Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: Taco280AI on September 30, 2020, 10:38:55 AM
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145LRX
3067 vs 3097 fps
Both sub half inch @ 100 and will shoot at 300 next for groups.
Now this is what I'll use for Idaho deer and elk. Temps could range from 20 degrees in the morning up to 70 degrees mid day. Which would you choose to take with the info given? Temp sensitivity might be an issue, might not. I've read RL is more temp sensitive, but have seen a test that showed it barely changed at all from 8 degrees to 80. Different cartridge and bullet however.
What say you?
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x479q90/922/wXkjoi.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmwXkjoij)
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I would use the H4831 just because it's way more stable in the temp range as you mentioned.
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30fps isn't enough speed to spit at and H4831 is bomb proof. Ive burned 50lb or more of the stuff so it gets my vote every time
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RL23 and 16 is the only “stable” RL powders. I use 23 and really like it. But it’s almost same exact burn rate as 4831SC. Both are a great option. Tweak your seating depth to bring it together a little more.
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RL23 and 16 is the only “stable” RL powders. I use 23 and really like it. But it’s almost same exact burn rate as 4831SC. Both are a great option. Tweak your seating depth to bring it together a little more.
I’ve not had issues in the extreme cold of Montana with 4831SC. :twocents:
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Another vote for the 4831 . I have never noticed a difference from here to Montana
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4831
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Conventional wisdom would suggest H4831 as being the overwhelming choice. BUT, in Alliant's defense RL16, RL23 and even to a large degree RL26 are nothing like their older powders with regard to temperature stability. I think either would be a good choice but if you have any concern go with H4831.
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Are these velocitys from chronogragh or reloading manuel?
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MagnetoSpeed Sporter. I had great accuracy with IMR4350, but it's sloooooooow compared to the book. Different lots, different chronos.
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Well RL23 it is. Tried to shoot a "group" @ 200 with H4831, but didn't work out so went straight to RL23.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/nAVUhV.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ponAVUhVj)
With a seating depth of 3.31" and 3.33" (3.30 wasn't as good), I grouped about 1.16" and 1.18" from a bipod with a rear bag. The two shots touching were .22" and .25". For reference those are 2" dots. Ground was hard pack dirt and very uneven, with a fine layer of practically dust. Did have some flyers with other groups, but think it was a combo of me and the ground, with a lack of consistent bipod footing. On the right target the first shot was in the orange. Don't know if I need to work on seating depth more, or find a better shooting surface, or just get better behind the trigger - or all three. Or bedding.
Of the three I chrono'd they ran 3097, 3092, 3092.
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I froze some RL23 last weekend and tested it against 70 degrees. There was zero FPS change. Did this test a few weeks ago with RL26 and there was 30 FPS in 40 degrees.
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2 shots together and flier everytime I would want to shoot 5 shot groups to see whats happening. Suspect rifle can do better if you can find culprit - stock clearance not enough, seating depth, bedding, screws tight. ?
Same group equally spaced I would be happy but You might be just one change from a real tack driver. Kind of stuff that makes us wear out barrels looking for the answer. Hehe.
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I froze some RL23 last weekend and tested it against 70 degrees. There was zero FPS change.
That's good to know :tup:
Picked up three more pounds, same lot, in Naches a few days ago.
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Took the stock off and tightened it back down. Fired one shot through the chrono to start, 3096fps. After four rounds on three different days it's 3097, 3092, 3092, 3096.
Little breezy out and didn't feel great about the shots so didn't want to look at the target until I was right in front of it (as opposed to being disappointed while walking up to it still). Got there and was like, that's not too bad... was expecting worse. Top to bottom is a little over 1.4" @ 200 yards and if you get rid of that bottom shot everything else is sub 1". Time to fine tune, set zero, shoot a few groups farther out, and have it ready to hunt.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/bSvJsk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pobSvJskj)
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So what's up with my scope? Zeiss V4. **or what am I doing to mess this up**
I first shot at 200 yards, 1" left and about .4" high. Grouped .95"
Moved to 250 yards, went 2 - 1/4 MOA clicks right and it ended up 2.5" right. Acting like they're 1/2 MOA adjustments.
