Post by: C-Money on December 10, 2019, 01:55:39 PM
Post by: Mudman on December 10, 2019, 02:13:34 PM
Post by: follow maggie on December 10, 2019, 03:16:53 PM
Post by: KFhunter on December 10, 2019, 03:24:28 PM
I had great luck with motorworks in Spokane, but I'm sure there's a great reputable shop on your side of the state?
https://www.motorworksengines.com/
while your at it have your transmission gone through and possibly rebuilt, it might not be fully ready for it but I'd do it if it were me, 157k is quite a bit anyways so there's going to be wear and tear on it no matter what.
If you like the vehicle, its clean and no other issues for sure I'd repower it :tup:
Post by: Buckhunter24 on December 10, 2019, 03:31:20 PM
Post by: KFhunter on December 10, 2019, 03:36:17 PM
long block it :chuckle:
Post by: Skillet on December 10, 2019, 04:15:28 PM
$3500 +/- is where you should be at, imho. Good for another 157k+.
I stayed at a Quality Inn last night, FYI. :chuckle:
Post by: jrebel on December 10, 2019, 04:29:06 PM
Just a thought and my :twocents:
Post by: TommyH on December 10, 2019, 04:43:54 PM
Our Tahoe has bad intake gaskets and also had a misfire. It would act up more in the cold weather, after initial start up it would drop to low rpms and almost die. Once it was warmed up it would be fine.
Post by: Lumpy Taters on December 10, 2019, 08:52:20 PM
Post by: Stein on December 10, 2019, 10:19:59 PM
I know 2000's had a head casting problem, but you have a completely different engine. New heads along with the tools to do it, all parts and fixing a few things along the way was under $1k easy.
No way I would put a new engine in a 99 unless it was a project I enjoyed doing.
For reference, in the spring I will be selling my 2000 Silverado with 170k for probably $4k with zero problems. They are out there if you look
Post by: C-Money on December 11, 2019, 06:08:12 AM
and this engine for $1600 https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12681431/10002/-1
Post by: Lumpy Taters on December 11, 2019, 07:14:45 AM
Post by: C-Money on December 11, 2019, 08:23:45 AM
Post by: KFhunter on December 11, 2019, 08:45:04 AM
but if you love the vehicle and the body/interior are cherry...then perhaps I would, or if it has sentimental value then I would.
and if I did, I'd put in a longblock and rebuild the tranny. And I'd stick on new waterpump, all new belts, hoses, thermostat, alt, battery etc etc it would all be new, painted and purdy under the hood
but only if this were a cherry rig like I said above, otherwise its trade in time
Post by: D-Rock425 on December 11, 2019, 08:48:55 AM
Post by: C-Money on December 11, 2019, 09:55:02 AM
Post by: Skillet on December 11, 2019, 10:07:48 AM
Whats the difference between this engine for $2700 https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12681431/10002/-1
and this engine for $1600 https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12681431/10002/-1
You have the same link for both engines there,fyi
Post by: jackelope on December 11, 2019, 11:11:12 AM
How do you know it's burning coolant?
The intake manifold gaskets leak like crazy on those engines. Usually at the corners of the manifold. Failing injectors cause misfires in those things left and right.
I put 235k miles on my last chevy truck. You're at 150k +/-. If you're cool with spending $5k, it seems like money well spent to me as long as you expect another 75k miles out of it. Spending $5k on a used vehicle you have no idea where it's been, how it's been maintained, what it's been through etc seems like a horrible idea to me.
That said, I'd look into how much an engine from GM would cost. If you buy one from Jeg's and it has problems, who pays the labor $$ to fix it? Do they cover labor? Warranty on an engine from the dealer will cover parts and labor, and I bet it's more than 3/30.
I had a kid bought pads and rotors from Jeg's for an explorer this week and brought them in for us to install. Took him 2 trips before he had the correct rotors and then we put them on and they were warped causing a pulsation straight out of the box.
Post by: Buckmark on December 11, 2019, 12:00:53 PM
I also agree a little with jackelope on buying the engine from GM as the warranty if something goes wrong is pretty good and it used to be (still think it is) 10yr/100k, now with that said i called Jet Chevrolet which is the Western Wa warehouse for GM and they no longer have the new crate engines available and they had no remans instock, could order me one though. My cost is 2505.60 with list being 3021.93 so that might make me pause and search other suppliers like you did (jegs etc) and save the 1500, Jasper engines have been ok lately and there warranty is pretty good but there prices usually are around the dealer (i did not check with them)
I would stay far far away from S&K engines in Spokane, i wont even take a vehicle in for engine warranty work if they have a S&K installed.
