Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: Ghost Hunter on July 23, 2016, 08:45:10 AM
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Aftermarket Jacobs brake on my '05' Dodge Ram quit working. Dealer installed at 12,000 miles (8/05) - $1826. Replaced vacuum pump and module at 50,000 (2/09) - $1527. 140,000 miles and diagnosed as needing vacuum pump - $1200. I've priced a rebuilt vacuum pump at NAPA and think I can do it myself for 1/4 of that. I installed a MBRP exhaust this spring and K&N air intake a month ago. Any reason those should affect the jake brake? Seems I'm making new truck payments with the upkeep and repairs :dunno:
Going without the jake is not an option when towing a 10K trailer. :bdid:
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I've pulled plenty of 10k loads with my 14 dodge without the use of the factory Jake brake. Not questioning whether or not you need it, just curious why you have to have it?
Good luck getting things straightened out, regardless.
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I've pulled plenty of 10k loads with my 14 dodge without the use of the factory Jake brake. Not questioning whether or not you need it, just curious why you have to have it?
Good luck getting things straightened out, regardless.
Maybe I've got accustomed to it with my driving style :dunno: :chuckle: Mountain passes and steep grades it makes a huge difference.
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I've nver used sn exhaust brake, but I bet once you have, it's tough to go back.
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Most of the exhaust brakes I've dealt with are air operated. This must be electric/vacuum? You'll have to see if there is power and ground at the connection and test the vacuum pump with a mighty vac( or similar vacuum gauge) to see if it holds vacuum. Worst case would be to pull your exhaust pipe back and make sure the flap inside moves freely. On air operated ones it's either a leak, a bad cylinder or the flap is seized up.
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I've pulled plenty of 10k loads with my 14 dodge without the use of the factory Jake brake. Not questioning whether or not you need it, just curious why you have to have it?
Good luck getting things straightened out, regardless.
Maybe I've got accustomed to it with my driving style :dunno: :chuckle: Mountain passes and steep grades it makes a huge difference.
I see, you drive it like a sports car. :chuckle:
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Watch the K&N intake They have had some bad reviews. Guys are dusting their motors and burning up turbos.
AFE makes a filter that fits the 3rd gen K&N tube. Much better filter.
Sorry for the thread jack.
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Feel your pain, I use mine all the time even without the trailer
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I've nver used sn exhaust brake, but I bet once you have, it's tough to go back.
You are 100% correct in your assumption and the heavier the load, the more useful an exhaust brake becomes. It makes for an overall safer setup when hauling/towing heavier than normal loads.
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Is your truck a manual or auto?
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Is your truck a manual or auto?
manual 6 speed
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Is your truck a manual or auto?
manual 6 speed
6 Speed ish. lol
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Best thing you can have on a manual of that vintage. I should have purchased as a factory option new but the commercial salesman didn't even offer it as an upsell.
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I think I'd start with a good check on all of the rubber lines from the vac. pump to the actuator then a vacuum gauge teed into the vac. line for the brake itself. Throw it up under the wiper and go for a drive see if you have vacuum pressure when the brake is applied. I would also check the push pull switch and the relay for proper operation with a meter. The only reason I could see your exhaust or intake causing issues is if you hit a wire connector or pulled a line off while installing them. Other than the obvious they should change nothing with the brake.
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I dunno but I have heard common problem is valve in pipe gums up from soot. Maybe good cleaning is all it needs. Likely something simple and cheap.
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$270 for a rebuilt vacuum pump fixed the problem. Now if I can figure out a goofy tail/brake light issue, I'll be back in business.
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Glad to hear you sorted it out. :tup: