Post by: Pete112288 on February 11, 2020, 11:15:53 PM
I had noticed the heat did not put much out. Then I noticed the sound of running water behind the dash when I would take off from a stop or even in park when the RPMs went up.
Part of buying a new vehicle I do a full tune up and some other work. It has 177K miles and so I have been bringing a lot of stuff up to par beyond just a normal tune up.
I drained & flushed the coolant system, new thermostat, and new water pump.
If I work at bleeding/burping the system of air I can get the heat and defrost blowing hot at idle and at high RPMs. However, once the RPMs go up over 25K or so and then drop back down I can start hearing the water running sound again and my heat goes cold. From that point if I keep the RPMs high then it stays hot, but once the RPMs drop, so does the heat.
The running temp of the vehicle never has an issue, it stays within normal running temps.
There is no smell of coolant inside the vehicle at any point in time and it has no other symptoms of a bad heater core.
There is no outward leak of coolant anywhere. Occasionally after a decent drive I can get out and catch a very faint smell of coolant but no idea where the odor is coming from. No steam, smoke, or drips of coolant anywhere.
I took it to a mechanic I trust and they did a full flush as well and bled the system of air. They said they tried it the "traditional" way and also tried putting the "vac" on it. Heat will get hot and be fine in both vent and defrost, but then after RPMs go up for a moment then back down, it goes cold again.
They checked it out again today and tried a different "purge" as they called it and asked that I drive it a bit and report back to them and go from there. But after a few minutes of driving and RPMs going up, it just went cold again. Whenever I pick up RPMs it will get hot, but go cold when they drop. They also said they checked and tested for a possible issue with the head gasket and they said that is not the problem at all.
Anyone have any ideas or had to deal with this before? I am willing to pay the mechanic, however I am hoping maybe I can find a lead before I just hand it over to them to have to go through it head to toe for their hourly rate.
Thank you for any help!
Oh, and the mechanic also told me that the radiator fans are not cycling on. When the A/C compressor is running as in running A/C or defrost the fan will come on. However otherwise the fan does not come on. The mechanic said he tested all the relays and fuses for it and they are good.
Post by: 172ndVet on February 11, 2020, 11:56:49 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Sandberm on February 12, 2020, 12:53:11 AM
My s10 also has that water running sound behind the dash right after the truck is started and when first accelerating. I have no issues with heat however. Ive gotten used to this sound and I dont worry about it. The control knobs for where the air blows and the temperature adjustment run off of vacuum. I'm not exactly sure how it works but on top of the transfer case is a "transfer case switch" with three vacuum lines running from it. One of those lines runs up to the engine compartment on the drivers side to a round plastic ball ( an accumulator) located in the drivers side front fender. It tees off somewhere right before that and a vacuum line goes through the firewall to run the temp/fan control inside the cab.
When the transfer case switch goes bad it allows transmission fluid to enter these lines and it flows into the temp/fan control "module"(whatever you want to call it) that you operate in the cab. The transmission fluid ruins that module and maybe the actuators that open and close to direct the airflow. On my s-10 I would pull the vacuum hose apart at that tee in the engine compartment. If I see red transmission fluid in that hose then I know that switch is bad.
The other thing that very well could be bad is that those vacuum lines are rotten and are leaking, thus you do not have adequate vacuum to run the temp control. On my s10 one of those 3 lines that run out of the transfer case switch is what engages the 4wd. My 4wd quit working and all I had to do was replace that chunk of vacuum hose to fix the problem.
So, in summary, i think you have a vacuum leak and/or a bad transfer case switch (if your vehicle has that switch like my s-10).
Post by: Timberstalker on February 12, 2020, 04:00:16 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on February 12, 2020, 06:25:14 AM
Post by: Smokeploe on February 12, 2020, 08:26:39 AM
Another thing check the hose going to the vacuum shutoff valve in the heater hose, the inlet side, also check the valve it could be corroded inside.
Post by: jackelope on February 12, 2020, 08:36:02 AM
How did they check for a blown head gasket?
:iamwithstupid:
Post by: Sandberm on February 12, 2020, 08:45:48 AM
Sounds like a bad mix door.
Google sure points to that direction
Post by: jackelope on February 12, 2020, 08:50:13 AM
The water/gurgling noise is there because there is air in the cooling system. It’s either losing coolant or there is air being introduced into the system. That’s my internet guess.
Post by: Woodchuck on February 12, 2020, 09:12:50 AM
A blend door has no way to cause a gurgling air noise.X7
The water/gurgling noise is there because there is air in the cooling system. It’s either losing coolant or there is air being introduced into the system. That’s my internet guess.
Post by: jackelope on February 12, 2020, 09:15:26 AM
A blend door has no way to cause a gurgling air noise.X7
The water/gurgling noise is there because there is air in the cooling system. It’s either losing coolant or there is air being introduced into the system. That’s my internet guess.
times 7, huh?
Wow...thanks!
Post by: timberghost72 on February 12, 2020, 02:49:29 PM
If true that you are not losing coolant either internally or externally and you are not getting warmer than normal temps then its doubtful it is a head gasket. And if your engine temp did go up due to head gasket your heater would also get hot.
Let your vehicle run for a bit with the heater off tem at low setting and check your heater hose temps. Should be similar.
Then run heater for a bit temp hot. Check hoses again. Outlet hose should be cooler than the inlet.
Start with the basics first.
:twocents:
Post by: Woodchuck on February 12, 2020, 02:54:04 PM
Sounds like you have a partially plugged heater core. With a partially plugged heater core you won't get much heat output except when you are reving up like you stated. Also it will make that gurgling noise due to inefficient internal flow.Where does the air to make the gurgling sound come from? A car's cooling system in proper working order is sealed and contains no air.
If true that you are not losing coolant either internally or externally and you are not getting warmer than normal temps then its doubtful it is a head gasket. And if your engine temp did go up due to head gasket your heater would also get hot.
Let your vehicle run for a bit with the heater off tem at low setting and check your heater hose temps. Should be similar.
Then run heater for a bit temp hot. Check hoses again. Outlet hose should be cooler than the inlet.
Start with the basics first.
:twocents:
Post by: full choke on February 12, 2020, 03:50:27 PM
https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor?q=121g
Hope you get things working. I hate vehicle issues.
Post by: Woodchuck on February 12, 2020, 03:54:00 PM
I am not a mechanic, so take this for what it is worth, but it sounds like this is the part you need:Pretty sure you nailed it. :tup:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor?q=121g
Hope you get things working. I hate vehicle issues.
Post by: Buckmark on February 12, 2020, 04:35:09 PM
Post by: Woodchuck on February 12, 2020, 04:50:58 PM
177K on a 3.4 cut your future losses and sell it :twocents:Not the worst advice I have seen handed out.
Post by: timberghost72 on February 12, 2020, 05:21:00 PM
Sounds like you have a partially plugged heater core. With a partially plugged heater core you won't get much heat output except when you are reving up like you stated. Also it will make that gurgling noise due to inefficient internal flow.Where does the air to make the gurgling sound come from? A car's cooling system in proper working order is sealed and contains no air.
If true that you are not losing coolant either internally or externally and you are not getting warmer than normal temps then its doubtful it is a head gasket. And if your engine temp did go up due to head gasket your heater would also get hot.
Let your vehicle run for a bit with the heater off tem at low setting and check your heater hose temps. Should be similar.
Then run heater for a bit temp hot. Check hoses again. Outlet hose should be cooler than the inlet.
Start with the basics first.
:twocents:
I would say you've answered that in your own response. It does not sound like this is a properly working cooling system.
It could possibly be air from not being able to bleed it out correctly due to blockage but it may not be air at all. It sounds like cavitation from the coolant not being able to flow through the heater core properly.
But who knows. Hard to say over the interwebs and without looking at it.
177K on a 3.4 cut your future losses and sell it :twocents:Not the worst advice I have seen handed out.
:yeah:
Post by: Timberstalker on February 12, 2020, 07:07:03 PM
@jackelope
@Woodchuck
Post by: Buckmark on February 12, 2020, 07:16:13 PM
Sounds like a bad mix door.:chuckle:
@jackelope
@Woodchuck
Post by: jackelope on February 12, 2020, 09:08:11 PM
Sounds like a bad mix door.
@jackelope
@Woodchuck
What the H E double hockey sticks is a mix door?
Post by: Pete112288 on February 12, 2020, 10:11:13 PM
My best leads so far is that there may be a partial blockage in the heater core area. I also was just told that it is possible that intake gaskets could be bad and could be sucking in air from that. The guy said that Dexcool is more acidic and can cause that to happen to the gaskets besides the fact of the age and miles of them as they are probably original. The mechanic seemed fairly certain that there is not a clogged heater core, but if it is only partially clogged.... :dunno:
I hope I can nail down one of those. The hoses seem all good at this point but wont be overlooked.
