Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: Oh Mah on May 01, 2018, 06:39:35 PM
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Been reloading for a while now,Starting to have troubles with my .300 win mag.Brass goes in just fine but after firing sticks every shot.I ran this brass thru my fl die 5-6 times as is to see any tight spots.you see the clean brass ring toward the belt.is this a sign of pressure or a sign that it is hardened and springing over size?
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Bend a paper clip with a short 90 at the end and straighten the rest of the clip. Run the clip to the shine and you should feel a little valley there. Brass is thinning and will get a separation there and a stuck remainder of the case. Discard case, usually caused by over working a case.
OOPS didn't see classified before posting!
LEN
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ooops sorry mods will move it.
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The same is on the other end also.
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Has this brass been previously fired in this rifle?
Do you have some brass that chambers to compare?
Usually brass sticking in the chamber is a sign of pressure, what is your load?
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No need to get butt hurt about it.
How much were you bumping the shoulders? 5-6 firings is pretty quick
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Bend a paper clip with a short 90 at the end and straighten the rest of the clip. Run the clip to the shine and you should feel a little valley there. Brass is thinning and will get a separation there and a stuck remainder of the case. Discard case, usually caused by over working a case.
OOPS didn't see classified before posting!
LEN
Seems a bit close to the case head to be separation, but possible.
Looks more like just where the sizing die ends
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yes been fired a few times in same rifle.Chambers just fine.When reloaded and fired they stick.
Is it time to buy new brass?Is my load to hot?only recently started this load i think brass has fired this load 2 times now.the load is
81 grain h 1000 180 grain nosler BT.3.340 coal.
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No need to get butt hurt about it.
How much were you bumping the shoulders? 5-6 firings is pretty quick
I bring the die down touch off(cam like)on the case holder and run.
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I only size until it chambers and that’s how my brass looks too, slight change in color/angle where the bottom of the die is. Tough bolt lift sounds like a case of overpressure though
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That load doesn’t seem overly hot. Are there any ejector plunger marks on the case head? Primer flowing or cratering?
Do you have a headspace comparator?
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Just scrap the brass; that looks like a good warning sign of case head separation if you keep shooting it.
Do you anneal the cases? They could just be getting work hardened and don't have as much "spring" to them any more.
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Bend a paper clip with a short 90 at the end and straighten the rest of the clip. Run the clip to the shine and you should feel a little valley there. Brass is thinning and will get a separation there and a stuck remainder of the case. Discard case, usually caused by over working a case.
OOPS didn't see classified before posting!
LEN
:yeah: I had this happen recently and 2 or 3 other cases were ready to separate. 300 WM cases seem to get stretched after several sizings and they get thin in that area.
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as it came out of the chamber.yes i have headspace comparitor,no cratering.
ok i will scrap the brass and get some new. :tup:
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the black is permanent marker.i mark the 180's black 210 green and 150 red.
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sorry, no i have never got into the annealing as of yet.
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The brass needs replaced. Look for all signs of pressure on the new brass. Fired way over 20K of .300 Win Mag. Not a typo “Way over 20K”. It has been my favorite chambering since 1986. I have shot out barrels chambered in .300 Win by Krieger, Pac-Nor, Schnieder, Mike Rock, Obermeyer and several factory Rem700 Sendero’s. A factory Sendero if it isn’t overheated and abused will easily go over 3K. I started shooting a 25-.284 about the same time. The .300 Win Mag barrels way out lasted the 25-.284 barrels.
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as it came out of the chamber.yes i have headspace comparitor,no cratering.
ok i will scrap the brass and get some new. :tup:
I really hope the primer was still in there when it came out of the chamber, otherwise I think we found your problem! :chuckle:
81.0gr of H1000 with a Nosler E-Tip is a pretty hot load. The solid copper E-Tips hit pressure a lot sooner than cup and core bullets because of their extra length the different material. Do you have a velocity for that load?
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The brass needs replaced. Look for all signs of pressure on the new brass. Fired way over 20K of .300 Win Mag. Not a typo “Way over 20K”. It has been my favorite chambering since 1986. I have shot out barrels chambered in .300 Win by Krieger, Pac-Nor, Schnieder, Mike Rock, Obermeyer and several factory Rem700 Sendero’s. A factory Sendero if it isn’t overheated and abused will easily go over 3K.
Show off......... :chuckle:
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as it came out of the chamber.yes i have headspace comparitor,no cratering.
ok i will scrap the brass and get some new. :tup:
I really hope the primer was still in there when it came out of the chamber, otherwise I think we found your problem! :chuckle:
81.0gr of H1000 with a Nosler E-Tip is a pretty hot load. The solid copper E-Tips hit pressure a lot sooner than cup and core bullets because of their extra length the different material. Do you have a velocity for that load?
you got me here lol.i resized it about 6 times to get clear interference marks and the primer was pushed out. :chuckle: in my book under my notes i have average of 3108 fps. 10 shots
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The brass needs replaced. Look for all signs of pressure on the new brass. Fired way over 20K of .300 Win Mag. Not a typo “Way over 20K”. It has been my favorite chambering since 1986. I have shot out barrels chambered in .300 Win by Krieger, Pac-Nor, Schnieder, Mike Rock, Obermeyer and several factory Rem700 Sendero’s. A factory Sendero if it isn’t overheated and abused will easily go over 3K.
