the change in gear ratio from going taller. No point in losing more fuel economy with more rolling resistance and resistance with wider, but option 2 would be to go to 285/65/18.
32.5 inches tall and 11.25 wide
It appears that you were exploring a mix all terrain and mud terrain on the lighter side of the mud terrains Cost will be a huge factor depending on which you prefer as the MT's are almost always more expensive.
I think in the All terrain the KO2's are difficult to beat for performance, longevity (if rotated regularly and alignment maintained) and cost. Although the cost went up when BFG went to the KO2 over the traditional KO
I am fond of the Pro Comp Extreme AT if you want something wider and a blend of mud terrain and all terrain. 295/65/18 - 33 inches tall x 11.6 wide - watch for the buy 3 get 1 free sale.
More expensive, but a cool looking foot print is the Cooper Zeon LTZ - 275/70/18. They are blend between all terrain, and mud terrain with a really square look.
I have the Cooper AT3 on my Explorer and have referred several friends to them. They are one of the best in the snow and wear really well. I have been super happy with them.
those are few of my thoughts. I have explored them all and ran 1/2 of the tires on various rigs and be happy to share my thoughts.
[/quot
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. My plan was going with a 275/70/18 because of the reasons you stated. I'm not necessarily looking for a mud tire but I do have a 220 foot steep gravel driveway so this winter hasn't been much fun with the snow/ice with the factory tires
Post by: whacker1 on December 21, 2015, 09:04:57 AM
I'm not necessarily looking for a mud tire but I do have a 220 foot steep gravel driveway so this winter hasn't been much fun with the snow/ice with the factory tires
The Cooper AT3 will out perform my Fierce MT on a steep driveway almost every time. The factory designed siping that comes in the AT3 makes that tire perform really well over most mud tires in slick snow and ice, and still has enough gap in the tread to clean out the heavier snow. :twocents:
It is my favorite tire on the market for light trucks and SUV's. I just have this stupid desire to keep buying mud tires for my pickup that I can't seem to break myself of.
Post by: XAFSSGT on December 21, 2015, 09:07:27 AM
They are relatively quiet, and seem to grip the road in plenty of conditions without effort.
With that said, I've got my eyes on Nitto Trail Grapplers when these die.
I've heard so much good stuff about them, and really like the tread pattern.
Post by: Kittman on December 21, 2015, 09:16:56 AM
Personally I only put BF Goodrich AT's on my trucks.
Post by: CAMPMEAT on December 21, 2015, 09:34:37 AM
I run HANKOOK DYNA PRO ATM 285x70x17 10 ply bought online from DISCOUNT TIRE online for $825 to my door. Then paid a shop to install them for another $100.
I saw these while getting an alignment. The tire shop was pretty busy so I never got a chance to ask about them. How do they do in the snow/ice?
Not good. I use them in the summer only. I've had 3 sets of these tires and currently run them on my '13 Duramax too. They are great highway tires if you keep them aired up and rotated..
Post by: Mossy on December 21, 2015, 09:37:55 AM
I run HANKOOK DYNA PRO ATM 285x70x17 10 ply bought online from DISCOUNT TIRE online for $825 to my door. Then paid a shop to install them for another $100.
I saw these while getting an alignment. The tire shop was pretty busy so I never got a chance to ask about them. How do they do in the snow/ice?
Not good. I use them in the summer only. I've had 3 sets of these tires and currently run them on my '13 Duramax too. They are great highway tires if you keep them aired up and rotated..
Thanks!
Post by: Westside88 on December 21, 2015, 09:46:01 AM
Post by: nickrj11 on December 21, 2015, 09:52:09 AM
I run BF Goodrich all terrains on my pickup. Good tread life, good traction, great in the snow. Every Good Year set I've ever had has literally come apart- chunks of tread coming off, sidewalls splitting. Wouldn't put them on a wagon. I dont have any expereince with the others youve listed
have you seen the new ones? I just saw them last week :drool:
Much more aggressive side wall tread for the deeper snow & mud traction
I had them put on my Colorado... Best tire I've ever had. I had Maxxis Big Horns on my jeep which were good tires and Toyo's on my dodge which I didn't care for. The new BFG's have no road noise despite the more aggressive tread pattern, Great tread life and have had absolutely no issues. One of my friends has them on his 3/4 ton Dodge and my other buddy has them on a 3/4 ton Chevy. All love them. 700 out the door at Costco.
