Post by: Macs B on April 04, 2017, 08:23:26 AM
Post by: C-Money on April 04, 2017, 08:35:16 AM
Post by: baker5150 on April 04, 2017, 08:36:03 AM
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Post by: jackelope on April 04, 2017, 08:51:13 AM
With that said, I think the 5.9L Cummins engine or the 2005-2006 Duramax are probably the best recent engine leaving all mods, etc out of the equation. I wouldn't buy an un-modified 6.0L unless you stash $5-6k under your mattress to modify it when it breaks. I think that if the 6.0L is deleted/bulletproof'd/etc it is up there among the best of the best.
:twocents:
The problems with 5.9's and 6.0's and the 05-06 D-max is that they're all 10 or more years old now and the trucks will have 10+ years of use/abuse on them now, so finding a good one will be difficult.
Post by: C-Money on April 04, 2017, 08:58:58 AM
I actually own a V-10 Ford in a dually. I think it is a stronger engine than my 7.3 Powerstroke, but the V-10 is a lot less fuel efficient. Did you ever run any of the popular diesels manufactured between 2000-2017?
We have some Chevey Duramax 1 tons at work that were made into type 6 wildland engines. They run well, never had an issue that I recall. The 6.0 Ford diesel in the Ambulances were terrible. Still have a 7.3 1995 year model rescue that runs like a top, problem free. Most of our newer Ambulances, and type 6 are going back to gas. V10s in the ambulances and 6.0 gas in the type 6 engines. A friend has a 2013 Dodge with the Cummins and it has been great for their family. Lots of options out there, hope you find the vehicle you are looking for!
Post by: spoonman on April 04, 2017, 09:16:48 AM
Post by: Bluemoon on April 04, 2017, 09:19:22 AM
Post by: jackelope on April 04, 2017, 10:09:29 AM
I have owned a 2002 7.3 powerstroke and now own a 2007 5.9 cummins. The 7.3 was a great power plant and was pretty reliable other than the cam pos sensor going out a couple times. I now have a 2007 mega cab 5.9 with 150k on it and have had zero issues so far. The power is a bit different in the 5.9 as it definitely feels to have more low end torque than the 7.3 but that's just my experience. I am getting great fuel economy out of my 5.9 and have found nothing to complain about at this point. I don't think you can go wrong with a 01 or 02 7.3 or a 06-07 5.9 cummins, both very stout power plants.
Just a heads up on these comments. Mid-model year 2007 switched to the 6.7L Cummins with all the emissions crap on it. Those things were constant problems. By all means, if you find a good '07 Ram go for it, just make sure it's the 5.9L. It's kind of become a bit of a unicorn.
Post by: Night goat on April 04, 2017, 10:31:44 AM
Only V block diesel that's worth a damn is the 3208 turbo Caterpillar, and well... 71/92 series Detroit....But I'm kicking a hornets nest by saying that...
Saw a 6.8 Deere stuffed into an 86 F-250 once.....
Maybe the newer ones are better... But... Yea what they are saying about when Cummins switched engines mid 07.... That was the last of the good ones. Older is better, can't speak for the super new stuff, but, way too much emmisions crap on the new trucks...
Post by: huntnphool on April 04, 2017, 10:52:23 AM
Post by: mikeybuck on April 04, 2017, 10:59:24 AM
Post by: Forks on April 04, 2017, 11:34:11 AM
What is your opinion of a deleted 6.7 Cummins?I have owned a 2002 7.3 powerstroke and now own a 2007 5.9 cummins. The 7.3 was a great power plant and was pretty reliable other than the cam pos sensor going out a couple times. I now have a 2007 mega cab 5.9 with 150k on it and have had zero issues so far. The power is a bit different in the 5.9 as it definitely feels to have more low end torque than the 7.3 but that's just my experience. I am getting great fuel economy out of my 5.9 and have found nothing to complain about at this point. I don't think you can go wrong with a 01 or 02 7.3 or a 06-07 5.9 cummins, both very stout power plants.
Just a heads up on these comments. Mid-model year 2007 switched to the 6.7L Cummins with all the emissions crap on it. Those things were constant problems. By all means, if you find a good '07 Ram go for it, just make sure it's the 5.9L. It's kind of become a bit of a unicorn.
Post by: jackelope on April 04, 2017, 11:40:27 AM
What is your opinion of a deleted 6.7 Cummins?I have owned a 2002 7.3 powerstroke and now own a 2007 5.9 cummins. The 7.3 was a great power plant and was pretty reliable other than the cam pos sensor going out a couple times. I now have a 2007 mega cab 5.9 with 150k on it and have had zero issues so far. The power is a bit different in the 5.9 as it definitely feels to have more low end torque than the 7.3 but that's just my experience. I am getting great fuel economy out of my 5.9 and have found nothing to complain about at this point. I don't think you can go wrong with a 01 or 02 7.3 or a 06-07 5.9 cummins, both very stout power plants.
Just a heads up on these comments. Mid-model year 2007 switched to the 6.7L Cummins with all the emissions crap on it. Those things were constant problems. By all means, if you find a good '07 Ram go for it, just make sure it's the 5.9L. It's kind of become a bit of a unicorn.
Solid. A monster. Didn't see too many of them because we weren't legally supposed to work on them, but they're tanks.
@MuleySniper would have some long term input on that if he sees this. Not sure if he still has his, but if so, he's put an extended roadtest on it by now and I know he works his a little.
Post by: jackelope on April 04, 2017, 11:41:01 AM
Like my first gen 12 valve Cummins. Very simple easy motor to work on, easy to make power, good on fuel.
Isn't that the so called "Holy Grail" of the Cummings engine line?
0-60 in like 15, 20 minutes.