Show off......... :chuckle:
When I hunt I shove a hand full of .300 Win Mag cartridges down the front of my briefs. It’s extremly liberarating in a “Right wing” sort of way!
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when i do get into the annealing its only the tip right?Is it different with belted brass?
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@Biggerhammer--How can you tell if your extractor is going?
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check your head space.
Carl
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I’m not going to read through the whole thread.
Is it a Rem700?
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yes
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check your head space.
Carl
do you mean with a go no go gauge?
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yes, with all the ideas you have been given, it seems like everything is checked except the rifle.
Carl
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If brass is sticking. It’s not a extractor problem. It’s a brass issue. With a factory Rem700 bolt/extractor. You will destroy it with sticky cases. I have replaced several Rem700 extractors on Factory Sendero’s when I pushed them too hard. All my customs have Sako or Sako style extractors.
With the Sako extractors. A guy can’t incinerate a primer, have a ton of smoke roll out of the bolt and it will still eject the cartridge with a ample amount of force. The same load will destroy a factory Rem700 extractor.
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yes, with all the ideas you have been given, it seems like everything is checked except the rifle.
Carl
:tup: ill send it in
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Brass looks like it needs annealed. How much are you bumping shoulder - .002 ?
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most of my brass has come out around .002 under fireform.the rest is between that and .015 short.
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Brass looks like it needs annealed. How much are you bumping shoulder - .002 ?
Can i anneal the entire brass?
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Brass looks like it needs annealed. How much are you bumping shoulder - .002 ?
Can i anneal the entire brass?
Give it a try and let us know how it turns out.
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Brass looks like it needs annealed. How much are you bumping shoulder - .002 ?
Can i anneal the entire brass?
Annealing is designed to soften the brass where it gets work hardened. Elsewhere, the brass needs to remain hard or you risk catastrophic case failure.
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Is bolt lift stiff?
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No,transitions very smooth.What Bofire brought up has me thinking.The bolt moves easy chambers easy but it is sprung a little when locking the bolt.I need to check the head space. :tup:
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Every time i find a problem i find myself learning.I just talked to a friend of mine i got to the well some are .002 under and some are .015 under and he stopped me,He said where do you keep your case holders?I said in the cabinet,he said well i figured that but how?I said all my case holders are in a cup in the cabinet................He said there's your problem with that.
So i went and checked and between the 4 diff. case holders for the .300 are diff. thicknesses depending on the brand.
Moral of story put your case holder in the die box and store it there when you get the right one for your rifle. :tup: We are machinist and he has ground his to the exact .002 under his rifles head space.Always learning.
Thanks for all replies, without them i would not have come to this.If i was checking with my head space gauge i would have caught the problem before also.
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That was my next question. I mark my case holders with a sharpie so no matter what I know which goes where! Same goes for comparators
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:tup:
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Your loading pretty hot, I would back your load down to about 3035-3050fps. That's my guess as to why your starting to get the bulge that develops right above the belt, happens more often after shooting over max loads. At least that was my issue in my 300wm. There is a collet sizing die that will get that bulge out.
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Yep a few reloads at .015 bumpback will get you to close to head separation way sooner than .002. Good spotting on the holders - I’ll make sure I label mine.
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Just got back from shooting range,Everything checked out just perfectly on the head space and the chamber.Reloaded new brass with imr 4350 instead of the h 1000.Not one sticky brass.FPS stayed close to the h 1000.
I'm pretty sure that it was the brass as stated earlier by a member.I need to start figuring the annealing thing out. :tup: Thanks everyone for the replies.
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Check this out: http://www.annealeez.com/
Not really too expensive IMO and it works great. :tup:
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You can anneal by hand no problem. If you do it like I do you’ll burn your self before you can over do it
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just heat neck to a change in color and tip in water?
after every firing or what?
Im gonna get my stuff out and see how far it stretched the new brass.
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Stretching after firing or FL resizing?
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before firing new brass 2.258
after firing 2.270
Need re size to 2.268 :tup:
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Neck and shoulder should be heated to 750 ish degrees. Putting them in water isn’t necessary.
I anneal all of mine every firing. But every couple firings is probably sufficient
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Neck and shoulder should be heated to 750 ish degrees. Putting them in water isn’t necessary.
Exactly, the water thing is just time consuming. Once you load for your rifle enough, you can feel the neck tension lesson up. That’s when you need to aneal. With my .300’s and my loads, I aneal about every three firings. When I do, I aneal all of the brass at the same time.
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:tup:
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Use a cordless drill driver, approx 11/16" deep socket ( depending on cartridge) . Propane torch.
