Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: MHWASH on January 03, 2019, 06:46:04 PM
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First, if you don’t agree with what I want to do, then move on.
I’m looking for a new cartridge rifle combo for shooting bears out to 700 yards.
I’ve been shooting out to 600 for several years now and feel confident to 600. 700 will come later.
Right now I have 6.5 CM in a Tikka Lite, and a blued 270 Win. I’m looking for a stainless rifle that will get treated badly, like sitting out under a tree all night in a rain storm. I’m considering a 7RM, 300WM and 300WSM. I’m also leaning real hard towards another Tikka. I know they have magazine length restraints, but for shots out to 700 I don’t think the real heavy, long bullets are necessary. No matter which magnum I get it will wear a brake. For portability reasons I don’t want a barrel over 24”+brake. I’d like to keep the price under $900 mostly because I don’t tend to hold on to rifles long. I’ve had a couple 7RMs and a 300WM with brake. Also I reload and have everything for the 7 & 300WM.
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@fillthefreezer is doing work with a Tikka Superlite .300 win mag at extended range.
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In a tikka I would go 300 wsm due to the magazine restriction. Load it with 190-200 grain bullets and run. A 7 mag and 175-180 could be a good fit also.
Though if your shooting factory ammo any will do fine
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I’m partial to the 300wsm. I used mine to thwack a big black bear at extended range. 200 eld-x handload. One shot and went 40 yards before piling up.
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I’d pick the 300wsm if I was you. Keep it in a little lighter shorter package than the other two magnums. Plus you’ve already had and played with the 7mag and 300winny might as well try a new cartridge :)
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Since you're wanting to keep the barrel at 24in. I'd go with a .30 cal over the 7mm/.284 cal. The 300 Win mag would be a very good choice and since you have already reloaded for the 300 Win. that seems like it'd be the obvious choice.
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I agree wit a lot of the others. I would go 300wsm.
I have one that I run 180 accubonds in a mildly upgraded t3. I shoot it to 800 regularly and always been happy with the gun and accuracy and bullet combo. If you get into some longer bullets and want to mod the magazine its pretty easy. I did it when I was running the bergers :tinfoil:
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7mm mag my choice
300 has more case capacity
7mm load data is conservative and can almost always go over max load data.
You just need to chose which bullet caliber you want.
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I have a 300wsm tikka/ husky 5-20x50 and shoot 180 ab’s with great results
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Use the 6.5 Creedmoor. How hard is it to kill a Washington Black Bear. Most are not much bigger than a large Black Lab.
Someone posted a picture of the 6.5 Creedmoor man. Handsome dude.. :chuckle:
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Savage 116 bear hunter in 300 wm. $800 with a 23” barrel,adj brake,accutrigger & accustock. Ready to go & savages almost always shoot.🤷♂️
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I would trust my Savage 111 in 300WM at 700 yards when it comes to power and so forth, I just don't trust my Nikon scope adjustments at that distance. Since you want a magnum caliber, I'd say 300 Win Mag.
The rifle selection is pretty good under $900, you can find a Sako A7 online for about $900 anyday, but Tikka and Savage would be a little cheaper.
Or if you don't feel like buying a new rifle, just practice a little more with your 6.5 CM and as long as you make an accurate heart/lung or head/neck/back shots , it'll get the job done just fine.
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How many bears have you shot this far?
Why 700 yards?
First, if you don’t agree with what I want to do, then move on.
I’m looking for a new cartridge rifle combo for shooting bears out to 700 yards.
I’ve been shooting out to 600 for several years now and feel confident to 600. 700 will come later.
Right now I have 6.5 CM in a Tikka Lite, and a blued 270 Win. I’m looking for a stainless rifle that will get treated badly, like sitting out under a tree all night in a rain storm. I’m considering a 7RM, 300WM and 300WSM. I’m also leaning real hard towards another Tikka. I know they have magazine length restraints, but for shots out to 700 I don’t think the real heavy, long bullets are necessary. No matter which magnum I get it will wear a brake. For portability reasons I don’t want a barrel over 24”+brake. I’d like to keep the price under $900 mostly because I don’t tend to hold on to rifles long. I’ve had a couple 7RMs and a 300WM with brake. Also I reload and have everything for the 7 & 300WM.
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you Already have a rifle that will kill bear at 700 yards. Put that money in components and get more confidence with the rifles you have.
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How many bears have you shot this far?
Why 700 yards?
First, if you don’t agree with what I want to do, then move on.
I’m looking for a new cartridge rifle combo for shooting bears out to 700 yards.
I’ve been shooting out to 600 for several years now and feel confident to 600. 700 will come later.
Right now I have 6.5 CM in a Tikka Lite, and a blued 270 Win. I’m looking for a stainless rifle that will get treated badly, like sitting out under a tree all night in a rain storm. I’m considering a 7RM, 300WM and 300WSM. I’m also leaning real hard towards another Tikka. I know they have magazine length restraints, but for shots out to 700 I don’t think the real heavy, long bullets are necessary. No matter which magnum I get it will wear a brake. For portability reasons I don’t want a barrel over 24”+brake. I’d like to keep the price under $900 mostly because I don’t tend to hold on to rifles long. I’ve had a couple 7RMs and a 300WM with brake. Also I reload and have everything for the 7 & 300WM.
I agree. Why 700 yards? Most, not all, places bears thrive, well one would have to work hard to create that opportunity for that shot. And if you do have the opp to shoot one this far, I would want a large a caliber as possible to anchor on the spot so no trailing job if bear makes it to the brush or lost. Not flaming the op, just an opinion
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Why not? :yeah:
There are a lot of places in this state that are open country.A 700 yard shot is pretty common,So is a 30 yard shot. :tup:
If this guy wants a new rifle that he can hunt bears out a little farther then great.
Unless i am missing something the op did not say he is wanting to harvest a bear at 700 yards,Has not said he harvested out to 600,Just that he has shot that far and is confident in his ability to do so.He hasn't even said he has harvested a bear yet at all,just that if he sees one out to 700 yards that he wants the right equipment to harvest it.
I would go with the .300 wsm. :tup:
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Of those 3 options I'd go with either of the 300s. Bear may not be all that hard to kill, but I've watched them take good hits and then run off and never be seen again. I watched a very nice 250# + bear take a 180gr Partition out of a 300 Win Mag to the chest at 45 yards when it stood up to look at us in a berry field. It ran off and we spent 6 hours searching for it; it was found and killed the following weekend with a hole in one lung from the week before. Similar story with a bear on the coast that took a 10ga slug at about 30 yards. That one was a quartering shot that hit one lung and the liver. We spent a total of 8 hours looking for that one before it was found and finished off. I'm not saying bear are hard to kill, but I'd rather have more gun than less no matter what I'm hunting.
As far as shooting at 700 yards, my favorite spot to bear hunt is a berry field about 650-700 yards away from my glassing point. I prefer to spot them from a distance so I can watch to see if it's a bear worth shooting or see if there's a cub around. It's hard to do that when you're working them at close range in the brush.
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How many bears have you shot this far?
Why 700 yards?
First, if you don’t agree with what I want to do, then move on.
I agree. Why 700 yards? Most, not all, places bears thrive, well one would have to work hard to create that opportunity for that shot. And if you do have the opp to shoot one this far, I would want a large a caliber as possible to anchor on the spot so no trailing job if bear makes it to the brush or lost. Not flaming the op, just an opinion
Obviously you have not hunted the areas I hunt, central Idaho, and the blue mountains. We’re almost always looking from one ridge to another. I’ve seen several bears 400 plus yards. 700 is my imposed limit because of the effort it takes to get to these spots once a shot has been taken. I’ve passed on several shots because of this reason alone.
The reason for a larger cartridge is I want a bullet with a high likely hood of a pass through. Most likely a monolithic, and something heavier than 140 grains.
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So many times ridge to ridge is 900-1050 it seems. 700 is sweet if it happens. 300 WSM for 700. 338 Edge for 900-1050.
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I like how you think. :yeah:
On another note why the edge over the factory RUM? no real difference except you have to make brass for 1 and not the other.A shooter might get more from a hand loaded edge over the factory RUM but if both are hand loaded no difference..? :dunno:
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in a tikka 300 wsm you can change the bolt stop to make it a long action and have plenty of room to seat the longer bullets out there. 2800 fps with 200-210gr bullet shouldn't be a problem.