Post by: High Climber on April 04, 2017, 11:42:04 AM
From my experience...
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Duramax LBZ was 2006 and 2007 classic. The early duramax are still great but had injector issues. The LMM duramax (2007.5- 2010) is essentially the same as the LBZ just have to delete the emissions crap. Also in 2006 the Allison switched from a 5 speed to a 6 speed
Post by: bhawley76 on April 04, 2017, 12:16:59 PM
Post by: baker5150 on April 04, 2017, 12:26:43 PM
From my experience...
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Good or Bad?
These are engines I've personally used for work/play that I would recommend.
Ive had newer cummins and 6.4 liter PS that I don't recommend. Both un-modified
Post by: baker5150 on April 04, 2017, 12:32:57 PM
From my experience...
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Duramax LBZ was 2006 and 2007 classic. The early duramax are still great but had injector issues. The LMM duramax (2007.5- 2010) is essentially the same as the LBZ just have to delete the emissions crap. Also in 2006 the Allison switched from a 5 speed to a 6 speed
I thought my LBZ was an 05 but I could be wrong. It was a great truck mechanically, but Gm ccan't seam to make a paint job or interioir last more than 100k
Post by: Happy Gilmore on April 04, 2017, 01:17:58 PM
Since I bought the truck with 40k on it, I've put four sets of tires on it and $4,200 in repairs. Should be good until someday when the tranny goes out. Still shifts and drives like new so, hope it holds out a bit longer.
2002 F-350 4x4 regular cab 7.3L
Post by: Happy Gilmore on April 04, 2017, 01:25:06 PM
Our 2003 only has 120k. Just had steering link arms and a couple bushings replaced and I'm currently scheduled to try and sort out a brake problem with it. Have also replaced turbo boots due to leaks. Had about $3,000 in repairs and a few things like brakes are still an issue with pedal pressure. Oh, and a gas gauge issue that cost a $1000 to try to fix. Forgot about that one. It's going in for the gas gauge and brake next week.
Post by: Whitenuckles on April 04, 2017, 02:15:41 PM
Post by: baker5150 on April 04, 2017, 02:58:26 PM
We also have a 2002 2500 Silverado diesel and a 2003 2500 Diesel. The 2002 chev has had a transmission replaced at 200k and injectors, full brake booster, wheel bearings and links done at 240. Also had turbo leak fixed. It's at 260 now, running like a clock. Probably $10k in repairs since she bought it new.
Our 2003 only has 120k. Just had steering link arms and a couple bushings replaced and I'm currently scheduled to try and sort out a brake problem with it. Have also replaced turbo boots due to leaks. Had about $3,000 in repairs and a few things like brakes are still an issue with pedal pressure. Oh, and a gas gauge issue that cost a $1000 to try to fix. Forgot about that one. It's going in for the gas gauge and brake next week.
I had a fuel gauge issue on a 2002 6.0l gasser. Gauge would work on and off and wouldn't read properly when it did work. Dealer never could find the issue. Then the fuel pump went out around 220k, had it replaced and the gauge started working again. I assumed it was the sensor in the tank.
Post by: jackelope on April 04, 2017, 03:22:38 PM
Intermittent problems suck. If we can't reproduce them, we can't verify a failed part and 99% of the time, we won't guess/shotgun parts. If we can't fix it, customers think we're not smart enough to figure out what's wrong with their vehicle.
Post by: Happy Gilmore on April 04, 2017, 03:25:02 PM
Probably the fuel level sending unit. Part of the fuel pump module.
Intermittent problems suck. If we can't reproduce them, we can't verify a failed part and 99% of the time, we won't guess/shotgun parts. If we can't fix it, customers think we're not smart enough to figure out what's wrong with their vehicle.
They dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit. Didn't do anything but produce a big bill. Now they're going into the dash I guess and will credit the prior $1000+
Post by: jackelope on April 04, 2017, 03:26:47 PM
Probably the fuel level sending unit. Part of the fuel pump module.
Intermittent problems suck. If we can't reproduce them, we can't verify a failed part and 99% of the time, we won't guess/shotgun parts. If we can't fix it, customers think we're not smart enough to figure out what's wrong with their vehicle.
They dropped the tank and replaced the sending unit. Didn't do anything but produce a big bill. Now they're going into the dash I guess and will credit the prior $1000+
I was responding to baker5150's comments, not yours.
Sounds like someone shotgunned a part on yours. Did they reproduce the issue or did they guess? My hunch is they guessed. That's what they get for guessing.
Post by: archery288 on April 04, 2017, 03:38:02 PM
What is your opinion of a deleted 6.7 Cummins?I have owned a 2002 7.3 powerstroke and now own a 2007 5.9 cummins. The 7.3 was a great power plant and was pretty reliable other than the cam pos sensor going out a couple times. I now have a 2007 mega cab 5.9 with 150k on it and have had zero issues so far. The power is a bit different in the 5.9 as it definitely feels to have more low end torque than the 7.3 but that's just my experience. I am getting great fuel economy out of my 5.9 and have found nothing to complain about at this point. I don't think you can go wrong with a 01 or 02 7.3 or a 06-07 5.9 cummins, both very stout power plants.
Just a heads up on these comments. Mid-model year 2007 switched to the 6.7L Cummins with all the emissions crap on it. Those things were constant problems. By all means, if you find a good '07 Ram go for it, just make sure it's the 5.9L. It's kind of become a bit of a unicorn.
Solid. A monster. Didn't see too many of them because we weren't legally supposed to work on them, but they're tanks.
@MuleySniper would have some long term input on that if he sees this. Not sure if he still has his, but if so, he's put an extended roadtest on it by now and I know he works his a little.