Put drill on slow, brass in socket, center shoulder on flame 2" out, angle brass so flame goes along shoulder angle. 5-6 seconds in flame, gently drop on crunched up aluminum foil to avoid denting or dump in pan of water.
I use metronome app to count out exact seconds.
Test your time - turn off all lights, count how long it takes for brass to just barely turn red at all - this is max time.
You will see brass turn kind of shiny from tip to 1/2" below shoulder. This is when you stop.
Try it ! You can test with a punch to see your progress.
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I anneal every loading. I don’t want something different every few loading. I want every batch exactly the same. Doing so has made a big enough difference to justify the extra time. Don’t use water cause then you need to dry them to load. The water is just to stop the heat from drifting down the case. Not needed if you don’t over heat. I aim the flame at the neck shoulder junction and have never had get over heated. If your seeing color change on the brass you’re in the right temp range. Annealing every loading means less work hardening between loading and that means less temp is needed to anneal. Don’t do your brass annealing research on reloading info. If you want good info and facts research brass annealing metallurgy
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My method of annealing is a bit different. I save up hundreds of pieces of brass then go to BullBlasters house and run them through his fancy machine while simultaneously stuffing my face with those delicious cinnamon frosting breadstick things from pipeline pizza. It's worked well for me and recommend it highly :chuckle:
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lets see this machine,i was just looking at a few home made ones.
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Last year I bought an Annealeez http://www.annealeez.com/Products.asp and have been pretty happy with it. I anneal every batch now because I don’t keep my brass in lots when I shoot and it is easier to just do it each time I reload. I looked at building my own machine or doing it any of the other numerous other ways but felt that the cost would be offset in time and consistency, which it has. I can do 100 pieces of brass in a few minutes and know they are all consistent.
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Lots of them for sale at half the price of new. There a reason.👍
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Lots of them for sale at half the price of new. There a reason.👍
:yeah:
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I have a giraud tool machine.
Isn’t absolutely necessary but does a consistent job and is easy to run. I just fill it up and let it go.
I don’t have a picture of the machine on my phone but this picture is some 6mm creedmoor rounds I annealer and necked down from 6.5 next to some 243.
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Lots of them for sale at half the price of new. There a reason.👍
:yeah:
I haven't seen lots of used units for sale. I really haven't heard of any complaints with the annealeez. Seems to work fine........ :dunno:
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You literally couldn't pay me to go back to hand torching.
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I have a giraud tool machine.
Isn’t absolutely necessary but does a consistent job and is easy to run. I just fill it up and let it go.
I don’t have a picture of the machine on my phone but this picture is some 6mm creedmoor rounds I annealer and necked down from 6.5 next to some 243.
they don’t appear to be very consistent. Colors run down at different lengths. My hand annealed brass is more consistent than that. I would expect machine annealed brass to all look identical.
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I have a giraud tool machine.
Isn’t absolutely necessary but does a consistent job and is easy to run. I just fill it up and let it go.
I don’t have a picture of the machine on my phone but this picture is some 6mm creedmoor rounds I annealer and necked down from 6.5 next to some 243.
they don’t appear to be very consistent. Colors run down at different lengths. My hand annealed brass is more consistent than that. I would expect machine annealed brass to all look identical.
I think what you are seeing is just the angle of the pic and the cartridges not being lined up very evenly. For instance the one on the far left is back slightly making it look like it's a different sized case all together. I promise you every single piece that comes out of that annealer is perfectly identical. I've run thousands of pieces of my brass through it and it's on point every time.
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Man’s time is worth something. That Girraud (sic?) is very good to my brass too
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Could just be the angle of the pic. I’m happy I have the experience to not need the machines and For the price of those things I’ll stick with my torch and fingers and put the money in components instead. Pretty nice of Chris to share his toys.
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Could just be the angle of the pic. I’m happy I have the experience to not need the machines and For the price of those things I’ll stick with my torch and fingers and put the money in components instead. Pretty nice of Chris to share his toys.
has nothing to do with experience and everything to do with ease of use. I did it by hand for 15 years and could do it by hand for the next 15 but machine is easier no if ands or buts about it. And yes chris is a generous friend :tup:
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Anyone using their electric induction model or the torch ?
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I do it with the old drill and socket method. Usually not more than 100 at a time which doesn't take more than a 10 minutes if I get my son to feed casings.
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I'm learning.Seems that i am more a rookie at this than i thought.A lot goes into knowing how to hand load.Today i went to Cabelas in Marysville.Picking up all that is needed to fill my empties lol. on the shelf i see this .300 win mag case gauge. What is this i thought.Well a couple min. with one of the employees there and now i know.I went thru about a hundred cases that have been fully resized.These cases have all been fired 3-5 times with no annealing.I got 23 of them to sit in the case gauge and fall out,The rest stuck up about 3/8 in. and had to be pushed out.
Reloading: Always a learning curve. :tup: