Post by: Born2late on April 11, 2020, 05:56:18 PM
This video was really interesting to see how dull factory chains are.
Think of it this way.If i sharpen my chain like this in theory i could be close to cutting two truck loads of wood in the time in took me to do one, roughly.
i'm going to try to learn and pay more attention to details when sharping my saw.
Thought some of you guys might be interested in this.
Post by: BLH69 on April 11, 2020, 06:02:40 PM
Post by: LongBomb on April 11, 2020, 06:11:36 PM
Post by: Stein on April 11, 2020, 06:18:14 PM
Post by: Buckhunter24 on April 11, 2020, 06:30:38 PM
Post by: Jpmiller on April 11, 2020, 06:31:42 PM
Post by: KFhunter on April 11, 2020, 06:33:29 PM
Don't reccomend a chisel grind for average guys who rock their saws occasionally.
I've been cutting burnt wood so currently using a round grind, stays sharper longer and charred wood is abrasive, dulls them quickly.
Fellers and guys cutting clean wood (pros) use a chisel grind, faster but less durable and dulls quicker.
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Post by: Rex_04 on April 11, 2020, 06:37:32 PM
Post by: KFhunter on April 11, 2020, 06:42:10 PM
I bought a timberline sharpener awhile back and have been really happy with how well it works. Little spendy but my chains have never been so sharp and cut so well.Yup, even guys who can eyeball the angles after many years still can't match a clamp on.
I like the granberg myself, 12v and itll make a great cutting chain really quickly.
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Post by: Buckhunter24 on April 11, 2020, 06:46:16 PM
I bought a timberline sharpener awhile back and have been really happy with how well it works. Little spendy but my chains have never been so sharp and cut so well.Yup, even guys who can eyeball the angles after many years still can't match a clamp on.
I like the granberg myself, 12v and itll make a great cutting chain really quickly.
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Yeah thats a fact, at that point its a pride thing like those guys trying to beat the computer in chess :chuckle:
Post by: KFhunter on April 11, 2020, 06:59:46 PM
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Post by: KFhunter on April 11, 2020, 07:02:51 PM
Can you set it up for a ripping chain? If you wanted to take a mill jig with you? Alaska sawmill or similar for making timbers and slabs.
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Post by: KFhunter on April 11, 2020, 07:13:31 PM
No pride here, I suck at freehand sharpening lolI bought a timberline sharpener awhile back and have been really happy with how well it works. Little spendy but my chains have never been so sharp and cut so well.Yup, even guys who can eyeball the angles after many years still can't match a clamp on.
I like the granberg myself, 12v and itll make a great cutting chain really quickly.
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Yeah thats a fact, at that point its a pride thing like those guys trying to beat the computer in chess :chuckle:
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Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on April 11, 2020, 07:16:25 PM
Post by: Born2late on April 11, 2020, 07:27:01 PM
What would be the advantage to useing that over a round file snap on jig?
These guys have another video on how to sharpen with a round file also if anybody is interested.
Post by: BNAElkhntr on April 11, 2020, 07:36:46 PM
tag following
Post by: KFhunter on April 11, 2020, 08:10:04 PM
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Post by: CastleRocker on April 11, 2020, 08:39:07 PM
Post by: RB on April 11, 2020, 10:10:24 PM
I still have my old Silvey grinder. The mistake a lot of weekend firewood cutters make is, they forget to take the riders/rakers down when they file a chain! If they are as high as the tooth, (or higher) your tooth can't cut. You put a straightedge across a couple teeth, and use feeler guage. On my old saw, I like to run them at .027" for hardwood, and .032" on softwood. Also, most folks don't geind the gullets out as often as they should.
:yeah:
My buddy that has been cutting timber for over 35 years has a Silvey and I have not sharpened a chain since I had him do it, flat out cuts wood when freshly ground! I could never file a chain as good as that grinder does.
Post by: Norman89 on April 11, 2020, 11:30:49 PM
Post by: Skillet on April 11, 2020, 11:33:28 PM
I'm definitely stealing the wedge idea to tension the chain on the bar for sharpening. I've been cranking the bar really right, but the chain still wants to roll a little.