Post by: Alchase on December 21, 2015, 10:18:52 AM
I am not ready to say they are better then AT KOs, but they are close, and at that price the KOs were going for I could buy two sets of Coopers.
Post by: pd on December 21, 2015, 10:30:17 AM
Most of my friends will tell you that I am a self-appointed Tire Researching guru
So, stock size on the 18 inch rim should be 275/65/18
32 inches tall by 10.75 wide.
I run 275/70/18 Fierce Attitude MT's on my F150
33 inches tall, same width at 10.75 wide in round numbers.
I prefer to keep the narrower width for fuel economy, because you will likely lose fuel economy by the change in gear ratio from going taller. No point in losing more fuel economy with more rolling resistance and resistance with wider, but option 2 would be to go to 285/65/18.
32.5 inches tall and 11.25 wide
It appears that you were exploring a mix all terrain and mud terrain on the lighter side of the mud terrains Cost will be a huge factor depending on which you prefer as the MT's are almost always more expensive.
I think in the All terrain the KO2's are difficult to beat for performance, longevity (if rotated regularly and alignment maintained) and cost. Although the cost went up when BFG went to the KO2 over the traditional KO
I am fond of the Pro Comp Extreme AT if you want something wider and a blend of mud terrain and all terrain. 295/65/18 - 33 inches tall x 11.6 wide - watch for the buy 3 get 1 free sale.
More expensive, but a cool looking foot print is the Cooper Zeon LTZ - 275/70/18. They are blend between all terrain, and mud terrain with a really square look.
I have the Cooper AT3 on my Explorer and have referred several friends to them. They are one of the best in the snow and wear really well. I have been super happy with them.
those are few of my thoughts. I have explored them all and ran 1/2 of the tires on various rigs and be happy to share my thoughts.
Dear Tire Researcher Guru, keep on advising. I also have 275/65/18 on my 2013 F-150. The truck currently wears the OEM Goodyear Wranglers (4-ply) garbage tires. I have have 3 splits and 1 nail in 29,000 miles. The nail was bad luck, the 3 splits were on gravel roads in the NF, and this is unacceptable. I will switch to 10-plys sometime in 2016. One of my partners just bought a set of Coopers in 10 ply, and they seem really good. The Coopers are inexpensive (he paid $800 out the door). I normally buy all tires at Les Schwab, but the Toyo ATs are pricing at $1,100 or so.
Give me your thoughts on the best one or two tires to go with for me. I don't care much about fuel economy (currently running an even 18mph highway). I won't drive much in the snow or mud (I carry heavy chains all year). The main thing is not to split tires on bad roads in the woods while hunting.
Post by: swanny on December 21, 2015, 10:38:18 AM
I just (Friday) had the new BFG AT KO2 put on my 4Runner. Can't comment on their performance yet,but they look good :P
Post by: DOUBLELUNG on December 21, 2015, 10:39:47 AM
Post by: boneaddict on December 21, 2015, 10:48:43 AM
Post by: Rick on December 21, 2015, 11:11:02 AM
I swear by Toyo M-55s. 10 ply. A majority of loggers that I've communicated with swear by them too. Problem is, I am sick of les schwab. Not sure what I am willing to do. Love the tire, getting sick of their service, and antics.
Have Discount tire order them for you. Despite popular belief, Toyos aren't just available at Les Schwab
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 21, 2015, 11:17:20 AM
I swear by Toyo M-55s. 10 ply. A majority of loggers that I've communicated with swear by them too. Problem is, I am sick of les schwab. Not sure what I am willing to do. Love the tire, getting sick of their service, and antics.
