Post by: Bean Counter on January 09, 2017, 09:36:10 PM
thank.
Post by: Dan-o on January 09, 2017, 10:09:01 PM
Post by: Magnum_Willys on January 09, 2017, 10:10:29 PM
75w-90w is the same as 90w as soon as it warms to operating temp.
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"Q23. What kind of oil should be used with an Auburn limited-slip differential/ Auburn ECTED Max differential?
A23. Non-synthetic 80w90 GL-5 oil treated with Auburn Gear friction additive, part #504102 (also known as a friction modifier). See Catalog page 32. Three (3) ounces of additive will treat one quart of oil. GM or Ford limited-slip additive may be used. We do not recommend synthetic oil. Auburn limited-slip additive is packed in every box with the differential."
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Post by: Bean Counter on January 10, 2017, 06:14:46 AM
I'm doing some research and starting to remember things from a few years ago when I last did this and stuff sounds vaguely familiar. According to my back-of-the-napkin maintenance records I used the same gear oil all around and didn't add the friction modifier to the differential. I haven't had any problems in my Tundra in the last few years. Maybe its for people who tow?
Post by: Woodchuck on January 10, 2017, 06:39:01 AM
Synthetic in engines and transfer case is good. Stay away from synthetics in differentials. Mfg's and racers will tell you this. Synthetic just does not cling or cushion like you need in differentials.Um, I run synthetic in the race car in EVERYTHING. Well except for the water in the radiator :chuckle:. We break in with conventional and after that it goes synthetic. :twocents:
75w-90w is the same as 90w as soon as it warms to operating temp.
----------------------
"Q23. What kind of oil should be used with an Auburn limited-slip differential/ Auburn ECTED Max differential?
A23. Non-synthetic 80w90 GL-5 oil treated with Auburn Gear friction additive, part #504102 (also known as a friction modifier). See Catalog page 32. Three (3) ounces of additive will treat one quart of oil. GM or Ford limited-slip additive may be used. We do not recommend synthetic oil. Auburn limited-slip additive is packed in every box with the differential."
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I highly suggest using the manufacturer's spec. Some pretty smart people put that out there for a reason, even if we don't know what that reason is.
Post by: jackelope on January 10, 2017, 07:46:44 AM
Post by: Bean Counter on January 10, 2017, 08:28:53 AM
Um, I run synthetic in the race car in EVERYTHING. Well except for the water in the radiator :chuckle:. We break in with conventional and after that it goes synthetic. :twocents:
I highly suggest using the manufacturer's spec. Some pretty smart people put that out there for a reason, even if we don't know what that reason is.
Well fine then. I'll use the 80w90. But, they also say to use conventional, not synthetic. :dunno:
Post by: Woodchuck on January 10, 2017, 08:40:11 AM
That would be the route I suggest.Um, I run synthetic in the race car in EVERYTHING. Well except for the water in the radiator :chuckle:. We break in with conventional and after that it goes synthetic. :twocents:
I highly suggest using the manufacturer's spec. Some pretty smart people put that out there for a reason, even if we don't know what that reason is.
Well fine then. I'll use the 80w90. But, they also say to use conventional, not synthetic. :dunno:
Post by: thinkingman on January 10, 2017, 08:48:53 AM
Synthetic in engines and transfer case is good. Stay away from synthetics in differentials. Mfg's and racers will tell you this. Synthetic just does not cling or cushion like you need in differentials.Good advice here.
75w-90w is the same as 90w as soon as it warms to operating temp.
----------------------
"Q23. What kind of oil should be used with an Auburn limited-slip differential/ Auburn ECTED Max differential?
A23. Non-synthetic 80w90 GL-5 oil treated with Auburn Gear friction additive, part #504102 (also known as a friction modifier). See Catalog page 32. Three (3) ounces of additive will treat one quart of oil. GM or Ford limited-slip additive may be used. We do not recommend synthetic oil. Auburn limited-slip additive is packed in every box with the differential."
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Use dino oil and buy the TOYOTA friction modifier.
Post by: Woodchuck on January 10, 2017, 08:52:55 AM
Just like the manufacturer of that part suggests. :tup:Synthetic in engines and transfer case is good. Stay away from synthetics in differentials. Mfg's and racers will tell you this. Synthetic just does not cling or cushion like you need in differentials.Good advice here.
75w-90w is the same as 90w as soon as it warms to operating temp.
----------------------
"Q23. What kind of oil should be used with an Auburn limited-slip differential/ Auburn ECTED Max differential?
A23. Non-synthetic 80w90 GL-5 oil treated with Auburn Gear friction additive, part #504102 (also known as a friction modifier). See Catalog page 32. Three (3) ounces of additive will treat one quart of oil. GM or Ford limited-slip additive may be used. We do not recommend synthetic oil. Auburn limited-slip additive is packed in every box with the differential."
---------------------------
Use dino oil and buy the TOYOTA friction modifier.
Post by: jackelope on January 10, 2017, 08:58:14 AM
Just like the manufacturer of that part suggests. :tup:Synthetic in engines and transfer case is good. Stay away from synthetics in differentials. Mfg's and racers will tell you this. Synthetic just does not cling or cushion like you need in differentials.Good advice here.
75w-90w is the same as 90w as soon as it warms to operating temp.
----------------------
"Q23. What kind of oil should be used with an Auburn limited-slip differential/ Auburn ECTED Max differential?
A23. Non-synthetic 80w90 GL-5 oil treated with Auburn Gear friction additive, part #504102 (also known as a friction modifier). See Catalog page 32. Three (3) ounces of additive will treat one quart of oil. GM or Ford limited-slip additive may be used. We do not recommend synthetic oil. Auburn limited-slip additive is packed in every box with the differential."
---------------------------
Use dino oil and buy the TOYOTA friction modifier.
Post by: Bean Counter on January 10, 2017, 09:54:33 AM
The rocket scientists and brain surgeons that wrote the owners manual don't have the torque specs in there. But, there's instructions on how to lock the doors. :rolleyes: Time to call Toyota.
Post by: jackelope on January 10, 2017, 10:23:11 AM
Thanks hive mind. Trad gear oil it is.
The rocket scientists and brain surgeons that wrote the owners manual don't have the torque specs in there. But, there's instructions on how to lock the doors. :rolleyes: Time to call Toyota.
You need a service manual, not an owner's manual. Google is your friend.
Post by: jackelope on January 10, 2017, 10:25:23 AM
I used my mad rocket science skills to find them online.
Post by: Bofire on January 10, 2017, 10:58:26 AM
Carl
Post by: Bean Counter on January 10, 2017, 01:43:40 PM
What do you need?
I used my mad rocket science skills to find them online.
1st gen Tundra and/or Sequoia. Need to do both. is that what you posted?
Thanks!!!
Post by: jackelope on January 10, 2017, 02:12:29 PM
What do you need?
I used my mad rocket science skills to find them online.
1st gen Tundra and/or Sequoia. Need to do both. is that what you posted?
Thanks!!!
That was for a 2003 Tundra. Honestly I don't know what gen is what.
Post by: Bean Counter on January 10, 2017, 06:31:22 PM
Close eyes + slam trigger! :hunt2:
Post by: thinkingman on January 11, 2017, 01:27:54 PM
20 minutes start to finish.
Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL4 seems to be exactly what it wanted.
Post by: Jason on January 11, 2017, 02:15:19 PM
Post by: jackelope on January 11, 2017, 04:45:01 PM
A week ago I changed the engine oil in my 02 Tundra and accidentally put in 5w20 instead of 5w30, so before I ran up and picked up the right weight oil I called and talked to a tech at my local Toyota dealership and he said I was fine running the lighter oil in the winter..hope this true?
Manufacturer doesn't specify that that is acceptable, but I imagine you're ok, especially in the cold weather.
I wouldn't do it in the summer time/hot weather.
Post by: syoungs on January 11, 2017, 06:30:43 PM
I try to stick to manufacturers guidelines on fluids, race cars might run synthetic in everything, but even running as hard as they do, they don't run as long between rebuilds ( least none of them that I know do)
Post by: Bean Counter on January 11, 2017, 07:28:05 PM
Post by: syoungs on January 11, 2017, 07:35:44 PM
I know a lot of people say not to change to synthetic if it'd high mileage, cause it'll cause leaks, which I don't buy. If the seals are in good shape, they won't leak. Seals not leaking much, will leak more with synthetic though.
Post by: Bean Counter on January 11, 2017, 07:37:12 PM
Post by: syoungs on January 11, 2017, 08:17:04 PM
Post by: Rick on January 11, 2017, 09:01:17 PM
Post by: Rick on January 11, 2017, 09:05:51 PM
A week ago I changed the engine oil in my 02 Tundra and accidentally put in 5w20 instead of 5w30, so before I ran up and picked up the right weight oil I called and talked to a tech at my local Toyota dealership and he said I was fine running the lighter oil in the winter..hope this true?
You're fine. 5w-30 would likely shear down to a 5w-20 by the end of the oil change interval anyway.
I'd have zero issue running 5w-20 in the summer.
Post by: thinkingman on January 11, 2017, 09:17:09 PM
You'll be fine.