Post by: NitRally on April 12, 2020, 12:23:37 AM
Post by: Axle on April 12, 2020, 07:59:11 AM
Post by: BigGoonTuna on April 12, 2020, 08:50:24 AM
not to mention square files cost a fortune and can’t be tuned like a grinder. Silveys use carbide dressers mounted on the grinder to set up the wheel to the operator’s preference.I still have my old Silvey grinder. The mistake a lot of weekend firewood cutters make is, they forget to take the riders/rakers down when they file a chain! If they are as high as the tooth, (or higher) your tooth can't cut. You put a straightedge across a couple teeth, and use feeler guage. On my old saw, I like to run them at .027" for hardwood, and .032" on softwood. Also, most folks don't geind the gullets out as often as they should.
:yeah:
My buddy that has been cutting timber for over 35 years has a Silvey and I have not sharpened a chain since I had him do it, flat out cuts wood when freshly ground! I could never file a chain as good as that grinder does.
For firewood cutting I only like round ground chain, I leave the squareground for the timber fallers. It does cut faster but once that corner hits any sort of grit it’s all over. The timber fallers I used to know always carried several chains to swap out in the field, don’t recall a single one who would sharpen their chains in the field. Landing guys are a different story, most of them used round ground .404 chain because it would hold up in those nasty conditions.
The best tool I used for touching up chains with a file is the Carlton “file-o-plate”, sadly I don’t think they make them any more. With that little credit card sized tool, it would guide your file into the correct location and angle, as well as act as a raker filing gauge that would not only get the raker to the right depth, but the perfect angle as well.
Post by: KFhunter on April 12, 2020, 09:16:52 AM
I've been watching this guys videos, He's is out of bellevue, pretty good videos.
This video was really interesting to see how dull factory chains are.
Think of it this way.If i sharpen my chain like this in theory i could be close to cutting two truck loads of wood in the time in took me to do one, roughly.
i'm going to try to learn and pay more attention to details when sharping my saw.
Thought some of you guys might be interested in this.
So I watched this video, these guys are doing a big disservice to firewood cutters.
They're convincing people to go with a square grind on their chains and all that's going to happen is a big huge grin when the saw is running through wood, quickly followed by a big sad when it isn't cutting anymore. The first patch of dirt you drag through the wood and its done.
If the chain is being sharpened, it isn't cutting.
Put round grinds on it, cut a bit slower, but cut a lot longer between sharpening = more wood to split at the end of the day and your chains will last a lot longer.
square grinds will cost you more money, you'll be tossing chains in the trash faster, and you'll spend a lot more time sharpening.
Post by: Magnum_Willys on April 12, 2020, 09:21:49 AM
Post by: Born2late on April 12, 2020, 09:31:25 AM
Thanks for the advice of guys. As a firewood cutter i don't do it enough to know the drawbacks.
Post by: Born2late on April 12, 2020, 09:32:26 AM
I saw some on ebay for sale when i was just looking at thesenot to mention square files cost a fortune and can’t be tuned like a grinder. Silveys use carbide dressers mounted on the grinder to set up the wheel to the operator’s preference.I still have my old Silvey grinder. The mistake a lot of weekend firewood cutters make is, they forget to take the riders/rakers down when they file a chain! If they are as high as the tooth, (or higher) your tooth can't cut. You put a straightedge across a couple teeth, and use feeler guage. On my old saw, I like to run them at .027" for hardwood, and .032" on softwood. Also, most folks don't geind the gullets out as often as they should.
:yeah:
My buddy that has been cutting timber for over 35 years has a Silvey and I have not sharpened a chain since I had him do it, flat out cuts wood when freshly ground! I could never file a chain as good as that grinder does.
For firewood cutting I only like round ground chain, I leave the squareground for the timber fallers. It does cut faster but once that corner hits any sort of grit it’s all over. The timber fallers I used to know always carried several chains to swap out in the field, don’t recall a single one who would sharpen their chains in the field. Landing guys are a different story, most of them used round ground .404 chain because it would hold up in those nasty conditions.
The best tool I used for touching up chains with a file is the Carlton “file-o-plate”, sadly I don’t think they make them any more. With that little credit card sized tool, it would guide your file into the correct location and angle, as well as act as a raker filing gauge that would not only get the raker to the right depth, but the perfect angle as well.
Post by: HntnFsh on April 12, 2020, 12:14:43 PM
Post by: hunter399 on April 12, 2020, 12:28:07 PM
With a round file.No guide none of that garbage.I cut a few cords sharpen.Sometimes I will sharpen or touch up if I want to cut a cord in just an hour or two .Just to speed up the process.