I have a 2012 6.7 Cummins (4th gen) fully deleted to get rid of all of the emissions crap... 5" turbo back straight pipe, DPF and EGR cooler delete, Mini Maxx tuner and AFE intake. With those 6.7's and the emissions crap the MPG is horrible, especially on 37's. But after all the deletes and tuned I'll average around 19-20 on the freeway with 37's. Let alone it sounds like a log truck. Muleysniper is a buddy of mine and suggested getting a dual steering stabilizer to help save the front end with the 37's. It definitely made a difference with bump steer from hitting bumps with those big tires. A lot less wander. Hopefully that will help my ball joints. I agree with Jackelopes comment, the rest of the truck will wear out before the engine.
Post by: Happy Gilmore on April 04, 2017, 09:47:09 PM
Post by: Oh Mah on April 05, 2017, 12:02:16 AM
I got away from diesel. Been doing my pulling the last 8 years with a 2004 Ford V10, 6 speed manual. Stock trailer, camp trailer, ATV trailer, does fine for me. Been very dependable.Great truck but mine netted 7 mpg
Post by: Oh Mah on April 05, 2017, 12:10:39 AM
what should a person watch for on the 6.4 ps?From my experience...
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Good or Bad?
These are engines I've personally used for work/play that I would recommend.
Ive had newer cummins and 6.4 liter PS that I don't recommend. Both un-modified
Post by: PolarBear on April 05, 2017, 01:02:25 AM
Post by: jackelope on April 05, 2017, 07:15:15 AM
what should a person watch for on the 6.4 ps?From my experience...
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Good or Bad?
These are engines I've personally used for work/play that I would recommend.
Ive had newer cummins and 6.4 liter PS that I don't recommend. Both un-modified
EGR coolers, high pressure pumps, injectors, radiators. I've had one in the shop the guy has had the engine replaced(elsewhere) and then the exhaust manifolds replaced 3 times.
Post by: baker5150 on April 05, 2017, 07:34:29 AM
Probably the fuel level sending unit. Part of the fuel pump module.
Intermittent problems suck. If we can't reproduce them, we can't verify a failed part and 99% of the time, we won't guess/shotgun parts. If we can't fix it, customers think we're not smart enough to figure out what's wrong with their vehicle.
From what I recall they thought it was a wiring issue between the tank and the dash. We didn't think it was a big enough issue to pay a bunch of money to have them chase down a bad wire, so we just lived with it. I never thought they weren't smart enough to find the issue. This was back when Jerry Chambers owned the dealership in Bellingham. They had some really good techs back then, we did a lot of business with him before he passed.
Post by: baker5150 on April 05, 2017, 07:42:04 AM
what should a person watch for on the 6.4 ps?From my experience...
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Good or Bad?
These are engines I've personally used for work/play that I would recommend.
Ive had newer cummins and 6.4 liter PS that I don't recommend. Both un-modified
We only had 1 6.4 so not a lot of experience, but it was in the shop a lot. We had an electrical issue first that was covered by warranty, something simple but it caused a CE light to be on all the time, can't recall what the fix was.. We also had an EGR issue and had to pay for that out of pocket. We no longer have that truck, it was a nice truck, but when they switched engines again, we went away from Ford and back to GM. For fleet rigs, it wasn't worth the initial cost. The newer GM trucks seam to have less mechanical issues overall.
Post by: jackelope on April 05, 2017, 07:44:47 AM
Probably the fuel level sending unit. Part of the fuel pump module.
Intermittent problems suck. If we can't reproduce them, we can't verify a failed part and 99% of the time, we won't guess/shotgun parts. If we can't fix it, customers think we're not smart enough to figure out what's wrong with their vehicle.
From what I recall they thought it was a wiring issue between the tank and the dash. We didn't think it was a big enough issue to pay a bunch of money to have them chase down a bad wire, so we just lived with it. I never thought they weren't smart enough to find the issue. This was back when Jerry Chambers owned the dealership in Bellingham. They had some really good techs back then, we did a lot of business with him before he passed.
It's nice when people realize we're not a bunch of dummies LOL.
:tup:
Post by: Skyvalhunter on April 05, 2017, 07:47:24 AM
Post by: C-Money on April 05, 2017, 08:17:12 AM
I got away from diesel. Been doing my pulling the last 8 years with a 2004 Ford V10, 6 speed manual. Stock trailer, camp trailer, ATV trailer, does fine for me. Been very dependable.Great truck but mine netted 7 mpg
I pretty much only drive my pickup when I'm going to have fun, so the fuel bill stings a little less....I'm 8-9 MPG towing, 11-13 empty. It would get expensive as a daily driver...
Post by: jackelope on April 05, 2017, 08:46:34 AM
What's this were stuff? U have a turd in your pocket? :chuckle:
I'm pretty much always a dummy. I just have to work hard to make the guys behind me maintain their smart image.
Post by: Wacenturion on April 05, 2017, 09:13:25 AM
Post by: archery288 on April 05, 2017, 09:16:39 AM
$10k later..... Lol. That alone is twice all the total maintenance I've spent on my Ford since 2006 when I bought it. And all the tuners ect will make more costs in the ling run accelerating the wear on all rolling parts on the truck. I'd never buy a modified truck. Bearings, ball joints, gears, u joints etc all go out faster with big tires and more power. There is always a sacrifice no matter what folks claim on fuel economy. Bigger tires and more power equal more stress on everything which equals premature failure. I'd say half life if you're lucky nice engine.... Everything else is shot just past 150k.
Agreed with your statement 100% lol. There is always a sacrifice for something done... I knew all of that going in to it with the modifications but partly did them because I wanted them done for my own sake to not have a stock truck. I intend on keeping the truck for a long time so when things start going out I will replace them with high-end parts to help preserve the life of the truck from that point on. If you buy the right parts that account for the modifications the truck and engine will last a long time. Now if you're not planning on keeping the truck and willing to invest money in it, don't do the mods.
