Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: boneaddict on November 28, 2019, 09:04:31 AM
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I've been thinking about getting a generator in case of outages. I have a 1500 watt little guy which just wont cut it if I needed it for anything but powering a lightbulb. I ahve a saltwater reef tank which is very vulnerable to temperature fluctuations and in interuptions in waterflow. I have a battery back up system for it but it will only last about 17 hours. Ive dreamed of a generac, but installation costs almost as much as the unit itself and I dont have 10K to spare. I thought about sticking with code and having an electrician hardwire a transfer switch in and or a plug in. Ive also thought about since this is emergency only, I could just flip my main and plug the thing in. I know they advise against that for electrocution reasons but.... I also find it interesting that two 9kws are cheaper than one 12kw. Is it that much of a disadvantage of running two in parallel other than noise and gas.....
all opinions welcome even those that arent safe or compliant :chuckle:
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mine is NOT code :chuckle:
I think if an electrician seen mine he'd shake his head and go na na na na see no evil hear no evil na na na na and walk away shaking his head
but it works and it was cheap, and besides I live rural and we just do things like that in stevens county :tung:
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Now see, I appreciate that kind of answer. :chuckle:
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so "hypothetically" speaking ;)
one could utilize an existing 220 box on the side of their house, like for an AC unit or hot tub and tie into that.
You could make special 120v lines and tie two black wires of your 120v plugs to each leg of your 220v outlet, then tie your common white lines together and run to the common in your fuse panel.
that would give you 220v to the whole house and power both legs of your fuse box and it seems to be working great (hypothetically speaking of course)
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If a "Person" was to go to Lowes and buy the gen. plug and a dryer plug and some proper 30+amp wire in theory you "could" unplug the clothes dryer turn off main power supply, (Gen Transfer switch recommended) and plug your outdoor gen into dryer plug. 3500w 30amps 220v. Well, light or two, fridge etc. It is redneck yes. It works great. Be safe and smart and this isn't legal either.
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I have one of these in my off grid cabin to switch from generator power to inverter.
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-GENERATOR-SWITCH-Generator-UNIVERSAL/dp/B00FADDE0A/ref=asc_df_B00FADDE0A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064505516&hvpos=1o9&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6502024846375847600&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033394&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-320968523428&psc=1
It works well and was easy to install.
Code? What code?
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Be sure that you don't back-power the grid. That would endanger any repair people working on the lines.
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I would take inventory of all the things you want to power and that'll dictate the size of your generator.
electric water heaters? 1, 2 more?
deep well pump?
house heat? electric gas?
lights x?
fridge, freezers?
generac has a nice calculator. If you have gas heat and city water that makes it pretty easy, a 5500w generator will power *most *of what you need, it'll keep the fridges running, lights on and your fish warm., but don't run the clothes dryer and toaster oven
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Backup generator is a great idea, if you are wanting to run the entire house with no limits then one of the big generators will suit you. If you are just wanting your fish tank, fridge/freezers, and some lights then a much smaller generator would work.
As far as flipping the main and plugging it in to a socket goes, the big hazard there is not to you... if you miss a step or do something wrong, the hazard is to the line crews working in the area or your neighbor that decides to move some downed wire out of his driveway (Bad idea), as the back feed through your transformer will step up the voltage back to 7200 volts or whatever the nominal voltage of your feeder is. Spend the extra cash and have an electrician do it :twocents:
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Be sure that you don't back-power the grid. That would endanger any repair people working on the lines.
:yeah:
but the actual threat of this is very very low, truth is so many people have so many things running its virtually impossible to back feed the system, it'll pop the generator overload fuses like instantly.
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I wouldnt be on an auto set up....so the first thing I'd do would be to switch the main power off at the meter. That would stop backfeed or the other way when the power came back on.
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I have a 6500 watt Honda propane generator. It backs up my entire house. I have had to use it on numerous occasions where I live. I do not heat with electricity, are yous wood. I also cook with propane and have a propane hot water heater. Don't get less than 5 KW and have it properly wired in with a electrician putting in a switch.
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Be sure that you don't back-power the grid. That would endanger any repair people working on the lines.
:yeah:
but the actual threat of this is very very low, truth is so many people have so many things running its virtually impossible to back feed the system, it'll pop the generator overload fuses like instantly.
There is a lot of assumptions you are making here. If you live in a rural area and maybe just you and a few neighbors are fed of the the same tap line... your line is down towards the source or a lineman has made an open... now you are heating things up. Not trying to bust anyone’s balls here but DONT be the Ahole that kills somebody just to save a few hundred bucks
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I mentioned this in past posts but this will help your situation.
1 while the power is on map out the lights, plug ins and such in your house. take this map that has the breakers on it and put it in a ziplock bag and tape it to the inside door of your breaker box.
2 make a list of circuits that you must have to power necessities. likely the outlet you have for your fish tank also has a light on it. I doubt you need to light the whole house, and powering the whole house up draws power.
3 Figure out how many Amps each of the necessities need to start up and run. This should help.
https://www.rcpw.com/rip/repair/generators/calculating-generator-output.html
I had a 7500watt generator that i used for almost 2 weeks one time. It ran my refrigerator, 2 freezers, some lights, and the fan for the natural gas furnace. I ran it about 8-10hs a day not the whole time i was out.
I had not done any of these things before hand, it would have made my life much easier.
If you are going to disconnect your main breaker and back feed the panel it is quite helpful if you can plug your generator to a high amperage plug in like what you might use for a welder or electric cloths dryer. You can burn your house down overloading a simple 120 outlet to charge the pannel.
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Personally I'd like to put a 50 amp plug right after the meter. That way the generator could be out at my garage to decrease sound. Do you need them covered at all from rain or snow?
I'm assuming if an electrician did it, theyd say no to that and put the transfer switch in the house next to the mother board and the plug in would be just outside there.
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I have a 6500 on a manual transfer switch. My house is 1700 sq feet, 3 bedrooms, 2 1/2 baths. I have gas furnace, water heater, stove and oven. I have all my main lights, bathrooms, furnace motor, 2 fridges and 2 freezers, kitchen and Internet router/phones all on generator. I upgraded my panel, since my house is a 1967 tri-level with a 40amp service. I now have 200amp service capability. I am running 125amps right now through that panel. It has a master breaker, unlike the old panel. So, I have two panels. The new panel feeds the old panel, which feeds to transfer switch. I do not have the automatic transfer switch. My generator is attached to the house, locked in place and can take care of everything mentioned.
I plan to put a conditioner on the power line this summer.
I want to move some of the 40amp service to the new panel, to spread the breaker load out.
The guy who owned the house before me was great at deconstruction and horrible at construction. So, lots of work to move things around and to clean up has messes.
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Be sure that you don't back-power the grid. That would endanger any repair people working on the lines.
:yeah:
but the actual threat of this is very very low, truth is so many people have so many things running its virtually impossible to back feed the system, it'll pop the generator overload fuses like instantly.
:bash: Perhaps but the last large wind storm Spokane had and it knocked over trees in northwest Spokane folks by Albi were out for days because of the resident's feeding their panels with generators. Avista had to go trip the cutouts to isolate the areas and then bring on the power a small section at a time.
As others have suggested to consult a qualified electrician. I have gone and looked at some hillbilly installs in Stevens county and just shook my head. Yes KF you do have some creative folks up there. When we lose power you can here the generators start just like dominos.
Then again I don't rely on you tube for this. But I have dabbled in the electrical field for over 45 years.
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Be sure that you don't back-power the grid. That would endanger any repair people working on the lines.
:yeah:
but the actual threat of this is very very low, truth is so many people have so many things running its virtually impossible to back feed the system, it'll pop the generator overload fuses like instantly.
There is a lot of assumptions you are making here. If you live in a rural area and maybe just you and a few neighbors are fed of the the same tap line... your line is down towards the source or a lineman has made an open... now you are heating things up. Not trying to bust anyone’s balls here but DONT be the Ahole that kills somebody just to save a few hundred bucks
I think you are also legally responcible for manslaughter as well
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I don't disagree
people doing this should possess enough knowledge to not charge the main lines
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No worries about charging the main lines here. No need to discuss it further. Point already known and acknowledged
My two biggest draws are deep well and central air. Central air is huge I understand. I have backup propane heat, but the fan is dead with power out. This could be resolved by powering that outlet and heat wouldnt be an issue. Many of my power outages occur in summer because of fire. That wouldnt solve that problem. Thats the main one I dont have a clue what the actual draw is. I dont really on well either but think I can find out. Running amps isnt that much on it, but starting amps is probably a good 3x that.
I think the rest can be handled (fridge, freezerx2, tank fans and pumps, lights etc.) I wouldnt be worried about laundry. Hotwater heater is electric.
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Its stuck in my craw that the pump is a 3hp pump. Its down 400 feet. I'm not positive. It might just be 1hp. My memory isnt what it used to be.
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I have a Honda 2000 and it's enough to run what we need in a storm as our house is all gas. We also have underground service from the substation to my panel so we only loose power for an hour every couple of years at the most. If we regularly lost power I would have something more, but this is perfect.
Yeah, don't feed power back, it's not legal and you can kill someone. If you don't understand this, probably time for a licensed electrician.
90% of the time, the power goes out because there is a line down or a tree or something else shorting it out. Thus, someone will be out to fix it buy putting their hands on a bare conductor and they shouldn't have to risk their lives because some guy thinks he knows better.
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Any Generac guys here? Those things look incredible. I dont think my power goes off enough to warrant one.
This all being said, I might be about to lose my job of 20+ years and may have to move. I'm also trying to factor that in my decision making process. Portable ....in other words
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I've been thinking about some of those government auctions and those generators on trailers, I would make it permanent but you could leave it on a trailer?
Those newer transfer switches would know to turn off your water heaters when your well pump asked for power depending on how you set up the priorities, the point is you can do much more with much less of a generator with smart switch technology. $$$
I do want a proper whole home solution but it's a crap ton of money and hard to think about when the power is on.
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I do want a proper whole home solution but it's a crap ton of money and hard to think about when the power is on.
They are about half the cost of a sled or 4 Wheeler.
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Wiring in a transfer switch is pretty darn easy. Not sure if it has to be done by an electrician but ...... I bought a honda motor knock of generator at costco for about 1k. It is 6800 watts at peak. Transfer switch cost me about $350 (8 circuit) and about an hour to install. I only run non ethanol, and fuel it up in October. Start it up every other week to run for 10 minutes until March. Then drain the fuel let it run dry and put it away. Only thing I would do different was to buy a 10 circuit switch instead of an 8.
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Thank you Crunchy, those are smart tips!
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Wiring in a transfer switch is pretty darn easy. Not sure if it has to be done by an electrician but ...... I bought a honda motor knock of generator at costco for about 1k. It is 6800 watts at peak. Transfer switch cost me about $350 (8 circuit) and about an hour to install. I only run non ethanol, and fuel it up in October. Start it up every other week to run for 10 minutes until March. Then drain the fuel let it run dry and put it away. Only thing I would do different was to buy a 10 circuit switch instead of an 8.
:yeah:
Technically it has to be done by a licensed electrician. I see you are running a well but what about septic? When I built my home I wired in a transfer switch and bought a 12,000 kw Honda Power Boss at Costco and it's big enough to run the well, septic and everything else. It's pretty simple to do.
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Septic? Pressurized? I'm not familiar with that. Mine is all downhill...
what size genny did you get at costco?
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I have a meter box with a fuse panel outside, that powers the shop and I've added an RV outlet to it as well.
Then I have breakers that run to the house where I have another panel inside the house.
So I flip the main inside the house to off, and I flip the house breakers on the outside meter box to off as well. That just leaves the shop hooked to the grid, so I turn on the shop lights and when the power comes back on that's my indicator to turn the generator off and flip the house breakers and main back to ON
I'd like to install a generator transfer to that outside meter panel, it should be pretty easy but I need to pull the meter off to do it. I've never cut that meter tab thing off, but others have told me no big deal Avista would just put on a new one. They're going to be installing a smart meter sometime this summer, so I need to clean up my DIY wiring :chuckle:
Is it a big deal to cut the tab off and pull off the meter?
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Im gravity. I am one of the few homes in the area that "purked".
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Septic? Pressurized? I'm not familiar with that. Mine is all downhill...
what size genny did you get at costco?
My folks had a septic with a float that pumped grey water down the road to mound system. I wired them up with a transfer switch and a duel fuel (gas and propane) 12,000 kw generator. Wasn't sure if you were hooked up to sewer, gravity etc... For my place I got a Honda Power Pro 12,000 kw gas generator. Like was said above, run ONLY non ethanol fuel in it and run it out at the end of the season.
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When I had my house built I had it wired for a BU Generator and had a 1k gallon propane tank installed and stubbed out. I have researched the Generac and similar to the point of exhaustion but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I need it to ensure that I can water stock, run the freezers and fireplace fan. We have multiple longer outages throughout the year.
From what I can gather about the Generac, there are tons of great reviews from people who don't actually use them. When people actually need it, there are a ton of bad reviews (hurricanes, etc.). There are also a ton of bad reviews when it comes to Warranty, availability of service tech's, and the amount of maintenance needed to keep it up to the manual.
