Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: SeaRun1 on January 27, 2009, 05:55:11 PM
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Hey I am doing my reading prior to getting into reloading. I have a Lyman manual and a Hornady manual. Very interesting. Anyways I see a couple of terms used and I can't find a translation so to speak.
What does BC stand for? Is SD seating depth?
So far it seems to be a little less intimidating then I thought. There are however a few ways to go wrong so I am learning as much as I can before I buy the materials.
Any reloaders in Gig Harbor/Tacoma area that can help a guy out with some beginners tips?
SeaRun1
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BC=ballistic coefficient, SD= sectional density
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BC=ballistic coefficient, SD= sectional density
:yeah:
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Its good that you read a bit before jumping into reloading. I think that most people will recommend that you read a couple books first anyway. Most ouwld recommend having at least 3 reloading manuals to reference and cross reference information.
Just make sure that you pay attention to what you are doing to avoid any accidents like putting two charges in one case. I like reloading and get better bang for the buck and more accuracy out of it.
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lots of abbreviations
OAL
MOA
BC
SD
It took me a long time not only to understand the acronym, but really understand what Section Density and Balistic Coefficient really mean to how I load.
Only suggestion - start low on the powder and work your way up to hotter charges. I found my .270 shoots best several grains below max. I give up almost 100 feet per second, but patterns are as tight as they have ever been. Just getting started with my 300 RUM. enjoy.
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It can be done, but if you can find an experienced reloader to get you started. I would love to help you out, but not in your area. Read a few books, and articles but experience is huge. I would suggest you start with pistol rounds simply because they are easy. I would buy carbide dies if possible. The biggest problem with carbide is that you won't need to lube, and you need to get a feel for the proper amount. Plus bottle necks will dimple if you use too much. I would suggest you get some basic tools like a hand primer. I use a Lee and prefer it over the RCBS. Plus you need clean cases, so you will need a case cleaner. Then a decent press, so skip right by the cheap stuff. You won't save a dime in the long run. Buy one of the kits, and RCBS seems to have the best overall kit with the Rock Chucker. Dies you can go with what ever you prefer. I have mostly RCBS, but also Redding, and Hornady with all working fine. If you buy rifle dies buy them in the full kit with the neck sizer included. You need a case deburrer/chamfering tool. A primer pocket cleaner. Start with the manual listed loads, and don't go over what they publish. You can go over later as you get experience. If you start out with everything at SAMI spec you will have no problems, and you can add and and change as you get experience. Keep records on what you do and how it turns out. Best clue I can give you is DON'T DRINK ALCOHOL, and error on the side of caution. I have been reloading for 32yrs and I can assure you that you can detail youself to death if you want.
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Hey Searun, I'm in Spanaway, but work in Gig Harbor. I don't mind helping out. I learned quite a bit prior to actual starting, and even more once I started. I currently reload 223, 243, 30-30, 25-06, 270 win, 7mm rem mag, and 300 win mag. What are you looking to reload? Send me a pm.
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Only suggestion - start low on the powder and work your way up to hotter charges. I found my .270 shoots best several grains below max. I give up almost 100 feet per second, but patterns are as tight as they have ever been.
:yeah:
Back in August, I fired 150 rounds of .270 test ammo. We loaded up 10 rounds of each bullet weight and powder charge. Using a chronograph and targets, we were able to discern which powder load works best for each bullet for the best accuracy. Also found out which bullet/powder combo our rifles like. Mine likes one, while my Dad's Rem 700 likes another. Testing.. testing... testing.
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JEEPASAURUSREX
What did you end up with? mine likes the 140 gr Nosler Accubond, and 52.5 grains of H4350.
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SeaRun1.... the info dbllunger provided is real solid. I'd suggest getting a couple manuals on the subject and just power over them to get a good base of info in your head.
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JEEPASAURUSREX
What did you end up with? mine likes the 140 gr Nosler Accubond, and 52.5 grains of H4350.
Im at work, I will have to look when I get home tonight.
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Some of the loads we shot, best results. Others were off in either velocity or accuracy.
130gr Nosler Partitions 50gr of Hogden 4831 2430fps
130gr Hornady 56gr of Hogden 4831 2734fps (most accurate load)
150gr Barnes TSX 54gr of Hogden 4831 2566fps
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Those are the most aneamic velocities I've ever seen for a .270... a .260 will shoot 130s faster than that. If you ain't getting 3k out of a 130... then you ain't shooting a .270 Win. Accuracy rules... but if I were you... I'd be looking for another load. Seriously... you're down 400-600fps.
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yeah Im getting more out of an 06 with a 165 grain!
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The data for the Barnes also seems pretty low. The barnes reloading data shows over 2,700 fps for the minimum charge. BTW - I suggest you try the 130 or maybe 140 gr TSX instead of the 150gr.
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I thought that also. I'm also wondering if the chrono might have been set up incorrectly (Dad set it up).
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140 grain Nosler Accubond with the 52.5 grains of H4350 - I chronoed at 2850. I tried Barnes and could get the patterns very tight and they weren't coming across the chrono as fast either. I tried several different brands of bullet, a few different powders, but when I saw how tight the current combination is, I quit. I can get them going faster, but my groups start to fall apart.
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Im not 100% set on the chronograph numbers. The 130gr Hornadys produced the best group (5 shot, 1.125" group) of the bunch. We had some loaded hotter and cooler, but 56gr of Hogdens 4831 seemed to work the best. Looking at the damage the bullets did to 3/4" plate, I would say they were moving quick. :chuckle:
