Hunting Washington Forum
Community => Trail Cameras => Topic started by: RustyNail on February 07, 2024, 05:16:17 PM
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What does everyone use for mule deer attractant? I've heard good things about critter lick and black magic. Black magic you can find at Cabelas and tractor supply. Critter lick you have to order online. What do you use in front of ur camera?
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Basic trace mineral salt loose or block. Used to haul 50 lb blocks but now split into 1/2s or 1/4s. Super cheap and very effective. I got away from fancy salts. Depending on setup and area you could add a deer block molasis/ corn type block with the salt on same stand.
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All that crap is marketing to hunters to make a dime off you . Plain and simple the reason any animal comes into those “ attractants “ is the sodium. Go to the feed store and buy trace mineral salt or with selenium . For $11-13 you get 50lbs
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All that crap is marketing to hunters to make a dime off you . Plain and simple the reason any animal comes into those “ attractants “ is the sodium. Go to the feed store and buy trace mineral salt or with selenium . For $11-13 you get 50lbs
100% correct
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:yeah:
With that said....black magic sucked. The original deer cane was amazing. Best part about the deer cane is it is invisible to other hunters. I poured it over an old rotten stump and in a matter of 3 years, the stump was gone and the hole in the earth was 6 inches deep. They loved that stuff. Just remember, it has to be mixed in water or rained on (heavily) before the deer will touch it. It has an exothermic reaction when mixed with water, so the deer won't touch it till this process has taken place.
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Why I use loose salt and not blocks. Blocks are a pain to carry, easily visible and animals can move them from you cam. Wet times of the year the loose disappears or take a shovel and mix into dirt
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Just buy bulk trace minerals as stated and a tub of Kool aid mix and a big bag of sodium bicarbonate and you have black magic or deercaine basically. Add Hi-Yield brand sulfur powder for insects to it if you want also. High amounts of selenium are most important in the Northwest. Most of the region is very deficient in it.
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If you want to speed up the animals finding it I use apple scent and squirt it around , but I dunno if it actually helps speed up them finding it. I’ve dumped just salt or used apple scent and get deer and elk on them sometimes in hours with no scent
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If you want to speed up the animals finding it I use apple scent and squirt it around , but I dunno if it actually helps speed up them finding it. I’ve dumped just salt or used apple scent and get deer and elk on them sometimes in hours with no scent
Apples are actually a huge attractant for all animals. I have even seen coyotes frequenting the grass under the old fruit trees at my brothers place and they will eat the old rotten apples when they are passing through. Bears too of course. Scatter the apples around and it will take them a while to find them all and they will find your mineral as well.
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All that crap is marketing to hunters to make a dime off you . Plain and simple the reason any animal comes into those “ attractants “ is the sodium. Go to the feed store and buy trace mineral salt or with selenium . For $11-13 you get 50lbs
Yup,yup.
Agree.
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I use 50 pound selenium blocks. Deer and elk hit them daily year round.
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Black magic has worked for me. I'd say they like it....a lot. Had to change my cell cam setting immediately to 5 minute delay they were around it so much. And these were the small bucks. Also had a moose come into it.
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nobody said it doesnt work, its the price you pay for a tiny bag when you get the same results with something far cheaper. I have cams in a month that get 4-8k pics on trace salt
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nobody said it doesnt work, its the price you pay for a tiny bag when you get the same results with something far cheaper. I have cams in a month that get 4-8k pics on trace salt
My apologies for falling victim to the marketing scheme. Didn't know a cheaper but equally effective product existed. The cost of a few bags of deer cane / black magic has never been a major burden and it's worked for me and my hunting buddies so I've never considered switching it up.
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My first experience substituting at the feed store was the goat and sheep blocks.
They where like 10 bucks,all the "deer blocks" was 15 and up.
Since then goat and sheep blocks has went up 15.99 or something.
Wet weather they fall apart ,bear will eat the whole thing quickly.
I looked at ingredients,almost exactly the same as a deer block.
They do work good in summer,when it's hot and dry.
If it works for ya I say keep using,it's not a cost issue.
Then go for it.
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Cost aside, look at what the critters need, often different in various areas. Have all the sheds been taken from an area? Might consider Ca/P products. Very low selenium place? Might up Se. Very high Se? Eliminate it. Slow green up year? A/D/E a plus. Balance of micros suitable for your region makes sense. May sound complicated but it is not. Now for the cost, all of this can be done for a fraction of the name brands. Get it done, post pics!!!
