Post by: Carl on January 27, 2020, 07:33:25 AM
Has anyone done some comparisons on F150 like trucks? Pros/cons would be appreciated.
Not looking for a diesel. Occasionally, I'll be towing a camper, < 10,000 lbs, or a boat. I currently have a Tacoma that I like very much but it struggles pulling a 3,500 camper. I think I can get better towing capacity and at least equal (probably better) mileage with a larger truck.
Any information will be a big help.
Thanks,
Carl
Post by: ne kid on January 27, 2020, 07:45:10 AM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on January 27, 2020, 07:52:31 AM
Post by: bornhunter on January 27, 2020, 07:57:56 AM
Post by: C-Money on January 27, 2020, 08:00:10 AM
Post by: dc on January 27, 2020, 08:08:25 AM
Post by: Stein on January 27, 2020, 08:10:00 AM
The biggest piece of advice I have is to not buy a Canadian truck. Every one I looked at had significant rust problems, even in 3 year old trucks from Vancouver BC and the ones from further north or east were practically destroyed. The Alberta trucks were the worst, many are oil field trucks that are beat.
You can find the origin by the CarFax which most dealers and some people provide. If it's a Ford dealer, they often have a link to the original sticker which will show if it's Canadian or not.
When I was looking, probably 80% of the trucks for sale were Canadian. They sell for more down here so a ton of Canadian trades end up in auction and the US dealers scoop them up for inventory.
Know what you want, what it will cost and what you are willing to live without and act fast as they don't last very long.
Ignore any claims by the dealer or their joke inspections, don't buy a Canadian truck.
Post by: CP on January 27, 2020, 08:11:13 AM
Post by: dc on January 27, 2020, 08:15:17 AM
Post by: Carl on January 27, 2020, 08:20:00 AM
The Fords are amazing, I bought a 2016 a few weeks ago and have been incredibly happy with it. I only looked at Fords, so I have no info on the Rams.
The biggest piece of advice I have is to not buy a Canadian truck. Every one I looked at had significant rust problems, even in 3 year old trucks from Vancouver BC and the ones from further north or east were practically destroyed. The Alberta trucks were the worst, many are oil field trucks that are beat.
You can find the origin by the CarFax which most dealers and some people provide. If it's a Ford dealer, they often have a link to the original sticker which will show if it's Canadian or not.
When I was looking, probably 80% of the trucks for sale were Canadian. They sell for more down here so a ton of Canadian trades end up in auction and the US dealers scoop them up for inventory.
Know what you want, what it will cost and what you are willing to live without and act fast as they don't last very long.
Ignore any claims by the dealer or their joke inspections, don't buy a Canadian truck.
Great advice. I had no idea!
Post by: Carl on January 27, 2020, 08:21:37 AM
10K is a hefty load to tow. I have a 2018 F150 4x4 with the 2.7 Ecoboost. I believe it is only rated to tow 8500 lbs.
Agree. I just threw the 10K number out for a max I would ever pull. My current camper is only 3,000 dry.
Post by: Old Man Yager on January 27, 2020, 09:48:45 AM
The Fords are amazing, I bought a 2016 a few weeks ago and have been incredibly happy with it. I only looked at Fords, so I have no info on the Rams.yes to that, my daughter has a 2015 Ram 1500 it’s a rust bucket underneath. They threw a coating on it, but fender wells are rusted out where mud flaps mount. She’s had it for about 5 years, and they were already like that when she got it.
The biggest piece of advice I have is to not buy a Canadian truck. Every one I looked at had significant rust problems, even in 3 year old trucks from Vancouver BC and the ones from further north or east were practically destroyed. The Alberta trucks were the worst, many are oil field trucks that are beat.
You can find the origin by the CarFax which most dealers and some people provide. If it's a Ford dealer, they often have a link to the original sticker which will show if it's Canadian or not.
When I was looking, probably 80% of the trucks for sale were Canadian. They sell for more down here so a ton of Canadian trades end up in auction and the US dealers scoop them up for inventory.
Know what you want, what it will cost and what you are willing to live without and act fast as they don't last very long.
Ignore any claims by the dealer or their joke inspections, don't buy a Canadian truck.
Post by: Stein on January 27, 2020, 11:58:51 AM
The Fords are amazing, I bought a 2016 a few weeks ago and have been incredibly happy with it. I only looked at Fords, so I have no info on the Rams.yes to that, my daughter has a 2015 Ram 1500 it’s a rust bucket underneath. They threw a coating on it, but fender wells are rusted out where mud flaps mount. She’s had it for about 5 years, and they were already like that when she got it.
The biggest piece of advice I have is to not buy a Canadian truck. Every one I looked at had significant rust problems, even in 3 year old trucks from Vancouver BC and the ones from further north or east were practically destroyed. The Alberta trucks were the worst, many are oil field trucks that are beat.
You can find the origin by the CarFax which most dealers and some people provide. If it's a Ford dealer, they often have a link to the original sticker which will show if it's Canadian or not.
When I was looking, probably 80% of the trucks for sale were Canadian. They sell for more down here so a ton of Canadian trades end up in auction and the US dealers scoop them up for inventory.
Know what you want, what it will cost and what you are willing to live without and act fast as they don't last very long.
Ignore any claims by the dealer or their joke inspections, don't buy a Canadian truck.
Yeah, I saw a few that had a black spray on coating but you could easily tell it wasn't factory because there were places they didn't get, half a shock was sprayed, etc. All signs to move on.
Post by: Stein on January 27, 2020, 12:03:56 PM
Here is the 2016 I found when I googled "2016 F-150 brochure"
https://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=F-150&year=2016&postalCode=17406
OK, one more. I have the 36 gallon upgraded fuel tank and it's awesome. I just one-stopped Arlington to Jackson, WY and it makes road trips much more enjoyable not having to worry about fuel stops nearly as much. With 19 mpg, I have nearly 700 miles of range.
Post by: Carl on January 27, 2020, 01:15:34 PM
One more, if you google the model and year and "brochure", you will find the link to that year's brochure which has all of the trim packages, colors, engines, rear ratios, payload, tow capacity, etc.
Here is the 2016 I found when I googled "2016 F-150 brochure"
https://www.ford.com/services/assets/Brochure?make=Ford&model=F-150&year=2016&postalCode=17406
OK, one more. I have the 36 gallon upgraded fuel tank and it's awesome. I just one-stopped Arlington to Jackson, WY and it makes road trips much more enjoyable not having to worry about fuel stops nearly as much. With 19 mpg, I have nearly 700 miles of range.
Thanks, Stein. That's a big help in figuring out what options/packages to look for. :tup:
Post by: jackelope on January 27, 2020, 01:32:18 PM
The Fords are amazing, I bought a 2016 a few weeks ago and have been incredibly happy with it. I only looked at Fords, so I have no info on the Rams.
The biggest piece of advice I have is to not buy a Canadian truck. Every one I looked at had significant rust problems, even in 3 year old trucks from Vancouver BC and the ones from further north or east were practically destroyed. The Alberta trucks were the worst, many are oil field trucks that are beat.
You can find the origin by the CarFax which most dealers and some people provide. If it's a Ford dealer, they often have a link to the original sticker which will show if it's Canadian or not.
When I was looking, probably 80% of the trucks for sale were Canadian. They sell for more down here so a ton of Canadian trades end up in auction and the US dealers scoop them up for inventory.
Know what you want, what it will cost and what you are willing to live without and act fast as they don't last very long.
Ignore any claims by the dealer or their joke inspections, don't buy a Canadian truck.
Great advice. I had no idea!
With a VIN #, I can tell whether it's Canadian. I bet 75%of the used F150's around are from Canada right now. I can also see all the warranty work that's been done on a Ford vehicle. In some cases I can see maintenance too if the vehicle had Ford maintenance plan. I can't see any work that was done that Ford did not pay for.
Post by: jackelope on January 27, 2020, 01:33:33 PM
I believe the 3.5 liter is rated for 13,500. I would not want to pull that much with it, but the 7500/8000 that my trailer weighs with a load in it is not an issue pulling with this truck.
The right truck with the right wheel base and the correct gear ratios can be rated to tow 13,200 pounds, but not all of the 3.5 ecoboosts are rated to tow that much. You need the 3.5 with the 6.5' bed and the max tow package to get there.
Post by: KFhunter on January 27, 2020, 01:46:28 PM
2016 Colorado
whatever you buy, get a code reader tool, save a bunch of $
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200127/8aacb8bf01a4afc22f32a72a5b85ef64.jpg)
Post by: jackelope on January 27, 2020, 03:52:01 PM
I'm going to have to buy these things by the case, about to install my 3rd as I have a CEL on again :bash:
2016 Colorado
whatever you buy, get a code reader tool, save a bunch of $
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200127/8aacb8bf01a4afc22f32a72a5b85ef64.jpg)
There are lots of reasons you'd get an evap leak code. Are you sure that's what's wrong with it?
What fault code are you getting?
Post by: linxx77 on January 27, 2020, 04:05:13 PM
The Fords are amazing, I bought a 2016 a few weeks ago and have been incredibly happy with it. I only looked at Fords, so I have no info on the Rams.
The biggest piece of advice I have is to not buy a Canadian truck. Every one I looked at had significant rust problems, even in 3 year old trucks from Vancouver BC and the ones from further north or east were practically destroyed. The Alberta trucks were the worst, many are oil field trucks that are beat.
You can find the origin by the CarFax which most dealers and some people provide. If it's a Ford dealer, they often have a link to the original sticker which will show if it's Canadian or not.
When I was looking, probably 80% of the trucks for sale were Canadian. They sell for more down here so a ton of Canadian trades end up in auction and the US dealers scoop them up for inventory.
Know what you want, what it will cost and what you are willing to live without and act fast as they don't last very long.
Ignore any claims by the dealer or their joke inspections, don't buy a Canadian truck.
So true. I bought a Canadian truck. Rookie mistake. It’s still working but I’m noticing the rust more and more. Lesson we learned
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Hitsman3 on January 27, 2020, 04:21:17 PM
Post by: Pnwrider on January 27, 2020, 04:22:38 PM
The good: They got the new 10 speed trans in 2017. I would look for a 17+ for that reason. IMO, the halogen headlights really suck. I’ve got the Leds on mine and they’re awesome! Auto high beam is a feature I liked more than expected. Unfortunately they are only available with certain higher trim levels. The 360 degree cameras is another option I ended up liking more than expected (especially when needing to turn around on a Forrest service road). Fuel economy can be decent if you keep your foot out of it. I averaged 23 mpg from Seattle to twisp due to slower traffic. I haven’t tried the trailer cameras or back up assist yet, so can’t comment there. Adaptive cruise control is great. Pano roof seems to be a real love/hate option. My kids love it, not a box I would check though (if I had a choice). Seems like an expensive future fix. I’m an iPhone user and like having apple car play.