Post by: Oh Mah on April 05, 2017, 09:53:30 AM
Thanks,what is and how many miles would you suggest the "DELETE" thing whatever it is?what should a person watch for on the 6.4 ps?From my experience...
Duramax LBZ models (2005 I think)
Cummins common rail 24v 2007.5 and earlier (non dpf)
7.3 liter Power stroke,
6.0 liter power stroke if bulletproofed
I prefer the Cummins
Good or Bad?
These are engines I've personally used for work/play that I would recommend.
Ive had newer cummins and 6.4 liter PS that I don't recommend. Both un-modified
EGR coolers, high pressure pumps, injectors, radiators. I've had one in the shop the guy has had the engine replaced(elsewhere) and then the exhaust manifolds replaced 3 times.
Post by: Pnwrider on April 05, 2017, 10:00:03 AM
$10k later..... Lol. That alone is twice all the total maintenance I've spent on my Ford since 2006 when I bought it. And all the tuners ect will make more costs in the ling run accelerating the wear on all rolling parts on the truck. I'd never buy a modified truck. Bearings, ball joints, gears, u joints etc all go out faster with big tires and more power. There is always a sacrifice no matter what folks claim on fuel economy. Bigger tires and more power equal more stress on everything which equals premature failure. I'd say half life if you're lucky nice engine.... Everything else is shot just past 150k.Yea, but your trucks don't have all the emissions crap the newer ones have for one. Second, it doesn't cost 10k to delete and tune a truck. More like 1-2k largely depending on the tuner. My buddy just had to have the egr replaced on his '11 f350 to the tune of $2k. Longevity also depends on what tune you run. If your running a performance tune, absolutely it's gonna take its toll on the internals. I'd argue that a stock or fuel mileage tune does nothing to decrease longevity. Just reduces having to replace dpf and egr down the road.
Post by: baker5150 on April 05, 2017, 10:19:11 AM
$10k later..... Lol. That alone is twice all the total maintenance I've spent on my Ford since 2006 when I bought it. And all the tuners ect will make more costs in the ling run accelerating the wear on all rolling parts on the truck. I'd never buy a modified truck. Bearings, ball joints, gears, u joints etc all go out faster with big tires and more power. There is always a sacrifice no matter what folks claim on fuel economy. Bigger tires and more power equal more stress on everything which equals premature failure. I'd say half life if you're lucky nice engine.... Everything else is shot just past 150k.Yea, but your trucks don't have all the emissions crap the newer ones have for one. Second, it doesn't cost 10k to delete and tune a truck. More like 1-2k largely depending on the tuner. My buddy just had to have the egr replaced on his '11 f350 to the tune of $2k. Longevity also depends on what tune you run. If your running a performance tune, absolutely it's gonna take its toll on the internals. I'd argue that a stock or fuel mileage tune does nothing to decrease longevity. Just reduces having to replace dpf and egr down the road.
:yeah:
The benefits and setbacks to a modified truck all depend on the mod itself.
And if you own a 2006 Ford 6.0 , your going to be putting money into it at some point. It's only a matter of time. That bill seams to run around 10k. Ford really screwed 6.0 owners by not recalling those things
Post by: Mudman on April 05, 2017, 10:22:18 AM
Post by: huntnphool on April 05, 2017, 10:38:13 AM
7.3 fuel system is inferior. Auto trans are not good. Loud. 33% more parts to break. mpg is less than 5.9 cummins. Power is less. That said they are good and rate # 2 from me. 5.9 cummins is the best period. No contest here.
I've never touched my fuel system, rebuilt the transmission at 400k because I thought it was slipping, turned out to be a oil pressure sensor, still pulls my loaded 22' boat over the pass on cruise at 75mph without kicking down and continues to get 18 mpg daily driving........all while approaching half a million miles! YMMV :twocents:
Post by: Mudman on April 05, 2017, 11:55:22 AM
That is remarkable! I did say #2. I love em but love cummins much more. 200k ready for 4th trans, sensors(cam etc) injector harness, glow plugs, relays, injectors, fuel sytem/bowl issues, Ball joints, u joints, so I didn't have great luck. I did love the truck though!7.3 fuel system is inferior. Auto trans are not good. Loud. 33% more parts to break. mpg is less than 5.9 cummins. Power is less. That said they are good and rate # 2 from me. 5.9 cummins is the best period. No contest here.
I've never touched my fuel system, rebuilt the transmission at 400k because I thought it was slipping, turned out to be a oil pressure sensor, still pulls my loaded 22' boat over the pass on cruise at 75mph without kicking down and continues to get 18 mpg daily driving........all while approaching half a million miles! YMMV :twocents:
Post by: Stalker on April 05, 2017, 12:01:48 PM
$10k later..... Lol. That alone is twice all the total maintenance I've spent on my Ford since 2006 when I bought it. And all the tuners ect will make more costs in the ling run accelerating the wear on all rolling parts on the truck. I'd never buy a modified truck. Bearings, ball joints, gears, u joints etc all go out faster with big tires and more power. There is always a sacrifice no matter what folks claim on fuel economy. Bigger tires and more power equal more stress on everything which equals premature failure. I'd say half life if you're lucky nice engine.... Everything else is shot just past 150k.Yea, but your trucks don't have all the emissions crap the newer ones have for one. Second, it doesn't cost 10k to delete and tune a truck. More like 1-2k largely depending on the tuner. My buddy just had to have the egr replaced on his '11 f350 to the tune of $2k. Longevity also depends on what tune you run. If your running a performance tune, absolutely it's gonna take its toll on the internals. I'd argue that a stock or fuel mileage tune does nothing to decrease longevity. Just reduces having to replace dpf and egr down the road.
