Post by: KFhunter on August 13, 2021, 07:27:55 PM
2016 Colorado 4x4 trail boss z71
Guages are wonking out, fanning back and forth like you'reflicking tbe key on and off fast.
I'm getting messages in my dash like
"steering assist not working use caution"
"Service 4x4"
And other messages
Oil pressure is going from - - counting up to 80 then back to - -
I had an issue very simmilar when the truck was brand new, turned out to be a loose wire in the fuse box. This time though I heard the stick crash and make a ton of racket underneath, then immediately seen the dash go wonky and I stopped immediately.
No leaks, no smoke, nothing could be found.
Started fine, runs kinda bad. Shifting is off and harsh.
ABS light continuously on and brake light on the dash continuously on. Brakes work fine, no bleedoff, no leaks.
I got home and spent hours on the creeper, pulled all the skid plates off, traced down every plug, every wire, looked for pieces of sticks to see where it mighta hit, nothing.
Took pelinium off, took fuse box apart, found out why my 3rd brake light doesn't work on the trail boss bar, pin is out of the fuse box. Another small purple wire is out too, but taped, assume thats tbe 3rd brake light adove rear window. gonna find what it goes too for sure.
But for the life of me can't find what's wrong with the dash lights and guages, why it runs bad, shifts bad
Post by: jrebel on August 13, 2021, 07:40:24 PM
1. Ground wire is not making a solid connection and or was damaged with the stick.
2. Completely coincidental that the stick made a noise and you have a bad alternator.
Not familiar with that exact truck....but find it very hard to believe a stick hitting the undercarriage would cause major electrical problems. Could the noise you heard have been arcing or something mechanical going on....like a timing belt or chain? Just thoughts....
Definitely gonna follow to see how it turns out. Good Luck.
Post by: Platensek-po on August 13, 2021, 07:41:39 PM
Two thoughts.....
1. Ground wire is not making a solid connection and or was damaged with the stick.
2. Completely coincidental that the stick made a noise and you have a bad alternator.
Not familiar with that exact truck....but find it very hard to believe a stick hitting the undercarriage would cause major electrical problems. Could the noise you heard have been arcing or something mechanical going on....like a timing belt or chain? Just thoughts....
Definitely gonna follow to see how it turns out. Good Luck.
I was gunna say to check the alternator as well but then couldnt think how the stick could have done that. Definitely very weird.
Post by: KFhunter on August 13, 2021, 07:42:48 PM
Post by: KFhunter on August 13, 2021, 07:44:56 PM
First thing I checked was the serpentine belt because it could have made a sound like that too, but it was fine, no frays or anything
Post by: JBar on August 13, 2021, 07:47:34 PM
Post by: fishngamereaper on August 13, 2021, 07:51:10 PM
TCM would cause your abs to freak out and could make a similar sound...
Just an thought..
Otherwise you probably knocked a body ground wire loose.
Post by: Alchase on August 13, 2021, 08:01:15 PM
30 seconds later I had no throttle, and the truck coasts to a stop and dies!
I pushed it into parking lot, crawled underneath, and there was a piece of metal driven right into my Catalytic Converter completely blocking it. I tried to pull it out without thinking, and burned the crap out of my hand. I waited about 20 minutes and pulled it out with my othe hand, LOL
Drove home with the most annoying exhaust sound ever, but it drove.
Sorry probably won’t help you though!
Post by: KFhunter on August 13, 2021, 08:22:42 PM
Sounds like a TCM or maybe the BCM.
TCM would cause your abs to freak out and could make a similar sound...
Just an thought..
Otherwise you probably knocked a body ground wire loose.
A TCM can nuke itself and make a racket doing it?
Post by: fishngamereaper on August 13, 2021, 08:29:21 PM
Sounds like a TCM or maybe the BCM.
TCM would cause your abs to freak out and could make a similar sound...
Just an thought..
Otherwise you probably knocked a body ground wire loose.
A TCM can nuke itself and make a racket doing it?
