Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: sparksbr on March 27, 2009, 01:56:59 PM
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The rifle is a Ruger M77 standard, walnut stock, in 280 Rem. I plan on keeping the factory barrel.
What would everyone recommend?
Just trying to develop a list of ideas... Thanks
-Brady
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you could drop the trigger poundage, for my consistency. i know some ppl use that limbsaver barrel de-resonator i hear it helps with closing the groups.
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How accurate is it now?
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make sure the barrel floats and the tang floats with a dollar bill, bed the action and have the trigger worked, adjusted if possible or replaced with a timney or rifle basix or something like that.
hand loads could produce better results if you're a reloader.
the best 1 thing i think is trigger work.
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How accurate is it now?
that would probably be the best 1st question.
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How accurate is it now?
The rifle has never been a tack driver...Ever since I purchased it, it's always had a problem with consistency (flyers), even with several different types of factory ammo. The trigger has a decent break for a factory set-up, definitely not the worst I've ever come across. The barrel is already free-floated from the action forward.
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I think you should sell it to me....
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make sure the barrel floats and the tang floats with a dollar bill, bed the action and have the trigger worked, adjusted if possible or replaced with a timney or rifle basix or something like that.
hand loads could produce better results if you're a reloader.
the best 1 thing i think is trigger work.
Jackelope has the right idea. Here is what I would do... Buy a nice stock. I just purchased a A5 for my 338 RUM. float the barrel and bed the action. THat should get your accuracy closer.
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I was
make sure the barrel floats and the tang floats with a dollar bill, bed the action and have the trigger worked, adjusted if possible or replaced with a timney or rifle basix or something like that.
hand loads could produce better results if you're a reloader.
the best 1 thing i think is trigger work.
Jackelope has the right idea. Here is what I would do... Buy a nice stock. I just purchased a A5 for my 338 RUM. float the barrel and bed the action. THat should get your accuracy closer.
Thanks for all the recommendations! It's much appreciated!
Lately I have been considering an H-S Precision stock for the improved durability and weather resistance over walnut.
Has anyone ever considered action blueprinting, lug lapping, etc.? Or is it even worth the time and money?
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Accurizing a hunting rifle works best when one has a plan with properly identified goals. This helps prevent a waste of time and money and will create desired results. PM sent.
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make sure the barrel floats and the tang floats with a dollar bill, bed the action and have the trigger worked, adjusted if possible or replaced with a timney or rifle basix or something like that.
hand loads could produce better results if you're a reloader.
the best 1 thing i think is trigger work.
+1
Bedding is cheap and you can do it yourself, pm me for info. Same with floating the barrel. Easy to do shouldn't cost you more than 2 bucks to float the barrel, hell you probably have everything you need :)
Lighten the trigger, if it's occasional recreational and hunting then don't worry about a new trigger, however if you want to shoot a lot consider a timney.
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:)You need to know why it is inconsistant and why there are fliers.... triggers stocks etc, might help or not.
Is the action square with the barrel, is the barrel any good, do the bolt lugs lock up squarely with the barrel? are you a good enough machinist to know or measure?
If your car quits do you just start repairing/throwing new parts on until it works? Or do you diagnose or take to someone who can??
Carl
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It sounds like there is alot more to this troubleshooting than I previously anticipated!
Bofire and Crisptrigr both summed it up very nicely...
Thanks everyone! :)
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Has anyone ever considered action blueprinting, lug lapping, etc.? Or is it even worth the time and money?
It helps a ton. I have seen numerous Ruger barrels, rimfire, that have the chambers set and get recrowned with results that match, and many times exceed, aftermarket barrels.
There is a guy local to me that does 10/22 barrels. But Randy at CPC does the 77/xx, including the hornet, barrels with the bolt and chamber work also. He probably can't do the centerfires but he might be able to lead you in the right direction.
http://www.ct-precision.com/
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Thanks Mookie!
I have heard that damage to the crown can greatly affect accuracy!
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And please keep in mind that free floatings is not a fix all nor is it recomended for every gun. Most thin profile barrels shoot better with some pressure on the barrle at the forend, I see some that dont shoot well until 8-10 lbs pressure is achived.
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Jackalope wrote
"make sure the barrel floats and the tang floats with a dollar bill, bed the action"
I agree. Turned mine from medeocre to awsome. I kept the same factory wood stock, bbl & trigger group. Just bedded the action and floated the barrel. Drives nails year after year. That and finding the right bullet. Mine (6mm) loves Sierra 100gr BT. Won't shoot flat base as well.
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http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,22159.0.html (http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,22159.0.html) Probably one of the best threads I've seen on making a rifle more accurate.