Post by: Lcarey1985 on September 29, 2016, 01:09:57 PM
P.S. I hunt in northeast Washington. thick country up there with your occasional long shot opportunities. So I think 100 yard zero is good! I also a BDC scope!
Post by: kckrawler on September 29, 2016, 01:25:31 PM
Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 :twocents:
Post by: mdbuck5x5 on September 29, 2016, 01:30:26 PM
Post by: jay.sharkbait on September 29, 2016, 01:36:07 PM
First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.
Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 :twocents:
That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.
That's why they call it splash!
Post by: jackelope on September 29, 2016, 02:05:19 PM
Awesome.First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.
Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 :twocents:
That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.
That's why they call it splash!
If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.
Post by: Lcarey1985 on September 29, 2016, 03:44:49 PM
Awesome.First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.
Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 :twocents:
That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.
That's why they call it splash!
If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.
I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense. I am going to try this and see how well it works!
Post by: kckrawler on September 29, 2016, 03:53:44 PM
Awesome.First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.
Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 :twocents:
That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.
That's why they call it splash!
If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.
I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense. I am going to try this and see how well it works!
:tup: No offense taken. I kind of dig the buddy method you described, might give that a shot next time I need to sight in.
Post by: JDHasty on September 29, 2016, 04:03:58 PM
Awesome.First, you'll want to start at 25 yards or 50 yards. Bore Sighting has it's limitations.
Personally, I like to zero out at 200 yards. About 2" high at 100 :twocents:
That's why I usually just send one into a lake or a river or something.
That's why they call it splash!
If someone knows how to bore sight, they should put you on paper at 100 yards. Adjust from there. I've never started at 25 or 50. Like the OP said, everyone has a different method I guess.
I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense. I am going to try this and see how well it works!
That is how we have done it for the last three or four decades. It is the most efficient way to get it done.
Post by: Widgeondeke on September 29, 2016, 04:33:48 PM
[/quote]
I agree! me personally I have never shot a deer at 200 yards. no offense to you but I'm doing a zero at 100 yards. so yes bore sight should put you on paper! I just watched a youtube video of a guy sighting in his rifle.
made one shot obviously aiming at the center of target. he hit 3 inches right and 3 inches low. So back on the rest he is aiming at the center target again and had a friend adjust the crosshairs to where the first shot hit, in the meantime not moving the gun at all.
then took a second shot and NO it wasn't perfect but repeated the steps and third shot he had his zero. so from what I found this is the simplest procedure to zero your gun!
so hope fully this makes sense. I am going to try this and see how well it works!
[/quote]
:yeah: my preferred method, less the buddy
Post by: PastorJoel on September 29, 2016, 05:41:23 PM
Also, check out http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.html to learn where your shots will be relative to the recitals (assuming you have a Nikon Prostaff, which comes with the gun, or at least did come with those guns).
Also, use only one type of ammo so as to be most consistent. I recommend that you buy 4-5 boxes so that you always have the same stuff available.
Post by: browney5er on September 29, 2016, 06:08:12 PM
Post by: steeleywhopper on September 29, 2016, 06:57:41 PM
Post by: Calvin Rayborn on September 29, 2016, 06:59:32 PM
Post by: brew on September 29, 2016, 07:10:45 PM
I typically won't touch my scope until I've shot a three shot group.my :twocents: is a 3 shot group when first sighting in is a waste of ammo IF you have a solid rest and you know your gear and ammo is good. most firearms and ammo today are accurate enough to adjust your crosshairs after a shot if you felt you had a good hold on the target. once you are hitting about 1 1/2" or 2" high at 100 yards you can take a few timed shots and actually see where it groups. with a 270 sighted in 2" high at 100 yards your bullet will not be more than 2" low at around 250 yards that that should be a pretty good "dead on" hold. good luck
Post by: cooltimber on September 29, 2016, 07:47:43 PM
Post by: pashok23 on September 29, 2016, 08:14:31 PM
Post by: csaaphill on September 29, 2016, 08:45:17 PM
Post by: hunter67wa on September 29, 2016, 08:45:43 PM
Post by: tgomez on September 30, 2016, 12:55:21 AM
Post by: Lcarey1985 on September 30, 2016, 08:05:01 AM
Post by: coachcw on September 30, 2016, 08:39:07 AM
Post by: curlewkiller on September 30, 2016, 08:49:52 AM
Post by: Lcarey1985 on September 30, 2016, 11:10:10 AM
Remember to take your time so as to not over heat the barrel.