I have an 06 F350 DRW crew cab. Had it bullet proofed shortly after I purchased it in 09 when it had <46K miles on it and I run a Bully Dog PMT in it set on performance mode most of the time except when towing boat. When not towing I can get 16-17.5 MPG on HGWY (8600 lb vehicle). When towing boat, about 8400 lbs it is down to 10-11. I also have an AMES Oil by pass filter system in it and change the oil annually (about 10K - 11K miles). I have not had any significant issues with my rig and for the most part am very happy with the performance. I agree with most of what both of your posts state but would add that the biggest part of running a tuner is to keep your foot out of it when taking off or stomping the throttle in general. These things can produce a good amount of HP but I would submit that some personal restraint on the throttle will go a long way in preserving the internal parts and drive-line.
Post by: Special T on April 05, 2017, 12:16:35 PM
Ford 2000 f350 stick 7.3
My brother was a Ford Mechanic and now owns this rig.
DODGE 03-06.5 Cummins 6speed stick. I currently have 2. Even stock they are pulling machines and a few horses wouldn't even work it hard
If you went older than 03 I'd still get a stick but I had bad experiences with the 5th gear coming off the shaft. I also kept the rig connected to the goose neck and it was always maxed out on heavy loads. Casual use may be fine with light loads and using 4th gear why pulling loads.
I've owned 1 automatic on a 1st gen Cummins and will never have an auto on a pulling rig again. They suck, but that combo is everywhere. IF I found a cherry low mile one that was owned by the old couple pulling the t.v. I would put some $ into a good tranny cooler not the stock POS. They make some awesome after market stuff as well as exhaust brakes. The older 2wd dually are everywhere for reasonable. Flat bed it, fat bumper with a hitch for a removable winch will take care of most of what you could need. 19.5 steel wheels and 8r19.5 or 245/75r19.5 and it will be a road Tug.
Post by: archery288 on April 05, 2017, 12:18:17 PM
$10k later..... Lol. That alone is twice all the total maintenance I've spent on my Ford since 2006 when I bought it. And all the tuners ect will make more costs in the ling run accelerating the wear on all rolling parts on the truck. I'd never buy a modified truck. Bearings, ball joints, gears, u joints etc all go out faster with big tires and more power. There is always a sacrifice no matter what folks claim on fuel economy. Bigger tires and more power equal more stress on everything which equals premature failure. I'd say half life if you're lucky nice engine.... Everything else is shot just past 150k.Yea, but your trucks don't have all the emissions crap the newer ones have for one. Second, it doesn't cost 10k to delete and tune a truck. More like 1-2k largely depending on the tuner. My buddy just had to have the egr replaced on his '11 f350 to the tune of $2k. Longevity also depends on what tune you run. If your running a performance tune, absolutely it's gonna take its toll on the internals. I'd argue that a stock or fuel mileage tune does nothing to decrease longevity. Just reduces having to replace dpf and egr down the road.
I think he was talking about the lift, wheels, tires and everything else. Regardless, I'm with you on that. If you're running the performance tune and hammering on the truck everywhere you go, you're going to have issues a lot sooner. If you drive it on a mileage tune and keep the lead foot to a minimum, it's going to last you a lot longer let alone as mentioned you got rid of some expensive parts that would need to be replaced down the road. And all things considered, if you want a lifted truck and still want to get halfway decent gas mileage, diesel is the only way to go. The 5.9 cummins is truly tough to beat when it comes to mileage... If you calculate the difference you'd spend in fuel money over a long run in say a non-deleted truck where you'd get 10-12mpg if you're lucky on say 37's, vs 19-20mpg it will put a lot of money back in your pocket therefore helping pay for the cost to do the deletes. There's pros and cons to both sides of it.
Post by: huntnphool on April 05, 2017, 01:00:38 PM
That is remarkable! I did say #2. I love em but love cummins much more. 200k ready for 4th trans, sensors(cam etc) injector harness, glow plugs, relays, injectors, fuel sytem/bowl issues, Ball joints, u joints, so I didn't have great luck. I did love the truck though!7.3 fuel system is inferior. Auto trans are not good. Loud. 33% more parts to break. mpg is less than 5.9 cummins. Power is less. That said they are good and rate # 2 from me. 5.9 cummins is the best period. No contest here.
I've never touched my fuel system, rebuilt the transmission at 400k because I thought it was slipping, turned out to be a oil pressure sensor, still pulls my loaded 22' boat over the pass on cruise at 75mph without kicking down and continues to get 18 mpg daily driving........all while approaching half a million miles! YMMV :twocents:
If you were including injectors in "fuel system" then I lied, I changed the injectors last summer. :tup:
Post by: whacker1 on April 05, 2017, 02:08:45 PM
edit. took me a few minutest to find it, but this was the link I was referring to. based on what you described, I think this would be a good option if it fits your budget.
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,209930.0.html
Post by: spoonman on April 05, 2017, 03:21:14 PM
I have owned a 2002 7.3 powerstroke and now own a 2007 5.9 cummins. The 7.3 was a great power plant and was pretty reliable other than the cam pos sensor going out a couple times. I now have a 2007 mega cab 5.9 with 150k on it and have had zero issues so far. The power is a bit different in the 5.9 as it definitely feels to have more low end torque than the 7.3 but that's just my experience. I am getting great fuel economy out of my 5.9 and have found nothing to complain about at this point. I don't think you can go wrong with a 01 or 02 7.3 or a 06-07 5.9 cummins, both very stout power plants.
