Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Scopes and Optics => Topic started by: Crunchy on March 07, 2024, 09:16:29 PM
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Building a new rifle, have action, trigger, stock on order, and barrel being built soon. I have always been a Leupold guy and have never had any issues with their rifle scopes. Binos yes. Anyway, I like the custom dial with Leupold products. So it is nice to range a target and dial in the yardage on the scope in yards. Neither Zeiss or Nightforce offer that option (must be a reason). Clarity, durability, and weight are my main concerns. It is a hunting rig, and a bit of long range shooting. Input?
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Ill throw the first vote. I'm partial to the luepold VX6 but ill throw in the disclaimer that i don't have much experience.with the others. I know nightforce has a good reputation.
As for the custom dial, they are useful but alot of factors are not considered when you turn that dial for the load you have picked out. Primarily temp, elevation and pressure differences.
Hope my info helps
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You can get custom dials for Zeiss and NF. A few companies that make custom turrets. I’ve used Kenton several times.
Now that I have a ballistic calculator in my binoculars, I don’t need yardage turrets.
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I have the VX6HD and has been reliable but if I could swap for an NX8 I would. I don’t think that model was out when I was looking for a scope a few years ago.
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NX8 all the way. I love all my nightforce scopes but the NX8 is the best.
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Yep NX8! Have a few NXS , just got my first NX8 delivered yesterday and it’s sweet. Putting it on the 6.5 PRC today
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My top three choices would be #1 Nightforce, #2 Nightforce, and #3 Nightforce. :tup:
I'm far from there yet but some day I'd like to have one on every CF rifle I have. They may not be the lightest weight choice but their tracking and ability to hold zero is second to none.
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I got to 100% NF. I like the NX8….but still prefer the NXS with the MOAR reticle. I wish you could get it in the 4-32x in F2….it that was the case, it would be the only scope I owned.
The standard, “old school” heavy reticle MOAR.
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Regarding the custom turrets, I wouldn't want to pigeon hole my rifle scope into a ballistic solution for specific environmental variables. I'd put that money towards a rangefinder with a ballistic solver like the Sig BDX.
The rifle scope drop testing over on rokslide opened my eyes to reliable zero retention within a rifle system. I have a Zeiss v4 in TO84 rings and plan to do some moderate abuse testing of my own before hunting season this year. If it passes I'll stick with it. Otherwise I'll be selling it for a Nightforce or other scope proven to reliably maintain zero through moderate abuse. The amount of $1k+ scopes out there that shift zero from simply riding in a truck is pretty astounding.
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Regarding the custom turrets, I wouldn't want to pigeon hole my rifle scope into a ballistic solution for specific environmental variables. I'd put that money towards a rangefinder with a ballistic solver like the Sig BDX.
The rifle scope drop testing over on rokslide opened my eyes to reliable zero retention within a rifle system. I have a Zeiss v4 in TO84 rings and plan to do some moderate abuse testing of my own before hunting season this year. If it passes I'll stick with it. Otherwise I'll be selling it for a Nightforce or other scope proven to reliably maintain zero through moderate abuse. The amount of $1k+ scopes out there that shift zero from simply riding in a truck is pretty astounding.
Those guys are doing everbody a favor with that testing. They've already got scope mfg's reaching out to them to test products before release now, hopefully some other big names will be forced to step up their reliability as a result
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Those guys are doing everbody a favor with that testing. They've already got scope mfg's reaching out to them to test products before release now, hopefully some other big names will be forced to step up their reliability as a result
Agreed, the Maven RS1.2 story is a good testament. I do think too many take is as gospel and don't test their own systems, but that seems to be changing. There are other variable within the system beyond just the scope being able to maintain its zero.
I know my system shifts based on having to rezero it a couple times but I haven't seen any major shifts, just an MOA or two. That's why I want to do some more controlled testing to see if it's the scope or rings.
I'll be considering the NF SHV 4-14x50 FFP or Trijicon Tenmile HX 3-18x44 FFP if I do need to replace it. Maybe the Maven RS1.2 if I can convince myself that 10x max power is enough. I need to practice a lot more to get comfortable shooting longer distances at lower power.
