Post by: andersonjk4 on March 23, 2017, 08:45:08 PM
Everything has been normal until I got in after work tonight and it won't start. It cranks over normal, but doesn't even try to fire. No warning lights on the dash and security light is normal. Now I'm stuck downtown Spokane until my ride gets here. Any thoughts?
Post by: chester on March 23, 2017, 09:12:00 PM
Post by: predatorpro on March 23, 2017, 09:22:50 PM
Post by: Limhangerslayer on March 23, 2017, 09:26:44 PM
Fuel pump?:yeah: try beating on the bottom of the tank and see if it will fire. Does it have fuel in the talk :dunno: :chuckle:?
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 23, 2017, 09:27:20 PM
Post by: jackelope on March 23, 2017, 09:29:45 PM
Cam sensors are not common problems on them.
Post by: hunter399 on March 23, 2017, 09:42:21 PM
Post by: JimmyHoffa on March 23, 2017, 09:45:17 PM
Post by: elkaholic123 on March 23, 2017, 09:58:16 PM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 23, 2017, 10:19:37 PM
Post by: j_h_nimrod on March 23, 2017, 10:52:13 PM
Post by: BDildine on March 23, 2017, 11:28:26 PM
Post by: usmc74 on March 24, 2017, 05:54:06 AM
Good luck
Post by: RadSav on March 24, 2017, 06:01:52 AM
If it's real low on fuel and not parked on level ground😉Happened to me recently
Low fuel + nose down has caught me a few times at my folks place with their sloped driveway. Have also had rollover fuel shutoff valve/switch go bad. Never had an in-tank pump go bad without warning.
Post by: usmc74 on March 24, 2017, 06:04:58 AM
Post by: whacker1 on March 24, 2017, 06:06:43 AM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 24, 2017, 06:12:10 AM
Post by: Dhoey07 on March 24, 2017, 06:38:10 AM
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 24, 2017, 06:44:29 AM
Fuel pump is more likely. A lot of times, as mentioned, you can beat on the tank jarring the pump into working. Same concept as hitting a starter with a hammer.
Cam sensors are not common problems on them.
From the 98-2000 model probably got it fixed. Had mine squat out twice.
Post by: baldopepper on March 24, 2017, 06:48:04 AM
Post by: jackelope on March 24, 2017, 07:11:00 AM
^^like nimrod said,'easy test to see if you have pressure. Looks like a tire Schrader valve on fuel rail
There's a fine line between pressure and "enough" pressure. If spec is 40-50psi and you only have 25, it won't start. It would be a way to know if the pump was working at all, yes. When you turn the key on, you should be able to hear the pump run for like 3 seconds. Without a crank signal after that period(engine is running), the pump will lose power.
Post by: jackelope on March 24, 2017, 07:12:13 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on March 24, 2017, 07:21:32 AM
Key on, engine off 240 - 310 kPa ( 35 - 45 psi )
Engine running 193 - 310 kPa ( 28 - 45 psi )
Post by: syoungs on March 24, 2017, 08:24:31 AM
Post by: BULLBLASTER on March 24, 2017, 09:01:11 AM
2007 Ford F-150 with 5.4.Feel free to give me a shout if you need a hand with it at all.
Everything has been normal until I got in after work tonight and it won't start. It cranks over normal, but doesn't even try to fire. No warning lights on the dash and security light is normal. Now I'm stuck downtown Spokane until my ride gets here. Any thoughts?
Hope it's something easy.
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 24, 2017, 04:32:44 PM
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 24, 2017, 10:10:39 PM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 25, 2017, 06:16:36 AM
I think you can rent a code reader from Napa.My brother in law brought his code reader over yesterday. It's not showing any codes. I forgot to add that.
Post by: jackelope on March 25, 2017, 06:17:51 AM
Post by: Barbarossa13 on March 25, 2017, 07:36:05 AM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 25, 2017, 11:06:59 AM
Post by: syoungs on March 25, 2017, 11:13:40 AM
Did you look into the fpdm? Only takes about 10 minutes to check it. Lots of problems with them corroding out on the backside.
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 25, 2017, 11:26:17 AM
You will need a code reader that can read live data to check fuel pressure easily, or rig a gauge off the fuel filter. It shouldn't be making those sounds.I just read up on the FPDM issues and am going to go out and check it right now. Is there any for sure way of telling it is bad without replacing it?
Did you look into the fpdm? Only takes about 10 minutes to check it. Lots of problems with them corroding out on the backside.
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 25, 2017, 12:04:05 PM
Post by: jackelope on March 25, 2017, 12:48:54 PM
Did you try a shot of gas down the throttle body to see if it is even a fuel issue? Some starting fluid would work as well. Just a little bit. I suspect it's a fuel pump only because of the commonality of them going bad. Just curious though. The FPDM issues should set a fault code.
I agree the pump shouldn't be making those noises.
Post by: Happy Gilmore on March 25, 2017, 01:23:46 PM
Fuel pump won't usually set codes.
Is there a tech who doesn't plug a car in first anymore?
Post by: jackelope on March 25, 2017, 01:32:52 PM
Fuel pump won't usually set codes.
Is there a tech who doesn't plug a car in first anymore?
Not really. Pretty much step 2 of the diagnostic procedure.
Post by: syoungs on March 25, 2017, 03:20:26 PM
I just pulled the FPDM off and it looks slightly corroded but not bad. I still am going to have my wife pick a new one up in town just to check it.
If you wanna wait a couple days I'll send you my spare, so you don't have to purchase one. Usually they are pretty obviously shot, like holes in them and such, but it's possible for the mosfrt controllers to go out, just rare.
Post by: biggfish on March 25, 2017, 06:19:35 PM
Sent from my LG-K425 using Tapatalk
Post by: hunter399 on March 25, 2017, 07:24:19 PM
Fuel,spark,air,back to the basics
That's what I said on page 1, now I'm quoted myself :chuckle:
If you have spark , then I'm also saying fuel pump,the sounds your saying it makes doesn't sound good.Dropping the gas tank is not fun,but easy after you have done it a few times,You can also check your wires going to fuel pump ,make sure it's got a good ground,and all plugged in with good connection no bare wire nothing like that.
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 25, 2017, 09:42:49 PM
Post by: syoungs on March 25, 2017, 10:37:10 PM
Post by: shadowless_nite on March 25, 2017, 11:21:44 PM
I drove my 06 ram 1500 home after work 2 miles away. Grabbed the kids and was back out the door in 10min of parking. Jump in and no start! Nothing, no smell of fuel and missing. First attempt started for a second then died and then just cranked... sounds just like your situation. Had fuel in the tank and was nose up even so I know I was safe from that....
Turns out the key immobilizer decided to die in the remote and loose it's memory. The key would still lock/unlock the doors and turn on all truck functions in the key ON position but just crank for days. Without the immobilizer signal it would cut fuel as a anti theft and wouldn't let it start. I know early 2000s was the dawn of immobilizer systems but I'm not a domestics guy and only know toyotas and Hondas and they've done the same.
If you have a immobilizer key I would try a spare and see what happens. It's not uncommon in today's car problems and it's symptoms are as you describe
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 26, 2017, 06:24:02 AM
Post by: jackelope on March 26, 2017, 08:27:35 AM
Post by: Special T on March 26, 2017, 08:40:00 AM
I would follow Jackolopes advice and squirt a little fuel or ether.
Btw it is much easier to change that tank with only 5 gal or empty and perhaps needs a good cleaning.
Post by: Kittman on March 26, 2017, 09:12:45 AM
I replaced the key switch and my crank and no-start problem went away.
Post by: JimmyHoffa on March 26, 2017, 09:16:39 AM
It's an 07 but you haven told us how many miles are on it.When I've done fuel pumps on pick ups, pulling the bed off was the easier method in some respects.
I would follow Jackolopes advice and squirt a little fuel or ether.
Btw it is much easier to change that tank with only 5 gal or empty and perhaps needs a good cleaning.
Post by: Kittman on March 26, 2017, 09:21:11 AM
Post by: Special T on March 26, 2017, 10:00:15 AM
The old Subaru wagons had a fuel pump access hatch.It's an 07 but you haven told us how many miles are on it.When I've done fuel pumps on pick ups, pulling the bed off was the easier method in some respects.
I would follow Jackolopes advice and squirt a little fuel or ether.
Btw it is much easier to change that tank with only 5 gal or empty and perhaps needs a good cleaning.
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 26, 2017, 11:40:09 AM
I just picked up a tuner/scanner from my BIL that measures fuel rail pressure. Just resting FRP is 38-40 while key is ON. While cranking, FRP jumps to 75 and dips a little bit then settles down steady at 75. This leads me to believe now that it's not a fuel issue.
So on to spark. Removed air filter and had a buddy spray starting fluid in the air intake while cranking and nothing. Not even a hint of firing. So now I'm thinking its a no spark issue. What would cause no spark and still not throw any codes? I've been checking any and all fuses and relays related to the PCM and ingnition. But haven't found anything.
Post by: Redbeard on March 26, 2017, 11:41:31 AM
Post by: j_h_nimrod on March 26, 2017, 11:49:56 AM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 26, 2017, 11:55:17 AM
Post by: j_h_nimrod on March 26, 2017, 12:10:48 PM
Maybe your fuse is too small, just replace it with the next size up** until it quits blowing :chuckle:
**The above is a joke and should never be attempted :bdid: . Replacing a fuse with a higher amperage fuse is never recommended and can lead to serious injury, death, fire, or mechanical damage. The author accepts no liability if your dumb @$$ attempts this and causes serious injury, death, fire, mechanical damage, or any other bad outcomes.
Post by: RadSav on March 26, 2017, 12:23:05 PM
I just found a blown fuse for the shift solenoid, CMS #12 and #22, ignition coils. I replaced the fuse tried to start it and the replacement fuse instantly blew. So this should have narrowed down the problem, now to figure out where the short is.
Had that issue on my last Dodge. I'd move a few things and it would fix itself. Then get on the road for a long trip and it would go again. Finally broke down and took it to a shop to see if they could track it. Ended up being one of the exhaust sensors had gone bad.
Post by: syoungs on March 26, 2017, 04:18:13 PM
Post by: fish vacuum on March 26, 2017, 04:27:44 PM
What would cause no spark and still not throw any codes?
Electrical tape over the check engine light.
Post by: hunter399 on March 26, 2017, 05:13:50 PM
Post by: jackelope on March 26, 2017, 07:26:05 PM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 26, 2017, 09:55:57 PM
Unplug all your coils and try and start it. Obviously it won't start, but see if the fuse blows. If it doesn't, maybe you have a bad coil. Maybe you could plug them in one at a time and try it to see if the fuse blows. If it does on a specific coil, that would lead me to believe you have high resistance on a coil.
This is my plan as soon as I get more 15A fuses tomorrow.
Post by: cooltimber on March 26, 2017, 11:16:55 PM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 28, 2017, 05:41:25 AM
Post by: RadSav on March 28, 2017, 06:03:56 AM
Post by: andersonjk4 on March 28, 2017, 06:35:34 AM
Test her on a wet bumpy gravel road BEFORE hunting season in an area with good cell coverage. And preferably without your 5th wheel hitched up - DOH!! :chuckle: :chuckle:
:chuckle:
Roger that. I'm going to do lots of testing before I even drive it into town let alone risk a hunting trip.