My Brother-in-law is an electrician and has wired quite a few Generac's (at least a dozen or 2) and he says they work great when they install but once again, doesn't know anyone who has actually needed it.
I have come to the conclusion that what I really need to do is get a Diesel Generator and then store a few hundred gallons of Diesel (I'll use it for the tractor too). There seems to be quite a few mil surplus and other Diesel generators available. They are big enough and seem to be easy to work on and there are many more Diesel tech's to be found then Generac tech's.
I am also thinking of getting one on a trailer so I can move it with me too.
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The neighbor and I each bought 10,000 watt loud generators off harbor freight for $1000. They have lasted 15 years, we are on wells, all electric, they have not let us down. I had an electrician just wire in a plug that feeds the entire panel.
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When I had my house built I had it wired for a BU Generator and had a 1k gallon propane tank installed and stubbed out. I have researched the Generac and similar to the point of exhaustion but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I need it to ensure that I can water stock, run the freezers and fireplace fan. We have multiple longer outages throughout the year.
From what I can gather about the Generac, there are tons of great reviews from people who don't actually use them. When people actually need it, there are a ton of bad reviews (hurricanes, etc.). There are also a ton of bad reviews when it comes to Warranty, availability of service tech's, and the amount of maintenance needed to keep it up to the manual.
My Brother-in-law is an electrician and has wired quite a few Generac's (at least a dozen or 2) and he says they work great when they install but once again, doesn't know anyone who has actually needed it.
I have come to the conclusion that what I really need to do is get a Diesel Generator and then store a few hundred gallons of Diesel (I'll use it for the tractor too). There seems to be quite a few mil surplus and other Diesel generators available. They are big enough and seem to be easy to work on and there are many more Diesel tech's to be found then Generac tech's.
I am also thinking of getting one on a trailer so I can move it with me too.
That's what I come up with, we had a portable generac Dad paid waaay too much for and it was dead after a year or so, spit a valve or something catastrophic like that I don't remember exactly..the engine needed a rebuild but it cost too much and it just ended up being garbage.
been using cheap loud brigs I got for like 400 bux at walmart for years now without issue but dang they're loud
I really like the diesel tank for both tractor and generator idea
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these are super cool, expensive at $650 bux though, but easy button!
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:yike:
Thats sorta what I was dreaming of ....dang
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If I were to just plug one in, and didnt have the 50 amp plug in available yet, the dryer seems like the most logical place to plug it in. I'm not sure what kind of adapting Id have to do to get the right plug on the end of the genny cord. Ive heard people say they just plug it into an outlet, but that seems a little underguaged
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Theres a few people who have a rough idea of how electricity works spouting things out. I wouldnt do a thing without a permit/inspection when it comes to electricity, the consequences to others and your own liability are too high.
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I have a 7500W Deere (Honda) that I just ran extension cords to some equipment during the last ice storm years ago. I had dreams of a transfer switch, then we sold the house.
Only advice I can offer is that Stabil is the real deal. I was lazy on yearly checks, keeping it ethanol free, etc. Years old gas with Stabil, and it started right up, with some fresh gas to top off, when we used it this year.
I've honestly not had any problems with ethanol gas in the various two strokes with Stabil.
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If I were to just plug one in, and didnt have the 50 amp plug in available yet, the dryer seems like the most logical place to plug it in. I'm not sure what kind of adapting Id have to do to get the right plug on the end of the genny cord. Ive heard people say they just plug it into an outlet, but that seems a little underguaged
4 prong dryer outlet? or 3 prong outlet?
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I do believe it’s 4. I’m not there now, but pretty sure.
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these are super cool, expensive at $650 bux though, but easy button!
Got a link KF?
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amazon or home depot, search: meter transfer switch
40 amp is nearly a grand :o
30 amp is $650 ish
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What kind of panel do you currently have? I installed a Siemens panel and it has the option for a generator breaker lock so I wired my generator plug into the breaker and it will back feed my panel. They key with this set up is in order to have the generator breaker on the main has to be off which keeps you from energizing the service wires.
https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-ECSBPK03-Generator-Mechanical-Interlock/dp/B004Q01YUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=57196217478&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6umZoPaN5gIVx0XVCh0XeQGzEAAYAyAAEgLzGvD_BwE&hvadid=274742483665&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1027770&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t3&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10798611786609623167&hvtargid=aud-836288731366%3Akwd-303529677049&hydadcr=14654_10062234&keywords=siemens+generator+interlock+kit&qid=1574979141&sr=8-3
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If I were to just plug one in, and didnt have the 50 amp plug in available yet, the dryer seems like the most logical place to plug it in. I'm not sure what kind of adapting Id have to do to get the right plug on the end of the genny cord. Ive heard people say they just plug it into an outlet, but that seems a little underguaged
who'd a thunk amazon would sell suicide cords? I'm baffled how this could be allowed :o
https://www.amazon.com/getwiredusa-L14-30P-4-Prong-Electric-Generator/dp/B07KQW97VC
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51FVZGb2x4L._SX679_.jpg)
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bunch more
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=backfeed+generator+cord&i=lawngarden&crid=1128HU4C5X7JV&sprefix=backfeed+%2Clawngarden%2C284&ref=nb_sb_ss_fb_1_9
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3ft??? Huh? Wow useless. For 20ft of 50amp 220v outdoor wire and 2 plugs at Hoe depot it costs about $40. (30amp genny ex.) Drill hole in floor behind dryer and install plug to wire. Properly route wire to outside location/generator. Install cheap transfer switch. Kill main and all breakers in panel. Turn on circuits needed with knowledge of Max amp draw possible of these circuits. Never feed more amps through low amp wires. Reference this # to Genny output in relation to wire and length of course. Plug in. Most debate is due to safety and redundant measures to insure safety due to peoples lack of know how. Educate yourself, try to stay legal and be 100% safe. Easy cheesy.
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3ft??? Huh? Wow useless. For 20ft of 50amp 220v outdoor wire and 2 plugs at Hoe depot it costs about $40.
Pretty sure 50 amps you’re talking 6/4 wire. I’m 99% sure you’re not going to get what you’re talking about for $40. I bought the stuff and made the cord from my generator to my gentran panel and it cost me double that and I’m pretty sure I used 8/4 wire.
:dunno:
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Just found this on line.
just a little wire, some conduit and a permit. Oh ya have a propane tank dropped in the yard.
https://www.norwall.com/products/Cummins-Quiet-Connect-20kW-Air-Cooled-Home-Standby-and-200-Amp-SE-Rated-Automatic-Transfer-Switch-RS20AC/?msclkid=48be21a025ab1f88e7ba7c408cba7cc3&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Cummins%20-%20Shopping&utm_term=4582627030918135&utm_content=Cummins%20Air%20Cooled
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I just pulled the trigger on a 9200 watt genny. (300 dollars off thanks to black friday) That should power at least one space heater and my coffee pot and maybe enough for wifi so I can be on huntwa.
Thank you everyone for their input, ideas and instructions. I was able to come up with a sound plan. With the pending possibility of not having a job next month I really didnt want to spend the money, but at least I got one I can take with me. Hell, tent city may be a little more comfortable if I cant pay the rent.
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If a "Person" was to go to Lowes and buy the gen. plug and a dryer plug and some proper 30+amp wire in theory you "could" unplug the clothes dryer turn off main power supply, (Gen Transfer switch recommended) and plug your outdoor gen into dryer plug. 3500w 30amps 220v. Well, light or two, fridge etc. It is redneck yes. It works great. Be safe and smart and this isn't legal either.
I don’t recommend doing this at all. There is a reason why it’s not legal. The reason is because when the power goes out and you hook it up as mentioned you end up back feeding through your house, through your service going to the transformer and back on the downed power line. I am very against this because I am a lineman by trade and it is extremely dangerous for us. Because when we get to a downed line we test and ground it dead and then go to work. And if someone fires up a generator and back feeds then the lime comes “hot” while we are on it. This kills people every year and quite frankly pisses me off when I see it, because I’d like to go home to my family at the end of the day.
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:yeah: Safety first of course. A cut off transfer should be installed 100%. Many risks and 1 mistake could hurt good people. We all know it is done all over and most have brains but some don't of course. That said yes it does work when done properly. Another risk is dirty power destroying your electronic equipment in your house. Fires if overloads etc. All this talk has got me thinking of a future project. Maybe a Harbor freight 50amp genny and transfer. 50 amps should be plenty as I have made do with 30amp in past but cords and such are a PIA.
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for those who want a serious long term generator designed to work off grid and run for weeks on end, low 1800 rpm diesel lister/cat engines
https://www.auroragenerators.com/collections/off-grid-generator-power
1.2 gallons per hour at 50% load on a 50kw generator...that's impressive fuel consumption for 25kw output
there's something to be said for over sizing your generator and running it half or less of its full demand . I'm interested because I'd like to hybrid off grid my place. hooked to the grid, but don't need it.