If with all that I can figure that part out it will be great.
Then gotta see why the fan only kicks on when the ac compressor is running.
Thanks everyone for the help, I appreciate it very much!
Post by: jackelope on February 12, 2020, 10:21:12 PM
The mix door is what moves to adjust from the different options, dash vent, floor heat, etc. And it appears to be operating correctly.
Temperature blend doors and mode doors. Blend doors adjust temperature and mode doors open and close to put air out the floor or dash or defrost vents.
None of them would cause the problems you’re experiencing.
Also, I was just messing with Timberstalker.
Post by: Pete112288 on February 13, 2020, 12:49:37 AM
The mix door is what moves to adjust from the different options, dash vent, floor heat, etc. And it appears to be operating correctly.
Temperature blend doors and mode doors. Blend doors adjust temperature and mode doors open and close to put air out the floor or dash or defrost vents.
None of them would cause the problems you’re experiencing.
Also, I was just messing with Timberstalker.
:tup:
Post by: timberghost72 on February 13, 2020, 05:23:24 AM
The mix door is what moves to adjust from the different options, dash vent, floor heat, etc. And it appears to be operating correctly.
My best leads so far is that there may be a partial blockage in the heater core area. I also was just told that it is possible that intake gaskets could be bad and could be sucking in air from that. The guy said that Dexcool is more acidic and can cause that to happen to the gaskets besides the fact of the age and miles of them as they are probably original. The mechanic seemed fairly certain that there is not a clogged heater core, but if it is only partially clogged.... :dunno:
I hope I can nail down one of those. The hoses seem all good at this point but wont be overlooked.
If with all that I can figure that part out it will be great.
Then gotta see why the fan only kicks on when the ac compressor is running.
Thanks everyone for the help, I appreciate it very much!
If your intake gaskets were leaking between a coolant port you'd have coolant going into your intake not sucking air into your cooling system. Your cooling system is pressurized and your intake manifold is under a vacuum.
Post by: Fl0und3rz on February 13, 2020, 07:42:36 AM
A blend door has no way to cause a gurgling air noise.
The water/gurgling noise is there because there is air in the cooling system. It’s either losing coolant or there is air being introduced into the system. That’s my internet guess.
:yeah:
Had the gurgling after breaking into my F350's system. Heat worked. Ran it like that for a year. Then I topped off radiator and some in the overflow tank. Gurgling went away.
To be sure, you want to make sure you are adding coolant only to make up for displaced air and not lost coolant.
Post by: Buckmark on February 13, 2020, 04:19:05 PM
The mix door is what moves to adjust from the different options, dash vent, floor heat, etc. And it appears to be operating correctly.You need a new mechanic :twocents:
My best leads so far is that there may be a partial blockage in the heater core area. I also was just told that it is possible that intake gaskets could be bad and could be sucking in air from that. The guy said that Dexcool is more acidic and can cause that to happen to the gaskets besides the fact of the age and miles of them as they are probably original. The mechanic seemed fairly certain that there is not a clogged heater core, but if it is only partially clogged.... :dunno:
I hope I can nail down one of those. The hoses seem all good at this point but wont be overlooked.
If with all that I can figure that part out it will be great.
Then gotta see why the fan only kicks on when the ac compressor is running.
Thanks everyone for the help, I appreciate it very much!
I could write paragraphs about what you've been told and all about the calamities of a 3.4 with this many miles and cooling system issues. But i wont, good luck.
Post by: jackelope on February 13, 2020, 05:35:49 PM
I'd say quit while you're ahead but you're already in deep.
I'm with Buckmark. Your guy doesn't know what he's talking about. If you don't bag it, take it to someone who knows what they're doing(a dealership service department or maybe a different shop) and pay someone 1 hour's worth of time to accurately diagnose the problem. You don't have to fix it with them. Quit throwing parts at it, quit flushing the cooling system and quit guessing and have someone diagnose it.
Does Dexcool still have the same issues it had 15-20 years ago?
Post by: Timberstalker on February 13, 2020, 07:12:21 PM
@jackelope
@Woodchuck
More to follow.