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I got to 100% NF. I like the NX8….but still prefer the NXS with the MOAR reticle. I wish you could get it in the 4-32x in F2….it that was the case, it would be the only scope I owned.
The standard, “old school” heavy reticle MOAR.
fairly certain they offer the 4-32 in F2
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Those guys are doing everbody a favor with that testing. They've already got scope mfg's reaching out to them to test products before release now, hopefully some other big names will be forced to step up their reliability as a result
Agreed, the Maven RS1.2 story is a good testament. I do think too many take is as gospel and don't test their own systems, but that seems to be changing. There are other variable within the system beyond just the scope being able to maintain its zero.
I know my system shifts based on having to rezero it a couple times but I haven't seen any major shifts, just an MOA or two. That's why I want to do some more controlled testing to see if it's the scope or rings.
I'll be considering the NF SHV 4-14x50 FFP or Trijicon Tenmile HX 3-18x44 FFP if I do need to replace it. Maybe the Maven RS1.2 if I can convince myself that 10x max power is enough. I need to practice a lot more to get comfortable shooting longer distances at lower power.
the new maven is quite literally trijicon 10 mile guts with a bit better reticle. My opinion on reticles is just learn the one you have and it's not really a big deal.
I don't think you'll have an issue with 10x personally. My .223 trainer has a fixed 10x and there's no issue spanking plates out to 805 yards (farthest plate My range has). Too much magnification, especially in a SFP can definitely be a hindrance in hunting applications. Especially when hunting solo where spotting impacts is so important :twocents:
My vote is always NF first.
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I got to 100% NF. I like the NX8….but still prefer the NXS with the MOAR reticle. I wish you could get it in the 4-32x in F2….it that was the case, it would be the only scope I owned.
The standard, “old school” heavy reticle MOAR.
fairly certain they offer the 4-32 in F2
My NX8 I just got yesterday is a 4-32x50 with MOAR reticle in F2
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I think all three would be very capable, for me it would come down to perceived clearness of glass, and which reticle I prefer. I have really gotten spoiled by my Firedots.
Can't see me going back to a non-illuminated scope for hunting, though I Might reconsider if the build was for a long range paper shooter.
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Those guys are doing everbody a favor with that testing. They've already got scope mfg's reaching out to them to test products before release now, hopefully some other big names will be forced to step up their reliability as a result
Agreed, the Maven RS1.2 story is a good testament. I do think too many take is as gospel and don't test their own systems, but that seems to be changing. There are other variable within the system beyond just the scope being able to maintain its zero.
I know my system shifts based on having to rezero it a couple times but I haven't seen any major shifts, just an MOA or two. That's why I want to do some more controlled testing to see if it's the scope or rings.
I'll be considering the NF SHV 4-14x50 FFP or Trijicon Tenmile HX 3-18x44 FFP if I do need to replace it. Maybe the Maven RS1.2 if I can convince myself that 10x max power is enough. I need to practice a lot more to get comfortable shooting longer distances at lower power.
the new maven is quite literally trijicon 10 mile guts with a bit better reticle. My opinion on reticles is just learn the one you have and it's not really a big deal.
I don't think you'll have an issue with 10x personally. My .223 trainer has a fixed 10x and there's no issue spanking plates out to 805 yards (farthest plate My range has). Too much magnification, especially in a SFP can definitely be a hindrance in hunting applications. Especially when hunting solo where spotting impacts is so important :twocents:
My vote is always NF first.
For me this seems to differ by scope too. I have no problem shooting past a grand on 10-12x with the NX8, where as the Zeiss I feel like I have to turn up to 20x for a comparable sight picture. :dunno:
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the new maven is quite literally trijicon 10 mile guts with a bit better reticle. My opinion on reticles is just learn the one you have and it's not really a big deal.
I don't think you'll have an issue with 10x personally. My .223 trainer has a fixed 10x and there's no issue spanking plates out to 805 yards (farthest plate My range has). Too much magnification, especially in a SFP can definitely be a hindrance in hunting applications. Especially when hunting solo where spotting impacts is so important :twocents:
My vote is always NF first.