The bad: the recirculating air on the hvac will only stay on for 5 minutes before it reverts back to fresh air. Really sucks when driving through cow country or stop and go rush hour and you have to keep hitting the switch. The rain sensing wipers are ok, but no way to disable that I know of. In mist I have to manually turn on and off or listen to them drag across the dry windshield. In 2018 they put an ambient air temp sensor in the mirror so you cannot upgrade to the tow mirrors. Other years may be affected by this as well. I was a little disappointed as I figured I could upgrade to the bigger tow mirrors after the fact. However, the trailer blind spot monitor is really accurate once setup and the stock mirrors aren’t that bad. Lane departure is not as good as other manufacturers. The ford sync app is handy, but i have had times where it wouldn’t start, lock or unlock the truck.
Stein mentioned Canadian trucks. When I was looking, I kept seeing advantage auto direct in Kent pop up with what seems like great deals on car gurus. I went to their lot to look at a few and found out they import all their trucks from Canada. Hard pass!
Post by: jackelope on January 27, 2020, 07:19:11 PM
settings — vehicle — driver assist (I think)
If you didn’t know that, there are probably lots of other things you’ll learn in there too.
Post by: Carl on January 28, 2020, 08:32:44 AM
Post by: Bango skank on January 28, 2020, 09:20:21 AM
Disable your rain sensing wipers in the settings. Left side steering wheel control.
settings — vehicle — driver assist (I think)
If you didn’t know that, there are probably lots of other things you’ll learn in there too.
Rain sensing wipers? Really? Christ, no wonder vehicles are so expensive. As if all the safety and emmissions regulations havent jacked up the cost of vehicles enough, every year there are more and more unnecessary little things like rain sensing wipers getting tacked on to every damn vehicle. How did we all possibly manage to get through life without rain sensing windshield wipers?
Post by: blackpowderhunter on January 28, 2020, 09:54:13 AM
had you really never heard of those? they've been on cars for a LONG time now..they're borderline standard at this point. rain sensing wipers is probably the last thing causing cars to become expensive..but i won't go there :chuckle: :dunno:Disable your rain sensing wipers in the settings. Left side steering wheel control.
settings — vehicle — driver assist (I think)
If you didn’t know that, there are probably lots of other things you’ll learn in there too.
Rain sensing wipers? Really? Christ, no wonder vehicles are so expensive. As if all the safety and emmissions regulations havent jacked up the cost of vehicles enough, every year there are more and more unnecessary little things like rain sensing wipers getting tacked on to every damn vehicle. How did we all possibly manage to get through life without rain sensing windshield wipers?
Post by: KFhunter on January 28, 2020, 09:59:01 AM
I'm going to have to buy these things by the case, about to install my 3rd as I have a CEL on again :bash:There are lots of reasons you'd get an evap leak code. Are you sure that's what's wrong with it?
2016 Colorado
whatever you buy, get a code reader tool, save a bunch of $
What fault code are you getting?
The same one for gas cap not being tight, or this canister, or a micro fuel leak.
It's for like 3-4 things, but I wipe the code, check my gas cap and assume a fuel line isn't leaking.
Last two times have given me about 20K miles after this purge valve change.
So ya it's an educated shot in the dark that this same purge valve has went bad again, but I can test it with a vacuum pump.
Post by: kselkhunter on January 28, 2020, 10:15:36 AM
Disable your rain sensing wipers in the settings. Left side steering wheel control.
settings — vehicle — driver assist (I think)
If you didn’t know that, there are probably lots of other things you’ll learn in there too.
Rain sensing wipers? Really? Christ, no wonder vehicles are so expensive. As if all the safety and emmissions regulations havent jacked up the cost of vehicles enough, every year there are more and more unnecessary little things like rain sensing wipers getting tacked on to every damn vehicle. How did we all possibly manage to get through life without rain sensing windshield wipers?
If rain sensing wipers get you going, whatever you do don't sit in one of the higher end trim models. :-)
My 2106 Ford has massaging front seats. Not kidding. I drive a lot up and down the west coast between the bay area, Portland, Seattle, and western Canada....yes those massaging seats come in handy on the long drives. :-) Never thought I'd use that feature....
I do enjoy all the new features in the Fords. Their voice activated system is better than the competition....so much easier changing Navigation verbally while driving. I like all the sensors and cameras for parking, as well as while driving. Adaptive cruise is nice to have. I haven't had the courage to push the "park assist" button for parallel and back in parking....I'm waiting to have a few dents first before I push that thing. Air conditioned seats are handy in the summertime, more than I expected. Heated steering wheel is really nice in the cold, and my "remote start" button is programmed to turn on the heated steering wheel and heated seats so after starting the Ford while eating breakfast by the time I get in the vehicle it's all toasty. Yeah...the perks on the top trim model Fords are really nice. Granted as long as my wife's 96 year old grandma stays alive I can still buy Fords on the original employee "Z" plan from decades ago so of course I max out the features on any Ford I buy as I'm paying far less than most.
Wait til you start seeing the Waymo and other self drive cars on the road next to you. Rain sensing wipers will be the least of the features to complain about after you look over and don't see a driver in the car next to you....their test vehicles are already on the road in the bay area and it's a creepy sight.
To the Op: The Ford's with the EcoBoost engines are good vehicles. No complaints at all for my 2016 Ford that I've owned 4 years as of this month. Been very reliable, good gas mileage, and I'd buy it over again.
