Post by: LittleJohn on January 27, 2016, 06:30:27 AM
I'm looking to buy a used Dodge truck.
Diesel, Manual trani
I had a 97 cummings and never should have sold it :{
Any years I should stay away from ??
I'm not a motor head so talk to me like your talking to your mother about vehicles :chuckle:
Thanks guys :tup:
Post by: NW-GSP on January 27, 2016, 06:35:29 AM
Post by: syoungs on January 27, 2016, 06:53:58 AM
Post by: jaredwitman on January 27, 2016, 07:27:44 AM
Post by: WAPatriot on January 27, 2016, 07:32:21 AM
Hey guys
I'm looking to buy a used Dodge truck.
Diesel, Manual trani
I had a 97 cummings and never should have sold it :{
Any years I should stay away from ??
I'm not a motor head so talk to me like your talking to your mother about vehicles :chuckle:
Thanks guys :tup:
Ya join the club 96-98 been looking for a couple of years
Post by: netcoyote on January 27, 2016, 07:56:35 AM
PM me if you want details.
Post by: WoodlandShooter on January 27, 2016, 09:45:11 AM
Lift Pump Pressure
Look for evidence of a wire tap fueling box by looking for any damage to the insulation on the rear wire in the top of the VP44 FPCM (the box on top of the injection pump)
If it's an auto, it will probably need a tranny.
if it's a 5spd, it may need 5th gear looked at
if it's a 6spd, it might need a clutch
they all will most likely need a track bar and ball joints
Post by: toyman2 on January 27, 2016, 09:54:37 AM
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.
Post by: Eric M on January 27, 2016, 10:14:55 AM
Post by: DRobnsn on January 27, 2016, 10:59:19 AM
Not sure how new your looking at.
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.
2010 was the body style change to a real crew cab for the RAM. 2007.5-2012 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, no urea. 2013+ 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, and urea.
5.9l cummins auto's are 4 forward speeds while all of the 6.7s use a 6 forward speed auto. The 6 speed is showing to be far superior in stock form, both in drive ability and longevity.
Post by: jackelope on January 27, 2016, 11:01:00 AM
Not sure how new your looking at.
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.
2010 was the body style change to a real crew cab for the RAM. 2007.5-2012 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, no urea. 2013+ 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, and urea.
5.9l cummins auto's are 4 forward speeds while all of the 6.7s use a 6 forward speed auto. The 6 speed is showing to be far superior in stock form, both in drive ability and longevity.
2005.5 or 2007.5 re: the DPF?
I might suggest steering clear of any of the early 6.7L's. I.E. late 2007-2008.
Post by: DRobnsn on January 27, 2016, 11:02:00 AM
Not sure how new your looking at.
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.
2010 was the body style change to a real crew cab for the RAM. 2007.5-2012 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, no urea. 2013+ 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, and urea.
5.9l cummins auto's are 4 forward speeds while all of the 6.7s use a 6 forward speed auto. The 6 speed is showing to be far superior in stock form, both in drive ability and longevity.
2005.5 or 2007.5 re: the DPF?
Your quick but not quite quick enough :chuckle:
Post by: jackelope on January 27, 2016, 11:03:53 AM
:)
Post by: KFhunter on January 27, 2016, 11:12:18 AM
look at the exhaust manifold for an EGT probe, usually a hole drilled just in front of the turbo in the manifold itself and a probe installed. Does the manifold look reddish and brittle like it's been red hot a few times? Or dull looking. Look at enough manifolds you might see some differences and can spot one that been run very hot quite a bit.
While your in there pop the rubber hose off the front of the turbo, the intake boot, and (if engine is cold and off) grab that nut on the turbo and give it a wiggle. Shouldn't be any play up and down at all. You might feel a tiny play in and out but if it's wiggling up and town it's a bad turbo just waiting to blow up. Carry a screw driver with multiple tips in the handle.
next take the oil filler cap off and set it where it won't fall and start the engine, is their white smoke and air blowing out of the oil filler cap hole? It's got bad rings and excessive blow by and needs rebuilt engine. There shouldn't be enough air coming out to displace the filler cap if you just gently set it in the hole but don't screw it in, should just rest there vibrating with the engine but not blowing back out.
after you shut off the engine and replace the oil filler cap crawl down under the front bumper and start wiggling steering arms and components, should all feel solid. Check the u joints in the 4x4, not a deal breaker but you might find some bad U joints while you're under there.
Post by: jrebel on January 27, 2016, 11:14:25 AM
Post by: KFhunter on January 27, 2016, 11:17:19 AM
I have an 06 manual and it is amazing. 160K and still running strong. Can't go wrong with 05, 06, 07 (early) vintage. :tup:
G56?