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Why not? :yeah:
There are a lot of places in this state that are open country.A 700 yard shot is pretty common,So is a 30 yard shot. :tup:
700 yard for bear? No way I would do that, too much energy loss at that point. Have fun watching it run away in your scope.
Yea I realize there are pictures online of 12 year olds shooting little ones with 243s. A lot of those are east coast bears.
I put a slug in the chest of one here and it acted like I hit it with a rubber bullet.
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Why not? :yeah:
There are a lot of places in this state that are open country.A 700 yard shot is pretty common,So is a 30 yard shot. :tup:
700 yard for bear? No way I would do that, too much energy loss at that point. Have fun watching it run away in your scope.
Yea I realize there are pictures online of 12 year olds shooting little ones with 243s. A lot of those are east coast bears.
I put a slug in the chest of one here and it acted like I hit it with a rubber bullet.
my 243 has over 1000ft/lbs of energy at 700 yards. Granted it’s not your typical 243. Bear are not hard to kill with proper shot placement. I’ve killed several bear with 243. I wouldn’t hesitate to shoot a bear at 700 with any of the op’s cartridges on the list or that he already owns
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Why not? :yeah:
There are a lot of places in this state that are open country.A 700 yard shot is pretty common,So is a 30 yard shot. :tup:
700 yard for bear? No way I would do that, too much energy loss at that point. Have fun watching it run away in your scope.
Yea I realize there are pictures online of 12 year olds shooting little ones with 243s. A lot of those are east coast bears.
I put a slug in the chest of one here and it acted like I hit it with a rubber bullet.
Oh look another narrow minded post. I think some of you need to go back and read my first sentence.
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So it's like this......regardless of your request you will get opinions. Doesn't matter. You can roll with, ignore it, or make comments about people being ignorant, narrow minded, or whatever and basically turn people off from even commenting. Nature of an open forum.
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So it's like this......regardless of your request you will get opinions. Doesn't matter. You can roll with, ignore it, or make comments about people being ignorant, narrow minded, or whatever and basically turn people off from even commenting. Nature of an open forum.
Yep, I get it. It just de-rails the conversation. It’s easy to armchair quarter back it from behind a keyboard. (Stepping off soap box)
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I agree. You just gotta let it go.
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The distance in which you can't put 5 holes in a 9" tin pan is when you shouldn't take the shot. Many "internet superstars" can't at 200 yards with their magnums but will never admit it. :chuckle:
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The distance in which you can't put 5 holes in a 9" tin pan is when you shouldn't take the shot. Many "internet superstars" can't at 200 yards with their magnums but will never admit it. :chuckle:
:tup:
Fail to see how my initial question was not pertinent. Trying to help the guy
Did not mention how experienced he was at hunting bear, how many he has shot and how much long range experience shooting he has. Based on op initial post and not answering my question I could not give advice.
I don’t think it’s ethical as sportsmen to give advice on how to wound animals.Bears can be very tough to find even with good shots.
My advice is to first shoot a lot of rounds at distances with a 308 or similar ( at least 500) over a few months. Work on range, wid calcs etc which are needed at 700 yards. Good luck as a beginner shooter practicing with sub 10 lb with scope 300 win mag or bigger with 500 plus rounds
Or can go this route -I saw a video on YouTube where a guy shot an elk at 1200 yds with a 243 so I guess a 243 might be adequate for elk. He shot 8 times and stomach shot it but he filled his tag
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Don't go down that road folks.
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Or can go this route -I saw a video on YouTube where a guy shot an elk at 1200 yds with a 243 so I guess a 243 might be adequate for elk. He shot 8 times and stomach shot it but he filled his tag
Yea and no one posts a youtube video where a small gust of wind shifts the bullet and blows the elk's face off. That undoutedly happens far more than any of these long range shooters want to admit.
Up in the mountains there are no flags and you don't get to sit at a bench. Even at 600 yards from a bench you see people that do it as a hobby completely miss the target.
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Any of the calibers mentioned by the OP can get it done at 600-700 yards with the right bullet and placement. If you are set at getting another gun other than the 270 and 6.5 CM you already have, the 7RM or 300 are a coin toss. Cant go wrong with either.