Post by: nutntoit on January 28, 2020, 10:45:34 AM
Post by: luvmystang67 on January 28, 2020, 11:03:34 AM
buy your truck IN canada and save a ton of money.
Bringing them across the border isn't that bad, be a little selective, sure there could be a little rust here and there, if you take your time who cares. You could EASILY save 25% by buying in Canada and bringing it across the border yourself.
I mean to each their own, but is a truck not an airplane. A little frame surface rust... how long are you going to own it. If you're planning for a 10 year deal... how important is it? My brother has a Tacoma from Chicago down in Texas... it is a RUST BUCKET on the underside. It sucks for making modifications to and I think changing the brakes was a pain, but for the amount he saved its been worth it and its been a great and reliable truck for going on 4 years now. I don't think he plans on keeping it until death anyway.
Just some things to think about. Obviously cost is a concern because if it wasn't you'd just buy new. If you're buying used, are you willing to put up a with a little bit of surface rust to save a ton? Trade offs and to each their own. :twocents:
Post by: dreadi on January 28, 2020, 11:05:08 AM
It hasn't let me down. It picks up and goes with pep. I can haul my whole elk camp without a trailer in one trip. It has plenty of space inside. 36 gallon tank is great for trips. Adding my HAM radio was easy. Adding a light bar in the engine bay was easy, along with additional lights by the cab and additional reverse lights. All the things I like about it are strictly utilitarian.
Here's what I don't like.
* The fuel economy is no better than my previous truck of 17 years, a 2000 Chevy Silverado LT V8 2wd.
*The buttons and knobs on the dash are too small and not placed with ergonomics and the least driver distraction in mind. Think, gloved hands or big fingers, and having to spot check what you are about to press. The Chevy had big knobs to climate control.
*The length of the wheel base lends to the truck having a bit of shudder when accelerating from a stop, loaded with a yard of soil or loaded for elk camp.
*SYNC is a garbage. It works most of the time. When it doesn't work, I have to pull over, shut the truck off, take the key out, open the door, shut the door, lock the vehicle, unlock the vehicle, crank up. It's pretty much rebooting a computer.
*Waiting for the turbos to spool up.
In 2019 I took it in for body work (thanks valet parking). I was offered a loaner truck and I accepted the 2018 F-150 V8 they offered. It had A LOT MORE GIDDY UP off the line from a dead start. No waiting for the turbos to spool up. It was at that time I felt buyer's remorse. However, I do not plan on getting a new truck until this truck has given up the ghost. It has been reliable.
I saw that Canadian trucks was mentioned earlier. I took some notes when I was shopping and here's what I noted. There was a lot of used F-150s on the market brought in from Canada. The easy ways to tell they were imported was to look at the front of the truck for a engine block heater plug. ALL of the Canadian imports had this accessory. Also, ALL of them were programmed to have Day Time Running Lights on ALL THE TIME. Some people don't like that. Personally, I didn't care and they can be programmed at home with free software, a OBD to USB adapter and a computer.
If I had not been in a rush to get a replacement truck, I likely would haven't bought a different truck. My Chevy had 275,000 miles on it and it needed a $1500 service on the heads. I was not going to pay that amount of money for a service on a vehicle of equal cash value. One reason I choose Ford was that I wanted "something different". The Chevy was my first and only truck and I thought why not mix it up a bit. All my friends that I hunt with drove 4x4 Fords up in the Colockum and elsewhere during elk season and I knew from experience that I needed to get a 4 wheel drive truck if I was going to go places in typical foul weather or foul road conditions found up there, IF I was going to drive in it. My first time setting my own camp up there, I had my Chevy, and smartly did not drive a lot of places other did. In fact, I once drove all the way down Colockum Rd and hung a left just to the windfarm because I was not trusting that the roads up there would allow me to pass in 2wd. It worked out and I shot an elk 60 yards from the paved windfarm road. :) OK, I'll get back on track.
When I was shopping, I took particular note that the F-250 trucks did not have features that I didn't want to pay for. Their packages were much more inline with what I paid for when I bought the Chevy. I didn't have to pay for trim, when all I really wanted to pay for was utility. The F-250 truck packages were much more utilitarian and that's what I desired. I talked myself out of a 250 due to cost of ownership. What I do not remember is if there really would have been a significant cost of ownership difference. Perhaps the 250 would have been a couple dollars more and perhaps it would have a comparatively higher re-sale value, knowing that I'm likely to keep the truck well past a 1/4 million miles and I've been driving about 12,000 miles a year for the past 6-7 years.
Surely that would all depend on the truck and it's condition. Example: My dad bought a 1999 F-350 Dually diesel, used, from a private party in '99 or '00. Last week he sold it for $12,000 with 110,000 miles on it. It has the 7.3 motor made by International and is supposed to be a 400,000 mile motor. The buyer came from three states away to get it.
Post by: Stein on January 28, 2020, 11:41:44 AM
Post by: BULLBLASTER on January 28, 2020, 12:46:08 PM
Do you top off your gas tank when you fill up?I'm going to have to buy these things by the case, about to install my 3rd as I have a CEL on again :bash:There are lots of reasons you'd get an evap leak code. Are you sure that's what's wrong with it?
2016 Colorado
whatever you buy, get a code reader tool, save a bunch of $
What fault code are you getting?
The same one for gas cap not being tight, or this canister, or a micro fuel leak.
It's for like 3-4 things, but I wipe the code, check my gas cap and assume a fuel line isn't leaking.
Last two times have given me about 20K miles after this purge valve change.