*
On a side note have been asked why i dont install customer supplied parts and jackelopes last sentence explains why, cant tie up a lift waiting for someone elses correct parts.....
Post by: KFhunter on December 11, 2019, 12:23:34 PM
Post by: elkaholic123 on December 11, 2019, 12:30:21 PM
https://www.yahoo.com/autos/see-photos-2021-chevrolet-suburban-010000996.html
Post by: jackelope on December 11, 2019, 12:43:54 PM
If the rest of the rig is in good serviceable condition then i would do it but i would do it myself and not have the labor cost but thats me.
I also agree a little with jackelope on buying the engine from GM as the warranty if something goes wrong is pretty good and it used to be (still think it is) 10yr/100k, now with that said i called Jet Chevrolet which is the Western Wa warehouse for GM and they no longer have the new crate engines available and they had no remans instock, could order me one though. My cost is 2505.60 with list being 3021.93 so that might make me pause and search other suppliers like you did (jegs etc) and save the 1500, Jasper engines have been ok lately and there warranty is pretty good but there prices usually are around the dealer (i did not check with them)
I would stay far far away from S&K engines in Spokane, i wont even take a vehicle in for engine warranty work if they have a S&K installed.
*
On a side note have been asked why i dont install customer supplied parts and jackelopes last sentence explains why, cant tie up a lift waiting for someone elses correct parts.....
Last I had reason to check, Jasper pays $50/hour labor and they won't pay you to fix one of their powertrain components. Verify internal issue in one of their units, pull it and send it back to them for fix or replacement. No rental coverage.
Post by: Woodchuck on December 11, 2019, 01:00:28 PM
Post by: Stein on December 11, 2019, 01:02:57 PM
Post by: Buckmark on December 11, 2019, 01:04:08 PM
Yes they wont pay a shop to fix internals but they do pay R/R, Jasper does offer service plan upgrades for the customer at a minimal cost and towing/rental for a minimal cost (option 1 160 bucks pays 95hr labor and fluids, option 2 255 bucks pays 125hr labor and fluids, 40 bucks for towing and rental coverage of 35 per day for 10 days and up to 100 bucks in towing) had a customer recently who had a Jasper engine that went bad (not one we put in) and they had the 95hr plan, they do only pay book time on engines and we charge more than book but the customer was fine paying the difference in hourly and hours, still worked out good for him.If the rest of the rig is in good serviceable condition then i would do it but i would do it myself and not have the labor cost but thats me.
I also agree a little with jackelope on buying the engine from GM as the warranty if something goes wrong is pretty good and it used to be (still think it is) 10yr/100k, now with that said i called Jet Chevrolet which is the Western Wa warehouse for GM and they no longer have the new crate engines available and they had no remans instock, could order me one though. My cost is 2505.60 with list being 3021.93 so that might make me pause and search other suppliers like you did (jegs etc) and save the 1500, Jasper engines have been ok lately and there warranty is pretty good but there prices usually are around the dealer (i did not check with them)
I would stay far far away from S&K engines in Spokane, i wont even take a vehicle in for engine warranty work if they have a S&K installed.
*
On a side note have been asked why i dont install customer supplied parts and jackelopes last sentence explains why, cant tie up a lift waiting for someone elses correct parts.....
Last I had reason to check, Jasper pays $50/hour labor and they won't pay you to fix one of their powertrain components. Verify internal issue in one of their units, pull it and send it back to them for fix or replacement. No rental coverage.
Now i will say im all OEM first when we bid engines but have used others when we had to. I have had 1 GM crate motor and 1 Ford crate motor need warranty repairs and both went to the dealer with no issues, had 1 Jasper we put in that blew a head gasket that was a bit of work to get them to cover but we did finally get covered and paid.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
Just to be clear im not all Jasper is great, like i said they are ok, lots of rebuilders out there that are really bad though...we could start a whole thread on that.
I would pull it and have Rob at Action machine in shoreline rebuild it, might take 6 months and cost me more but i a sucker for punishment :chuckle:
Post by: Buckmark on December 11, 2019, 01:14:59 PM
Post by: ballpark on December 11, 2019, 01:17:14 PM
Our family SUV appears to have a cracked head. Symptoms are a cylinder #5 misfire, and burning coolant. Our Tahoe has 157,000 miles. Its in great shape with, new rear axels, a seemingly solid tranny/transfer case, new breaks, good tires, no dents... good paint. Weighing out trading it in on a used SUV. Prices for an SUV that has similar or less miles are $10-15,000. Or, just put in a new 5.7 in the Tahoe we have. We are leaning greatly towards a new engine. I was told to figure $5,000 for a new motor and labor out the door, mechanic hoping it would be less, but figure $5,000. 3 year 30,000 mile warranty on the engine/labor. Is it possible to put in an engine that is carbureted to avoid all the electronic stuff, or is that not smart? The engine thats in it has a distributor, and plug wires, no coil packs. Anyone ever go through this dilemma, and how did it turn out?
I did the swap myself with the L31 on a 98 Silverado K1500. Not difficult, but why you are in there … water pump, hoses, spark plugs, wires. Be ready to inspect flywheel, starter, distributor, intake manifold. My intake manifold was all gunked up, flywheel was cracked. The break in period is very important - follow the instructions :tup:
Post by: C-Money on December 11, 2019, 02:21:28 PM
Post by: ballpark on December 11, 2019, 02:52:25 PM
We have battled fowling and had tune up's done x2, spider injection harness replaced, as well as other things I can't identify, or understand. A friend and me did the water pump. Shop did a gasket of some sort? After the spider harness, it has ran pretty good for about a year, and thought it was good to go. Now the #5 misfire is the problem. I have spent dang near enough on this engine the last 3-4 years to have a huge dent in the cost of a new motor. I change the oil and do very light maintenance on all our vehicles. A motor swap is light years outta my comfort zone. I have shot trap with the mechanic since we were kids, and is a straight shooter at the range and with his business. I sure do appreciate all the comments on here as I value the opinions of the folks on here as well...Doing my best to make an informed decision. We shall see what they find!
The heads are very expensive which make the swap even more practical as it comes with the heads. I got my engine from JEGS. Good luck :tup:
Post by: follow maggie on December 11, 2019, 03:21:54 PM
JUST DO IT!
https://www.yahoo.com/autos/see-photos-2021-chevrolet-suburban-010000996.html
Those are nice rigs
Post by: jackelope on December 11, 2019, 03:45:52 PM
We have battled fowling and had tune up's done x2, spider injection harness replaced, as well as other things I can't identify, or understand. A friend and me did the water pump. Shop did a gasket of some sort? After the spider harness, it has ran pretty good for about a year, and thought it was good to go. Now the #5 misfire is the problem. I have spent dang near enough on this engine the last 3-4 years to have a huge dent in the cost of a new motor. I change the oil and do very light maintenance on all our vehicles. A motor swap is light years outta my comfort zone. I have shot trap with the mechanic since we were kids, and is a straight shooter at the range and with his business. I sure do appreciate all the comments on here as I value the opinions of the folks on here as well...Doing my best to make an informed decision. We shall see what they find!
(That engine has 8 individual injectors, not the spider injector thing)
Post by: jackelope on December 11, 2019, 03:46:38 PM
:twocents:
Post by: Buckmark on December 11, 2019, 04:03:55 PM
Its Central SFI system which people call the spider which is a unit, still all located under the upper intake, silly GM..........We have battled fowling and had tune up's done x2, spider injection harness replaced, as well as other things I can't identify, or understand. A friend and me did the water pump. Shop did a gasket of some sort? After the spider harness, it has ran pretty good for about a year, and thought it was good to go. Now the #5 misfire is the problem. I have spent dang near enough on this engine the last 3-4 years to have a huge dent in the cost of a new motor. I change the oil and do very light maintenance on all our vehicles. A motor swap is light years outta my comfort zone. I have shot trap with the mechanic since we were kids, and is a straight shooter at the range and with his business. I sure do appreciate all the comments on here as I value the opinions of the folks on here as well...Doing my best to make an informed decision. We shall see what they find!
(That engine has 8 individual injectors, not the spider injector thing)
Post by: Stein on December 11, 2019, 08:29:40 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: C-Money on December 12, 2019, 08:33:51 AM
Post by: Buckmark on December 12, 2019, 08:57:22 AM
I thought the spider harness had new injectors on it? :dunno:You can buy them both ways, atleast that part would be newer for the replacement engine if you decide to go that route
Post by: jackelope on December 12, 2019, 12:26:30 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 12, 2019, 04:58:25 PM
Post by: C-Money on December 12, 2019, 06:09:43 PM
Post by: BUCKHUNT on December 13, 2019, 10:44:07 PM
I was told I have a blown intake valve and am getting no compression on cylinder 5. I’m leaning towards dropping in a crate motor; was quoted $5600 for a Jasper with a 3yr/100k mile warranty. Not sure how long I should shop around, or if that’s a reasonable quote.
Post by: Skillet on December 13, 2019, 11:05:30 PM
I’m very interested in this as I’m currently dealing with the exact same dilemma. I have a 95 suburban at 225k miles. The rest of the truck is solid, I’m the original owner and have the truck rigged up perfectly for my needs.
I was told I have a blown intake valve and am getting no compression on cylinder 5. I’m leaning towards dropping in a crate motor; was quoted $5600 for a Jasper with a 3yr/100k mile warranty. Not sure how long I should shop around, or if that’s a reasonable quote.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/8758/10002/-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/8758/10002/-1)
That's a brand new, not remanufactured engine shipped to your door with a warranty.
$5600 for an installed reman seems a little high to me. :twocents:
Post by: HntnFsh on December 14, 2019, 07:23:59 AM
I’m very interested in this as I’m currently dealing with the exact same dilemma. I have a 95 suburban at 225k miles. The rest of the truck is solid, I’m the original owner and have the truck rigged up perfectly for my needs.
I was told I have a blown intake valve and am getting no compression on cylinder 5. I’m leaning towards dropping in a crate motor; was quoted $5600 for a Jasper with a 3yr/100k mile warranty. Not sure how long I should shop around, or if that’s a reasonable quote.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/8758/10002/-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/8758/10002/-1)
That's a brand new, not remanufactured engine shipped to your door with a warranty.
$5600 for an installed reman seems a little high to me. :twocents:
Me too. That's a pretty easy swap.
Post by: jackelope on December 14, 2019, 11:11:16 AM
Post by: jackelope on December 14, 2019, 11:16:41 AM
I’m very interested in this as I’m currently dealing with the exact same dilemma. I have a 95 suburban at 225k miles. The rest of the truck is solid, I’m the original owner and have the truck rigged up perfectly for my needs.
I was told I have a blown intake valve and am getting no compression on cylinder 5. I’m leaning towards dropping in a crate motor; was quoted $5600 for a Jasper with a 3yr/100k mile warranty. Not sure how long I should shop around, or if that’s a reasonable quote.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/8758/10002/-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/059/8758/10002/-1)
That's a brand new, not remanufactured engine shipped to your door with a warranty.
$5600 for an installed reman seems a little high to me. :twocents:
Where does it say it’s new?
Post by: jackelope on December 14, 2019, 11:24:01 AM
We’re $160 an hour. Let’s say 20 hours. (I know it’s a lot. We’re the cheapest Ford dealer in our area)
$3200 labor
$1600 engine
$500 misc
$5300+tax
Maybe the labor is a couple hours heavy but I’m assuming an hours worth of diagnosis to determine the problem too. It’s just a guess.
Same as with Jasper. Before considering Jegs as a viable option I’d want to know the terms of the warranty. Who pays labor and how much do they cover if there is a problem.
Post by: KFhunter on December 14, 2019, 11:34:16 AM
I'd only do an engine job if I did it myself, or under warranty.
Post by: jackelope on December 14, 2019, 11:49:55 AM
Post by: BUCKHUNT on December 14, 2019, 03:59:28 PM
I should note that the truck is strictly for recreation, so not a daily driver. I also have no intention of trading it in or selling it eventually, but I'd like it to be reliable.
I called the dealership today just for another reference point; they told me to expect to pay around $7-$8k for the job, and that it would take them a while to source the motor. Is the best way to shop around to make calls and get quotes like this over the phone? It's been in great running condition for the last 20+ years so haven't had to deal with Mechanics in a long time.
Post by: jackelope on December 14, 2019, 05:36:24 PM
Thanks for the replies,
I should note that the truck is strictly for recreation, so not a daily driver. I also have no intention of trading it in or selling it eventually, but I'd like it to be reliable.
I called the dealership today just for another reference point; they told me to expect to pay around $7-$8k for the job, and that it would take them a while to source the motor. Is the best way to shop around to make calls and get quotes like this over the phone? It's been in great running condition for the last 20+ years so haven't had to deal with Mechanics in a long time.
They should be able to tell you within a few key strokes if the engine is available. Might take a little bit to get one, but it’s quick and easy to determine the source. Maybe you got an inexperienced guy stuck working Saturdays. I’d also make sure you’re getting a GM engine if you’re calling the dealer too. Just verify it.
Post by: ballpark on December 16, 2019, 03:47:46 PM
I’m very interested in this as I’m currently dealing with the exact same dilemma. I have a 95 suburban at 225k miles. The rest of the truck is solid, I’m the original owner and have the truck rigged up perfectly for my needs.
I was told I have a blown intake valve and am getting no compression on cylinder 5. I’m leaning towards dropping in a crate motor; was quoted $5600 for a Jasper with a 3yr/100k mile warranty. Not sure how long I should shop around, or if that’s a reasonable quote.
https://www.jegs.com/c/Engines-Components_Engine-Assembled-Ready-to-Run/10763/10002/-1 :tup:
Post by: C-Money on December 21, 2019, 12:35:54 PM
Post by: jackelope on December 21, 2019, 12:59:28 PM
Post by: Sandberm on December 21, 2019, 01:50:20 PM
EDIT... Maybe its a leaky intake manifold gasket like in this video. Customer had a misfire. I think either in the video or the comments it talks about how when the engine warms up sometimes the leak seals up. Maybe that explains why your problem is intermittent?
Post by: HntnFsh on December 22, 2019, 07:40:57 AM
Reading your original post makes it sound more like the cracked head diagnosis was a guess at what was the problem?
EDIT... Maybe its a leaky intake manifold gasket like in this video. Customer had a misfire. I think either in the video or the comments it talks about how when the engine warms up sometimes the leak seals up. Maybe that explains why your problem is intermittent?
Not uncommon for that era.
Post by: C-Money on December 23, 2019, 08:50:35 AM
Post by: Lumpy Taters on December 23, 2019, 07:16:29 PM
Post by: Sandberm on December 27, 2019, 02:05:15 PM
I replaced the gasket with a metal one made by Felpro.
Post by: jackelope on December 27, 2019, 05:24:06 PM
That leak happened a lot...like, I made a crap load of money selling those repairs. We did them all the time.
Post by: C-Money on February 12, 2020, 06:48:10 AM
Post by: C-Money on February 13, 2020, 03:22:28 PM
Post by: Grit dog on February 14, 2020, 12:10:26 AM
We have battled fowling and had tune up's done x2, spider injection harness replaced, as well as other things I can't identify, or understand. A friend and me did the water pump. Shop did a gasket of some sort? After the spider harness, it has ran pretty good for about a year, and thought it was good to go. Now the #5 misfire is the problem. I have spent dang near enough on this engine the last 3-4 years to have a huge dent in the cost of a new motor. I change the oil and do very light maintenance on all our vehicles. A motor swap is light years outta my comfort zone. I have shot trap with the mechanic since we were kids, and is a straight shooter at the range and with his business. I sure do appreciate all the comments on here as I value the opinions of the folks on here as well...Doing my best to make an informed decision. We shall see what they find!
Didn’t read the last 2 pages but based on this post, 100% this is what I’d do.
If it were me and I wanted the cheap option, I’d buy a used engine or vehicle for cheap and slap a new motor in it. 350s are dime a dozen.
But If you have to pay retail to fix, you’re spending what it’s worth. Don’t do it.
Put it on CL yesterday. If it’s as clean as you say, you’ll get $1-2k for it. Add the $4-5k and find another one.
Bonus if you can drive it for a while while searching.
Deals are out there. Almost bought a 99 Escalade grandma mobile lowmiles perfect but it sold before I was able to look at it.
But I bought a winter beater Tahoe for the wife last fall. 2001 loaded Tahoe, 9 out of 10 condition. 108k miles for $5k. They’re out there if you can find them.
If it was spring time, I’d sell it to you! But still piling on the miles in the rain while the nice car stays tucked away....
Have cash, even if you have to take a short term loan until the cash flow comes around. You won’t get a deal unless you can jump on it.
Post by: C-Money on February 14, 2020, 06:54:41 AM