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6.5 creedmoor is going to have less energy than a 10mm at that range.
So you are basically hitting it with a handgun round and then walking 7 football fields to start tracking where you shot it.
If you are lucky someone else will find it in the next gmu and finish it off.
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At the risk of sounding like a "know it all" here are a few thoughts to consider regarding long range bear hunting:
1. Most of the serious long range hunters I know are very capable and responsible about knowing (not guessing) they can make a shot on game, or they don't take the shot
2. I would just like to warn, I've seen hundreds of game animals shot, I consider bear to be tougher to bring down than deer or elk
3. In most cases if you don't hit vitals you don't kill the bear, even hit in vitals it seems like you need to break them down and stop them, bear often do not leave much of a blood trail
4. I request that most of my hunters do not shoot bear beyond 200 or 300 yards because due to past experience the recovery rate drops dramatically at longer distances
I know there are always exceptions but these are good thoughts to consider. :twocents:
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Makes one think about all the bears that are killed each year with a bow and arrow at 40-50 yards.
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Makes one think about all the bears that are killed each year with a bow and arrow at 40-50 yards.
Was thinking the same thing :chuckle: although archery gear sure does seem to tear up game almost better than a bullet at times! With massive blood trails to boot!Only bear I’ve ever shot was with a bow! Decided I don’t like messing with them after that.
If these guys would reread the original post he does state he has been shooting out to 600 and feels comfortable there expecting to extend his range.... not once did he state that he was looking to begin hunting at ELR ranges. Sounds like to me he’s just looking for a new toy that he intends to practice with and hunt bear with.
I still say 300wsm because it will be a new caliber that you have not yet played with mhwash!
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At the risk of sounding like a "know it all" here are a few thoughts to consider regarding long range bear hunting:
1. Most of the serious long range hunters I know are very capable and responsible about knowing (not guessing) they can make a shot on game, or they don't take the shot
2. I would just like to warn, I've seen hundreds of game animals shot, I consider bear to be tougher to bring down than deer or elk
3. In most cases if you don't hit vitals you don't kill the bear, even hit in vitals it seems like you need to break them down and stop them, bear often do not leave much of a blood trail
4. I request that most of my hunters do not shoot bear beyond 200 or 300 yards because due to past experience the recovery rate drops dramatically at longer distances
I know there are always exceptions but these are good thoughts to consider. :twocents:
☝Agree and well said Bearpaw
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6.5 creedmoor is going to have less energy than a 10mm at that range.
So you are basically hitting it with a handgun round and then walking 7 football fields to start tracking where you shot it.
If you are lucky someone else will find it in the next gmu and finish it off.
Come on now, every other day somebody is posting about getting a 10mm for bear protection and everybody talks about how great the 10mm is. :dunno:
At the risk of sounding like a "know it all" here are a few thoughts to consider regarding long range bear hunting:
1. Most of the serious long range hunters I know are very capable and responsible about knowing (not guessing) they can make a shot on game, or they don't take the shot
2. I would just like to warn, I've seen hundreds of game animals shot, I consider bear to be tougher to bring down than deer or elk
3. In most cases if you don't hit vitals you don't kill the bear, even hit in vitals it seems like you need to break them down and stop them, bear often do not leave much of a blood trail
4. I request that most of my hunters do not shoot bear beyond 200 or 300 yards because due to past experience the recovery rate drops dramatically at longer distances
I know there are always exceptions but these are good thoughts to consider. :twocents:
Don't let your logic and first hand experience get in the way of a good internet debate! :chuckle: I would have suggested something in the 338 or larger category except it sounds like the OP likes the Tikka. Now if I could get my hands on a T3 Superlite in 338 RUM I'd be all over that!!
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Fail to see how my initial question was not pertinent. Trying to help the guy
Did not mention how experienced he was at hunting bear, how many he has shot and how much long range experience shooting he has. Based on op initial post and not answering my question I could not give advice.
I said in my original post that I've been shooting out to 600 yards for several years.
I have shot a total of 1.
this spring I passed up 4 because they were in the wrong spot or the conditions were not right. Last spring I passed up two for the same reasons.