Ah the old quarterly tire thread. :o
As long as you leave your wallet on the counter there great! :chuckle: :yike:
Post by: bobcat on December 21, 2015, 11:51:56 AM
Cooper tires are made in the USA and are generally priced lower than any other comparable brands.
Post by: Bob33 on December 21, 2015, 11:55:26 AM
Ah the old quarterly tire thread. :oAre you getting a little tired of it?
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 21, 2015, 12:03:44 PM
Ah the old quarterly tire thread. :oAre you getting a little tired of it?
Just entertaining to see them so often, a little search effort and it would sound like a broken record playing. :chuckle:
Post by: Bob33 on December 21, 2015, 12:11:55 PM
So you aren't getting a little tired of it.Ah the old quarterly tire thread. :oAre you getting a little tired of it?
Just entertaining to see them so often, a little search effort and it would sound like a broken record playing. :chuckle:
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 21, 2015, 12:14:41 PM
So you aren't getting a little tired of it.Ah the old quarterly tire thread. :oAre you getting a little tired of it?
Just entertaining to see them so often, a little search effort and it would sound like a broken record playing. :chuckle:
I'll just keep treading on. :chuckle:
Post by: boneaddict on December 21, 2015, 01:09:46 PM
Post by: boneaddict on December 21, 2015, 01:10:10 PM
Post by: Bob33 on December 21, 2015, 01:13:00 PM
But....Bobs is unbalanced so......I tend to veer a bit right but don't worry I'm getting aligned soon.
Post by: Kittman on December 21, 2015, 01:17:09 PM
Post by: notellumcreek on December 21, 2015, 01:18:39 PM
Post by: Curly on December 21, 2015, 01:22:39 PM
What is the general consensus about LT vs P series tires on a 1/2 ton truck?
I know that technically a P series tire should be fine on a 1/2 ton and LT's are maybe not necessary due to the fact that the 1/2 ton suspension can't handle the weight that the LT tire is rated for.....but is an LT tire a good idea on a 1/2 ton anyway?
P series: 1) Initial cost is lower 2) maybe lighter weight so could get slightly better mpg with P series 3) Softer ride/ not as stiff of a ride ?
LT: More plies so less likely to get a flat while driving on logging roads?
What do you tire experts say? Are LT tires a no brainer even for 1/2 ton trucks or is a P series tire an viable option? :dunno:
Post by: Kittman on December 21, 2015, 01:27:53 PM
Post by: whacker1 on December 21, 2015, 01:41:53 PM
So now that the tread is getting derailed......maybe I can ask a question that is sort of off the OP's original topic?
What is the general consensus about LT vs P series tires on a 1/2 ton truck?
I know that technically a P series tire should be fine on a 1/2 ton and LT's are maybe not necessary due to the fact that the 1/2 ton suspension can't handle the weight that the LT tire is rated for.....but is an LT tire a good idea on a 1/2 ton anyway?
P series: 1) Initial cost is lower 2) maybe lighter weight so could get slightly better mpg with P series 3) Softer ride/ not as stiff of a ride ?
LT: More plies so less likely to get a flat while driving on logging roads?
What do you tire experts say? Are LT tires a no brainer even for 1/2 ton trucks or is a P series tire an viable option? :dunno:
A P Metric or P series tires is traditionally considered a 4 or 6 ply tire, and no not even considering it for my 1/2 ton or SUV that spends much time on gravel. Mine will have an 8 or 10 ply tire or load range D or E tire every time. I have had one sidewall blow out on an load range D tire /2 ply side wall. I now buy 3 ply side wall tires almost every time. It doesn't have to be a rock, but maybe a stick to go through the sidewall. I have seen it all before. The other advantage for LT tires over P metric, is that most LT have deeper cut tread and wider gaps cut than the P metric counterpart. They cost more, but should wear longer life than P Metric as well.
