Post by: Buckmark on December 30, 2016, 04:55:41 PM
Have a line on a BX25 with loader, rototiller, Backhoe and bucket forks with only 4hrs on it for a good price, or a B2320 with loader and midmount 60 inch mower. I would add a midmount mower for the BX.
Use would be on my small acreage here which is mowing (lawn) some tree clearing, landscaping in the trees and landscape rock. Then also using it east at my place moving dirt, trees, old stumps, grading, moving various loads of gravel etc.
Post by: HardCorpsHuntr on December 30, 2016, 05:16:29 PM
Oh, if you buy one don't let anyone know as you will become everyones best friend 8)
Kubota :tup:
Post by: Happy Gilmore on December 30, 2016, 08:23:31 PM
Post by: Shrimper on December 31, 2016, 09:44:20 AM
The bucket forks are the accessory I have used most. The only thing I would say is if you have an option to upgrade to a larger model go for it you wont be disappointed.
Post by: Fishstiq on December 31, 2016, 09:50:27 AM
Thinking of adding a BX25 or a B series to my toy box and was wondering if anyone had experience with either, good or bad
Have a line on a BX25 with loader, rototiller, Backhoe and bucket forks with only 4hrs on it for a good price, or a B2320 with loader and midmount 60 inch mower. I would add a midmount mower for the BX.
Use would be on my small acreage here which is mowing (lawn) some tree clearing, landscaping in the trees and landscape rock. Then also using it east at my place moving dirt, trees, old stumps, grading, moving various loads of gravel etc.
I have a BX25, and a very good friend of mine has a B series. I've used both machines plenty, so here's my input FWIW. I don't really look at the two machines themselves, because they are both very capable. I look more at the attachments for each tractor, since they do all the work, and how they compare to one another.
1. Mid Mount Mower. The BX is easily the winner here, and here's why. The MMM is made for cutting grass and lawns, not pastures. ( If you want to cut pasture, get a brush hog.) Now imagine the tires and the weight of a B series, and what they would do to a lawn mowing once a week all spring and summer.... It's gonna look like a giant pig rut by the end of the season. I use my BX and the 60 MMM in my yard, and i still have to be aware to mow in different directions every week to avoid ruts and holes forming. With a B series, your yard wouldn't have a prayer.
2. Rototiller. Assuming it is the correct size for the tractor it is mounted to, this is a wash. If you are tilling a large backyard garden, I would say the BX is going to be the better choice. Again, the BX will have less impact to and from your garden area, and will also be much more maneuverable in most "backyard" areas (around fences and trees and such). If you are tilling a bigger area, like a huge garden or pasture sized area, the B series would be a better choice. Bigger machine, wider tiller, get the job done more efficiently. Also, a taller machine with more weight and more aggressive tires is less likely to have problems getting stuck in a larger "farm" type area.
3. Front end loader. Almost no difference here. Their rated lift capacity is only 27lbs difference.
3A. Bucket forks. I have them, so please, learn from my experience here! They are good for moving a few hay bales or a couple empty pallets, and that's about it. You loose lift capacity exponentially the further forward of the bucket you go. Also, whatever you are lifting gains leverage on you big time. Lift a little too high, put a tire in a small hole, and over you go before you know it. If you really want pallet forks, get (or build :tup:) some that fit your 3 point. They are cheap, stable, quick and easy to attach, and just stupid strong. I'll try to attach some pictures of mine. *Edit- couldn't get pictures to post here, sorry :dunno:.
4. Backhoe. The B wins here, no question. Where the BX's backhoe sometimes bogs a little or strains to lift/rip, the B powers through without missing a beat. I have done a lot of trenching with my BX, and it does a great job for me. I dug 270 feet of trench 2 1/2-3 feet deep in a day and a half with my bx, and that was in some terrible ground full of tree roots and rock. With the B series though, that job would have been done in a day. This is one area where they really feel like 2 completely different machines.
As for the jobs you mentioned... Grading, BX wins. It's just a lower impact machine, so it doesn't tear stuff up as much while you are trying to get a level grade and remove holes/ruts and so forth. Tree clearing, either tractor is capable, you're going to have to cut the trees to manageable size lengths either way. Landscaping, BX wins all day long. Moving dirt/gravel, again, the front end loaders are the same size and have a 27 pound difference in lift capacity, so no difference there. Removing old stumps, B series. Bigger and heavier, more aggressive tires, more horsepower, so it will drag those stumps better than a BX will for sure.
Overall it really depends on what you'll be doing most of over the life of the machine. If there's a few big jobs to do, but over time it will be mostly maintenance (mowing, grading, filling holes, moving gravel...) then the lighter tractor fits the bill better. If you'll be tilling a field and haying 4X every summer and stuff like that, the bigger tractor will handle it better.
So, there's my long winded two cents worth :chuckle:. Just for your own reference, here's the complete specs on the B2320...
http://www.kubota.com/product/B2320/pdf/b_series_spec.pdf
...and the BX25...
http://www.tractordata.com/backhoe-loader/000/0/8/89-kubota-bx25-attachments.html
Post by: Buckmark on February 24, 2017, 10:25:07 AM
Going with the BX25D :tup:
Post by: Fishstiq on February 24, 2017, 10:47:04 AM
Post by: Special T on February 24, 2017, 10:53:35 AM
We don't have one but I'd go for 3point forks if I was moving something heavy over distance like a pallet of brick pavers or something.