Ya since it controls amongst other things the anti lock system and possibly any limited slip options the truck has...the system goes haywire your abs could freak out ..
They can also throw a bunch of codes that would explain the other symptoms...I've seen it on GM trucks before..
Just a possibility...again it also smells of a primary ground wire...there are probably 3-4 at least on that truck.
Post by: highcountry_hunter on August 13, 2021, 08:33:02 PM
Post by: fishngamereaper on August 13, 2021, 08:36:13 PM
Post by: jackelope on August 13, 2021, 08:44:07 PM
ABS, traction control, etc would all be handled through the ABS controller.
This truck probably has electric power steering and if so will most likely have some sort of electric power steering control module.
All the modules, regardless of what their acronyms are, communicate on a network. You’re pissing in the wind without being able to read fault codes if you can’t see anything obvious.
Post by: pd on August 13, 2021, 08:49:20 PM
I never had an electrical problem because of the stick. I feel your pain. Keep at it. Sending you good luck smoke signals now.
Post by: cooltimber on August 13, 2021, 09:25:36 PM
Post by: jackelope on August 13, 2021, 09:47:07 PM
disconnect your battery ,wait 1 minute, then hook up battery. worth a try.
100% agree
Post by: KFhunter on August 13, 2021, 11:47:47 PM
Post by: AROTTY on August 14, 2021, 12:13:41 AM
Post by: Smokeploe on August 14, 2021, 10:04:26 AM
Good luck
Smokeploe
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 12:48:10 PM
The code reader isn't functioning like it should, I've use it several times from not having gas cap on good to replacing a smog sensors.
I checked all the wires front to back, grounds seem tight and no corrosion I can see just a bit of dried mud that like to get in my eyeballs.
I yanked the computer off the firewall, the aluminum one, no burn marks or smells seems normal.
I don't know where other computer is yet
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 01:16:08 PM
Post by: slowhand on August 14, 2021, 01:28:34 PM
I am a dealership Tech and Your in over your head. I wish You luck, but I recommend to leave it to the pros before you cause it to get more costly. :twocents:
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 01:32:04 PM
can't I drive it?
Post by: slowhand on August 14, 2021, 01:33:34 PM
it drives okI though above you mentioned trans shifting issues? that doesn't sound like a drive it there to me? maybe you are super close to your dealership?
can't I drive it?
Post by: pianoman9701 on August 14, 2021, 01:35:04 PM
Post by: jrebel on August 14, 2021, 01:38:29 PM
Post by: SuperX on August 14, 2021, 01:40:32 PM
This document may help if you have the diesel.
https://gm-techlink.com/?p=13907
(https://gm-techlink.com/?p=13907)
Post by: buckfvr on August 14, 2021, 02:28:52 PM
Call Dealership, have vehicle towed there, They will diagnose the problem and call you with an est, decided to have them fix it or fix it yourself, vehicle gets fixed, You are happy.
I am a dealership Tech and Your in over your head. I wish You luck, but I recommend to leave it to the pros before you cause it to get more costly. :twocents:
Not a lot of love floating around for the local dealership....... or confidence for that matter. :twocents:
Post by: jackelope on August 14, 2021, 02:31:54 PM
Yup, I'm at a loss. Hooked up code reader I keep getting "this feature is not supported!" Won't pull codes, or says no codes.
The code reader isn't functioning like it should, I've use it several times from not having gas cap on good to replacing a smog sensors.
I checked all the wires front to back, grounds seem tight and no corrosion I can see just a bit of dried mud that like to get in my eyeballs.
I yanked the computer off the firewall, the aluminum one, no burn marks or smells seems normal.
I don't know where other computer is yet
It won’t work for you because you need to be able to pull communication (U) codes and not powertrain(P) codes. The stuff you mentioned would all be P codes. Most general purpose(cheap) scan tools won’t pull U codes. Power steering, Abs, etc codes won’t be powertrain codes. You’ll need next level scan tool.