Average 4 door half ton weighs 6000 lbs these days, and buy the time you put your hunting gear and buddy in the truck you are approaching 6500-7000lbs depending on the volume of gear. Load range c or 6 ply tire is not sufficient. :twocents:
Post by: whacker1 on December 21, 2015, 01:50:46 PM
Most of my friends will tell you that I am a self-appointed Tire Researching guru
So, stock size on the 18 inch rim should be 275/65/18
32 inches tall by 10.75 wide.
I run 275/70/18 Fierce Attitude MT's on my F150
33 inches tall, same width at 10.75 wide in round numbers.
I prefer to keep the narrower width for fuel economy, because you will likely lose fuel economy by the change in gear ratio from going taller. No point in losing more fuel economy with more rolling resistance and resistance with wider, but option 2 would be to go to 285/65/18.
32.5 inches tall and 11.25 wide
It appears that you were exploring a mix all terrain and mud terrain on the lighter side of the mud terrains Cost will be a huge factor depending on which you prefer as the MT's are almost always more expensive.
I think in the All terrain the KO2's are difficult to beat for performance, longevity (if rotated regularly and alignment maintained) and cost. Although the cost went up when BFG went to the KO2 over the traditional KO
I am fond of the Pro Comp Extreme AT if you want something wider and a blend of mud terrain and all terrain. 295/65/18 - 33 inches tall x 11.6 wide - watch for the buy 3 get 1 free sale.
More expensive, but a cool looking foot print is the Cooper Zeon LTZ - 275/70/18. They are blend between all terrain, and mud terrain with a really square look.
I have the Cooper AT3 on my Explorer and have referred several friends to them. They are one of the best in the snow and wear really well. I have been super happy with them.
those are few of my thoughts. I have explored them all and ran 1/2 of the tires on various rigs and be happy to share my thoughts.
Dear Tire Researcher Guru, keep on advising. I also have 275/65/18 on my 2013 F-150. The truck currently wears the OEM Goodyear Wranglers (4-ply) garbage tires. I have have 3 splits and 1 nail in 29,000 miles. The nail was bad luck, the 3 splits were on gravel roads in the NF, and this is unacceptable. I will switch to 10-plys sometime in 2016. One of my partners just bought a set of Coopers in 10 ply, and they seem really good. The Coopers are inexpensive (he paid $800 out the door). I normally buy all tires at Les Schwab, but the Toyo ATs are pricing at $1,100 or so.
Give me your thoughts on the best one or two tires to go with for me. I don't care much about fuel economy (currently running an even 18mph highway). I won't drive much in the snow or mud (I carry heavy chains all year). The main thing is not to split tires on bad roads in the woods while hunting.
You will lose fuel mileage going from the factory all season tires to any tire I recommend due to weight of tire, tread pattern, and rolling resistance.
But my favorite All terrains for cost, longevity, and quality are as follows.
BFG KO2 in Load range D or E, Cooper AT3, Pro Comp Extreme AT, Toyo AT2 (I think they are too expensive for what you get in return)
For mud tires
Fierce Attitude MT would require 275/70/18 for tire size as they (been the best bang for the buck, cost, longevity, performance in my opinion) wish they had more factory siping and more tire size options available.
BFG KM2 will be a future choice
Goodyear Wrangler Kevlar will be on a future vehicle at some point.
For those willing to go to 20 inch rims on their F150's, they 275/65/20 makes a pretty sweet affordable option to get to 34 inches tall. It also happens to be the stock size for F250 and F350 and Chevy 2500, so there is lots of tire selection to choose from. And significantly more affordable than buying 35x12.50 on 20's.
Post by: thinkingman on December 21, 2015, 02:01:58 PM
Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.
Post by: Curly on December 21, 2015, 02:04:48 PM
So now that the tread is getting derailed......maybe I can ask a question that is sort of off the OP's original topic?
What is the general consensus about LT vs P series tires on a 1/2 ton truck?
I know that technically a P series tire should be fine on a 1/2 ton and LT's are maybe not necessary due to the fact that the 1/2 ton suspension can't handle the weight that the LT tire is rated for.....but is an LT tire a good idea on a 1/2 ton anyway?
P series: 1) Initial cost is lower 2) maybe lighter weight so could get slightly better mpg with P series 3) Softer ride/ not as stiff of a ride ?
LT: More plies so less likely to get a flat while driving on logging roads?
What do you tire experts say? Are LT tires a no brainer even for 1/2 ton trucks or is a P series tire an viable option? :dunno:
A P Metric or P series tires is traditionally considered a 4 or 6 ply tire, and no not even considering it for my 1/2 ton or SUV that spends much time on gravel. Mine will have an 8 or 10 ply tire or load range D or E tire every time. I have had one sidewall blow out on an load range D tire /2 ply side wall. I now buy 3 ply side wall tires almost every time. It doesn't have to be a rock, but maybe a stick to go through the sidewall. I have seen it all before. The other advantage for LT tires over P metric, is that most LT have deeper cut tread and wider gaps cut than the P metric counterpart. They cost more, but should wear longer life than P Metric as well.
Average 4 door half ton weighs 6000 lbs these days, and buy the time you put your hunting gear and buddy in the truck you are approaching 6500-7000lbs depending on the volume of gear. Load range c or 6 ply tire is not sufficient. :twocents:
Thanks. That is what I kind of figured.
Chevrolet doesn't even offer an LT tire option when ordering a 1/2 ton truck. I was shocked that they would offer an LT. Ford gives the option for LT tires but Chevy does not.
I got my Silverado 2 years ago and only have 24,000 miles on the P tires but maybe before next hunting season I will think about getting new tires. Hate to get a flat out in the middle of nowhere Wyoming.
Post by: whacker1 on December 21, 2015, 02:06:52 PM
So now that the tread is getting derailed......maybe I can ask a question that is sort of off the OP's original topic?
What is the general consensus about LT vs P series tires on a 1/2 ton truck?
I know that technically a P series tire should be fine on a 1/2 ton and LT's are maybe not necessary due to the fact that the 1/2 ton suspension can't handle the weight that the LT tire is rated for.....but is an LT tire a good idea on a 1/2 ton anyway?
P series: 1) Initial cost is lower 2) maybe lighter weight so could get slightly better mpg with P series 3) Softer ride/ not as stiff of a ride ?
LT: More plies so less likely to get a flat while driving on logging roads?
What do you tire experts say? Are LT tires a no brainer even for 1/2 ton trucks or is a P series tire an viable option? :dunno:
A P Metric or P series tires is traditionally considered a 4 or 6 ply tire, and no not even considering it for my 1/2 ton or SUV that spends much time on gravel. Mine will have an 8 or 10 ply tire or load range D or E tire every time. I have had one sidewall blow out on an load range D tire /2 ply side wall. I now buy 3 ply side wall tires almost every time. It doesn't have to be a rock, but maybe a stick to go through the sidewall. I have seen it all before. The other advantage for LT tires over P metric, is that most LT have deeper cut tread and wider gaps cut than the P metric counterpart. They cost more, but should wear longer life than P Metric as well.
Average 4 door half ton weighs 6000 lbs these days, and buy the time you put your hunting gear and buddy in the truck you are approaching 6500-7000lbs depending on the volume of gear. Load range c or 6 ply tire is not sufficient. :twocents:
Thanks. That is what I kind of figured.
Chevrolet doesn't even offer an LT tire option when ordering a 1/2 ton truck. I was shocked that they would offer an LT. Ford gives the option for LT tires but Chevy does not.
I got my Silverado 2 years ago and only have 24,000 miles on the P tires but maybe before next hunting season I will think about getting new tires. Hate to get a flat out in the middle of nowhere Wyoming.
Yes, this is extremely irritating. Which is why you see lots on craigslist or on here for folks that sell their factory set of tires in the first 10,000 miles.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on December 21, 2015, 03:46:53 PM
Boss, your humor is a little flat.
Sorry, guess I'll have to be a little more pumped up next time for this thread. :chuckle:
Post by: pd on December 21, 2015, 05:42:48 PM
You will lose fuel mileage going from the factory all season tires to any tire I recommend due to weight of tire, tread pattern, and rolling resistance............
For those willing to go to 20 inch rims on their F150's, they 275/65/20 makes a pretty sweet affordable option to get to 34 inches tall. It also happens to be the stock size for F250 and F350 and Chevy 2500, so there is lots of tire selection to choose from. And significantly more affordable than buying 35x12.50 on 20's.
Thanks. Very helpful.
Post by: Kurt_S on December 21, 2015, 06:00:32 PM
Post by: Rick on December 22, 2015, 07:49:57 AM
The load range/ply rating branded on a tire's sidewall identifies how much load the tire is designed to carry at its industry specified pressure. Passenger tires feature named load ranges while light truck tires use load ranges that ascend in alphabetical order (letters further along in the alphabet identify stronger tires that can withstand higher inflation pressures and carry heavier loads). Before load ranges were adopted, ply ratings and/or the actual number of casing plies were used to identify the relative strength with higher numeric ratings or plies identifying tires featuring stronger, heavier duty constructions.
Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.
Its nice to see someone else understands ply rating. Unless you're running a bias-ply tire you aren't getting 6,8,or 10 plies. An E rated tire isn't necessarily more puncture resistant than a C or D.
Every time I buy tires for my truck,I have some yahoo trying to sell me "10 ply tires". Its frustrating to have to teach the salesman about the product he is trying to sell me.
A lot of guys spend way more than they have to, thinking they're getting something they actually aren't.
Post by: KFhunter on December 22, 2015, 09:33:49 AM
I've been running Nitto Trail Grapplers for a few years and love them. The bonus is they area from Discount tire so I don't have to deal with Les Slob.
They sucked on the ice even new, great everywhere else but I thought I could leave them on year round and was left missing my dedicated snows
Post by: bobcat on December 22, 2015, 09:34:20 AM
Its nice to see someone else understands ply rating. Unless you're running a bias-ply tire you aren't getting 6,8,or 10 plies. An E rated tire isn't necessarily more puncture resistant than a C or D.
How do you determine puncture resistance then, if you can't go by the Load range rating? I bought Load Range E tires for my half ton truck mainly so I didn't have an issue with rocks puncturing them. And I haven't. No flat tires in the 8 years that I've had my current tires. But you're saying if I got the same tire in a Load Range C it would be just as good?
Post by: Jonathan_S on December 22, 2015, 09:37:03 AM
Post by: whacker1 on December 22, 2015, 09:41:19 AM
The load range/ply rating branded on a tire's sidewall identifies how much load the tire is designed to carry at its industry specified pressure. Passenger tires feature named load ranges while light truck tires use load ranges that ascend in alphabetical order (letters further along in the alphabet identify stronger tires that can withstand higher inflation pressures and carry heavier loads). Before load ranges were adopted, ply ratings and/or the actual number of casing plies were used to identify the relative strength with higher numeric ratings or plies identifying tires featuring stronger, heavier duty constructions.
Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.
Its nice to see someone else understands ply rating. Unless you're running a bias-ply tire you aren't getting 6,8,or 10 plies. An E rated tire isn't necessarily more puncture resistant than a C or D.
Every time I buy tires for my truck,I have some yahoo trying to sell me "10 ply tires". Its frustrating to have to teach the salesman about the product he is trying to sell me.
A lot of guys spend way more than they have to, thinking they're getting something they actually aren't.
I completely agree that the load range doesn't guarantee or dictate that it will be any more puncture resistant, but there isn't any published information that would help us determine the information like the old bias ply rating system. some will give you side wall ply's and some will give you material composition, but for the layman, there isn't much to go on. I would wager that in almost every case a load range E is more puncture resistant to a rock than a load range c tire. a nail is a nail and tough to deter a narrow sharp object, but the only ways to offset load rating is to increase the strength of the wall including the sidewall, so it can withstand more airpressure and maintain its integrity. So P metric is usually designed to run at 35lbs running pressure with a max of 50lbs as a general rule. Where an load range E will be designed to run at 50-60 pressure with a max of 80lbs.
If you know something that would give us a better benchmark of puncture resistance on the various brands and styles of tires, I am all ears. The only additional information I have ever found is the Kevlar good years to increase durability/puncture resistance. I am all ears
Post by: Special T on December 22, 2015, 01:44:18 PM
OEM tires are often the minimum because they want what is as cheep as possible. This has the biggest potential for failure with half ton trucks. Most people overload them which is fine for short slow trips but it has an effect on the tire.
When I moved to 19.5all steel tires for my one ton & gooseneck almost eliminated my flats and blowouts. I also greatly increased the milage. It comes at a cost but for me its worth it.(mine are work rigs)
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Post by: jdb on December 22, 2015, 07:29:25 PM
I have run them on my last two rigs and they've done awesome in the show and ice.I run HANKOOK DYNA PRO ATM 285x70x17 10 ply bought online from DISCOUNT TIRE online for $825 to my door. Then paid a shop to install them for another $100.
I saw these while getting an alignment. The tire shop was pretty busy so I never got a chance to ask about them. How do they do in the snow/ice?
Not good. I use them in the summer only. I've had 3 sets of these tires and currently run them on my '13 Duramax too. They are great highway tires if you keep them aired up and rotated..
Post by: 270Shooter on December 22, 2015, 10:23:53 PM
Post by: whacker1 on December 23, 2015, 08:03:01 AM
I will only run load range E tires with 3 ply sidewalls on my truck. Many e rated tires have 2 ply sidewalls and to me it's not worth the risk of getting a flat. My truck had p rated tires when I fort got it and it lasted maybe 20 miles in the wenas before I got a flat. Went down and bought some cooper st maxx and never looked back. Super tough tire for rocks. I now have the cooper stt pro which is basically the same tire with a more agressive tread and sidewall and they have also been flawless on rough rocky roads that I would never even think about taking a p rate tire on.
How many miles do you have the STT Pro on what pickup? They are new enough, I don't know many folks that have run them yet over the original STT.
Post by: thinkingman on December 23, 2015, 08:08:10 AM
Draw your own conclusion.
Post by: Mossy on December 23, 2015, 09:53:10 AM
Post by: Fshnpole on December 23, 2015, 07:27:46 PM
Oh and i forgot to mention i have had the BFGs before and will never buy them again, but like everything there is some room for personal preference.
Post by: bobcat on December 23, 2015, 07:31:25 PM
Post by: carlyoungs on December 23, 2015, 07:35:33 PM
Post by: Fshnpole on December 23, 2015, 07:42:08 PM
Post by: Mossy on December 23, 2015, 11:14:31 PM
Hankooks are made in Korea, Coopers in the USA, if that matters to you.
:tup: One of the reasons I'm favoring the st maxx.
Post by: Special T on December 24, 2015, 07:20:38 AM
Post by: thinkingman on December 27, 2015, 01:59:32 PM
Don't always count on consumer reports. They rate behr paint from home depot as the best paint there is year after year. Anyone who has ever painted can tell you that's about the worst paint there is. I think consumer reports gets a throw back or something for reporting. Maybe I'm wrong but research other studys/reports for tires. Just my :twocents:CR borders on comical they are so far off on certain reviews.
Their irrational Toyota love is ridiculous.
Post by: HntnFsh on December 27, 2015, 02:33:58 PM
Don't always count on consumer reports. They rate behr paint from home depot as the best paint there is year after year. Anyone who has ever painted can tell you that's about the worst paint there is. I think consumer reports gets a throw back or something for reporting. Maybe I'm wrong but research other studys/reports for tires. Just my :twocents:CR borders on comical they are so far off on certain reviews.
Their irrational Toyota love is ridiculous.
Or is it? Plenty of Toyota owners back up CRs reviews!