Post by: bassquatch on August 29, 2020, 05:14:11 PM
My question is, why? Is a wire crossed somewhere? Is this an easy fix? Very odd. The battery was hooked up correctly. The camper is in nearly new condition but it just takes one knuckleheaded attempt at wiring something to cause major issues and i don't know what the previous owner may have monkeyed with.
Difficult to find specific information online, so I thought I would try here.
Thank you in advance!
Post by: Mudman on August 29, 2020, 05:24:04 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on August 29, 2020, 06:29:31 PM
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Post by: bassquatch on August 29, 2020, 07:04:15 PM
The green switch is the on/off switch for 120v/shore power.
The skinny red switch is the 12v DC (battery power) on/off switch.
We shut the propane off after a couple days use. I switched the skinny 12v to 'on' for our last night and the lights went out. Switched it back to the indicated 'off' position and they came back on...doesn't seem right. Curious if a wire is crossed somewhere?
Post by: bowNarrow on August 29, 2020, 07:17:38 PM
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on August 29, 2020, 07:29:25 PM
Post by: bassquatch on August 29, 2020, 09:42:37 PM
The issue is:
The 12v is on when in the 'off' position and visa versa.
So in the photo, it should be off according to the labeling...but the lights would go on. Lights went off when I switched it to the labeled on position. Like it's getting reversed polarity or something? Looks like service department time...
Post by: Hilltop123 on August 30, 2020, 04:50:54 AM
Don't run your fridge on 12v, it is the least efficient of your three options. Stick to propane, unless 110 is available. Was your battery dead by morning, if not it was close. If you insist on using 12 VDC for your refrigerator, make sure your isolated from your truck battery, you don't want to wake up and find both batteries are dead. :twocents:
Post by: bassquatch on August 30, 2020, 05:42:02 AM
Post by: MADMAX on August 30, 2020, 06:03:03 AM
Post by: bassquatch on August 30, 2020, 06:47:13 AM
Decided just to get it to a shop, have it gone through and checked over. When my wife uses this thing without me I want to know all will be as it should. I have a feeling the previous owner wired in something they wanted and then pulled it before the sale and in the process hooked stuff up wrong. Better safe than sorry.
Appreciate the insights :tup:
Post by: Stein on August 30, 2020, 11:02:06 AM
Depending on the switch, there are either two or three male spade terminals coming out of the bottom. There will always be one in the middle and then either one or two on the ends which will work opposite of each other (one will be on while the other is off).
AC rockers work the same way, many are dual rated for ac and dc. AC switches may have more plastic on the bottom between spade connectors for voltage creepage and clearance protection, but the rest is the same.
The only thing different with AC is that you want to make sure it isn't miswired to switch the neutral as the consequences could be higher than in DC if you miswire and switch the negative.
Post by: bowNarrow on August 30, 2020, 11:40:24 AM
Only ran lights. No fridge.Those switches are for your fridge only . You have a inverter somewhere that controls the lights. I doubt it's wired wrong. Fridges draw alot of power when ran on 12v . Which would make your lights go off of the battery got low enough
Post by: bassquatch on August 30, 2020, 02:30:03 PM
Only ran lights. No fridge.Those switches are for your fridge only . You have a inverter somewhere that controls the lights. I doubt it's wired wrong. Fridges draw alot of power when ran on 12v . Which would make your lights go off of the battery got low enough
Now that makes sense! Upon further investigation today, I believe this is exactly what happened. Thank you!