Good to know. Just need them to keep restocking the MIL scope! I have a feeling 10x will be fine, I just want to put a good amount of rounds down range at distance on 10x to make sure before I spend the money. Especially since I'll be buying two of whatever for my main hunting rifle and a .223 trainer as well. Currently have the mindset of increased magnification helps with the aim-small-miss-small principle, but also understand the lower magnification providing recoil control/target re-acquisition benefits among others so I'm working on it starting tomorrow. Only considering FFP since learning more about it.
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I noticed that you've got some first focal plane options and some second focal plane options. I would choose which you want of those two and then compare from there. For instance if you want second focal plane then the zeiss you've picked is out but if you want first focal plane I would compare with the mark 4 or mark 5 from leupold instead of the vx6.
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I noticed that you've got some first focal plane options and some second focal plane options. I would choose which you want of those two and then compare from there. For instance if you want second focal plane then the zeiss you've picked is out but if you want first focal plane I would compare with the mark 4 or mark 5 from leupold instead of the vx6.
Point taken. Second FP for sure. I am more familiar with the older versions of Zeiss glass.
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I got to 100% NF. I like the NX8….but still prefer the NXS with the MOAR reticle. I wish you could get it in the 4-32x in F2….it that was the case, it would be the only scope I owned.
The standard, “old school” heavy reticle MOAR.
I’ve got one too, that’s what the box says, but it isn’t the original MOAR reticle that I talking about.
fairly certain they offer the 4-32 in F2
My NX8 I just got yesterday is a 4-32x50 with MOAR reticle in F2
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I got to 100% NF. I like the NX8….but still prefer the NXS with the MOAR reticle. I wish you could get it in the 4-32x in F2….it that was the case, it would be the only scope I owned.
The standard, “old school” heavy reticle MOAR.
I’ve got one too, that’s what the box says, but it isn’t the original MOAR reticle that I talking about.
fairly certain they offer the 4-32 in F2
My NX8 I just got yesterday is a 4-32x50 with MOAR reticle in F2
Very true - it is finer and a little more busy than the MOAR in my NXS’s
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I noticed that you've got some first focal plane options and some second focal plane options. I would choose which you want of those two and then compare from there. For instance if you want second focal plane then the zeiss you've picked is out but if you want first focal plane I would compare with the mark 4 or mark 5 from leupold instead of the vx6.
Point taken. Second FP for sure. I am more familiar with the older versions of Zeiss glass.
Why SFP? If you hold for elevation or wind, the hash marks will only be accurate at full power.
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I noticed that you've got some first focal plane options and some second focal plane options. I would choose which you want of those two and then compare from there. For instance if you want second focal plane then the zeiss you've picked is out but if you want first focal plane I would compare with the mark 4 or mark 5 from leupold instead of the vx6.
Point taken. Second FP for sure. I am more familiar with the older versions of Zeiss glass.
Why SFP? If you hold for elevation or wind, the hash marks will only be accurate at full power.
The NX8 has a hold for 16 or 32 power. But more importantly, why hold over when you could dial in a hunting situation? Wind for me is always a hold as I never dial my wind, but again the NX8 has holds for 16 or 32 power.
The FFP scopes I have looked have such fine reticule on the lower power that I just can’t buy into it for hunting situations. I wish I liked them more, but at 4 powere it is almost unusable with my eyes.
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The NX8 has a hold for 16 or 32 power. But more importantly, why hold over when you could dial in a hunting situation? Wind for me is always a hold as I never dial my wind, but again the NX8 has holds for 16 or 32 power.
The FFP scopes I have looked have such fine reticule on the lower power that I just can’t buy into it for hunting situations. I wish I liked them more, but at 4 powere it is almost unusable with my eyes.
Dial for elevation for sure if the situation allows for it. Being able to hold over at any power if a quick shot is needed is nice though. Probably could have shot a buck in Montana last season if I hadn't taken a few second to dial after getting my adjustment from the BDX. He dumped over the ridge right as I got steady. Needed a couple more seconds to pull the trigger. Reticle usability at lower powers is a good point.