Post by: Night goat on January 13, 2017, 05:33:50 PM
might be worth researching what oils you have been using and how the recipes have changed over the years, I know that Delo switched up thier recipe with their 15-40 oil, we stopped using delo at work because it is just too dry of an oil, we switched over to a 76/conoco phillips oil. for all the emmisions regulations, oil isnt what it used to be, since most oil for diesels have gone to a low emission formula, they omit zinc, phosporus, lead, and various other lubrication compounds
gear oil on the other hand, as it is not in a crank case, hasnt changed. I would presume that the lower the opperating temperature of a part the higher the viscosity you would want, which might suggest why the lube in the front diff is thinner than the rear diff to compensate for engine heat.
in a crank case, oil needs to be thin to flow, in a cold gear box, oil needs to be thick to stick and provide static lubrication, as a differential or some gear boxes have the gears partially submerged in lube.
the lighter oil in the winter is correct because it compensates for an ambient temperature diference, and being thinner, and colder outside, it takes less to heat and flow properly, compared to using a light oil in the summer, it would be too thin to properly lubricate, whereas a heavier oil will compensate for summer temperatures and provide correct lubrication.
the US Army did a study on motor oil and concluded that motor oil does not break down or otherwise "go bad", however what makes a motor oil "go bad" is contamination with acids, fine particulate matter such as metal wear, and soot, I recently installed an oil bypass filtration system that is supposed to filter oil so finely, it extends the service interval exponentially, to the extent that the company reccomends sending in oil samlles before doing an oil change, as depending on the level of contamination at a normal service interval, it will dictate 1) what is going on in the engine, and 2) whether or not an oil change is really necessary.
oil is pretty interesting
Post by: luckyman on January 13, 2017, 07:10:38 PM
Post by: Magnum_Willys on January 13, 2017, 07:50:07 PM
I just completed my gear oil change.
20 minutes start to finish.
Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL4 seems to be exactly what it wanted.
MT-90 GL4 ??? Thats designed for manual transmissions not differentials ????
Post by: Bean Counter on January 13, 2017, 08:31:08 PM
synthetic oils and seals dont get along very well, some seals hold up, but, whenever I switched to synthetic, I started getting leaks, and when they start, they dont stop
might be worth researching what oils you have been using and how the recipes have changed over the years, I know that Delo switched up thier recipe with their 15-40 oil, we stopped using delo at work because it is just too dry of an oil, we switched over to a 76/conoco phillips oil. for all the emmisions regulations, oil isnt what it used to be, since most oil for diesels have gone to a low emission formula, they omit zinc, phosporus, lead, and various other lubrication compounds
gear oil on the other hand, as it is not in a crank case, hasnt changed. I would presume that the lower the opperating temperature of a part the higher the viscosity you would want, which might suggest why the lube in the front diff is thinner than the rear diff to compensate for engine heat.
in a crank case, oil needs to be thin to flow, in a cold gear box, oil needs to be thick to stick and provide static lubrication, as a differential or some gear boxes have the gears partially submerged in lube.
the lighter oil in the winter is correct because it compensates for an ambient temperature diference, and being thinner, and colder outside, it takes less to heat and flow properly, compared to using a light oil in the summer, it would be too thin to properly lubricate, whereas a heavier oil will compensate for summer temperatures and provide correct lubrication.
the US Army did a study on motor oil and concluded that motor oil does not break down or otherwise "go bad", however what makes a motor oil "go bad" is contamination with acids, fine particulate matter such as metal wear, and soot, I recently installed an oil bypass filtration system that is supposed to filter oil so finely, it extends the service interval exponentially, to the extent that the company reccomends sending in oil samlles before doing an oil change, as depending on the level of contamination at a normal service interval, it will dictate 1) what is going on in the engine, and 2) whether or not an oil change is really necessary.
oil is pretty interesting
Night Goat The Oil Man! :tup:
Post by: shadowless_nite on January 13, 2017, 09:07:30 PM
I work on toyotas for a living and this is getting waaaayyyy over thought. Someone let me know when they seen a toyota differential fail because they put 80/90/75w90/80w90 no friction modifier(non lsd) etc etc. Rarely do the toyota diffs go out and if by chance they do it's almost always from neglect or getting beat on wheeling. The ones that go out just because.... Well it happens about as frequent as any other bad stroke of luck.
Post by: thinkingman on January 14, 2017, 07:38:02 AM
I just completed my gear oil change.
20 minutes start to finish.
Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL4 seems to be exactly what it wanted.
MT-90 GL4 ??? Thats designed for manual transmissions not differentials ????
Correct
I had run the same gear lube in my box as the diffs and transfer case.
There had always been stiffness in really cold environments until it built some heat.
This stuff is dramatically better and the syncros are so much happier. Shifting is completely different even on startup in 20 degree temps.