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Just buy bulk trace minerals as stated and a tub of Kool aid mix and a big bag of sodium bicarbonate and you have black magic or deercaine basically. Add Hi-Yield brand sulfur powder for insects to it if you want also. High amounts of selenium are most important in the Northwest. Most of the region is very deficient in it.
For sodium bicarbonate do you mean like baking soda?
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Yes, baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, great buffer for keeping a rumen happy
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I've been using loose salt, mineral salt, dicalcium phosphate and dried molasses in my licks. Might have to try the baking soda and Kool aide.
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If there is a bunch of grain around the baking soda is a good idea, no grain?, what you are doing is great!!!
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I've been using loose salt, mineral salt, dicalcium phosphate and dried molasses in my licks. Might have to try the baking soda and Kool aide.
This sounds more like a back country Bear bait site.
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Dried molasses is way over priced for what it adds and I agree, why encourage the bears among us, discourage the fawn/calf eaters whenever possible.
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I'm tagging along on this topic regardless.
I like to get a mule deer before I'm too old or sick or die.
I'll take any tips or tricks,rabbit out the hat that I can get.
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Dried molasses is way over priced for what it adds and I agree, why encourage the bears among us, discourage the fawn/calf eaters whenever possible.
Isn't molasses what they put in the deer blocks?
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Dried molasses is way over priced for what it adds and I agree, why encourage the bears among us, discourage the fawn/calf eaters whenever possible.
Isn't molasses what they put in the deer blocks?
Yes, and the deer like it as well (in small amounts). The biggest downside to anything sweet is it attracts bears. We run deer blocks from Sept. to April as the bear will mostly leave them alone. If I put a deer block out May-August.....bears will eat them in one sitting. It gets to be very expensive.
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Dried molasses is way over priced for what it adds and I agree, why encourage the bears among us, discourage the fawn/calf eaters whenever possible.
Isn't molasses what they put in the deer blocks?
Yes, and the deer like it as well (in small amounts). The biggest downside to anything sweet is it attracts bears. We run deer blocks from Sept. to April as the bear will mostly leave them alone. If I put a deer block out May-August.....bears will eat them in one sitting. It gets to be very expensive.
I prep a lick early spring and lightly till it in. Nothing left spread on surface. When bears show, it's for the new alfalfa growth. Don't see many bear come September. Late fall if/when I feed alfalfa, I'll sprinkle dry molasses on it.
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What you all use for your loose salt .
I've heard of people using water softener salt.
Just curious what others are using.
Just watched this,but he doesn't really specify what kind of salt it is.
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Trophy Rock has never disappointed. Mule deer and Whitetail use it equally at all times of the year in my area.
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Feed grade salt, Cargill trace mineral salt is less than $15. Dried molasses is $.80/#, could accomplish more with $.10 barley.
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Sounds like I'll be going with trace salt ($10 tractor supply for 50lbs) and mix in a box of baking soda at each site. Gonna go heavy on the salt because it's cheap. Going to start putting 5-7 trail cameras up in March.
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I got a bag of this one year for Christmas, put it out behind deer camp one year after leaving, put it on the ground covered it with snow. After the spring melt off the ground was all tore up where it had melted in.
I would never buy stuff marketed for deer/elk.
Like others have said the stuff for cattle works just as good and cheaper.👍
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Less than 1/3 of one ounce per day of bicarb, a little does the job. Tough to figure that out with free ranging critters but the point is just a little bit, replacing the sodium in salt and improving rumen health.
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Sounds like I'll be going with trace salt ($10 tractor supply for 50lbs) and mix in a box of baking soda at each site. Gonna go heavy on the salt because it's cheap. Going to start putting 5-7 trail cameras up in March.
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Ya I feel ya there.
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Yeah the baking soda doesn't need to be mixed with the mineral. I have a large herd of Icelandic sheep and a few goats and the baking soda is in a separate tub because they don't always need it and I worry about it detering them from the mineral. They will consume both and know when they need it or should have it to balance their gut and body. More important than mineral licks is actual protein for them to consume in the earliest parts of antler growth and being healthy coming out of winter. I'm going to start another thread on herd health and supplementing your local deer herd etc. Give me some time and I'll put it together and everyone's input and experience is welcome of course.
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I'll be checking out some of the stuff mentioned here for sure.
The baking soda is new to me ,never heard of that before this topic.
So if anyone wants to break this down for me.
I know salt is a great attractant.
But what minerals exactly grow those monster racks.
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Trophy Rock has never disappointed. Mule deer and Whitetail use it equally at all times of the year in my area.