Post by: timberfaller on April 12, 2020, 01:02:14 PM
Post by: 2MANY on April 12, 2020, 03:17:48 PM
Post by: j_h_nimrod on April 12, 2020, 09:47:58 PM
Post by: Alchase on April 12, 2020, 10:19:34 PM
Is there a easy way for a couple time a year user, to do this :dunno:
To be honest I just buy a new chain every couple of years. Mostly because of lack of knowledge. :o
Post by: HntnFsh on April 13, 2020, 06:00:26 AM
Most saw shops will sharpen a chain for you for a few bucks. You can sharpen a chain until the cutting tooth is almost down to nothing.
Post by: Bullkllr on April 13, 2020, 07:52:48 AM
Not perfect, but it is the fastest way I can put a decent edge on the teeth and get back to cutting. Files rakers at the same time.
Post by: b23 on April 13, 2020, 08:27:57 AM
Post by: timberfaller on April 13, 2020, 09:14:07 AM
https://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint-low-profile/?v=7516fd43adaa
Wore one out and unfortunately smashed my last one, then I bought a grinder! :chuckle: :chuckle:
Post by: Encore 280 on April 13, 2020, 09:39:19 AM
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on April 13, 2020, 02:06:36 PM
Post by: HntnFsh on April 13, 2020, 06:51:34 PM
Heres one of my skip chains filed back pretty far. Been my favorite chain for along time.
Got your moneys worth out of that 1. Thats how far I run mine down.
Post by: Magnum_Willys on April 13, 2020, 06:54:34 PM
Post by: Tracker0721 on April 13, 2020, 07:17:22 PM
Post by: HntnFsh on April 13, 2020, 08:28:05 PM
Used to get min commercially sharpened and after 2 sharpenings they looked like that. Really ? Did they have to grind an 1/8” off to sharpen?
Some places dont care they set the depth of the grind and let her rip. Seen a few chains they did that too. We called those chains burnt. Would have that blue hue too them from getting them so hot. I always thought it took some temper out of the tooth and they wouldn't stay sharp as long. If I rocked a chain bad I usually grind it a couple times only taking a small amount at a time so they dont get too hot.
Post by: HUNTINCOUPLE on April 13, 2020, 09:32:18 PM
Used to get min commercially sharpened and after 2 sharpenings they looked like that. Really ? Did they have to grind an 1/8” off to sharpen?
Well they really don't make money sharpening chains.......................
Post by: blackpowderhunter on April 13, 2020, 09:41:04 PM
I tried one of these: Stihl 2 in 1 Easy Sharpener (or something like that).i bought the knock off version of this for like 20 bucks.
Not perfect, but it is the fastest way I can put a decent edge on the teeth and get back to cutting. Files rakers at the same time.
for how much i use my chainsaw and for what i use it for, its more than enough (basic work around the property or clearing the neighborhood road after a storm and i bring it to elk camp or the woods every now and again)
Post by: WRENCHMAN on April 13, 2020, 10:44:20 PM
Post by: Onewhohikes on April 14, 2020, 05:02:48 AM
Post by: CastleRocker on April 14, 2020, 07:49:00 AM
If you can't afford a grinder or can't do a good job by free handing HERE is the the best IMHO sharpener out there. Its better then the Oregon model.
https://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint-low-profile/?v=7516fd43adaa
Wore one out and unfortunately smashed my last one, then I bought a grinder! :chuckle: :chuckle:
Thanks for that link! We had that exact rig to sharpen the Alaskan Sawmill chains in the late '70's and early '80's. Didn't know what it was called, and sure didn't know they still make them. My son has the mill now, just needs to buy another powerhead, as he only has one. He'll need to be able to sharpen the chain.
Post by: Tenkara on April 15, 2020, 06:18:30 PM
Post by: KFhunter on April 19, 2020, 10:24:43 AM
If you can't afford a grinder or can't do a good job by free handing HERE is the the best IMHO sharpener out there. Its better then the Oregon model.
https://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint-low-profile/?v=7516fd43adaa
Wore one out and unfortunately smashed my last one, then I bought a grinder! :chuckle: :chuckle:
Thanks for that link! We had that exact rig to sharpen the Alaskan Sawmill chains in the late '70's and early '80's. Didn't know what it was called, and sure didn't know they still make them. My son has the mill now, just needs to buy another powerhead, as he only has one. He'll need to be able to sharpen the chain.
That answers my question if you could do a ripping chain with it :tup: