Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Scopes and Optics => Topic started by: Duckslayer89 on December 09, 2016, 06:31:00 PM
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I want to remount my scope using correct specs on torque for all scope rings and also make sure my gun is level and scope is level. I'm pretty sure I have it dang close but not perfect. Either I want to buy a gun vise and level kit or have a really good gun smith do it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I've never lapped a scope before btw. Was just looking at a wheeler scope mounting kit and a Tipton best gun vise to start
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Tag for more info on this. Also what kind of rings and mounts do you guys recommend for a hunting rifle ? Like Leupold, Talley, Dnz, Picatinny or ?
Thanks for any info on this subject.
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I lap with JB weld and brownells release agent. Seems to work pretty good, but you have to wait about 24 hrs before moving the scope in the rings.
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Tag for more info on this. Also what kind of rings and mounts do you guys recommend for a hunting rifle ? Like Leupold, Talley, Dnz, Picatinny or ?
Thanks for any info on this subject.
I have the talley lightweight rings for my Kimber and they grab the scope like crazy when you start tightening them even just a little bit. Never have to adjust the scope with them it stays on point, but for longer range i want to make sure my scope is level with my gun
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I have the exact mounting kit and gun vise you are looking at, they will work just fine for the amount you will use them. I like Talley rings as they are one piece with less to fail, they are also light.
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Try hunt-wa member "3584ELK"
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=20106
He's in Algona so pretty close to you.
His website:
https://cardinalguns.com/services/
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I currently have the Picatinny Rails on 2 Rem. 700 and loading and unloading the rails just get in the way at times so I am looking for other options. I will check with Cardinal Guns.
Thanks for the info
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I have the exact mounting kit and gun vise you are looking at, they will work just fine for the amount you will use them. I like Talley rings as they are one piece with less to fail, they are also light.
Did you use the lapping kit of just call it good with how they come? In your opinion do the talley rings need to be lapped even? How do the levels work with the gun? I think I torqued my scope rings down to tight last time but I'm not sure really. I felt it kind of give a little at the end of torquing and i was wondering if I might have stripped the aluminum because the screws are steel. Might just buy new ones
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I recommend getting a tool like this:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts)
You can tighten screws to the proper torque setting without stripping them from overtightening. When set to the proper tightness I have never had a screw work loose.
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Try hunt-wa member "3584ELK"
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php?action=profile;u=20106
He's in Algona so pretty close to you.
His website:
https://cardinalguns.com/services/
Thanks for the info!
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I recommend getting a tool like this:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts)
You can tighten screws to the proper torque setting without stripping them from overtightening. When set to the proper tightness I have never had a screw work loose.
That exact wrench is in the kit I was looking at! What do you set the torque to on scope rings usually?
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The manufacturer of your rings will give you the recommended torque specs. It should be on their website.
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I recommend getting a tool like this:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts)
You can tighten screws to the proper torque setting without stripping them from overtightening. When set to the proper tightness I have never had a screw work loose.
That exact wrench is in the kit I was looking at! What do you set the torque to on scope rings usually?
Bobcat is right; each company is a little different but usually around 18 to 25 pounds. It's a nice feeling to know you will tighten them correctly, but not overtighten them. I stripped quite a few screws before getting it.
Here's an example. Warne recommends 25 pounds.
http://warnescopemounts.com/do-i-need-threadlocker/ (http://warnescopemounts.com/do-i-need-threadlocker/)
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whooo,,,that would be 25 in lbs, 25in/lb.....not foot lbs..that torque would strip my ex :chuckle:
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18 in/lbs is perfect for all scope rings, including magnums in my opinion. As for your original question, buy the Tipton vise, and the complete Wheeler scope mounting kit they make these days. You'll have everything you need for the rest of your life on mounting scopes. I've pieced this together over the years and am in it a lot more money wise than those 2 items.
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I recommend getting a tool like this:
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts (http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Torque-Fat-Wrench/731992.uts)
You can tighten screws to the proper torque setting without stripping them from overtightening. When set to the proper tightness I have never had a screw work loose.
:yeah: not too mention you can damage your scope tube and effect accuracy by over torquing.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
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Potterfield and his son have some good YouTube videos on scope lapping and mounting, check 'em out. :twocents:
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Talley lightweight scope mounts are 25 pounds for the base and 20 for the ring part Max
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I learned about this the hard way. I tell any new gun owner that will listen about doing this because no one told me.
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Deadnutz one piece mounts do not require lapping.
I love mine.
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I always lap my rings even if its just a little bit. I use a lapping alignment kit made by kokopelli products. With their alignment bars its really easy to tell if the rings are out of alignment. The 2 pointed "alignment" bars wheeler sells are a joke. Lapping not only asures that your rings are aligned but also asures they are perfectly round. I've been using talley rings on my hunting rifles and have some seekins rings on a heavier gun. I always epoxy my bases to the reciever. With lapping you will never get ring marks on a scope as well.
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I want to remount my scope using correct specs on torque for all scope rings and also make sure my gun is level and scope is level. I'm pretty sure I have it dang close but not perfect. Either I want to buy a gun vise and level kit or have a really good gun smith do it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I've never lapped a scope before btw. Was just looking at a wheeler scope mounting kit and a Tipton best gun vise to start
How accurate is your current setup?
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I want to remount my scope using correct specs on torque for all scope rings and also make sure my gun is level and scope is level. I'm pretty sure I have it dang close but not perfect. Either I want to buy a gun vise and level kit or have a really good gun smith do it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I've never lapped a scope before btw. Was just looking at a wheeler scope mounting kit and a Tipton best gun vise to start
How accurate is your current setup?
Pretty damn accurate but I never shoot past 100 yards really but i hit bullseye on target which is probably 1.5x1.5 inch. Just want to start shooting out at 300 and stuff and know how any little thing can make the bullet hit left and right if the scope is tilted. Idk though talked to a gun smith guy earlier he said sounds fine as it is.
My range I go to only goes out to 125 yards.
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The leupold dual dovetail rings needed the lapping bar to get perfectly aligned tho they say no lapping required. In theory rings with micro grooves may lock onto thin tubed scopes better before lapping off the grooves but I prefer lapping just to ensure alignment and at least 2/3 contact,.
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Deadnutz one piece mounts do not require lapping.
I love mine.
Exactly....that's all I use except for a couple period correct mountings on older rifles. Try them, you'll like em. :tup:
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Deadnutz one piece mounts do not require lapping.
I love mine.
Exactly....that's all I use except for a couple period correct mountings on older rifles. Try them, you'll like em. :tup:
I found some for Kimber 84m. You think they are better then the talley lightweights? I like the idea of a one piece. Less room for error. I really want to get my gun perfectly level with perfectly level scope and see what it will do finally. Eye balled the lAst time I mounted it.
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I challenge anyone to conduct a scientific accuracy comparison of before/ after all this lapping minutia is performed on a hunting rig and show the difference it made in group size. Lapping quality scope rings on a hunting rifle is akin to mounting electronic fuel injection on a lawn mower. Alignment of scope rings so the scope lays fully in the lower rings is certainly worthwhile. Proper and equal torque of the ring screws is also important.
Lapping rings on a quality made varmint or benchrest rifle may pay dividends, albeit tiny.
When you have a rig made for killing an animal with a 10" vital zone, trying to eke out .2" in group size (IF you are a good enough shooter to scientifically measure it) is just silly.
If your hunting rig is throwing patterns rather than groups, there are numerous other items to try resolving that will make a difference (barrel bedding, muzzle crowning, action bedding, etc.)
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On a hunting rifle where you are not dialing the scope at all you're probably not going to notice a difference in accuracy.
You can't assume brand x of rings doesnt need lapped. They are mounted on the rifle which more so determines if they need lapped. You can have a perfect set of rings and mount them on a rifle with a not so perfect action. they may need lapped. If you dont lap or check ring alignment, you're probably putting stress on the scope and action. Stress isnt good. You also run the risk of ring marks on your socpe. With lapped rings you're also less likely to have tracking problems.
rings aren't always a perfect fit to the action/base so when you tighten them down in can bring the rings out of round.
I always epoxy my bases down, use blue loctite and lap. One less thing to worry about.
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Agree with 3584 elk. I do lap, but have not noticed any difference. I've never taken off more than half the anodizing and that is measured in ten thousandths of an inch so I can't see that making enough difference at the target to measure. Not an engineer, but lapping, I think, would make the front and back ring concentric to itself, but not necessarily the bore. Having said all that I do lap because I don't think it can hurt and I'd rather tinker with guns than watch TV.
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IMHO, lapping is more about reducing or eliminating stresses in the scope that lead to failure, rather than accuracy gains.
If I had a R700, I'd definitely lap.
No telling how screwed up the mounting holes might be.
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I have been using a quality one piece base instead.
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Scope bodies are a swaged or spun tube and therefore should be concentric. Question is how "concentric / perfect?". We're talking thenths of of a thousandth so what does it matter? Is the glass in the scope set perfectly?
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IMHO, lapping is more about reducing or eliminating stresses in the scope that lead to failure, rather than accuracy gains.
If I had a R700, I'd definitely lap.
No telling how screwed up the mounting holes might be.
:yeah:
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I have been using a quality one piece base instead.
That probably helps but it still does not mean your rings will be aligned.
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There is a law of diminishing returns in shooting as in just about everything else. Lapping is more about more evenly distributing the force/contact area of rings to scope to eliminate binding. After seeing the improvement from action bedding/free floating to eliminate binding within the gun, I figured lapping probably couldn't subtract from accuracy. But after bedding, using higher QA handloads, some trigger work...there's not much noticeable room for lapping to work with for chasing a smaller group.