Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: raydog on November 29, 2022, 04:59:59 PM
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I recently purchased my first suppressor and I'm wanting to thread a Tikka 7mm rem mag superlite for the suppressor I purchased. I don't actually have the gun in hand, but from what I gathered, the barrel diameter is .625" at the muzzle. I can get a direct thread 1/2"x28 mount for my can. I'm just wondering how you guys would go about this. I can run 1/2"x 28 thread directly into the can, but I've read some folks run a 1/2" to 5/8" adapter then thread suppressor onto the adapter.... Just looking for some options as this is all new to me.
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I have a Tikka T3 lite in 300wsm that I had threaded and run my Omega 300 directly threaded on it 1/2x28. No problems.
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Rearden Mfg. DPB muzzle break, attach to barrel after threading to 1/2x28, time it up and use rocktite. Get an Atlas adapter or a plan B to put on the can, much easier to thread on/off and then when the can isn’t being used you still have a brake installed.
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Depending on your use may consider shortening and threading simultaneously. A 24.3" barrel with a can is pretty unwieldy. I have a couple of .300 WSMs and a .243 at 21" and think it's a good compromise for supressed use.
Direct thread is noticeably lighter.
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I need to thread my T3 light for a silencer yet, and yes, I've used adapters from 1/2 to 5/8 for silencers. Works fine!
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It depends on barrel diameter. If your barrel is thick enough, you can run 5/8 x 24. If it’s too thin then you are likely to run 1/2 x 28.
I purchased two Q Trash Panda’s which came with 1/2 x 28 and 5/8 x 24 “cherry Bombs” which are the adaptor between the barrel and suppressor.
Makes it easy, because you can adapt either suppress to whatever threaded end you have.
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I threaded my .243 to 1/2x28 because the barrel was too small for 5/8x24. It works fine. I think 1/2x28 would be ok on 7mm also. I've also used 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapters. about $15 on ebay. That works fine too.
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Seems like most suppressors for this application will be 5/8-24. Major thread diameter will be 0.6167 - 0.6239, so might be possible to do it without using an adapter. Probably better to take an 1/2-inch off barrel and then threading. I hate using adapters, just on more alignment/tolerance issue to worry about. Direct thread always seems to be better than installing over a muzzle device from my experience so far.
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The largest thread possible. It will be the most rigid and less components to fail, strip, come loose, be out of alignment, warp, bend, affect TIR, etc……
7mm bore is .280. Minor diameter 1/2-28 about .455. The wall thickness after threading approximately .087.
Minor diameter 5/8-24 about .560. Wall thickness after threading approximately .140
The clearance at the end of a thread for run out is the weakest part and that’s the minor diameter of the thread.
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I have a Bartlein 3 all steel barrel and my smith cut my 26 down to 24 for 5/8-24 threads
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9/16-24 allows a safe wall thickness and more flexibility in barrel length. A lot of smiths won't do 1/2-28 on a .308 bore due to wall thickness. 7mm is marginal. Adapters should be avoided if possible.
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Thanks for the helpful replies hunt wa. I appreciate all the help.
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9/16-24 allows a safe wall thickness and more flexibility in barrel length. A lot of smiths won't do 1/2-28 on a .308 bore due to wall thickness. 7mm is marginal. Adapters should be avoided if possible.
Does threading 9/16 allow for a large enough "shoulder" to run the suppressor into? That would be my only concern with that.
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The Tikka superlite barrels are fairly small at the muzzle. My 300WSM Tikka SL is right around .618 at the muzzle and .633 one inch from the end of the flutes. Most direct thread suppressors, except for 223 and rimfire cans, are 5/8x24 and TBAC and others recommend a min. .725 OD at muzzle for 5/8x24, .662 for 9/16x24, and .600 for 1/2x28. https://thunderbeastarms.com/tech/thread-specifications
If the Tikka superlite barrels weren't fluted you could chop it back a few inches and gain some muzzle diameter. I've seen some people shorten fluted barrels and I guess it works out ok for them. I'm probably over cautious so I would never have a fluted barrel shortened back in to the fluted part.
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9/16-24 allows a safe wall thickness and more flexibility in barrel length. A lot of smiths won't do 1/2-28 on a .308 bore due to wall thickness. 7mm is marginal. Adapters should be avoided if possible.
Does threading 9/16 allow for a large enough "shoulder" to run the suppressor into? That would be my only concern with that.
It will require less shortening to create a shoulder than 5/8-24 would, but more than 1/2-28.
https://thunderbeastarms.com/tech/thread-specifications