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If a "Person" was to go to Lowes and buy the gen. plug and a dryer plug and some proper 30+amp wire in theory you "could" unplug the clothes dryer turn off main power supply, (Gen Transfer switch recommended) and plug your outdoor gen into dryer plug. 3500w 30amps 220v. Well, light or two, fridge etc. It is redneck yes. It works great. Be safe and smart and this isn't legal either.
I don’t recommend doing this at all. There is a reason why it’s not legal. The reason is because when the power goes out and you hook it up as mentioned you end up back feeding through your house, through your service going to the transformer and back on the downed power line. I am very against this because I am a lineman by trade and it is extremely dangerous for us. Because when we get to a downed line we test and ground it dead and then go to work. And if someone fires up a generator and back feeds then the lime comes “hot” while we are on it. This kills people every year and quite frankly pisses me off when I see it, because I’d like to go home to my family at the end of the day.
As someone else that works in the electrical industry please rethink doing this yourself. He is right about this type of thing killing people every year. It burns down houses and causes all kinds of pain and suffering. I know its easy to look up things on the internet and diy, but we have code for a reason. An approved transfer switch or main source lock out is a must. You might know to shut of the main every time but what happens if someone else does it?
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There is a UL Listed lockout switch you can install on most panels and then run a simple outdoor plug for generators. The plug locks out the main breaker and is mechanically interlocked so you have to flip the mains off before you can energize the generator plug.
Again, if it doesn't make sense you can spend a couple hundred on a licensed electrician and not have regrets when things go bad.
If you really want to be tightwad, put the generator in your back yard and run an extension cord through the window to power your refrigerator and a plug in lamp or two.
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I was in Costco Spokane 2 days ago and spoke to the salesman about the cost. He quoted for a 13 KV between 4 and 6 grand for the unit and the install. But that didn't include the propane tank. He also said that the company would have to come and look what else it may need.
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Propane scares me due to high consumption rates and cost of propane during winter months.
2 -3 (maybe longer) years ago propane was well north of $5/gallon, those propane standby generators can burn 3-7 gallons per hour pretty easy. I thi nk my sisterinlaw paid over 7 dollars a gallon as she got gouged due to being on contract (at least I own my tank)
15kw propane burns like 3.4 gallons per hour, 35kw is almost 7 gallons per hour.
I think it would be ok for in town with frequent but short outages, but if your out in the sticks near the end of the line you can be out for extended periods. I heat with propane, so if I were on a trip I could come home to an empty tank, a cold house, and thousands of dollars to fill it back up.
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Propane has the best long term storage. It also burns the cleanest and does not gum up a carborator. Imo a dual fuel gen set is the best and there was a thread about it on here. Unlike gas or deisel propane has no shelf life. It may burn more, but if your concerned about the cost. You might be sweating the wrong stuff at that point.
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I thought I explained it pretty well as it pertains to me? I didnt want to have a guzzler of a genny hooked to my source of heat and me gone on vacation or something.
Also for me storing fuel is a non issue since I use it in my tractor, I burn quite a bit of diesel in it. Others could use it in their trucks if they stored on road diesel, or gas in their cars.
Its not hard to cycle in fresh fuel if setup right. On my current setup I burn the gas in my atv, lawnmower etc.
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Wiring in a transfer switch is pretty darn easy. Not sure if it has to be done by an electrician but ...... I bought a honda motor knock of generator at costco for about 1k. It is 6800 watts at peak. Transfer switch cost me about $350 (8 circuit) and about an hour to install. I only run non ethanol, and fuel it up in October. Start it up every other week to run for 10 minutes until March. Then drain the fuel let it run dry and put it away. Only thing I would do different was to buy a 10 circuit switch instead of an 8.
:yeah: x2 this is exactly what I have done and would do differently next time. The actual switch is a nothing to install.
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I wouldnt be on an auto set up....so the first thing I'd do would be to switch the main power off at the meter. That would stop backfeed or the other way when the power came back on.
Don't forget your jacuzzi tub :chuckle:
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lets see if I understand this right. With the transfer switch I can only run the items that come off the 8 circuits or so, regardless of how many watts I'm putting out, but if I backfeed it through the dryer plug I can basically run anything I want off my main breaker panel and can adjust circuits there depending on the watts generated, used, need etc. (yes of course the main coming in would be shut off. I get that!, no really I do.
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Just remember a dryer plug is only rated for 30 amps or so. Start pushing more than that through it on a back feed you can over heat the wires and burn your house down.
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I wouldnt be on an auto set up....so the first thing I'd do would be to switch the main power off at the meter. That would stop backfeed or the other way when the power came back on.
Don't forget your jacuzzi tub :chuckle:
Gotta have the important stuff in operation.
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Its stuck in my craw that the pump is a 3hp pump. Its down 400 feet. I'm not positive. It might just be 1hp. My memory isnt what it used to be.
A little late, but for what its worth, if you're getting flow from your well pump and its truly down 400 feet, your craw is right. You'd be disappointed with the performance of a 1hp at that depth.
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lets see if I understand this right. With the transfer switch I can only run the items that come off the 8 circuits or so, regardless of how many watts I'm putting out, but if I backfeed it through the dryer plug I can basically run anything I want off my main breaker panel and can adjust circuits there depending on the watts generated, used, need etc. (yes of course the main coming in would be shut off. I get that!, no really I do.
Bone
You could only run what the output of the generator is usually a 30 amp or 50 amp 220 receptacle. Or if you have 2 20 amp 120 volt circuits.
I am trying to understand why some folks are thinking they need to power the entire house. Even the Skool district I used to work for we only fed vital loads. Lights and the important loads. Not the classroom receptacles. But to each there own on needs.
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One 120/240V 30A locking outlet, a 120/240V 50A outlet (14-50R) and four 120V 20A GFCI outlets
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One 120/240V 30A locking outlet, a 120/240V 50A outlet (14-50R) and four 120V 20A GFCI outlets
What I see is that you have a 30 amp RV Recp. 1 50 amp 240 Recp. and then a pair of Duplex Recep just like in your home next to your chair. How many reset do you have on the face plate? The other is they are not gangable usually they are a one or the other.
There are only 4 resets on the panel on this unit
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Still sitting in the back of my truck. I was just pulling that off of specs. No idea. I think my first hurdle is that my well is on a second service, right next to my meter and main cut off. I'm concerned if I go the electrician route and transfer switch and (50 amp input plug) I wont have power to the well. ???
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I get more from the generator using (2) 20amp duplexs and two cords than I do using the single 30amp twistlock and 1 cord. The 30amp is for an rv and is only single pole 120v so you can't get 240v so it'll only power half the panel.
Oh I see you said your twist lock 30amp is 120/240 volts? I don't get that? Is it not for an RV?
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Do you not have a pressure tank for your well inside the house? That sucks, your well will cycle each time you turn on a faucet or flush a toilet
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Didn't read the whole thread but we used a panel interlock and wired in a 50 amp generator plug into a double pull 50 amp breaker. You flip the interlock to shut off power company feed and then flip the 50 amp breaker. The generator then feeds the whole panel. Pick and choose which circuits you want on and turn the rest off.
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That’s what I was envisioning.
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Didn't read the whole thread but we used a panel interlock and wired in a 50 amp generator plug into a double pull 50 amp breaker. You flip the interlock to shut off power company feed and then flip the 50 amp breaker. The generator then feeds the whole panel. Pick and choose which circuits you want on and turn the rest off.
that's the easy button, but I'm not sure all panels can be retrofitted for this :dunno:
what's it cost to install a whole new panel? I guess if it isn't full you could move all the breakers down and put in a new 50a up top and use an interlock.
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Still sitting in the back of my truck. I was just pulling that off of specs. No idea. I think my first hurdle is that my well is on a second service, right next to my meter and main cut off. I'm concerned if I go the electrician route and transfer switch and (50 amp input plug) I wont have power to the well. ???
True but ya could maybe install 220v direct burial wire in between panels for Backup genny use only? Unless its a country mile!!!
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Nope, I'd need a bigger panel.
No room to add a generator circuit, I got one single pole left! (at the very bottom right)
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This is what I wanted to use but my power company wouldn't let me. You'll have to call your power company and ask before purchase. It's called the Generlink. Not cheap but cheaper than an electrician redoing a panel.
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how would they know once they got that smart meter on it? I plan to put in a gate once I get my smart meter and no one will be coming in, least of all to check my meter.
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how would they know once they got that smart meter on it? I plan to put in a gate once I get my smart meter and no one will be coming in, least of all to check my meter.