So ya it's an educated shot in the dark that this same purge valve has went bad again, but I can test it with a vacuum pump.
Post by: Pnwrider on January 28, 2020, 01:49:17 PM
I'm going to have to buy these things by the case, about to install my 3rd as I have a CEL on again :bash:There are lots of reasons you'd get an evap leak code. Are you sure that's what's wrong with it?
2016 Colorado
whatever you buy, get a code reader tool, save a bunch of $
What fault code are you getting?
The same one for gas cap not being tight, or this canister, or a micro fuel leak.
It's for like 3-4 things, but I wipe the code, check my gas cap and assume a fuel line isn't leaking.
Last two times have given me about 20K miles after this purge valve change.
So ya it's an educated shot in the dark that this same purge valve has went bad again, but I can test it with a vacuum pump.
Newer fords don’t have a gas cap 🤷♂️
Post by: Pnwrider on January 28, 2020, 01:55:04 PM
I am going to play the devils advocate here and ask why not stick with a Toyota? I have a 2017 Tundra and it has been a great truck, tows awesome, has a ton of power and a LOT more room than a Tacoma inside. I get 15-16 mpg in town and 17-18 on the highway. 10-12 when towing, but I have only ever towed trailers over 5K pounds. MPG would probably be better with a 3500 lb trailer. My dad has a 2007 Tacoma and gets 16-17 mpg driving city/highway and about 7 mpg when towing his 5000 lb camper. So what I'm saying is MPG are basically the same. Without going on and bashing on he big 3 I will just say don't rule out Toyota. MPG is everything when you consider, initial investment, reliability and resale value. I have two family members with Tundras one of which has 250K miles and the other has 120K miles. Both have never had a single mechanical or electrical issue. Just normal maintenance. My FIL has a new Ram and it's been back at the dealer multiple times already for various issues. It's already had to be towed twice...
I tried really hard to buy a tundra crew max. They’re so down on features in the upper trim levels compared to the competition and so outdated, I just couldn’t do it. Resale is amazing though and I tend to upgrade my truck before the warranty runs out so it was still tempting. FWIW my truck has spent significant time at the dealer so I’m looking forward to shop for a new one soon!
Post by: KFhunter on January 28, 2020, 02:13:37 PM
I'm going to have to buy these things by the case, about to install my 3rd as I have a CEL on again :bash:There are lots of reasons you'd get an evap leak code. Are you sure that's what's wrong with it?
2016 Colorado
whatever you buy, get a code reader tool, save a bunch of $
What fault code are you getting?
The same one for gas cap not being tight, or this canister, or a micro fuel leak.
It's for like 3-4 things, but I wipe the code, check my gas cap and assume a fuel line isn't leaking.
Last two times have given me about 20K miles after this purge valve change.
So ya it's an educated shot in the dark that this same purge valve has went bad again, but I can test it with a vacuum pump.
Newer fords don’t have a gas cap 🤷♂️
Oh sorry, I didn't realize this was a ford only thread :dunno:
Post by: Mudman on January 28, 2020, 04:00:36 PM
Post by: Special T on January 28, 2020, 04:37:07 PM
What blows my mind is nobody seems to care about mpg anymore? These new half ton power houses still suck fuel like a banshee! New Godzilla 7.3 for example, or ecoboost maybe still real thirsty when ya "work" em. Isnt that what a truck is for, work?? I will stick with my 12mpg towing diesel pig. Unless gas can tow at 12mpg? Maybe next truck will be a Tesla...
The 7.3 is because fleet truck will rarely have diesel because the emission crap puts them in the shop too much. down time is more important than mileage. If it aint turning it aint earning! besides how many times do you need to be towed to the shop while on vacation before the fuel bill is a break even proposition?
Post by: Stein on January 28, 2020, 08:48:47 PM
What blows my mind is nobody seems to care about mpg anymore? These new half ton power houses still suck fuel like a banshee! New Godzilla 7.3 for example, or ecoboost maybe still real thirsty when ya "work" em. Isnt that what a truck is for, work?? I will stick with my 12mpg towing diesel pig. Unless gas can tow at 12mpg? Maybe next truck will be a Tesla...
I don't know, they pretty much all get 20+MPG on the highway which is awesome in my book. I moved from a 5.3 Chev to the 5.0 Ford and went from 15 to 21 mpg under identical situations on the highway - that's a 40% improvement!
I would guess the average F-150 owner is towing a pretty small percentage of the time and even then they do ok. I find a hard time finding any fault with any of the engines in the lineup, Ford really jumped ahead of the competition in my book and this is coming from a lifetime Chevy driver, the 350 and then the 5.3 which are still very solid engines, but the current Ford engines are really a step ahead of anything I looked at.
Post by: Mudman on January 28, 2020, 09:15:57 PM
Post by: jackelope on January 28, 2020, 09:19:43 PM
Good points, I guess I am just disappointed in all the tech not resulting in a gas engine with better mpg? I wouldn't own a newer emission diesel unless $ didn't matter of course. Or deleted?
There are plenty of ecoboost owners getting 25mph Highway. Get the little ecoboost and now you’re into the upper 20’s. I’m not sure where your concern is coming from. Hell the 5.0 coyote motor will do low 20’s. The 3.5 with an average sized travel trailer will get you 13-15mpg all day. My early 2000’s half ton Silverado got 13mpg empty around town and about 16 highway.
Post by: jackelope on January 28, 2020, 09:23:32 PM
I'm going to have to buy these things by the case, about to install my 3rd as I have a CEL on again :bash:There are lots of reasons you'd get an evap leak code. Are you sure that's what's wrong with it?