Just a heads up on these comments. Mid-model year 2007 switched to the 6.7L Cummins with all the emissions crap on it. Those things were constant problems. By all means, if you find a good '07 Ram go for it, just make sure it's the 5.9L. It's kind of become a bit of a unicorn.
It is the 5.9, had it shipped here from Wyoming.
Post by: RB on April 05, 2017, 04:06:17 PM
Post by: Jeremy Leaf on April 05, 2017, 09:40:16 PM
Post by: 2labs on April 05, 2017, 09:50:24 PM
I'd have to put another vote in for the Ford 1999 to 2003 7.3 models. I've had one with a six spd shaker stick forever. I pull a 23' walkaround all over the west coast year round. It's been extremely dependable and gets great mileage.
Yea, but special people will never believe you!......
Post by: jmscon on April 05, 2017, 10:35:23 PM
Third I had an brand new '09 dodge 2500 diesel 6 spd, every 18 months had to take it in for a egr cooler grid cleanout (or something like that); had one of the u-joints on the front axle start to lock up, felt like I was in 4x when I was turning when I wasn't; last straw, the windshield started to leak. After three years traded it in for an '02 Dodge with a 5.9 that was a great truck for five years (also totaled). I'm now looking at getting a '05 Dodge. The 5.9 long beds with decent mileage are very hard to find!
Post by: KimWar1911 on April 06, 2017, 12:11:16 AM
First diesel I had was a used '88 Ford naturally aspirated 7.3 snail. Second one was a used '97 7.3 power stroke. Both Fords were autos and the '97 had some slippage. The '97 also had a high altitude starting problem, I probably would have figured it out if I hadn't hit an elk on I-90 going 70. Both Fords were totaled.I love my 05. Has low miles at 125k. A bigger back seat would be nice like the newer ones have but then I'd have to have a 6.7.
Third I had an brand new '09 dodge 2500 diesel 6 spd, every 18 months had to take it in for a egr cooler grid cleanout (or something like that); had one of the u-joints on the front axle start to lock up, felt like I was in 4x when I was turning when I wasn't; last straw, the windshield started to leak. After three years traded it in for an '02 Dodge with a 5.9 that was a great truck for five years (also totaled). I'm now looking at getting a '05 Dodge. The 5.9 long beds with decent mileage are very hard to find!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Skyvalhunter on April 06, 2017, 05:27:07 AM
Post by: HntnFsh on April 06, 2017, 05:49:31 AM
there was an 2006 duramax with 150k miles on here in the last 60 days if you go looking that would be a good choice to explore for $22k. don't know if it is gone, but worth looking back through the thread.
edit. took me a few minutest to find it, but this was the link I was referring to. based on what you described, I think this would be a good option if it fits your budget.
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,209930.0.html
Appreciate the "google fu" Whacker, I'll give that fella a call. Good stuff folks, this is what I've been looking for, a simple what you liked and didn't like and why. Appreciate all the help.
I looked at the ad for this truck when it first came out. If I was in the market for another truck with the LBZ. I would be giving this one serious consideration.
Post by: dyhardhuntr on April 06, 2017, 10:21:55 AM
Post by: Skyvalhunter on April 06, 2017, 11:28:05 AM
Post by: denali on April 06, 2017, 04:46:44 PM
Post by: Mudman on April 06, 2017, 08:25:26 PM
Post by: 2labs on April 06, 2017, 08:56:57 PM
My 05 Ram is at 149k. 18mpg 12-14 towing. 20 on freeway at 65. Turbo and tuner and gauges. 6" lift and 35"s. Auto trans. 2m fuel filter. No problems yet from the cummins. Ball joints, pitman, shocks, brakes from the truck. Really been a great truck. My biggest complaint is I don't like how the Dodges steer-all of these years. Ford drives smoother.
Dodge wander,... Acountince has3 dui's from the dodge wander! He deserved every one!
Post by: Happy Gilmore on April 06, 2017, 10:33:22 PM
I've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.
Post by: HntnFsh on April 07, 2017, 05:31:56 AM
Post by: baker5150 on April 07, 2017, 07:15:49 AM
My 05 Ram is at 149k. 18mpg 12-14 towing. 20 on freeway at 65. Turbo and tuner and gauges. 6" lift and 35"s. Auto trans. 2m fuel filter. No problems yet from the cummins. Ball joints, pitman, shocks, brakes from the truck. Really been a great truck. My biggest complaint is I don't like how the Dodges steer-all of these years. Ford drives smoother.
Did you have a Shift kit Installed in your trans?
If not, it's worth the $. Not only does it shift smoother and eliminates the shuttle shift, it allows fluid flow thru the trans cooler in park.
They are cheap, I'd also upgrade the servo and gov pressure solenoid, if not already done.
With all this done, these trans will last a lot longer than a stock re-build.
Post by: baker5150 on April 07, 2017, 07:28:47 AM
I've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.
Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit.
I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever.
Sorry for the thread jack. :sry:
Post by: jackelope on April 07, 2017, 07:48:38 AM
My 2005 Cummins just turned 300,000 miles. my second transmission is starting to shift funny however :rolleyes:
You got a brake light out....
:)
Post by: dyhardhuntr on April 07, 2017, 08:38:20 AM
Very good info. Obviously lower is going to be better. 1300 degrees is pushing the limit. I wouldn't run it for an extended period of time. If you get to that point you need to let off the fuel and or downshift to get your rpms up. Or you can run bigger exhaust. You can have all the fancy high horsepower stuff on an engine but if you can't get rid of the heat it's all useless.I've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.
Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit.
I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever.