I don’t think it’s ethical as sportsmen to give advice on how to wound animals.Bears can be very tough to find even with good shots.
My advice is to first shoot a lot of rounds at distances with a 308 or similar ( at least 500) over a few months. Work on range, wid calcs etc which are needed at 700 yards. Good luck as a beginner shooter practicing with sub 10 lb with scope 300 win mag or bigger with 500 plus rounds
Until I got my Creed this summer, most of my shooting was with my 270.
Or can go this route -I saw a video on YouTube where a guy shot an elk at 1200 yds with a 243 so I guess a 243 might be adequate for elk. He shot 8 times and stomach shot it but he filled his tag
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Seems like 300 RUM, 30 Nosler, 300 Win Mag would be good choices, per your original post.
Lots of energy left at 700 yards. Great choice of stout bullets.
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I like how you think. :yeah:
On another note why the edge over the factory RUM? no real difference except you have to make brass for 1 and not the other.A shooter might get more from a hand loaded edge over the factory RUM but if both are hand loaded no difference..? :dunno:
The 338 edge has a bit more capacity figure 100 fps. The 338 rum is getting so scarce now mite as well do the edge which is much more popular if building or rebarreling. Main reason tho is you can reach 3000 fps with a 300 gr which was a magical threshold of performance by many for years before arrival of the 195 gr 7mm and 215/230 gr 300 wm started reaching out to 1000 yards on a lighter recoil platform.
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300 UM cases used for the Edge is way more available then 338 UM for the handloader
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As bullet design and performance has advanced. Especially in the last 5 years, long range bore diameter have become smaller on the average. Cartridges such as the .338 Ulta, .338 Edge and such are used by fewer and fewer and replaced by lighter, smaller, high BC bullets driven by smaller much more efficient cartridges. Giving the same down range performs on game as the big .338's. Newer more advanced powders have played a big part also.
The .300 Win Mag is a top performer for the hand loader and the .300 WSM is more of the same in a slightly smaller lighter package. I own both the .300 in a heavy and the WSM in a sporter weight. Only the terrain I will be hunting decides which one I field for the day. Both are very capable of crushing the average scrawny WA black bear (AKA Forest Rat) at distance.
A 10mm will kill a black bear as dead as they can get.
Heavy, quality .284 diameters is where it's at. :tup:
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With what you want to do I would look at .300 ultra, .300 win mag maybe .338 mags. No real reason to get a wildcat unless you want to. 700 yards is a poke, but there are lots of rounds capable of that.
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Come on now, every other day somebody is posting about getting a 10mm for bear protection and everybody talks about how great the 10mm is. :dunno:
I see your point but a 10mm used in defense is going to come from a semi-auto. I definitely wouldn't want a 10mm for bear protection if I only had one shot.
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Makes one think about all the bears that are killed each year with a bow and arrow at 40-50 yards.
Well average is going to be closer to 20-30 but the important difference is that the archer in that case would have a much better chance at hitting the vitals.
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6.5 creedmoor is going to have less energy than a 10mm at that range.
So you are basically hitting it with a handgun round and then walking 7 football fields to start tracking where you shot it.
If you are lucky someone else will find it in the next gmu and finish it off.
Come on now, every other day somebody is posting about getting a 10mm for bear protection and everybody talks about how great the 10mm is. :dunno:
At the risk of sounding like a "know it all" here are a few thoughts to consider regarding long range bear hunting:
1. Most of the serious long range hunters I know are very capable and responsible about knowing (not guessing) they can make a shot on game, or they don't take the shot
2. I would just like to warn, I've seen hundreds of game animals shot, I consider bear to be tougher to bring down than deer or elk
3. In most cases if you don't hit vitals you don't kill the bear, even hit in vitals it seems like you need to break them down and stop them, bear often do not leave much of a blood trail
4. I request that most of my hunters do not shoot bear beyond 200 or 300 yards because due to past experience the recovery rate drops dramatically at longer distances
I know there are always exceptions but these are good thoughts to consider. :twocents:
Don't let your logic and first hand experience get in the way of a good internet debate! :chuckle: I would have suggested something in the 338 or larger category except it sounds like the OP likes the Tikka. Now if I could get my hands on a T3 Superlite in 338 RUM I'd be all over that!!