2016 Colorado
whatever you buy, get a code reader tool, save a bunch of $
What fault code are you getting?
The same one for gas cap not being tight, or this canister, or a micro fuel leak.
It's for like 3-4 things, but I wipe the code, check my gas cap and assume a fuel line isn't leaking.
Last two times have given me about 20K miles after this purge valve change.
So ya it's an educated shot in the dark that this same purge valve has went bad again, but I can test it with a vacuum pump.
It’ll be a vacuum leak because the leak detection pump detected too much vacuum during a test. Not an actual fuel leak. There are lots of things that would cause a leak detected fault code. And there are multiple leak codes also based on size of leak detected.
Post by: jackelope on January 28, 2020, 09:28:42 PM
Disable your rain sensing wipers in the settings. Left side steering wheel control.
settings — vehicle — driver assist (I think)
If you didn’t know that, there are probably lots of other things you’ll learn in there too.
Rain sensing wipers? Really? Christ, no wonder vehicles are so expensive. As if all the safety and emmissions regulations havent jacked up the cost of vehicles enough, every year there are more and more unnecessary little things like rain sensing wipers getting tacked on to every damn vehicle. How did we all possibly manage to get through life without rain sensing windshield wipers?
Rain sensing wipers have been a thing for more than 10 years. And they’re usually options. Not everything has them. Lots of bells and whistles will blow your mind if you think those are new :chuckle: Wait till you’re driving one that steers for you and slows down for you when you’re in cruise control approaching a slower moving vehicle.
Post by: Mudman on January 28, 2020, 09:47:05 PM
Sorry but I meant a truck doing truck stuff and honestly I doubt those mpg #'s. Manufacture claims and real life tow #'s aren't legit imop. I do not believe an eco will tow a "normal" sized TT to Spokane with 14mpg. I dunno I could be wrong (not the last time either) but I research these new trucks and reviews and they do not get that kind of mpg typically. For sure I haven't experienced anyone claiming silly mpg like that. Maybe an ecodiesel?Good points, I guess I am just disappointed in all the tech not resulting in a gas engine with better mpg? I wouldn't own a newer emission diesel unless $ didn't matter of course. Or deleted?
There are plenty of ecoboost owners getting 25mph Highway. Get the little ecoboost and now you’re into the upper 20’s. I’m not sure where your concern is coming from. Hell the 5.0 coyote motor will do low 20’s. The 3.5 with an average sized travel trailer will get you 13-15mpg all day. My early 2000’s half ton Silverado got 13mpg empty around town and about 16 highway.
Post by: dreadi on January 28, 2020, 10:52:12 PM
Ford went to aluminum bodies in 2015 I believe, so that is a big difference. I think it's something like 700 pounds lighter which noticeably helps in both mileage and acceleration as well as rust.Earlier. My 2013 is aluminum body.
Post by: dreadi on January 28, 2020, 11:18:53 PM
If you get a base model no frills or thrills ecoboost, expect to get near there.
Tires, weight, and most of all, driving conditions will dictate your fuel economy. I can get 21mpg from Capitol Forest to Tacoma if I take easy and keep about 60mph
Post by: huntnnw on January 28, 2020, 11:21:11 PM
My son has one of the early model Ram Eco diesels, and loves it, he pulls a toy hauler that his truck is rated for.👍
my wifes cousin has one of these, they love it and pull a 24" trailer. I rode in it a couple weeks ago a nice truck. I was looking at them, but they dont make a long bed is what i need.
Post by: dreadi on January 28, 2020, 11:28:02 PM
My son has one of the early model Ram Eco diesels, and loves it, he pulls a toy hauler that his truck is rated for.👍
my wifes cousin has one of these, they love it and pull a 24" trailer. I rode in it a couple weeks ago a nice truck. I was looking at them, but they dont make a long bed is what i need.
What do they haul with that trailer?
Post by: huntnnw on January 28, 2020, 11:39:27 PM
Post by: eastsidemallard74 on January 29, 2020, 06:54:21 AM
Post by: Mudman on January 29, 2020, 08:55:29 AM
Post by: Carl on January 29, 2020, 09:10:37 AM
I had a 17 f150 with the eco boost, and I think it pulled my trailer beautifully. I have a 31' Jayco, about 7k empty. It was my 1st Ford ever owning, and I was super impressed.
What size Eco Boost was it? They have 2 sizes, right?
Post by: BULLBLASTER on January 29, 2020, 09:54:48 AM
2015 was the first year of the aluminum body. When they switched body style.Ford went to aluminum bodies in 2015 I believe, so that is a big difference. I think it's something like 700 pounds lighter which noticeably helps in both mileage and acceleration as well as rust.Earlier. My 2013 is aluminum body.
Post by: Widgeondeke on January 29, 2020, 10:23:04 AM
I did research and these were my findings. My biggest items were interior comfort for my entire family
F-150: tons of interior room(head & leg) front & rear. I get 19.1 mpg on my crappy commute and 22-23mpg on I-5 from Everett to Olympia with 750lbs in the bed. The back seat floor area doesn't have the hump, you could flip the seats up and sleep there no issues. I am loving this truck. The 5.0 motor was very close to the same mpg
Silverado: not as much space in the back seat. good head room
Tacoma: no head space, I am 5'11" and my head hit the roof(seats had no vertical adjustments)
Tundra: higher priced, but great resale value. only real Con less MPG
Dodge: more expensive and less MPG
Trim packages can move the price around alot. I wanted the bucket seats with center console/shifter. That added $1,500 over the 40/20/40 seats and column shifter
A kid at work got the same truck with 5.5' bed and did the leveling lift on frontend and more aggressive tread tires on his. it dropped his commute MPG down to 17.8 from 19
I know the smaller 2.7 Ecoboost gets even better MPG, but has less towing capacity
As others have stated. A lead foot will lower the MPG even on the Ecoboost
:twocents: :hello:
Post by: jackelope on January 29, 2020, 12:07:39 PM
Sorry but I meant a truck doing truck stuff and honestly I doubt those mpg #'s. Manufacture claims and real life tow #'s aren't legit imop. I do not believe an eco will tow a "normal" sized TT to Spokane with 14mpg. I dunno I could be wrong (not the last time either) but I research these new trucks and reviews and they do not get that kind of mpg typically. For sure I haven't experienced anyone claiming silly mpg like that. Maybe an ecodiesel?Good points, I guess I am just disappointed in all the tech not resulting in a gas engine with better mpg? I wouldn't own a newer emission diesel unless $ didn't matter of course. Or deleted?
There are plenty of ecoboost owners getting 25mph Highway. Get the little ecoboost and now you’re into the upper 20’s. I’m not sure where your concern is coming from. Hell the 5.0 coyote motor will do low 20’s. The 3.5 with an average sized travel trailer will get you 13-15mpg all day. My early 2000’s half ton Silverado got 13mpg empty around town and about 16 highway.
I might be 1-2mpg off I guess, and truth be told, 95% of truck owners around here don't do truck stuff anyway. I'd wager that most of the bro's with their lifted and deleted Cummins trucks don't do truck stuff with them. You're different in that you use your truck, but you're in the minority. I'm surrounded by these trucks day in and day out. The numbers aren't "silly." Like I said, I might be 1-2mpg off. And the mpg's in an Ecoboost will vary greatly from driver to driver in mostly the amount the turbos spend spooled up. I don't own a Ford, but I talk to the owners all day every day. We've probably taken 20-25 F150's in today and I'm a talker. I love to yak with customers about their trucks.
Post by: jackelope on January 29, 2020, 12:09:41 PM
If you get a fully loaded ecoboost, don’t expect 25mpg at 70mph.
If you get a base model no frills or thrills ecoboost, expect to get near there.
Tires, weight, and most of all, driving conditions will dictate your fuel economy. I can get 21mpg from Capitol Forest to Tacoma if I take easy and keep about 60mph
Yours is a 13 though, right? I am referring to newer aluminum(lighter) trucks with newer technology and most importantly, the 10 spd transmission.
And yours is a steel body.
Post by: jackelope on January 29, 2020, 12:10:12 PM
I had a 17 f150 with the eco boost, and I think it pulled my trailer beautifully. I have a 31' Jayco, about 7k empty. It was my 1st Ford ever owning, and I was super impressed.
What size Eco Boost was it? They have 2 sizes, right?
There is a 2.7 and a 3.5 ecoboost available in the F150's.
Post by: eastsidemallard74 on January 29, 2020, 01:44:43 PM
Post by: Grit dog on January 31, 2020, 07:09:25 AM
If you’re looking at 2018+ trucks, you owe it to yourself to shop for the right deal on a new truck.
The prices for almost new vehicles is, IMO, more than it should be.
Good economy, too many paying sticker price and then financing the whole thing and then some, local prices, etc.
Not much if any savings to go slightly used in this market.
And unless I could score that great deal locally, which appears to be not too likely, I’d plan on traveling for the right deal.
Post by: Carl on February 01, 2020, 01:52:07 PM
Extreamly low inventory. Most dealers are getting them from BC. They tell be BC is fine but stay way from those from Alberta.
Heafty price tags and they're selling for that price!
I'm now thinking about GMC or RAM. I don't mind traveling to get a deal - I just can't find one. :chuckle:
Post by: luvmystang67 on February 03, 2020, 08:59:41 AM
What I'm finding (or not finding) is getting depressing! >:(
Extreamly low inventory. Most dealers are getting them from BC. They tell be BC is fine but stay way from those from Alberta.
Heafty price tags and they're selling for that price!
I'm now thinking about GMC or RAM. I don't mind traveling to get a deal - I just can't find one. :chuckle:
GO TO CANADA, use your eyes. If it looks good its fine (look at the underside). You'll literally pay 25% less, you can pick it out on your own, and you're not stuck with what people have here.
The reason you don't want a Canadian truck is they may be rusty, and they may be beat. If you look at a truck and find one that is neither... BUY IT.
Bringing it back across is about an hour long deal, tops. You don't have to pay tax in Canada (this may take some sweet talking), and you'll have a lot of selection at low low prices.
Or... buy new here.
Buying Canadian here is dumb, primarily from the price perspective. :twocents:
Post by: Stein on February 03, 2020, 09:05:07 AM
I drove up to BC and looked at trucks and they were all the same rusty things I didn't want. My dad bought a Suburban in Alberta that was a great deal, he drove it and sold it to me and I drove it to almost 300k with no problems, so it is possible. What you are looking for is a truck that isn't driven during the winter, which is pretty close to finding a true spike elk in general season.
Keep at it, I had bookmarks for the dealers with good inventory as well as offerup, craigslist and autotrader and checked them at least every other day.