I always use a bag of trace minerals with selenium and throw down a trophy rock in the spring. The only reason I use a trophy rock is it tends to last longer if I can't get back in to add more salt. One thing I started doing with the rocks is digging a hole to put it in. The elk tend to nose it and push with there hooves. Digging a little hole has seemed to solve this problem
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...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240208/2200378fbff07464817e92578772c6a4.jpg)
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Loose salt/trace mineral is what I use with an occasional salt/mineral/selenium block. Usually cut the blocks into quarters or less with a skil saw. Deer, elk, bear, badger, coyote, skunk all use the licks. I wont be experimenting as this has worked for me/us for 15+ years in the same spots. Plus, I have no doubt it will be illegal in short order.
Requirements for (wild/free range) big bucks are mostly genetics and age class. You wont change that by random dumps of salt and minerals or junk thats aimed at you the consumer more so than deer/elk. :twocents:
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Loose salt/trace mineral is what I use with an occasional salt/mineral/selenium block. Usually cut the blocks into quarters or less with a skil saw. Deer, elk, bear, badger, coyote, skunk all use the licks. I wont be experimenting as this has worked for me/us for 15+ years in the same spots. Plus, I have no doubt it will be illegal in short order.
Requirements for (wild/free range) big bucks are mostly genetics and age class. You wont change that by random dumps of salt and minerals or junk thats aimed at you the consumer more so than deer/elk. :twocents:
I do agree with genetics playing a huge role I antler size and growth.
I've ran enough trail cams to figure that out.
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Genetics it is, rare conditions may put nutrition in the mix for antlers. Does and fawns probably benefit more, less out time getting what they need. Some times of year challenge nutrition, late summer is one we often overlook, hot dry is not just a blue tongue issue.
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Genetics it is, rare conditions may put nutrition in the mix for antlers. Does and fawns probably benefit more, less out time getting what they need. Some times of year challenge nutrition, late summer is one we often overlook, hot dry is not just a blue tongue issue.
Bluetongue has been on my mind with this crazy winter.
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I've wondered about using water softener salt. I've used it for other salt uses (like tuna slurry) because it's cheap. I don't see why it wouldn't work in this application.
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I've wondered about using water softener salt. I've used it for other salt uses (like tuna slurry) because it's cheap. I don't see why it wouldn't work in this application.
I've used it before. Seems to work fine, tried all kinds of different products, but salt seems as good as any. Apples work the best to bring em in, but they'll eat a pretty good pile in a hurry if you have many deer around. (Apples also seem to bring in the coyotes)
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Salt with trace minerals is beneficial, especially for does carrying and lactating so I've read, I doubt softener salt does a darn thing for them aside from quenching their salt requirement.
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Salt with trace minerals is beneficial, especially for does carrying and lactating so I've read, I doubt softener salt does a darn thing for them aside from quenching their salt requirement.
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Actually salt is quite good for deer. Helps create hydrochloric acid which they need for their digestive system. Other minerals are helpful for other things for sure, but plain salt is also quite helpful to ungulates.
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I'll be checking out some of the stuff mentioned here for sure.
The baking soda is new to me ,never heard of that before this topic.
So if anyone wants to break this down for me.
I know salt is a great attractant.
But what minerals exactly grow those monster racks.
There is no mineral supplement that’s ever going to make monster racks. Buck first has to have genetics to reach 160-190 they then need age to reach that potential. Biggest thing you can do is provide quality forage to add inches as deer eat up to 11 lbs of food a day during antler growing. A buck licking some mineral lick every other day is going to do Jack $&@!
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I put out antlermax year round. 16% protein from November until February and then 22% the rest of the year. I have trace mineral(selenium blocks) throughout the property and have also developed water sources. Sprayed noxious weeds to make room for native grasses, tried to reduce predator numbers. I have cameras on all my feeders, water tanks and selenium blocks. I would say the antlermax only supplements their food intake and there are times of the year I go through less antlermax than others. Water they seem to need most of the year except early spring. The selenium blocks they seem to hit daily year round. They antlers may be a little bigger but the one thing that is for sure, I have way more does with twin fawns and way more twin fawns that survive all year.
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My intention with mineral links or attractants is to get pictures of bucks in the area. Not necessarily grow big racks. Sounds like they gotta have genetics anyways which then I'm trying to see what genetics are on my mountain. I've always had good luck with store bought stuff. The problem with store bought stuff is pricing. If I was just buying one bag a month and putting it in one spot in my backyard, I would go with that. However I'm trying to do 5-7 different spots and store bought stuff will be spendy. I also have had great success with apples. The problem with that is packing apples in. You can only fit so many on a frame pack (yes I have done it). I'm thinking I'll pack in 50lb of trace mineral salt. Should be able to disperse that over 5-7 camera locations. Hopefully catch some montana muleys in action!