Also, check out http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.html to learn where your shots will be relative to the recitals (assuming you have a Nikon Prostaff, which comes with the gun, or at least did come with those guns).
Also, use only one type of ammo so as to be most consistent. I recommend that you buy 4-5 boxes so that you always have the same stuff available.
I bought the package but I took the scope off and put it on my 22-250. and bought a nicer SPOTON BDC scope for my .270. so I did check that out and that's about the coolest thing ive seen. makes it easier if you know what your yardage is on each dot. . thanks for that! Appreciate it!
Post by: copasj on October 01, 2016, 07:25:39 AM
There is no real reason to zero a modern cartridge like a .270 at 100yds IMO. They are so fast that you can't rise out of the vitals with a 200 yard zero, or even more. My wifes 7mm-08 is zeroed at 30/210 yards and the bullet is +/- 2.5" out to 250 yards. My 7x57 is zeroed at 25/210 yards and it is +/- 3" to 250 yards. Either are well inside the kill zone of deer.
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Post by: 12Gauge on October 01, 2016, 08:36:13 AM
With a scope sighted rifle, a 25 yard zero will get you pretty darn close to a 200 yard zero with most rifle/caliber/scope combinations. Most of the time I'll dial in at 25 and then confirm/fine tune at 200.
There is no real reason to zero a modern cartridge like a .270 at 100yds IMO. They are so fast that you can't rise out of the vitals with a 200 yard zero, or even more. My wifes 7mm-08 is zeroed at 30/210 yards and the bullet is +/- 2.5" out to 250 yards. My 7x57 is zeroed at 25/210 yards and it is +/- 3" to 250 yards. Either are well inside the kill zone of deer.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Great info here guys. I use the 25/200 to sight in.
Post by: goldenhtr on October 01, 2016, 08:48:33 AM
With a scope sighted rifle, a 25 yard zero will get you pretty darn close to a 200 yard zero with most rifle/caliber/scope combinations. Most of the time I'll dial in at 25 and then confirm/fine tune at 200.
There is no real reason to zero a modern cartridge like a .270 at 100yds IMO. They are so fast that you can't rise out of the vitals with a 200 yard zero, or even more. My wifes 7mm-08 is zeroed at 30/210 yards and the bullet is +/- 2.5" out to 250 yards. My 7x57 is zeroed at 25/210 yards and it is +/- 3" to 250 yards. Either are well inside the kill zone of deer.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Great info here guys. I use the 25/200 to sight in.
:yeah:
30-06/ 180gr BT
Post by: luteai on October 03, 2016, 08:39:50 PM
Post by: KFhunter on October 03, 2016, 08:41:46 PM
works pretty good if you have a sled or some way to make sure nothing moves but your eyeball
Post by: Stein on October 03, 2016, 08:49:52 PM
Post by: Lcarey1985 on October 05, 2016, 11:02:28 AM
Post by: Bob33 on October 05, 2016, 11:11:16 AM
Post by: Okanagan on October 05, 2016, 11:51:19 AM
Anyone do it this way? (This only applies to bolt actions) First off, I always mount my own scopes. Rest the rifle on some steady bags or a good sled. Remove the bolt. Eyeball through the rear of the bore all the way through at a 25 yd target, lining-up the concentric circles of the rear of the chamber and the muzzle opening with the bull (putting the bore in straight alignment with the target). THEN....without disturbing the gun, adjusting the scope turrets to bullseye as well. Gets you well on the paper every time. Can start fine tuning your shots from there. Boresighter tools...Don't need em! 😀
Works for me solo and has for years. Here is one suggestion to refine this method: eyeball through the concentric circles of bore etc. at a target AS FAR AWAY AS POSSIBLE. In the Tri-Cities I used a top insulator on a power line tower three miles away. The farther away the object is that you center in the bore the longer the radius of the line of sight and the smaller the angle of divergence. I now use the corner of a chimney about 150 yards away as the handiest long distance and am usually within an inch or closer my first shot at 100 yards.
Re 100 yard zero: The OP is set on a 100 yard zero, and that will kill game fine. I've killed far more big game at under 50 yards than over, but take 300 yard shots without a thought nor hesitation. A 100 yard zero is handicapping a 300 plus yard tool, and making use of it beyond about 180 yards more complicated with clicks, extra reticle bars and thinking. That's OK. It would be good if somehow (most) new hunters were limited to 100 yard shots!)