I also went 1 MOA up, which should get me a little high on target, but I did fail to factor in that it was already a little high. Still, it ended up 2.25" above the target when drop should be 2.3" (confirmed on another target when set back to zero). So that 2.25" and 2.3" of drop is 4.55" when I only moved it 1 MOA. It should only have moved 2.5", not 4.5"... almost acting like each click is .5 MOA.
The target not shown, also at 250, I went back 2 clicks left and 4 down, same setting as the 200 yard target, roughly 1.25" left and 1.75" low (when factoring in the .4 high at 200 it comes out to about where it should be for drop).
Back at it tomorrow...
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/923/XFIOxw.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnXFIOxwj)
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Tall target tracking test
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Quick check: If you can secure your rifle on bags, bench, etc look at cross hairs while pointing at spot on target. Now turn turrets to line crosshairs up on a spot 10” higher - how many clicks?
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I don't think scope crosshairs always move in exact increments. I read one article about lightly tapping on the turrets after moving or going the distance you want then going back to the old position and then back out again. Also, once you start going out in range a lot more can happen to the bullet as far as wind is concerned. I have been out of school a long time so I forget how adjustments to sights change exponentially over distance.
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Its approximately 1” at 100 for 4 clicks (1/4” per click) or 2” at 200, or 5” at 500 for those 4 clicks.
So 2 clicks at 250 should be 1/2” x 2.5 = 1.25”
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I would try to zero at one range before adjusting zero between distances.
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Its approximately 1” at 100 for 4 clicks (1/4” per click) or 2” at 200, or 5” at 500 for those 4 clicks.
So 2 clicks at 250 should be 1/2” x 2.5 = 1.25”
:yeah:
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=12Wf0Cuwwi8
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That scope also should have subtensions in the reticle. Use those instead of trying to figure the inches. If the scope reticle shows it needs to move 1/2 moa move it 1/2 moa. :twocents:
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I think I just suck. Not sure what's with the horizontal adjustment, but split the difference and now it's centered. Shot today and vertical was pretty much on. Fundamentals... I need to work on them :chuckle:
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User error before. Shot at 400 this morning, slightly off on elevation from expected, but I've seen that a few times now so I'm wondering about actual BC vs advertised.
First fouling shot, low. Second with 17 clicks, 3rd and 4th with 18. 5th shot I held on the left side of the target for wind. Had I held the same aim as before it would be where the red dot is. I'll play with numbers to get the trajectory to match up with actual results.
If I move shot #2 up one inch for 18 clicks instead of 17, and (correctly this time) moved the red dot where it should be - a little farther right, then that would be right at 2.0 inches, 4 shots @ 400 yards. Half MOA hunting load with a Barnes LRX :tup:
Leaving it dirty and hunting Idaho deer tomorrow :)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1024x768q90/924/drtObn.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/podrtObnj)
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:tup: that looks like itll work!
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Good shooting. Here is my 400 yard target from yesterday, same bullet in 7mm rem mag. Hoping it will find meat on Thursday next week in Idaho.
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.25 MOA is the best you can do? Good luck hitting anything :chuckle:
What rifle? That in a field scenario or off a bench at the range? Damn good group :tup:
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.25 MOA is the best you can do? Good luck hitting anything :chuckle:
What rifle? That in a field scenario or off a bench at the range? Damn good group :tup:
This was off a bipod with my bino harness as my rear rest, laying in a gravel road. Honestly, the 300 yard group was maybe slightly worse than this, so I have to assume that there was at least a little luck involved in that group, probably more than a little. :dunno:
Rifle is my 20 year old Ruger M77 MKII, but it has always been a tack driver.
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Its 8” from point of aim but go high shoulder you have plenty of room to work with. :-)
That darn wind.
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:chuckle: I wasn't concerned with wind on that, just elevation zero and drop. Next time though...
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With wind correction
Since I cleaned it after deer I had to go shoot it prior to elk. First through the chrono, second at the little pumpkin at 265. Elevation was perfect, held a little too far left for wind. All I knew is it was gone from where it was, so a hit.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/sKkwvM.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/posKkwvMj)
Backed up to 533 at another pumpkin, hand for size reference
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/Ab7mxt.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poAb7mxtj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/922/Stw92W.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmStw92Wj)
I'd say it's ready :tup:
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Nice shot
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Great shooting. Well done.