Now that your country living with a tractor subscribe to the "farm show" magazine. All kinds of great redneck engineering in that thing.
Post by: Fishstiq on February 24, 2017, 11:08:08 AM
I want to expand on one point fishstiq touched on. Pallet forks. My father has a JD4010 that is a small tractor. The clamp on bucket forks are worthless. You can pick and move 200lbs ish. For the same kind of $ spent you can easily male a set theater replaces the bucket. Most have some kind of quick disconnect. On the ones we made the forks were adjustable, removable, had a headache rack and all made out of square tubing. We also installed a trailer ball on it. You wouldn't belive how valuable that is moving around empty trailers, a lift point etc.
We don't have one but I'd go for 3point forks if I was moving something heavy over distance like a pallet of brick pavers or something.
Now that your country living with a tractor subscribe to the "farm show" magazine. All kinds of great redneck engineering in that thing.
I couldn't agree more. I have pictures of what the max the bucket forks would lift is vs the 3 point forks, and its absurd. 3 point is the only way to go.
Post by: Special T on February 24, 2017, 11:14:07 AM
Post by: Happy Gilmore on February 27, 2017, 12:27:34 PM
Post by: Fishstiq on March 26, 2017, 08:08:51 PM
With the clamp on bucket forks, this is how much the bx25 will lift, and it would not lift this any higher than you see in the picture.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170327/a8dc403b0b80209a98fd6d493f0ec8df.jpg)
The three point forks? These are some firewood riks I made, and it will lift them all the way and tote them around no worries.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170327/084afbb2dadfd0c168d4f1a26aaf1801.jpg)
Not saying the bucket mount forks don't have their uses; I like them for a lot of stuff. But lift capacity and safety for heavy loads? There's no comparison.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 26, 2017, 11:26:22 PM
Post by: Special T on March 26, 2017, 11:28:53 PM
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 28, 2017, 06:57:31 AM
I prefer a cement block with a trailer ball attached to it. More useful that way.
I do too but way to lazy to take them on and off 😊
Post by: Knocker of rocks on March 28, 2017, 08:10:59 AM
Post by: NRA4LIFE on March 28, 2017, 08:22:32 AM
Post by: Buckmark on March 28, 2017, 09:05:49 AM
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 28, 2017, 11:28:52 PM
A three-point backhoe is almost universally cautioned against because of the stress it puts on the 3ph, the bell housing and the transmission.
Not being rude but, those are more of a lawn mower than a tractor in that small size. Plenty useful but not made for heavy work with a mower deck under your feet
Post by: Fishstiq on March 29, 2017, 07:42:20 AM
A three-point backhoe is almost universally cautioned against because of the stress it puts on the 3ph, the bell housing and the transmission.
Not being rude but, those are more of a lawn mower than a tractor in that small size. Plenty useful but not made for heavy work with a mower deck under your feet
I'm kinda confused by all this. I've never seen a 3 point backhoe...? I have a backhoe for my bx, but it mounts to the frame directly and has noting to do with the 3pt. Also hydraulic, so no bell housing or transmission stress.
Is there a backhoe that mounts to a 3 point? I can't really picture how that would work. Power from the rear pto or something...?
Post by: Knocker of rocks on March 29, 2017, 08:41:05 AM
I'm kinda confused by all this. I've never seen a 3 point backhoe...? I have a backhoe for my bx, but it mounts to the frame directly and has noting to do with the 3pt. Also hydraulic, so no bell housing or transmission stress.
Is there a backhoe that mounts to a 3 point? I can't really picture how that would work. Power from the rear pto or something...?
There's many Three-point backhoes. Most of the third-party manufacturers make backhoes which can be sub-frame mounted or hang off the 3PH.
http://www.woodsequipment.com/files/Products/Literature/B031501_BH65-75_INTRO_BROCHURE.pdf
The danger to a standard medium duty compact or sub compact tractor with a 3PH back hoe happens when you get working and are tossing the rear end of the tractor around. Most tractors don't have a frame, so the block and bell housing are structural. Start working it in a fashion it really wasn't designed for and a broken bell housing or split tractor can result. That's why sub frames are commonly used, and why tractor-loader-backhoes use a full frame.
The source of hydraulics is a seperate issue. The factory installed pump can be used, normally from the power beyond port. Some backhoes and manufacturers use the PTO because the factory hydraulics isn't sized for a backhoe.
A three-point backhoe is almost universally cautioned against because of the stress it puts on the 3ph, the bell housing and the transmission.
Not being rude but, those are more of a lawn mower than a tractor in that small size. Plenty useful but not made for heavy work with a mower deck under your feet
I'm not really aware of the machine we were talking about, just making points in a general sense. I would guess that in any case a sub frame is a good idea.
Post by: Fishstiq on March 29, 2017, 12:00:27 PM
Learned something new today!
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 30, 2017, 01:03:34 PM
Huh, that seems like an odd way of doing things to me. I've never seen that before, but I get how that wouldn't be a great idea.
Learned something new today!
Orchard tractors commonly use 3 point forks to move apple bins around. Mainly old ones to get boxes from where forklifts can't go to loading areas. Of course, kind of old school. Most now use self loading trailers behind tractors which can pick the boxes. Tall rigs obviously can't go into orchards without damaging trees.
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 30, 2017, 01:06:21 PM