First hand, real world experience usually gets trumped by Googler experience on hunt wa..😉
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As bullet design and performance has advanced. Especially in the last 5 years, long range bore diameter have become smaller on the average. Cartridges such as the .338 Ulta, .338 Edge and such are used by fewer and fewer and replaced by lighter, smaller, high BC bullets driven by smaller much more efficient cartridges. Giving the same down range performs on game as the big .338's. Newer more advanced powders have played a big part also.
The .300 Win Mag is a top performer for the hand loader and the .300 WSM is more of the same in a slightly smaller lighter package. I own both the .300 in a heavy and the WSM in a sporter weight. Only the terrain I will be hunting decides which one I field for the day. Both are very capable of crushing the average scrawny WA black bear (AKA Forest Rat) at distance.
A 10mm will kill a black bear as dead as they can get.
Heavy, quality .284 diameters is where it's at. :tup:
Forest rat, not the first time I've heard that lol! Hmm...
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6.5 creedmoor is going to have less energy than a 10mm at that range.
So you are basically hitting it with a handgun round and then walking 7 football fields to start tracking where you shot it.
If you are lucky someone else will find it in the next gmu and finish it off.
Come on now, every other day somebody is posting about getting a 10mm for bear protection and everybody talks about how great the 10mm is. :dunno:
At the risk of sounding like a "know it all" here are a few thoughts to consider regarding long range bear hunting:
1. Most of the serious long range hunters I know are very capable and responsible about knowing (not guessing) they can make a shot on game, or they don't take the shot
2. I would just like to warn, I've seen hundreds of game animals shot, I consider bear to be tougher to bring down than deer or elk
3. In most cases if you don't hit vitals you don't kill the bear, even hit in vitals it seems like you need to break them down and stop them, bear often do not leave much of a blood trail
4. I request that most of my hunters do not shoot bear beyond 200 or 300 yards because due to past experience the recovery rate drops dramatically at longer distances
I know there are always exceptions but these are good thoughts to consider. :twocents:
Don't let your logic and first hand experience get in the way of a good internet debate! :chuckle: I would have suggested something in the 338 or larger category except it sounds like the OP likes the Tikka. Now if I could get my hands on a T3 Superlite in 338 RUM I'd be all over that!!
First hand, real world experience usually gets trumped by Googler experience on hunt wa..😉
That's definitely not what I see.
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The 300 wsm gets my vote. It is a ballistic twin to the WM but can usually be had in a handier rifle. Run some of the 200 lrx bullets and dont look back. How far you shoot and practice and with what calibers is your decision but I think it is best to practice with what you hunt with as much as possible.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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@fillthefreezer is doing work with a Tikka Superlite .300 win mag at extended range.
I’m very happy with my tikka overall for what I use it for. It hangs well in a group of high end and full custom rifles. I’d thread on a faster barrel though, before starting load development if it were me.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/77f10b00ca35ef8336543d3199fac3f4.jpg)
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Makes one think about all the bears that are killed each year with a bow and arrow at 40-50 yards.
Cant imagine its many, and on the other hand, makes me wonder how many are wounded at that range and never recovered, and you never hear about the ones that get away........
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@fillthefreezer is doing work with a Tikka Superlite .300 win mag at extended range.
I’m very happy with my tikka overall for what I use it for. It hangs well in a group of high end and full custom rifles. I’d thread on a faster barrel though, before starting load development if it were me.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/77f10b00ca35ef8336543d3199fac3f4.jpg)
I did a search and found you’re build thread. Very inspirational, I’ll most likely go the Tikka 300WM route.
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My ph # is kicking around here lots of places if you ever have in depth questions.
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Sako A7 in 300WM, they make a version with a threaded barrel so you can just slap a brake on. Only downside is the twist rate on the Tikka's and Sako's, but if you aren't interested in shooting heavier bullets it'd be a great choice. A 180g Berger Elite Hunter would pair perfectly with that setup.
If you want to shoot some 210+ grain pills I'd go Browning X-Bolt, they're slapping 1:8 twist barrels on their newest X-Bolts.
