Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: elkaholic123 on May 05, 2017, 08:04:45 AM
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I can't figure out my problem :dunno:
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Wasn't everyone's first welding project in metal shop a mini 14?
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It's because it's a mini 14!
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I don't see any color on the threads try lock tight, always lock tight the threads on a scope!
Also, replace the nuts with walnuts so you can quickly switch to irons without tools if your optic goes down!
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I'd check the torque on those ring screws. Everything else looks good
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You should try welding the rings to the top of that riser; and remember, “the bigger the gob the better the job”.
:tup:
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:yike: stupid is as stupid does!!
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Scope should be welded to the rings, wont move that way.
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RIP, mini 14.
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Should have used stainless scope mount brackets. Welding standard metal brackets to a stainless receiver is the real problem. :chuckle:
Some JB weld AND a larger glob of weld should be good for a temporary fix.
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Should have went with JB Weld instead
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It's the way you are holding the gun.
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The lack of duck tape is clearly problem. Quarter roll should get that back to sub moa
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Those minis shoot best with a 20moa dot reticle.
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Might want to take a good look at the barrel. It may need to be re-crowned or straightened. Easy to do at home with a few commonly found tools.
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The mount system looks rock solid to me.
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Whats the MOA on the rail? :chuckle:
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You need to reload. Factory ammo sucks.
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Maybe a barrel stabilizer will help your issues.
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Get rid of the sled and shoot it over sand bags. Those sleds are worthless.
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The hell!! If the barrel is straight and cannot be improved by a judicious application of a drilling hammer and the crown has been inspected and found to not be in need of touch up by a P Grinder it is what we call operator error.
Free recoil vs a hard or medium hold? Much of this is dependent on the shape of the stock, how it rides the bags, the rifles weight and the amount of felt recoil it generates.
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All kidding aside: I met, and shot with, a chuck hunter/rancher who ordered one of those "newfangled" rifle scopes and a set of mounts, back in the 1950's, and he took his 250 Savage Model 70 out of the stock, put it in the vise and lined er' up on the sign "down the way." Wrapped the action up in a wet rag and with his Lincoln welder.... bzzzt, bzzzt, bzzzt, bzzt got er' done.
When I met him, in the 1980's he had a brand new Leupold 4-12 VX2 and his rig was "all that." At that time we were shooting Ruger and 788's in 22-250 and he kept up with us. Being as he had shot that rifle for 30 plus years we were not at all worried about it letting loose, either that or we did not know any better.
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Hope to see another pic of the stock that gives good cheek weld with that setup.
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Stop for a second.
With the thumb and index finger of your right hand, measure the distance between your cheekbone and your eye socket. Inch and a half?
Now then. Imagine your cheekbone firmly on the stock of that rifle. How long would your skull have to be to see down the pipe of that scope?
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Stop for a second.
With the thumb and index finger of your right hand, measure the distance between your cheekbone and your eye socket. Inch and a half?
Now then. Imagine your cheekbone firmly on the stock of that rifle. How long would your skull have to be to see down the pipe of that scope?
I think you hit on it. That rifle is clearly designed for a low-cheeked individual.
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I'm not seeing any zip ties. No piece of equipment should ever head to the field without zip ties.