Post by: jackelope on February 13, 2020, 07:23:44 PM
May be the blend door actuator. Still researching this as I type.
@jackelope
@Woodchuck
More to follow.
Fo sho. Didn’t think of that one. The coolant modulator in the mix door actuator motor is probably intermittently failing.
Are you stalking me?
Post by: deerlick on February 13, 2020, 10:06:59 PM
Post by: Buckmark on February 14, 2020, 09:20:34 AM
I usually jear about how shops have that fancy gadget you just plug in and tells you whats wrong, maybe try one of those.:DOH: Please tell me your kidding
Post by: Sandberm on February 14, 2020, 09:30:12 AM
The mix door is what moves to adjust from the different options, dash vent, floor heat, etc. And it appears to be operating correctly.You need a new mechanic :twocents:
My best leads so far is that there may be a partial blockage in the heater core area. I also was just told that it is possible that intake gaskets could be bad and could be sucking in air from that. The guy said that Dexcool is more acidic and can cause that to happen to the gaskets besides the fact of the age and miles of them as they are probably original. The mechanic seemed fairly certain that there is not a clogged heater core, but if it is only partially clogged.... :dunno:
I hope I can nail down one of those. The hoses seem all good at this point but wont be overlooked.
If with all that I can figure that part out it will be great.
Then gotta see why the fan only kicks on when the ac compressor is running.
Thanks everyone for the help, I appreciate it very much!
I could write paragraphs about what you've been told and all about the calamities of a 3.4 with this many miles and cooling system issues. But i wont, good luck.
Go ahead Buck, spill the beans. Are you a mechanic by trade or did you own one of these vehicles?
Post by: Woodchuck on February 14, 2020, 09:33:37 AM
Post by: Buckmark on February 14, 2020, 10:00:56 AM
There are a few members in the repair business that i suspect agree with what ive responded with before?
Jackelope, Woodchuck, Coach and others i wont name as im not sure they want it known that they are/were techs etc.
From an engine stand point the 3.4 is not bad BUT i suffers from cooling system issues as you get to the upper mileage range that can be costly to repair when you are paying someone to do the repairs, my 3.1 had head gasket issues around 180k which if i had to pay someone to fix i would not of, but since my cost was parts only at wholesale i did it and as far as i know its still running (traded in at 235k).
Post by: Woodchuck on February 14, 2020, 11:03:32 AM
Post by: jackelope on February 14, 2020, 11:12:13 AM
I usually jear about how shops have that fancy gadget you just plug in and tells you whats wrong, maybe try one of those.
That will work about as well as @Timberstalker 's mix door actuator motor in this scenario.
Really, that will work as well as his mix door motor actuator in any scenario you expect the thing to just tell you what's wrong when you plug it in.
Post by: h20hunter on February 14, 2020, 11:19:53 AM
:dunno: :stirthepot:
Post by: Woodchuck on February 14, 2020, 11:28:01 AM
Service guys are so overrated imo. Just go the the parts store, they plug the thingy in, diagnoses done, buy the parts, put em in. Pretty simple.:yeah: And don't get me started on parts guys, sheesh :bash:
:dunno: :stirthepot:
Post by: h20hunter on February 14, 2020, 11:29:15 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on February 14, 2020, 11:36:21 AM
Post by: Timberstalker on February 14, 2020, 12:12:35 PM
Just determined it cannot be the mix door or the mix door actuator.
FYI to all interested parties.
@jackelope
@Woodchuck
Post by: jackelope on February 14, 2020, 12:23:35 PM
Damn it.
Just determined it cannot be the mix door or the mix door actuator.
FYI to all interested parties.
@jackelope
@Woodchuck
Post by: deerlick on February 14, 2020, 01:06:38 PM
Post by: Buckmark on February 14, 2020, 01:24:02 PM
Parts guys are like catchers, all catchers want to be pitchers :chuckle:
*
I will add that as far as “air” getting in the system that a breech in the system (leak/lack of proper pressurization) can cause non obvious coolant loss (visual coolant on the ground ), vapor venting or evaporation can cause the system to become low which then leaves a void in the system which is an air space that can air-rate the system causing things like cavitation, gurgling, low heat output, interupted fan operation etc.
You state the fans don’t work under non override situations but no overheating at idle? You state you sometimes get a coolant smell (that indicates a leak or loss of pressure, like a bad coolant system cap not holding pressure) we know the fan circuit is good as they work in override (A/C on), heater core blockage can be an issue etc, there is more than one singular issue with your situation i feel but thats all i can guess given the info at hand. I also dont feel like an hour diag would get to the root of the issue, but that is my opinion.