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I have a old leupold
Bench sited it once on my .300wm
Never touched the dials again
Does NF have a full lifetime warranty?
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The NX8 has a hold for 16 or 32 power. But more importantly, why hold over when you could dial in a hunting situation? Wind for me is always a hold as I never dial my wind, but again the NX8 has holds for 16 or 32 power.
The FFP scopes I have looked have such fine reticule on the lower power that I just can’t buy into it for hunting situations. I wish I liked them more, but at 4 powere it is almost unusable with my eyes.
Dial for elevation for sure if the situation allows for it. Being able to hold over at any power if a quick shot is needed is nice though. Probably could have shot a buck in Montana last season if I hadn't taken a few second to dial after getting my adjustment from the BDX. He dumped over the ridge right as I got steady. Needed a couple more seconds to pull the trigger. Reticle usability at lower powers is a good point.
Honest question for you...was it the added time to dial that was truly the issue or was it likely your unfamiliarity with building a shooting position and getting on target that cost you time? If that buck got away because you had to dial that means he was moving. If he was close enough to warrant a shot at a moving animal then he wasn't far enough to warrant dialing and if you knew your drops intimately you could have held accordingly and fired. No hash marks needed. Please don't take this as me picking on you as I very much am not. These are honest discussions we need to have with ourselves about our true capabilities with a weapon and what our real weapon skills need to be to take certain shots.
I've used both ffp and sfp. I'm still a sfp guy. I understand the merits of a ffp but I also think being proficient and knowing your weapon system mitigates all those arguments. For example, if the animal is far enough away that you need to precisely hold wind, you have time to back power down to half or up to full. If it's closer and that level of precision isn't needed simply hold into the wind and go.
All scope function adjustments should be made while in the gun. Dialing, parallax, zoom. Learn your system. A trip to any range USA will prove that these are the vast majority of shooters issues. Spot deer, range deer, get on the gun, dial, aim, shoot.
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For spotting shots I find 16 power about perfect with big boomers so the NX8 works for both reticle or dial for wind. Im always dialed for elevation . Wish I was good enough to use a horus type proficiently but not there yet. Range, dial, shoot.
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3-18 Trijicon Tenmile. Can’t go wrong with NF but 3-18 is more than enough for anything outside of ELR.
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Disregard, looks like they discontinued the Tenmile in SFP.
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The NX8 has a hold for 16 or 32 power. But more importantly, why hold over when you could dial in a hunting situation? Wind for me is always a hold as I never dial my wind, but again the NX8 has holds for 16 or 32 power.
The FFP scopes I have looked have such fine reticule on the lower power that I just can’t buy into it for hunting situations. I wish I liked them more, but at 4 powere it is almost unusable with my eyes.
Dial for elevation for sure if the situation allows for it. Being able to hold over at any power if a quick shot is needed is nice though. Probably could have shot a buck in Montana last season if I hadn't taken a few second to dial after getting my adjustment from the BDX. He dumped over the ridge right as I got steady. Needed a couple more seconds to pull the trigger. Reticle usability at lower powers is a good point.
Honest question for you...was it the added time to dial that was truly the issue or was it likely your unfamiliarity with building a shooting position and getting on target that cost you time? If that buck got away because you had to dial that means he was moving. If he was close enough to warrant a shot at a moving animal then he wasn't far enough to warrant dialing and if you knew your drops intimately you could have held accordingly and fired. No hash marks needed. Please don't take this as me picking on you as I very much am not. These are honest discussions we need to have with ourselves about our true capabilities with a weapon and what our real weapon skills need to be to take certain shots.
I've used both ffp and sfp. I'm still a sfp guy. I understand the merits of a ffp but I also think being proficient and knowing your weapon system mitigates all those arguments. For example, if the animal is far enough away that you need to precisely hold wind, you have time to back power down to half or up to full. If it's closer and that level of precision isn't needed simply hold into the wind and go.
All scope function adjustments should be made while in the gun. Dialing, parallax, zoom. Learn your system. A trip to any range USA will prove that these are the vast majority of shooters issues. Spot deer, range deer, get on the gun, dial, aim, shoot.