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 02:48:07 PM
It was a freaking stick, the wound was up under the wheel well.
Might be a bugger to fix, gonna hafta cut/splice with shrink-wrap butt connectors
One wire is completely cut.
Post by: jackelope on August 14, 2021, 02:57:09 PM
Post by: SuperX on August 14, 2021, 02:58:35 PM
I FOUND IT!!!Drivers side? That's where my issue showed up.
It was a freaking stick, the wound was up under the wheel well.
Might be a bugger to fix, gonna hafta cut/splice with shrink-wrap butt connectors
One wire is completely cut.
Post by: jackelope on August 14, 2021, 02:59:03 PM
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 03:01:25 PM
Call Dealership, have vehicle towed there, They will diagnose the problem and call you with an est, decided to have them fix it or fix it yourself, vehicle gets fixed, You are happy.
I am a dealership Tech and Your in over your head. I wish You luck, but I recommend to leave it to the pros before you cause it to get more costly. :twocents:
Not a lot of love floating around for the local dealership....... or confidence for that matter. :twocents:
Oh hell no! The cory fitzgerald guy can suck it
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 03:05:04 PM
My but connectors are heat shrink tube :tup: if I did like that I'd have to add in 6 inches of new wire lol
Post by: jackelope on August 14, 2021, 03:21:39 PM
My but connectors are heat shrink tube :tup: if I did like that I'd have to add in 6 inches of new wire lol
Adding in wire is pretty standard.
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 03:23:26 PM
Post by: slowhand on August 14, 2021, 04:23:54 PM
I sadly understand the reasons for those feelings. Stealerships are a real thing. Trust me when I say there are still fair factory dealerships out there with techs that make enough money they have no reason to take advantage of any customer. If You have a Chev or GMC the one I have personally worked with and would attest to their honor would be Art Gamblin in Enumclaw.Call Dealership, have vehicle towed there, They will diagnose the problem and call you with an est, decided to have them fix it or fix it yourself, vehicle gets fixed, You are happy.
I am a dealership Tech and Your in over your head. I wish You luck, but I recommend to leave it to the pros before you cause it to get more costly. :twocents:
Not a lot of love floating around for the local dealership....... or confidence for that matter. :twocents:
Also good for You KFhunter persitance pays off. Well done
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 04:35:35 PM
Stuck them together, erased codes, and all is normal.
Bugger to get too, tucked on top of a body mount bracket.
I shudder to think what a stealership could have done to me
Post by: slowhand on August 14, 2021, 04:48:44 PM
Confirmed fixed, it was two white wires not much thicker than dental floss.
Stuck them together, erased codes, and all is normal.
Bugger to get too, tucked on top of a body mount bracket.
I shudder to think what a stealership could have done to me
Likely a couple hrs of diag time and then the est I mentioned earlier. So likely a $400 bill to diagnose the issue give or take? our Hourly rate is close to $200 for electrical diag.
Hard to say what the est for repairs would have been but I would guess around the same amount for the repairs. no parts but a couple more hours for the repairs, reassembly, and to verify the repair fixed all your concerns.
I don't think that's out of line? around $800 before tax give or take, maybe $600 if it only took an Hour to locate the cause.
Post by: Stein on August 14, 2021, 05:07:13 PM
Glad to hear you got it fixed though. :tup:
Post by: storyteller on August 14, 2021, 05:15:05 PM
Post by: jrebel on August 14, 2021, 05:20:53 PM
Post by: jackelope on August 14, 2021, 06:19:17 PM
Post by: KFhunter on August 14, 2021, 08:06:06 PM
How much would it cost to replace my butt connectors? :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:
(I'll fix it right when I get more time and the right parts, and while I'm in there do a lift, add those lights and some other stuff)
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 14, 2021, 08:35:48 PM
Don’t use butt connectors. That’s amateur hour stuff.
If Sta-Kons are amateurish, what are wire nuts and Scotchlocs?
Post by: jackelope on August 14, 2021, 09:31:32 PM
Don’t use butt connectors. That’s amateur hour stuff.