I also will add that head gasket issues, intake gasket issues can also be culprits to cooling system issues, both of which are known problems with the 3.4
*
Like i said before, based on what you posted you need a new mechanic. Pressure test? HC test with block test fluid? Very thorough visual inspection after a hard run test, Scan data of CTS for fan control (sorry im not in a place that i can look up fan circut operation for your vehicle at the moment). I have lots of questions that run down a check list as i do this.
Post by: h20hunter on February 14, 2020, 02:09:27 PM
Advisors: deal with car owners.
I'm good, don't need to be on the mound! :tup:
Fyi, DNRY
Post by: jackelope on February 14, 2020, 02:12:01 PM
Parts guys: deal with techs, parts, and advisors
Advisors: deal with car owners.
I'm good, don't need to be on the mound! :tup:
Fyi, DNRY
Clearly you've never been a service advisor with that job description.
Post by: h20hunter on February 14, 2020, 02:19:10 PM
Post by: Woodchuck on February 14, 2020, 02:33:38 PM
Post by: timberghost72 on February 14, 2020, 02:50:57 PM
Post by: Buckmark on February 14, 2020, 03:23:38 PM
Nope! You guys got a tough job. I joke of course but really you need to be half tech, half advisor and 100% babysitter.Half tech
Half advisor
Half parts person
Half bartender, baby sitter (for the customer, tech and parts guys)
*
Post by: Dan-o on February 14, 2020, 04:54:22 PM
Post by: Fl0und3rz on February 14, 2020, 08:02:59 PM
Post by: Caseyd on February 14, 2020, 08:54:17 PM
Post by: Pete112288 on February 15, 2020, 12:04:50 AM
This morning I had just called and scheduled at a different mechanic for Wed morning. Based off of everything I told him at that point he said that he wanted to check it over for a possible partial blockage in the system, and try a different thermostat in case I had gotten a faulty or incorrect one when I replaced it.
And found that the previous mechanic had tested the coolant for hydrocarbons (if i am remembering correctly) doing a chemical test. However the new mechanic said that may not be conclusive since all the coolant was so recently replaced with fresh stuff so it may not show up enough in the system for the chemical test to work.
I only paid $300 for the vehicle, was a buddy that had new rigs and just wanted it gone and haddnt driven it very much in the last year. He is not mechanically inclined at all and barely knows enough to keep up on regular maintenance, so I doubt he had any idea of this issue when he sold it to me, if he had then he may have just given it to me free. I am about $300 more into it with all the maintenance and other work I have done thus far. My wife and I had a figure set that as long as we could get it to a decent point for around $2000 total into it then we would keep it. Since it is primarily meant to be a rig for me to drive to work in the winter when I need AWD and otherwise be at home if she needs it for kids or to run to the store while I am at work with the other car.
Thanks again everyone for weighing in on this for me!
Post by: Buckmark on February 15, 2020, 10:31:49 AM
You need another new mechanic :chuckle: as this other one telling you the coolant being newish may effect the block test is BS. Now a block test wont always show a positive. You can buy the tester and fluid from NAPA and do it yourself. Well the price on the rig was good so if you do the work yourself putting a few grand might be worth it to you?
Post by: jackelope on February 15, 2020, 10:53:07 AM
Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_33dsEb2V1FZE9
Post by: deerlick on February 15, 2020, 06:47:47 PM
Post by: Pete112288 on February 21, 2020, 12:35:30 AM
They said they ran the test again for hydrocarbons but didnt came up negative. After trying a few things, they couldnt get it to overheat at all to even a small extent for a while. He said when they finally "copy catted" the conditions where it overheated on me they got the temp to go up to about 3/4. Then they tested again, and only then did it come back positive for hydrocarbons. And they said they hooked up a hose to the reservoir and got about 5 lbs of pressure back. So they said its a headgasket, not completely shot, but that it has enough of a leak to do what it has been doing. They quoted me $1,900 + tax.
Because its a high mileage vehicle, I dont have much money into it at all, and I have a clean garage (finally), and a spare vehicle for the meantime, I am going to tackle it myself. $300 in parts and a 4 day weekend coming up.