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My intention with mineral links or attractants is to get pictures of bucks in the area. Not necessarily grow big racks. Sounds like they gotta have genetics anyways which then I'm trying to see what genetics are on my mountain. I've always had good luck with store bought stuff. The problem with store bought stuff is pricing. If I was just buying one bag a month and putting it in one spot in my backyard, I would go with that. However I'm trying to do 5-7 different spots and store bought stuff will be spendy. I also have had great success with apples. The problem with that is packing apples in. You can only fit so many on a frame pack (yes I have done it). I'm thinking I'll pack in 50lb of trace mineral salt. Should be able to disperse that over 5-7 camera locations. Hopefully catch some montana muleys in action!
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I usually cut the apples into smaller chunks and spread them around a bit. If you just put out a pile of whole ones 1 dominant deer will come in and keep.others away while it eats most of your apples. Beleive me, one deer can eat a lot of apples. I never hunt over a bait pile, but bring them in just to see em. Cut apples seem to give off more scent and can bring them into your salt lick fairly quickly
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My intention with mineral links or attractants is to get pictures of bucks in the area. Not necessarily grow big racks. Sounds like they gotta have genetics anyways which then I'm trying to see what genetics are on my mountain. I've always had good luck with store bought stuff. The problem with store bought stuff is pricing. If I was just buying one bag a month and putting it in one spot in my backyard, I would go with that. However I'm trying to do 5-7 different spots and store bought stuff will be spendy. I also have had great success with apples. The problem with that is packing apples in. You can only fit so many on a frame pack (yes I have done it). I'm thinking I'll pack in 50lb of trace mineral salt. Should be able to disperse that over 5-7 camera locations. Hopefully catch some montana muleys in action!
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With that in mind I would say far and away my easiest, least work, longest lasting tried and true attractant would be the 50pound mineral trace selenium block from the feed store. Put it up on a bit of a rise or a low stump, don’t put it in a depression where water will sit around it and break it down. I would think if you split one into 1/4’s each 1/4 would last 6 months for dure
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I'll be checking out some of the stuff mentioned here for sure.
The baking soda is new to me ,never heard of that before this topic.
So if anyone wants to break this down for me.
I know salt is a great attractant.
But what minerals exactly grow those monster racks.
There is no mineral supplement that’s ever going to make monster racks. Buck first has to have genetics to reach 160-190 they then need age to reach that potential. Biggest thing you can do is provide quality forage to add inches as deer eat up to 11 lbs of food a day during antler growing. A buck licking some mineral lick every other day is going to do Jack $&@!
Ya your correct.
If the genetics aren't there,there not there.
That makes sense.👍
I have a few ideas,but I'm gonna keep those to myself till I can try it out.
Kinda a quality forage supplement.
It's a little spendy, definitely wouldn't want to invest in it,unless the genetics are there.
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My intention with mineral links or attractants is to get pictures of bucks in the area. Not necessarily grow big racks. Sounds like they gotta have genetics anyways which then I'm trying to see what genetics are on my mountain. I've always had good luck with store bought stuff. The problem with store bought stuff is pricing. If I was just buying one bag a month and putting it in one spot in my backyard, I would go with that. However I'm trying to do 5-7 different spots and store bought stuff will be spendy. I also have had great success with apples. The problem with that is packing apples in. You can only fit so many on a frame pack (yes I have done it). I'm thinking I'll pack in 50lb of trace mineral salt. Should be able to disperse that over 5-7 camera locations. Hopefully catch some montana muleys in action!
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With that in mind I would say far and away my easiest, least work, longest lasting tried and true attractant would be the 50pound mineral trace selenium block from the feed store. Put it up on a bit of a rise or a low stump, don’t put it in a depression where water will sit around it and break it down. I would think if you split one into 1/4’s each 1/4 would last 6 months for dure
Im gonna say 6 month is probably pretty good estimate .
As long as you don't have too many moose or elk.
Add in a small elk herd,a few moose that quarter will go a little faster.
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My intention with mineral links or attractants is to get pictures of bucks in the area. Not necessarily grow big racks. Sounds like they gotta have genetics anyways which then I'm trying to see what genetics are on my mountain. I've always had good luck with store bought stuff. The problem with store bought stuff is pricing. If I was just buying one bag a month and putting it in one spot in my backyard, I would go with that. However I'm trying to do 5-7 different spots and store bought stuff will be spendy. I also have had great success with apples. The problem with that is packing apples in. You can only fit so many on a frame pack (yes I have done it). I'm thinking I'll pack in 50lb of trace mineral salt. Should be able to disperse that over 5-7 camera locations. Hopefully catch some montana muleys in action!