Post by: baker5150 on February 03, 2020, 09:28:38 AM
What I'm finding (or not finding) is getting depressing! >:(
Extreamly low inventory. Most dealers are getting them from BC. They tell be BC is fine but stay way from those from Alberta.
Heafty price tags and they're selling for that price!
I'm now thinking about GMC or RAM. I don't mind traveling to get a deal - I just can't find one. :chuckle:
GO TO CANADA, use your eyes. If it looks good its fine (look at the underside). You'll literally pay 25% less, you can pick it out on your own, and you're not stuck with what people have here.
The reason you don't want a Canadian truck is they may be rusty, and they may be beat. If you look at a truck and find one that is neither... BUY IT.
Bringing it back across is about an hour long deal, tops. You don't have to pay tax in Canada (this may take some sweet talking), and you'll have a lot of selection at low low prices.
Or... buy new here.
Buying Canadian here is dumb, primarily from the price perspective. :twocents:
You will have to pay GST when purchasing in Canada, but not PST.
There may be other fees as well. I ran into some of this last year while purchasing in BC. It's easy if you know what to expect and have all your paperwork ready to go.
https://www.ezbordercrossing.com/the-inspection-experience/import-a-vehicle/importing-vehicle-from-canada/
Post by: luvmystang67 on February 03, 2020, 10:30:20 AM
What I'm finding (or not finding) is getting depressing! >:(
Extreamly low inventory. Most dealers are getting them from BC. They tell be BC is fine but stay way from those from Alberta.
Heafty price tags and they're selling for that price!
I'm now thinking about GMC or RAM. I don't mind traveling to get a deal - I just can't find one. :chuckle:
GO TO CANADA, use your eyes. If it looks good its fine (look at the underside). You'll literally pay 25% less, you can pick it out on your own, and you're not stuck with what people have here.
The reason you don't want a Canadian truck is they may be rusty, and they may be beat. If you look at a truck and find one that is neither... BUY IT.
Bringing it back across is about an hour long deal, tops. You don't have to pay tax in Canada (this may take some sweet talking), and you'll have a lot of selection at low low prices.
Or... buy new here.
Buying Canadian here is dumb, primarily from the price perspective. :twocents:
You will have to pay GST when purchasing in Canada, but not PST.
There may be other fees as well. I ran into some of this last year while purchasing in BC. It's easy if you know what to expect and have all your paperwork ready to go.
https://www.ezbordercrossing.com/the-inspection-experience/import-a-vehicle/importing-vehicle-from-canada/
I literally just did this. When the sale is intended for export it does not need to be paid. The dealer paid it and then requested it back from the government so that I didn't have to deal with it. They'll usually agree to make the deal.
It was 2 forms. No fees. Super easy. One trick, no good way that I found to secure financing, so you had to pay cash. I paid 20k for a 2010 crew cab duramax with 135k on the clock. Month 5, no issues, couldn't be happier. I plan on it being a 10-15 year truck for me.
Post by: baker5150 on February 03, 2020, 10:58:32 AM
What I'm finding (or not finding) is getting depressing! >:(
Extreamly low inventory. Most dealers are getting them from BC. They tell be BC is fine but stay way from those from Alberta.
Heafty price tags and they're selling for that price!
I'm now thinking about GMC or RAM. I don't mind traveling to get a deal - I just can't find one. :chuckle:
GO TO CANADA, use your eyes. If it looks good its fine (look at the underside). You'll literally pay 25% less, you can pick it out on your own, and you're not stuck with what people have here.
The reason you don't want a Canadian truck is they may be rusty, and they may be beat. If you look at a truck and find one that is neither... BUY IT.
Bringing it back across is about an hour long deal, tops. You don't have to pay tax in Canada (this may take some sweet talking), and you'll have a lot of selection at low low prices.
Or... buy new here.
Buying Canadian here is dumb, primarily from the price perspective. :twocents:
You will have to pay GST when purchasing in Canada, but not PST.
There may be other fees as well. I ran into some of this last year while purchasing in BC. It's easy if you know what to expect and have all your paperwork ready to go.
https://www.ezbordercrossing.com/the-inspection-experience/import-a-vehicle/importing-vehicle-from-canada/
I literally just did this. When the sale is intended for export it does not need to be paid. The dealer paid it and then requested it back from the government so that I didn't have to deal with it. They'll usually agree to make the deal.
It was 2 forms. No fees. Super easy. One trick, no good way that I found to secure financing, so you had to pay cash. I paid 20k for a 2010 crew cab duramax with 135k on the clock. Month 5, no issues, couldn't be happier. I plan on it being a 10-15 year truck for me.
20k would put you under the exemption anyway. So whatever they told you they were paying and getting back was a crock.
I've purchased around a dozen vehicles in BC the past 3 or 4 years. All new. GST gets paid
Post by: Carl on February 03, 2020, 03:21:09 PM
Quote
20k would put you under the exemption anyway. So whatever they told you they were paying and getting back was a crock.
I've purchased around a dozen vehicles in BC the past 3 or 4 years. All new. GST gets paid
Is this a percentage of the purchase price I can calculate?
Post by: luvmystang67 on February 03, 2020, 05:03:44 PM
Quote
20k would put you under the exemption anyway. So whatever they told you they were paying and getting back was a crock.
I've purchased around a dozen vehicles in BC the past 3 or 4 years. All new. GST gets paid
Is this a percentage of the purchase price I can calculate?
GST is 5%. If you're not the end consumer of the vehicle, then you don't have to pay that if exported. How / what level of demonstration you have for that is up to you and the dealer you purchase from.