Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Muzzleloader Hunting => Topic started by: slowhand on September 24, 2018, 09:04:04 AM
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What kind of groups and consistency should I be achieving from My open sights at 100 yards? The Target gets kind of small at that distance, LOL. I did some target shooting and scouting yesterday. all My shots would result in a dead Deer but not as consistent as I would like. drifting slightly to the left from dead center. Also I might be starting to notice some wear and tear on My eyes at age 42? :bash:
Input please.
Gun is dead center and consistent at 50 yard. I have no plans to shoot anything longer than 100 yards.
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I’m punching clays at 100 yards with peep sight
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100 yards should be no problem, roughly the same age and I competitively shoot. After shooting 5 or 10 rounds do you have a headache? Do your eyes have trouble refocusing after shooting? I ended up in bifocals but have shooting glasses with only my far Rx. Made a huge difference...that targets did not seem so far away when I could see clearly. Getting old sucks
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I recently removed the fibre optics from my muzzleloader, put on a williams peep and Lyman front globe (There’s a good write up on gohunt.com). Not a perfect setup, don’t like the dovetail ramp/globe (had to shim) also replaces the rear aperature with the “twilight” aperature. After working through all the little issues a can say 100 yards is EASY. My sights no longer cover the entire target and I can now aim for an actual spot. The twilight aperature made a more crisp sight picture.
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I would suggest to u-all, one of the keys to shooting long distance is not to cover the target with the bead of the front sight.
Recently I made a trip to the rock pit to shoot clay birds and even some chips with an Knight Western ULite with a NECG Peep sight and a Williams front ramp, fire sight, and fire sight hood. Most know that the Fire Sight bead is what seems like a very large bead (.060"). At 100 yards the bead will cover almost all of 3". So in my mind the way to defeat that is to use a what id called a 6 O'clock hold on the target. Basically place the point you want to hit on top of the sight. So it is a figure 8. Looking at the picture it would be like picture "H"
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tXB7wjv/Open_sight_pictures1.jpg)
This series of pictures will hopefully demonstrate the effectiveness of this method.
Rifle
(https://i.postimg.cc/gkgKFNh8/18-9_Western_Ulite.jpg)
Front Sight
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZqXGP6xv/Front_Bead.jpg)
Range
(https://i.postimg.cc/6pTf9nVS/18-9_100_yd._Range.jpg)
Target setup
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZSX93Hb/18-9_4_Bird_Set.jpg)
Random chips on the wall
(https://i.postimg.cc/q7hwGyzn/18-9_Chip_s.jpg)
Chips gone
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xq3g3Pxc/18-9_Chips_GONE.jpg)
Clean wall after shooting
(https://i.postimg.cc/0yNcbLvV/18-9_Birds_Gone.jpg)
Hope this might help some...
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Sabotloader - if I followed that correctly, are you saying that your point of impact should be right above the front bead (instead of using the bead as your POI)?
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Yup that is how I am taking it as well. He also has a neoprene sleeve raising his POI
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Interesting 8)
To close to season opener at this point but tempting.
Having the target covered is definetly part of my challenge
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Sabotloader - if I followed that correctly, are you saying that your point of impact should be right above the front bead (instead of using the bead as your POI)?
Yes, my point of impact is above the front bead... now to confuse the whole thing a little more I also sight the rifle in using 3"PBR. So what I am saying is @ 100 yards my bullet will impact right at 3" high and @ 150 yards it will be near true zero...
This ballistic sheet shows what I am trying to indicate.... and even in all of that I still use a figure 8 hold on the target so I see clearly where the bullet is going to impact (or I should say the planned impact point)
This ballistic sheet shows the effects of 3" PBR - so in effect I can shot from 0 yards to somewhere near 200 and never be higher than 3" or lower than 3"
(https://i.postimg.cc/63JdfZgR/Lehigh_452-265_CF-_HP.jpg)
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Great information, thank you!!
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Yup that is how I am taking it as well. He also has a neoprene sleeve raising his POI
The neoprene sleeve on the stock of the rifle is to get my eye up to the level of the peep. If and the way I place my chin on the stock I find I am looking below the peep. The sleeve is holding a stock swell pad in place.
You can see it pretty well in this picture...
(https://i.postimg.cc/k52FvH3F/ULite_Western.jpg)
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Am I understanding that you were hitting bulls-eye, with the occasional POI left-of-center?
My recommendation would be take breaks between shots if that's the case. It may be a fundamental issue more than your eyesight.
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Am I understanding that you were hitting bulls-eye, with the occasional POI left-of-center?
My recommendation would be take breaks between shots if that's the case. It may be a fundamental issue more than your eyesight.
Ya that, if you are consistently missing left of POA, there is something else, not you eye sight.
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I do it exactly like Sabotloader.
With a Williams peep site.
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I do it exactly like Sabotloader.
With a Williams peep site.
It is my belief that the Williams FP Peep and the Lyman SML are the best peeps out there maybe with the Lyman being slightly ahead of the Williams because of one added feature on the sight but they do not make a Lyman for the Knight application
This is my Williams on my DISC
(https://i.postimg.cc/v868PtjH/Williams_FP_Peep.jpg)
I truly believe the peep improves my open sight skills a lot!
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Once again Sabotloader, a true wealth of knowledge. Thank you!
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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Thank You to everyone for the great info.
I think next year I will invest in a peep sight setup and try out the 6 o'clock idea.
For this season I will keep the shots to a max of 100 Yards and a bit more practice.
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In order to be zerod at 100yrds, would I want to be about 1" high at 50yrds? I shoot 300gr bloodlines with 110gr fffg.
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I recently removed the fibre optics from my muzzleloader, put on a williams peep and Lyman front globe (There’s a good write up on gohunt.com). Not a perfect setup, don’t like the dovetail ramp/globe (had to shim) also replaces the rear aperature with the “twilight” aperature. After working through all the little issues a can say 100 yards is EASY. My sights no longer cover the entire target and I can now aim for an actual spot. The twilight aperature made a more crisp sight picture.
Another vote for this setup. Thankfully I didn't have the problems others commenting on that gohunt article had when mounting the front ramp/globe. And the Merit adjustable insert that I'm using with my rear peep really helps adjust for distance and light conditions. I did the peeprib instead of a standard rear peep, so I can add a scope for load development when I want. I love this setup.
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In order to be zerod at 100yrds, would I want to be about 1" high at 50yrds? I shoot 300gr bloodlines with 110gr fffg.
Just guessing but I think about 1.2-3" but you will not know until you shoot it and verify. Computed ballistic sheet should be considered inly a very close approximate information.