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Sako A7 in 300WM, they make a version with a threaded barrel so you can just slap a brake on. Only downside is the twist rate on the Tikka's and Sako's, but if you aren't interested in shooting heavier bullets it'd be a great choice. A 180g Berger Elite Hunter would pair perfectly with that setup.
If you want to shoot some 210+ grain pills I'd go Browning X-Bolt, they're slapping 1:8 twist barrels on their newest X-Bolts.
Love my Sakos
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Sako A7 in 300WM, they make a version with a threaded barrel so you can just slap a brake on. Only downside is the twist rate on the Tikka's and Sako's, but if you aren't interested in shooting heavier bullets it'd be a great choice. A 180g Berger Elite Hunter would pair perfectly with that setup.
If you want to shoot some 210+ grain pills I'd go Browning X-Bolt, they're slapping 1:8 twist barrels on their newest X-Bolts.
Love my Sakos
Great rifles for sure👍
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I’ve.pretty much decided on the 300 WM, now just looking to find the right rifle.
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That would be a good choice👍
But. Then again, a good ole '06, 270 or like caliber would get you there. A 7×57 would get you close..😉
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I’ve.pretty much decided on the 300 WM, now just looking to find the right rifle.
Tough to argue with that choice.
Good luck!
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Look here in the forum,Usually quite a few go on here reasonably priced. :tup:
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I’ve.pretty much decided on the 300 WM, now just looking to find the right rifle.
Great choice. It will cover you from A-Z in North American and abroad.
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i love these threads....
price of a 6 pack of 16 oz ice beers to read these threads---$6
can of grizzly chew to get me through these threads - $4
satisfaction i get when i learn that you can kill a bear from a 45 lb compound bow to a 338 lapua--priceless
THANK YOU for the entertainment
:brew:
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i love these threads....
price of a 6 pack of 16 oz ice beers to read these threads---$6
can of grizzly chew to get me through these threads - $4
satisfaction i get when i learn that you can kill a bear from a 45 lb compound bow to a 338 lapua--priceless
THANK YOU for the entertainment
:brew:
If it took you 3/4 or a gallon of beer to read this thread you must have a reading comprehension problem. :dunno:
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i love these threads....
price of a 6 pack of 16 oz ice beers to read these threads---$6
can of grizzly chew to get me through these threads - $4
satisfaction i get when i learn that you can kill a bear from a 45 lb compound bow to a 338 lapua--priceless
THANK YOU for the entertainment
:brew:
If it took you 3/4 or a gallon of beer to read this thread you must have a reading comprehension problem. :dunno:
or a beer bong
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i love these threads....
price of a 6 pack of 16 oz ice beers to read these threads---$6
can of grizzly chew to get me through these threads - $4
satisfaction i get when i learn that you can kill a bear from a 45 lb compound bow to a 338 lapua--priceless
THANK YOU for the entertainment
:brew:
If it took you 3/4 or a gallon of beer to read this thread you must have a reading comprehension problem. :dunno:
no i just have the new filter that lets me follow the biggest f' tards on the web and not surpirisingly you are on the top of the list
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Wow..put the beers down and keep it civil guys..
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Don't take the troll bait.
It was a perfectly good thread, and nobody is forced to read it.
Besides, you went with a great caliber. :tup:
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Would add, of the 27 bears I have been fortunate to harvest, one was a clean cross basin shot at just shy of 600 yards with a 300 Winchester mag and 180 ballistic tip. Left shoulder blade and both lungs, down on the spot! The rest, not one over 150 yard, several under 10 yards...
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I’ve.pretty much decided on the 300 WM, now just looking to find the right rifle.
Great choice. It will cover you from A-Z in North American and abroad.
:yeah: love mine, it does very well. Top it off w a huskemaw scope, use the 190 grn burger bullet and your good to go! Except, practice, practice, practice!
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My choice is 7 mag less recoil equals more pratice, higher per weight bc and more than enough energy at 700 for black bear.
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Thought I would update this thread. I picked up a like new Tikka 300WM, add a MBM brake and mounted my Burris Veracity 2-10. Will be hunting both Idaho and WA spring bear with it this year.
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They are going to hear the shot report from that beast in the next county! Congrats on the thunderstick.
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Congrats on the rifle and spring bear draw.