Post by: buckfvr on October 05, 2016, 12:04:05 PM
I recently did this for my sons new rifle with a BDC scope and it matches very closely out to 400 yards that I tested. He will kill using his BDC marks out to 400, if we can test 5, maybe that is good enough also, but this type results with a BDC scope can only be obtained by using an ammo that closely matches the sample velocity and weights they give you in their directions.
I also use a Magneto Sport to get true velocities, not published ones. Good luck..........
Post by: andrew_in_idaho on October 05, 2016, 03:33:35 PM
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Post by: Okanagan on October 05, 2016, 04:22:12 PM
Since he's shooting a bdc reticle a 100 yd zero is perfect. After zeroing at 100 yards shoot a shot for each of your holdover marks aiming at bull. Where each shot hits using holdover marks will give you the amount of moa that each mark is holding over for you. For example at 100 yds using my Tasco world class on my .25-06 with holdover marks my shots are roughly 1.5", 3.5", 6" and 9" high at 100 yards. Then I punch my load into a ballistics calculator to determine that in actuality instead of my holdover marks being at 200,300,400 and 500 they are actually 215,315,420, and 530 yards. With the vortex on my .300 win mag with a vortex I did the same calculations to determine that my holdover are actually at 215, 365, 490 and the top of the reticle post is 615(11 moa). Not all bdc scopes are created equal and not all loads match what the bdc manuals say the holdover marks should be
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That's a lot of remembering and thinking and ranging for a newbie :) A LOT of remembering and thinking if he's looking at big horns for the first time while doing the thinking and remembering.
Especially when he can sight it in a smidge over 2 inches high at 100, forget about the scope and just shoot things. Just put the crosshairs in the middle of the chest and kill deer and larger game out close to 300 yards. Sounds like he is going to do that conservatively, with a 100 yard zero and nailing closer, surer shots. That ain't a bad plan.
Post by: buckfvr on October 05, 2016, 04:43:24 PM
Since he's shooting a bdc reticle a 100 yd zero is perfect. After zeroing at 100 yards shoot a shot for each of your holdover marks aiming at bull. Where each shot hits using holdover marks will give you the amount of moa that each mark is holding over for you. For example at 100 yds using my Tasco world class on my .25-06 with holdover marks my shots are roughly 1.5", 3.5", 6" and 9" high at 100 yards. Then I punch my load into a ballistics calculator to determine that in actuality instead of my holdover marks being at 200,300,400 and 500 they are actually 215,315,420, and 530 yards. With the vortex on my .300 win mag with a vortex I did the same calculations to determine that my holdover are actually at 215, 365, 490 and the top of the reticle post is 615(11 moa). Not all bdc scopes are created equal and not all loads match what the bdc manuals say the holdover marks should be
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If you want to go there, then my opinion of BDC scopes is very low. I dont like being only close or compensating to place odd values on marks. May as well turn turrets which is what I do because bdc doesnt satisfy me in terms of absolute accuracy or precision. BDC works good enough for my son and he is happy with it, but I wont have one........not with todays technology and whats available to us all. I agree, simple is better in most cases.......
Post by: JDHasty on October 05, 2016, 05:53:10 PM
Hash marks are more than sufficient in most big game hunting instances and they are fast to use.
Post by: davk on October 05, 2016, 07:16:04 PM
Post by: JDHasty on October 06, 2016, 04:51:14 AM
I have a Site Light Green laser bore slighter, and it usually gets me within five inches of dead center anyway, but the big piece of cardboard is there for insurance.
Post by: Skyvalhunter on October 06, 2016, 05:48:42 AM
Post by: Don Fischer on October 06, 2016, 10:11:07 AM
Zero =276yds
height at 100yds = +3.2"
200yds = +3.4"
300yds = -1.7"
Doing it this way allow's you to hold dead on the target to well over 300yds, 323yds. utilize's all the trajectory you rifle and load has to offer. years ago the suggestion was always to zero in 3 1/2" high at 100yds, probably works well. If you zero at 100yds and for what ever reason have a shot at say 200yds, hold dead on and you'll probably shoot under the aiming point, miss or maybe wound the animal. But by zeroing to MPBR if the animal is 50yds, your bullet will strike +1.4" above point of aim.
Imagine the target size is the diameter of a pipe your looking through. I the above, I gave the trajectory of the load with it never hitting the top of the pipe or falling below the pipe when the POI is dead center in the pipe. Depending on which rifle I'm shooting I can adjust the size of the target to suit myself.
Post by: grade-creek-rd on October 06, 2016, 11:16:27 AM
Grade
Post by: Lcarey1985 on October 06, 2016, 12:40:54 PM