They have to install it, electricians can’t mess with the meter.😉
I love my gate, tax man has to take pics from the road.🤣
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The tax many follows the same factors as Fitkin does with his deer count. No matter what, the number always goes up
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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-150-225-Amp-Load-Center-Outdoor-Generator-Interlock-Kit-QORBGK2C/203046556?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT_DEVICES-Generic-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_8_CIRCUIT_PROTECT_DEVICES-Generic-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA--71700000034238981-58700003943782709-92700048672399158&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI68vqnY6g5gIVhK_sCh0OQQmuEAQYASABEgImffD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
All you need is two open slots in your service panel for the incoming power. You may need to move the existing breakers around since this has to be near the main service disconnect breaker. From there, it's a few feet of wire to an outside generator receptacle. It's a 1/2 day job for an electrician and maybe $250 in parts unless your panel can't take it and then it's a bit more complicated.
You will need to buy the right one for your panel, they make a ton for all the different panel configurations.
The utility owns the meter and you will have a tough time convincing them to put that thing in there.
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This is what you need. It locks out the main while energizing the right hand breaker
The right hand breaker can not be “on” if the main is on.
This makes you legal, and safe. It’s also cheap and works in most any panel.
Edit
These are sold At Home Depot and Lowe’s. Don’t be cheap be safe.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191206/679e4f177e70d9fa0ce43fdcd543b77b.jpg)
I got something like this and it’s great. Just plug in the generator. Runs well pump, septic, and a few house circuits. We ran for 9 days when we had a wind storm. Only problem was when kids were little and flipped a switch messing around. The septic tank got a little full.
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Didn't read the whole thread but we used a panel interlock and wired in a 50 amp generator plug into a double pull 50 amp breaker. You flip the interlock to shut off power company feed and then flip the 50 amp breaker. The generator then feeds the whole panel. Pick and choose which circuits you want on and turn the rest off.
that's the easy button, but I'm not sure all panels can be retrofitted for this :dunno:
what's it cost to install a whole new panel? I guess if it isn't full you could move all the breakers down and put in a new 50a up top and use an interlock.
I put in a 125amp panel with two 50amp breakers this summer. The cost to power company to cycle off power was free and $80 to reconnect. The panel was $150 with one 50amp breaker and I think $34.99 for the second 50amp. I could be off on the breaker cost. I needed some wire between the two panels, that was $30. That was it. I run one 50amp as the main and the other 50amp as service to the other panel. If I’m right, I spent about $300 to $350 with misc parts. Works great. Manual transfer switch, but that works well and 6 breakers when on gen that power 90% of the house.
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I agree, it's not as big of a project as one may think. My house is all gas, so they put in a whopper 50 A panel. I had the power company pull the cables and replaced it with a 200A panel and had the inspection done that afternoon. You will likely need to extend a few branch circuit conductors to fit the new configuration as well as cut a larger opening in the wall - depending on what your existing panel is.
The power company won't reconnect until you have the state inspection done. I lucked out and they pulled the new aluminum conductors I bought from the transformer underground to my house and made the connections on both sides.
If you aren't upgrading the service conductors, it's a 1/2 day job if you are taking your time.
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Nope, I'd need a bigger panel.
No room to add a generator circuit, I got one single pole left! (at the very bottom right)
You can simply replace some of your existing single pole breakers with single pole tandems. Free up a ton of space in there.
Cheaper and easier than a new panel or sub-panel.
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thanks baker5150 :tup:
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Nope, I'd need a bigger panel.
No room to add a generator circuit, I got one single pole left! (at the very bottom right)
You can simply replace some of your existing single pole breakers with single pole tandems. Free up a ton of space in there.
Cheaper and easier than a new panel or sub-panel.
Or there is always this idea!!
You should be fine with either. Had a contractor do this install on his floor sander in a skool over here. :IBCOOL:
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:o
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Does that work for a Tesla?
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After a couple break in hiccups (stuck choke, oil level senor wiring issue) I've been really happy with my Duromax 10,000 dual fuel. The dual fuel capability was really nice during the 9 day outage we had last year. It had plenty of power to keep the wife happy and keep my business running.
We have a transfer panel, it's worth the money for ease of use and piece of mind in my opinion. Because you know that Murphy guy makes sure the power only goes out in the middle of the night when it's raining or snowing... Flip the switch, plug in generator, and everything on the circuit operates like normal. Here's the Amazon affiliate link to the model I have if you're interested in more info on it https://amzn.to/2Ly4pJi (https://amzn.to/2Ly4pJi)
Late spring seems to be the best time to buy a generator, I got mine for a little more than 50% off of what they list for now.