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With that in mind I would say far and away my easiest, least work, longest lasting tried and true attractant would be the 50pound mineral trace selenium block from the feed store. Put it up on a bit of a rise or a low stump, don’t put it in a depression where water will sit around it and break it down. I would think if you split one into 1/4’s each 1/4 would last 6 months for dure
I agree with this, mine will last for about 3 years. The Muleys seem to use them year round. In the spring mostly does use them, summer does and bucks, fall mostly does, winter is the time mine get hit the most by both does and bucks. If you can find a ridge that the bucks like to travel during the rut drop a block there. It will attract Does and you will get a lot of buck traffic. I have some spots that will get up to 20 different bucks on them during the rut.
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I know this goes against everything.
But the most ironic stuff seems to happen to me all the time .
Talking about cost issues and what not yesterday.
Went to Walmart.......
Black magic was 3 dollar a bag .
Apple crush was 4 dollar a bag.
Bought the last two of the black magic.
Few bags left on the apple crush.
Spokane Northside Walmart if anybody is interested.
Was there an hour ago .
Figure I'll give it a try with traditional salt block.
Kinda spiff up some of these new cameras I'm gonna slap in.
Hopefully deer will find my blocks faster.
Only 10 bucks for what I bought pictured,I'll give it a go.
At the price point , figured heck why not.
Black magic is normally 8 bucks a bag.
Apple crush is normally 10.50 a bag.
Smoking deal.
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Yeah for those prices I would've bought them too. Can't beat those prices! Good find
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A block of trace mineral salt is all you need. Cheap and effective.
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Bought a bag of mineral salt and placed it at the house for a little experiment on how the deer like it. There was some left over cracked corn from about 2 weeks ago, so I ended up mixing it together on the ground. The red looking stuff is the salt. Should be easy to conceal in the woods.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/cebf5e3c56beda5085b589bbbed92b96.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/a4591819339b750637604c29666a29d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/8e64037e35759fe6445f590c76575bcd.jpg)
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A block of trace mineral salt is all you need. Cheap and effective.
I'm definitely gonna invest in blocks too.
Just the discount got the best of me.
I do agree,block,or trace mineral is all that is needed.
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Bought a bag of mineral salt and placed it at the house for a little experiment on how the deer like it. There was some left over cracked corn from about 2 weeks ago, so I ended up mixing it together on the ground. The red looking stuff is the salt. Should be easy to conceal in the woods.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/cebf5e3c56beda5085b589bbbed92b96.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/a4591819339b750637604c29666a29d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/8e64037e35759fe6445f590c76575bcd.jpg)
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Heck ya man.
How much a bag was that. Just curious.
Need some of that too.
I already know where....lol
I've used big six salt block before.
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Bought a bag of mineral salt and placed it at the house for a little experiment on how the deer like it. There was some left over cracked corn from about 2 weeks ago, so I ended up mixing it together on the ground. The red looking stuff is the salt. Should be easy to conceal in the woods.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/cebf5e3c56beda5085b589bbbed92b96.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/a4591819339b750637604c29666a29d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240209/8e64037e35759fe6445f590c76575bcd.jpg)
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Heck ya man.
How much a bag was that. Just curious.
Need some of that too.
I already know where....lol
I've used big six salt block before.
Got mine at tractor supply for $10. Hope the salt does good. If so ill be stocking up and packing that in.
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Good choice!!!
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Simple question, is putting various blocks, etc considered baiting with those limitations in play? Guess should clarify relative to hunting near salted or mineraled area
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Another reason not to use blocks. Granted, if one of wdfw’s fine employees walked to one of my salt spots I’d be more shocked than upset. But loose mineral gets into the ground after a rain or 2. 50 lbs is nearly invisible but the deer know it’s there.
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Simple question, is putting various blocks, etc considered baiting with those limitations in play? Guess should clarify relative to hunting near salted or mineraled area
Yes I'm pretty sure it is considered baiting if it's done on public land that you don't have grazing rights to.
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Simple question, is putting various blocks, etc considered baiting with those limitations in play? Guess should clarify relative to hunting near salted or mineraled area
Yes I'm pretty sure it is considered baiting if it's done on public land that you don't have grazing rights to.
How many blocks can you fit into 10 gallon buckets?
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