Sorry for the thread jack. :sry:
Post by: dyhardhuntr on April 07, 2017, 08:39:27 AM
Some good info there!! Old truckers never die they just get a new PeterbuiltPeterbilt for life! Lol
Post by: whacker1 on April 07, 2017, 09:00:27 AM
Very good info. Obviously lower is going to be better. 1300 degrees is pushing the limit. I wouldn't run it for an extended period of time. If you get to that point you need to let off the fuel and or downshift to get your rpms up. Or you can run bigger exhaust. You can have all the fancy high horsepower stuff on an engine but if you can't get rid of the heat it's all useless.I've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.
Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit.
I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever.
Sorry for the thread jack. :sry:
Out of curiousity, how much can you really lower temps with a Cat back exhaust change? Obviously with Turbo back and emissions delete this would have a much greater effect, but I thought it was worth the question. I am about to purchase a newer 6.7 F350 and was curious what I can really do without screwing up the warranty.
Post by: denali on April 07, 2017, 09:24:34 AM
My 2005 Cummins just turned 300,000 miles. my second transmission is starting to shift funny however :rolleyes:
You got a brake light out....
:)
As soon as I posted I figured someone would call me out, I'm on it :)
Post by: Happy Gilmore on April 07, 2017, 10:16:41 AM
Post by: whacker1 on April 07, 2017, 11:34:28 AM
I've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.
Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit.
I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever.
Sorry for the thread jack. :sry:
Cat back exhaust? what size pipe? and how much do you think you lowered EGT in normal use under load? 100 degrees? more? and what intake?
Post by: jackelope on April 07, 2017, 12:41:55 PM
My 2005 Cummins just turned 300,000 miles. my second transmission is starting to shift funny however :rolleyes:
You got a brake light out....
:)
As soon as I posted I figured someone would call me out, I'm on it :)
I'm pretty sure I see every burned out light bulb on the road.
:chuckle:
Post by: Skyvalhunter on April 07, 2017, 12:47:05 PM
Post by: Smokepole on April 07, 2017, 12:51:09 PM
Post by: jackelope on April 07, 2017, 12:53:06 PM
Even the ones in your own vehicle?
I had one that plagued me recently. Was intermittently not working. Replaced the bulb, it would work then not work. Eventually crapped out completely. Found it to be some aftermarket module/flux capacitor they installed when they installed the hitch and trailer wires. $49 and good as new.
:jacked:
Post by: Mudman on April 07, 2017, 12:59:55 PM
Post by: baker5150 on April 07, 2017, 01:26:30 PM
Very good info. Obviously lower is going to be better. 1300 degrees is pushing the limit. I wouldn't run it for an extended period of time. If you get to that point you need to let off the fuel and or downshift to get your rpms up. Or you can run bigger exhaust. You can have all the fancy high horsepower stuff on an engine but if you can't get rid of the heat it's all useless.I've been a diesel mechanic for close to 17 years now. For 10 years I worked at a peterbilt dealer as the lead engine guy and for the last 7 years I've worked for the local municipality fleet. All of the engines mentioned have their issues and nuances. The biggest issues with diesels is from a maintenance stand point. A lot of people think that just because it's a diesel it will last longer. That's true if you maintain it. Diesels are quite a bit more $ to maintain over the life of them. If you're hauling regularly then it's a great way to go. Most of the diesels nowadays are great motors. Nothing has really changed much other then the emissions. Even the 6.0 ford is a great motor( it just needs a little money to make it that way). Also idling a new motor kills the emission system. Don't idle it for hours. Just drive it normally and you should be fine. New truck are a little more maintenance but if you pick up an older truck you're also going to pay for it. A buddy of mine picked up a nice Durand with low miles and 10 years old and payed 30k for it. So keep an eye out for good deals. If I was you and it's just an opinion, I would look at dodge or chevy. Dodge has a great base platform and it's proven. It's a straight six and those motors have a longer torque curve( no opposing cylinders). The only thing about dodge I dislike coming from a tech standpoint is dodge only allows you to see certain parameters for diagnoses. If you like to do your own work this can be a downfall. Duramax is a great motor(2004.5-early 07 before dpf). One thing you should look into is puttin a pyrometers guage to watch your exhaust temps when pulling. That will cook any motor no matter how great it is. It's a tough decision but those 2 engines are probably going to be cheaper maintenance in the long run. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.
What are the temperature parameters for a 03 duramax? My gauge beeps at 1,200. I try to run it up hills with 20psi boost and around 900-1000, 2,300rpm seems to be the sweet spot.
Best test for EGT limit is to load your truck heavy, usually done with a trailer or 5er, and haul up as steep a hill as you can find, drive it like you would a normal trip, or a little harder. Make sure if you have a programmer to put it back to stock first. Then watch your EGT's and see what the max it reaches is. That should be your max, to be safe I would back it off a bit.
I set mine up to alarm at 1250 and then defuel the truck. My test was closer to 1300. I used to hit the alarm quiet a bit going over the pass', so I upgraded my exhaust and intake. Now I rarely hit, usually right before a down shift, if ever.
Sorry for the thread jack. :sry:
Out of curiousity, how much can you really lower temps with a Cat back exhaust change? Obviously with Turbo back and emissions delete this would have a much greater effect, but I thought it was worth the question. I am about to purchase a newer 6.7 F350 and was curious what I can really do without screwing up the warranty.
I have a Diamond Eye 4" turbo back, 2006 so no emissions BS to deal with. Single out the back
AFE intake and filter
I dropped about 100 degrees on average. Just enough to keep me under 1250 95% of the time when towing.
I NEVER hit that unless loaded, and I did before. It's a bit loud, but not horrible. Worth the $$ in my mind.
Watch the warranty stuff, most aftermarket parts void warranties from what I'm told. I waited unitl my warranty was up before doing anything to my truck.
Post by: baker5150 on April 07, 2017, 01:29:32 PM
I know cummins will run 1300egt all day. I did stock test and she ran about 1320 degrees max. I set my warning at 1300 and back off at 1350. No issues. I saw a cummins demo where they ran the 5.9 under 100% load for 24 hours strait at 1300 egt. It was for a marine application but still makes the point. People back off to early cause they don't know whats safe. I kick off OD when towing and pull hills around 1200egt @ 60mph+. Must keep rpm up higher to cool. But I have upgrade turbo too. Yes I did a trans flush filter and solenoid upgrades at 90k when I bought truck. I intend on rebuilding trans soon but it still works fine. I slip torque converter if I put too much power down and still have shuttle shift issue. If its a 325hp engine I am probably running about 425hp and 7-800tq empty and 375 750 towing. I have to dial it back because trans cant take any more then 2 or 3 on tunes. If heavier I have ran stock tune with good results. Only issue is around 35-40 mph between 2nd and drive. If I let it lug(EGT) or downshift to 2nd it doesn't like to lock up and creates trans heat when towing hills. Anyone who tows without trans (auto) temp is asking for problems-guaranteed! One thing for sure is this Dodge will pull the guts out of my 01 Ford 350 however the Fords big eng and big turbo did a good job of cooling heavy loads, better than stock dodge little turbo does.
Do you have a TC lockup switch (mystery switch)? Best thing I ever did for towing, 2nd gear locked pulls like a mother, and keeps the trans temp in check.
Especially over Hwy 20 climbing slow around all the corners above the lakes, trans temp hardly moves.
Post by: Mudman on April 07, 2017, 02:16:25 PM
Post by: jmscon on April 07, 2017, 03:09:04 PM
Post by: baker5150 on April 07, 2017, 03:28:58 PM
Just found out recently that shuttle shift can be caused by fouled battery terminals, specifically the passenger side battery. At least that was true on my '02 ram.
Yes 98-02 there is interference on a wire that can cause it.
If you wrap the wire in tin foil its a cheap fix.
Check you tube for it
Post by: bearpaw on April 07, 2017, 03:46:43 PM
Post by: Mudman on April 07, 2017, 06:14:33 PM
Post by: MuleySniper on May 26, 2017, 08:48:07 PM
Post by: Mudman on May 27, 2017, 12:34:16 AM
Just saw this! My gen. 1 6.7 is still chugging along fine with 105k on it. Ive owned it new since I bought it in 07. Only complaint is I lifted it. :chuckle: It eats 37" tires and drives like a tank. Ive replaced nearly every front end component with either moog or spicer parts too. Added a steering stabilizer as well.. :tup:Ya me too. Ball joints are a PIA! Upgrade your front coils. Les schabby are crap. Much better riding coils available for not too much coin. I have a wide spaced 6ish coil that rides way better than friends 08 with 8+ stiff schabby springs. I went to 35" tire and it helped.
Post by: Miles on May 27, 2017, 07:17:29 AM
Post by: timberghost72 on May 27, 2017, 07:19:36 AM
Post by: Stalkin Prey on May 27, 2017, 08:28:40 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Mudman on May 27, 2017, 09:43:03 AM
Post by: Stalkin Prey on May 27, 2017, 09:48:52 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Halo on May 27, 2017, 11:01:33 AM
Post by: spin05 on June 03, 2017, 05:09:38 AM
Post by: bowNarrow on October 01, 2017, 06:16:44 PM
Post by: Special T on October 01, 2017, 08:13:51 PM
In line 6 rule for dependability and longevity.
Post by: Mudman on October 01, 2017, 09:06:03 PM
All right guys, I found another one, lets get some info. 2008 ford F450 6.4 L Power Stroke with a 6 speed auto trans. Pros and cons?Do yourself a favor and quit looking at it. :sry:
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on October 01, 2017, 11:35:28 PM
love my 04.5 dodge 3500 cummins ram
:yeah: but mines a 2500. :tup:
Post by: Dirty Mike on December 11, 2017, 08:41:07 AM
Post by: highside74 on December 11, 2017, 08:49:54 AM
Post by: CAMPMEAT on December 12, 2017, 03:36:39 PM
Post by: Mudman on December 12, 2017, 06:22:26 PM
Post by: Magnum_Willys on December 12, 2017, 06:32:24 PM
Post by: KFhunter on December 12, 2017, 06:51:34 PM
I drive a 1995 with 12v 47rh transmission, 300k miles. Still goes good but I might need to address the transmission if I start selling hay again
Post by: CAMPMEAT on December 13, 2017, 07:18:55 AM
Detroit!!! Screaming all the way! :yike:
...............screaming to the mechanics shop ! :tup:
Post by: slowhand on December 13, 2017, 07:26:52 AM
lil baby eco-diesel in current Ram 1500's or better yet the new 2018 Jeep Rubicon......I was told no Diesel for Wrangler yet? New info?
My 2015 F350 with 6.7L Diesel is the best I have owned hands down. Mucho power and great mileage for a 9k LB truck. Out of the big three Ford is the best as of right now. :twocents:
Post by: Magnum_Willys on December 13, 2017, 09:13:14 AM
Post by: floatinghat on December 26, 2017, 09:11:45 AM
Wrangler gets it for 2019 model so probably see next fall at earliest.
read the forums for the diesel failures. I have a friend who has had two grenade in a Ram 1500. I wouldn't be trusting at least up through 2017, FCA is also going away from the name ecodiesel.
Need a Toyota to bring the LC 75 as an oil burner.
Post by: Magnum_Willys on December 26, 2017, 09:17:59 AM
Post by: Calvin Rayborn on December 29, 2017, 12:26:49 AM