If Sta-Kons are amateurish, what are wire nuts and Scotchlocs?
Wire nuts are for residential wiring in your house. Skotch locks should go the way of the wooly mammoth.
Post by: Knocker of rocks on August 14, 2021, 09:32:47 PM
Don’t use butt connectors. That’s amateur hour stuff.
If Sta-Kons are amateurish, what are wire nuts and Scotchlocs?
Wire nuts are for residential wiring in your house. Skotch locks should go the way of the wooly mammoth.
What a party pooper
Post by: Stein on August 14, 2021, 09:41:05 PM
Don’t use butt connectors. That’s amateur hour stuff.
If Sta-Kons are amateurish, what are wire nuts and Scotchlocs?
Wire nuts are for residential wiring in your house. Skotch locks should go the way of the wooly mammoth.
How would U-Haul install trailer lights or brake controllers then?
Post by: jackelope on August 14, 2021, 10:14:50 PM
Don’t use butt connectors. That’s amateur hour stuff.
If Sta-Kons are amateurish, what are wire nuts and Scotchlocs?
Wire nuts are for residential wiring in your house. Skotch locks should go the way of the wooly mammoth.
How would U-Haul install trailer lights or brake controllers then?
Our lives would be easier if they just wouldn’t.
Post by: jackelope on August 15, 2021, 09:51:05 AM
Post by: Ridgeratt on August 15, 2021, 09:58:11 AM
Post by: SuperX on August 15, 2021, 10:07:34 AM
Post by: Stein on August 15, 2021, 10:12:40 AM
I used split shots in my boat to connect the hair thickness Chart Plotter wires to the equally thin VHF radio wires and it worked great! How should you properly connect hair-thin wires like that?
I used these when I installed a stereo, it had tiny wires and these ended up working very well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L8K9KMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Post by: SuperX on August 15, 2021, 10:22:42 AM
Thanks! I'll try those if the split shots ever fail!I used split shots in my boat to connect the hair thickness Chart Plotter wires to the equally thin VHF radio wires and it worked great! How should you properly connect hair-thin wires like that?
I used these when I installed a stereo, it had tiny wires and these ended up working very well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L8K9KMM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Post by: KFhunter on August 15, 2021, 11:02:29 AM
All the loggers and truck drivers use heat shrink butt connectors because road salt spray erodes anything else very quickly.
Trick is to not crimp a hole in the heat tube sleeve.
Post by: Stein on August 15, 2021, 11:18:57 AM
The small ones I linked above are super easy to use, just heat them and they shrink and the low temp solder melts and secures the wires together.
Post by: jackelope on August 15, 2021, 11:28:54 AM
Post by: BULLBLASTER on August 15, 2021, 06:58:05 PM
I dunno. My guys don’t use any crimps at all ever, and curse them whenever we run into them. I can tell you they’ve been attributed to problems in the past with corrosion, loose crimps, etc.
:yeah: Solder and shrink tube.
Post by: Westside88 on August 15, 2021, 07:50:32 PM
I dunno. My guys don’t use any crimps at all ever, and curse them whenever we run into them. I can tell you they’ve been attributed to problems in the past with corrosion, loose crimps, etc.
:yeah: Solder and shrink tube.
I agree with this 100% for a solid connection that will last. I also like to stagger two layers of shrink tube, with the second being slightly longer. It’s worth it to seek out the high quality stuff as well
Post by: KFhunter on August 15, 2021, 07:56:32 PM
While I'm doing that I plan to slip a radiator hose or something over the harness that runs down along the framerail there, and plus I'll have more room to get at it for a proper fix, its right where it goes over the body mount bracket on the frame.
Post by: Caseknife on August 15, 2021, 09:07:52 PM
BTW, Ryan is the only tech to have work on your vehicle at Country Chevy. Worked with him for many years and he is the only GM certified tech they have, sad deal for sure.
Post by: steeleywhopper on August 15, 2021, 10:12:11 PM