Post by: jrebel on January 27, 2016, 12:01:35 PM
I have an 06 manual and it is amazing. 160K and still running strong. Can't go wrong with 05, 06, 07 (early) vintage. :tup:
G56?
Not sure....whatever came stock in it. It is 100% stock minus the leveling kit. Not a huge gear head so so not 100% sure what clutch is in it. With that said, I have never had a problem with it.
Post by: KFhunter on January 27, 2016, 12:10:13 PM
If your transmission has a whine then switch to manufacturers recommended 75w90w gear oil. It'll extend life and kill the whine.
actually switch anyways, ATF+4 doesn't belong in a manual transmission, all for a very slight MPG boost.
http://dieselhub.com/trans/G56.html
Post by: Special T on January 27, 2016, 12:44:38 PM
The older autos are garbage but I really liked the all mechanical 12 valves. The 24valves were ok. The key to making the tranny last was not to pull in 5th gear. I spun the 5th gear off 3times on the last one. Every 30k. Even welding onto the end of the shaft didnt work. The surging with all the weight is what killed them. I would haul 16k behind the truck for at least 100k miles a year on them rarely disconnecting the trailer. I personally think the 04-early07 are the best vintage with the stick. Im gona keep rebuilding my 2 current ones until its no longer possible.
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Post by: jackelope on January 27, 2016, 01:51:20 PM
Ive had 5 dodge cummins 1990 auto and then a bunch of sticks 98 &01 5spped and currently 03&056 speed.
The older autos are garbage but I really liked the all mechanical 12 valves. The 24valves were ok. The key to making the tranny last was not to pull in 5th gear. I spun the 5th gear off 3times on the last one. Every 30k. Even welding onto the end of the shaft didnt work. The surging with all the weight is what killed them. I would haul 16k behind the truck for at least 100k miles a year on them rarely disconnecting the trailer. I personally think the 04-early07 are the best vintage with the stick. Im gona keep rebuilding my 2 current ones until its no longer possible.
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Fairly safe to wager that out of all the people that will read this post, there may be 1, 2 at most, other people who tow like you do.
Under the conditions that most use these type trucks, they'll never have that issue.
Post by: Special T on January 27, 2016, 02:00:54 PM
I used to drive more than that, but that is how many miles I put on each truck! I was having the argument with my brother who was looking at purchasing a gas work truck. I couldnt uderstand why. I guess you 2 are both correct because I have worked my fair share of dodges at capacity or slightly over for a Loooong time. Ive gotten a little smarter, ive hired semi trucks more when possible.Ive had 5 dodge cummins 1990 auto and then a bunch of sticks 98 &01 5spped and currently 03&056 speed.
The older autos are garbage but I really liked the all mechanical 12 valves. The 24valves were ok. The key to making the tranny last was not to pull in 5th gear. I spun the 5th gear off 3times on the last one. Every 30k. Even welding onto the end of the shaft didnt work. The surging with all the weight is what killed them. I would haul 16k behind the truck for at least 100k miles a year on them rarely disconnecting the trailer. I personally think the 04-early07 are the best vintage with the stick. Im gona keep rebuilding my 2 current ones until its no longer possible.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk
Fairly safe to wager that out of all the people that will read this post, there may be 1, 2 at most, other people who tow like you do.
Under the conditions that most use these type trucks, they'll never have that issue.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk
Post by: Piscatory_5 on January 27, 2016, 02:41:10 PM
Post by: DRobnsn on January 27, 2016, 03:43:09 PM
all of what's said above but want to add
look at the exhaust manifold for an EGT probe, usually a hole drilled just in front of the turbo in the manifold itself and a probe installed. Does the manifold look reddish and brittle like it's been red hot a few times? Or dull looking. Look at enough manifolds you might see some differences and can spot one that been run very hot quite a bit.
While your in there pop the rubber hose off the front of the turbo, the intake boot, and (if engine is cold and off) grab that nut on the turbo and give it a wiggle. Shouldn't be any play up and down at all. You might feel a tiny play in and out but if it's wiggling up and town it's a bad turbo just waiting to blow up. Carry a screw driver with multiple tips in the handle.
next take the oil filler cap off and set it where it won't fall and start the engine, is their white smoke and air blowing out of the oil filler cap hole? It's got bad rings and excessive blow by and needs rebuilt engine. There shouldn't be enough air coming out to displace the filler cap if you just gently set it in the hole but don't screw it in, should just rest there vibrating with the engine but not blowing back out.
after you shut off the engine and replace the oil filler cap crawl down under the front bumper and start wiggling steering arms and components, should all feel solid. Check the u joints in the 4x4, not a deal breaker but you might find some bad U joints while you're under there.
I think your backwards on your turbo shaft play. Some up and down (radial movement) is okay. Holset specs for a HX35 is 0.013 - 0.020 for radial play. For axial or in and out it is 0.001 - 0.005.
You can find tolerances for Holsets HX and HY lineups here: http://www.holset.co.uk/partsservice/service/HX_Service_Data_Sheet.pdf
Post by: LittleJohn on January 27, 2016, 03:54:37 PM
Greatly appreciated
Post by: lewy on January 27, 2016, 04:15:43 PM
Post by: bknilvr00 on January 27, 2016, 05:29:42 PM
Post by: HntnFsh on January 27, 2016, 06:37:39 PM
Post by: 257wbymagkiller on January 27, 2016, 06:53:47 PM
Post by: sureshotpaleface on January 27, 2016, 08:37:56 PM
What years did they have issues with cracked blocks. Seems like they were cast in Brazil. And we're cra king by the motor mount.99-01...thin water jacket casting...53 block...Google it and plenty of info will be found on them.
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Post by: gonehuntin68 on January 27, 2016, 08:59:26 PM
Post by: HntnFsh on January 28, 2016, 06:09:48 AM
I have that block with 175,000 miles on it. All good.
From what I remember, and obviously I'm a little weak in that area right now. It was about a 50-50 chance of them cracking. Sounds like you got the right side of the 50-50!
Post by: Sakko300wsm on January 28, 2016, 06:56:27 AM
And the stock crap in the front ends of the 08's suck!
Post by: bearpaw on January 28, 2016, 08:15:19 AM
Unless you need the power of a diesel I would avoid buying one. It is far cheaper to maintain gas trucks. :twocents:
Post by: KFhunter on January 28, 2016, 09:01:19 AM
I too am in the market for a farm truck, been looing at a higher mileage diesel. What are some of the definite maintenance milestones to be aware of with the Dodge? I know the 250k injector replacement is one, anything else you can think of?
injectors aren't a big deal but do cost a bit, I replaced my own with +50hp injectors just to help a little bit. The 1995 auto's were turds in stock form.
for a farm truck I suggest looking for a manual only, auto's + farming = suck
Post by: Special T on January 28, 2016, 11:04:43 AM
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Post by: DRobnsn on January 28, 2016, 11:53:09 AM
Im curious why a one ton for farming the only real use I can see is hauling cattle or small loads. With the awesome farm excemptions out there id probably jump straight to a semi truck.
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To me it would depend on the usage. I would seriously be looking into cost of ownership if your going Semi. Remember, big trucks equal big bucks! :chuckle:
Post by: KFhunter on January 28, 2016, 11:59:06 AM
Im curious why a one ton for farming the only real use I can see is hauling cattle or small loads. With the awesome farm excemptions out there id probably jump straight to a semi truck.
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pretty much everyone is going to goose necks, even ranchers that have 3-4 semi's are switching to 1 ton trucks and lightweight stock trailers.
At the cattle auction I didn't see a single semi truck and their load/offload area was blocked off where people parked their vehicles so I guess they don't show up a lot there or they'd have to move 20 some pickups out the way. Stock trailers are so low to the ground you don't need special ramps.
Post by: Special T on January 28, 2016, 12:11:57 PM
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Post by: WoodlandShooter on January 28, 2016, 01:28:39 PM
What years did they have issues with cracked blocks. Seems like they were cast in Brazil. And we're cra king by the motor mount.99-01...thin water jacket casting...53 block...Google it and plenty of info will be found on them.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
55 series blocks also crack...mine did!!
Post by: Forks on January 29, 2016, 06:50:33 AM
I had an 08, everytime I turned around it had issues. The engine/tranny were fine but everything else was junkThis has been my experience with my 08 fully deleted. Love the Mercedes G56 and Cummins, the Dodge around those components is a cheap pile. Should have spent a little more on the Duramax I was looking at.
Post by: LittleJohn on January 29, 2016, 04:38:44 PM
I had an 08, everytime I turned around it had issues. The engine/tranny were fine but everything else was junkThis has been my experience with my 08 fully deleted. Love the Mercedes G56 and Cummins, the Dodge around those components is a cheap pile. Should have spent a little more on the Duramax I was looking at.
I have an 06 duramax that I'm getting rid of
Put over $4500 in it in two years. Mostly in the trani
I'm done spending money on it
Post by: Grit dog on February 03, 2016, 08:33:39 AM
$4500 in 2 years is nothing on a 10 year old diesel to spend. Actually that's peanuts if it's shop work and not just parts cost.
Also no reason to have any trans issues with your LBZ unless super high miles, lack of maint, or beat on relentlessly, so either you got a turd, unlikely, or did something to destroy it.