This is kind of what I expected to find out, I didnt want it to be the case, but oh well, even after all this I will still be less than $1000 into the vehicle, including purchase price. So I am not gonna cry.
Thanks to everyone for their input!
Post by: Fl0und3rz on February 21, 2020, 05:34:54 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on February 21, 2020, 06:24:16 AM
So finally had it in and out of the shop for a day and a half. I let them know how serious I was and filled them in on some new developments, like for the first time, it overheated on me. Not bad, I saw it coming as the temp climbed like it haddn't before. So I got off the road before it hit high enough for the warning light to start going off.Take the time to get the heads surfaced. :twocents:
They said they ran the test again for hydrocarbons but didnt came up negative. After trying a few things, they couldnt get it to overheat at all to even a small extent for a while. He said when they finally "copy catted" the conditions where it overheated on me they got the temp to go up to about 3/4. Then they tested again, and only then did it come back positive for hydrocarbons. And they said they hooked up a hose to the reservoir and got about 5 lbs of pressure back. So they said its a headgasket, not completely shot, but that it has enough of a leak to do what it has been doing. They quoted me $1,900 + tax.
Because its a high mileage vehicle, I dont have much money into it at all, and I have a clean garage (finally), and a spare vehicle for the meantime, I am going to tackle it myself. $300 in parts and a 4 day weekend coming up.
This is kind of what I expected to find out, I didnt want it to be the case, but oh well, even after all this I will still be less than $1000 into the vehicle, including purchase price. So I am not gonna cry.
Thanks to everyone for their input!
Post by: jackelope on February 21, 2020, 07:27:25 AM
So finally had it in and out of the shop for a day and a half. I let them know how serious I was and filled them in on some new developments, like for the first time, it overheated on me. Not bad, I saw it coming as the temp climbed like it haddn't before. So I got off the road before it hit high enough for the warning light to start going off.Take the time to get the heads surfaced. :twocents:
They said they ran the test again for hydrocarbons but didnt came up negative. After trying a few things, they couldnt get it to overheat at all to even a small extent for a while. He said when they finally "copy catted" the conditions where it overheated on me they got the temp to go up to about 3/4. Then they tested again, and only then did it come back positive for hydrocarbons. And they said they hooked up a hose to the reservoir and got about 5 lbs of pressure back. So they said its a headgasket, not completely shot, but that it has enough of a leak to do what it has been doing. They quoted me $1,900 + tax.
Because its a high mileage vehicle, I dont have much money into it at all, and I have a clean garage (finally), and a spare vehicle for the meantime, I am going to tackle it myself. $300 in parts and a 4 day weekend coming up.
This is kind of what I expected to find out, I didnt want it to be the case, but oh well, even after all this I will still be less than $1000 into the vehicle, including purchase price. So I am not gonna cry.
Thanks to everyone for their input!
And pressure tested.
Post by: Pete112288 on March 06, 2020, 10:58:30 PM
Post by: jackelope on March 09, 2020, 06:09:52 PM
Or don't.
Post by: Pete112288 on March 15, 2020, 10:46:08 PM
So got everything put back together and fired it up today.
I took my time and had nearly a week off work to do so. Labeled everything and torqued everything to spec upon reassembly.
The only thing that I was not completely confident in was the injectors. The kit came with new basket filters and o-rings for them, so I replaced those. I had a heck of a time getting the old basket filters out though. One of them went into pieces but was pretty positive I got it all out fine.
It is idling horridly though. Very rough, almost sounds like a choo choo train chugging, RPMs bouncing between 600 and 1K. A lag when I give it gas before the RPMs go up. Is throwing a code for a misfire, the code was for "random" misfire, not cylinder specific. Plugs and wires are new. Double checked that the plugs are in correctly and seated well. Double, triple, and quadruple checked the wires and made sure the wires were in the correct order as well. Spritzed starting fluid around the intake wherever I could reach and nothing changed to indicate any vacuum leak. After running it for a while and starting it up a few different times, it wouldnt start. Would turn over but not start.
I am leaning towards the idea that I may have messed something up with the injectors. Thought about just replacing all of them, they arent too expensive or hard to get to, just have to pop off the upper part of the intake.
Anything I really should check that I havent already? Thoughts?
I also have a code for the MAP sensor. Could the two things be related or should I be looking for another issue there?
Thanks again everyone!
Post by: Crunchy on March 16, 2020, 10:24:28 AM