I was about to crawl over a berm with the rifle and looked back at my spotter who was signaling to look left. A coyote had bumped them while I was moving around/down and out of sight of both. Buck was up a doe's butt and didn't seem to really know what was going on other than following her. They stopped before a small valley and were still for maybe 10-15 seconds, hard to say. Kind of that moment where mulies feel far enough away from the threat and stop to look back but then keep moving off.
Pack was already off so repositioned to where the rifle wouldn't shoot into the berm and set the fore-end on top of the pack with the pack standing. Ranged it at 240 or so and the scope was on 6x. Shouldered the gun and dialed 2 1/4 MOA or so, shooting position felt good. Found him in the scope quickly, safety off and they dropped into the valley. Could've pulled the trigger as he was just starting to trot after the doe but didn't for obvious reasons.
I'm not blaming the SFP scope for not being able to get a shot off. I'm sure I could shave some time off other steps in the process with more practice. Shooting position and finding the deer in the scope did not feel excessively time consuming. I always would have ranged it and the BDX spits out a drop pretty quick, but that felt like it took forever compared to the other steps. Dialing was just one aspect of the experience that comes to mind as a step that could have been eliminated if I had a FFP scope and practiced with hold over within reasonable distances for a fast encounter like that. Right now, the hash marks on my SFP scope are useless for all intents and purposes because I never shoot at 16x unless I'm target shooting at 800+.
That particular experience is why I'm going to be shooting a lot more field position work and with high heart rate this summer. Hill sprint, build position, shoot, repeat. Now that I don't live in Seattle it won't be nearly as miserable to go shooting.
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NF NX8. All my rifles have one besides my 300 WSM. The only reason it doesn’t have one was the NX8 was not out when I had it built. You can find them in the $1700-$1900 range for Demo scopes. The three demo I bought looked brand new when I received them.
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The NX8 has a hold for 16 or 32 power. But more importantly, why hold over when you could dial in a hunting situation? Wind for me is always a hold as I never dial my wind, but again the NX8 has holds for 16 or 32 power.
The FFP scopes I have looked have such fine reticule on the lower power that I just can’t buy into it for hunting situations. I wish I liked them more, but at 4 powere it is almost unusable with my eyes.
Dial for elevation for sure if the situation allows for it. Being able to hold over at any power if a quick shot is needed is nice though. Probably could have shot a buck in Montana last season if I hadn't taken a few second to dial after getting my adjustment from the BDX. He dumped over the ridge right as I got steady. Needed a couple more seconds to pull the trigger. Reticle usability at lower powers is a good point.
Honest question for you...was it the added time to dial that was truly the issue or was it likely your unfamiliarity with building a shooting position and getting on target that cost you time? If that buck got away because you had to dial that means he was moving. If he was close enough to warrant a shot at a moving animal then he wasn't far enough to warrant dialing and if you knew your drops intimately you could have held accordingly and fired. No hash marks needed. Please don't take this as me picking on you as I very much am not. These are honest discussions we need to have with ourselves about our true capabilities with a weapon and what our real weapon skills need to be to take certain shots.
I've used both ffp and sfp. I'm still a sfp guy. I understand the merits of a ffp but I also think being proficient and knowing your weapon system mitigates all those arguments. For example, if the animal is far enough away that you need to precisely hold wind, you have time to back power down to half or up to full. If it's closer and that level of precision isn't needed simply hold into the wind and go.
All scope function adjustments should be made while in the gun. Dialing, parallax, zoom. Learn your system. A trip to any range USA will prove that these are the vast majority of shooters issues. Spot deer, range deer, get on the gun, dial, aim, shoot.
I was about to crawl over a berm with the rifle and looked back at my spotter who was signaling to look left. A coyote had bumped them while I was moving around/down and out of sight of both. Buck was up a doe's butt and didn't seem to really know what was going on other than following her. They stopped before a small valley and were still for maybe 10-15 seconds, hard to say. Kind of that moment where mulies feel far enough away from the threat and stop to look back but then keep moving off.
Pack was already off so repositioned to where the rifle wouldn't shoot into the berm and set the fore-end on top of the pack with the pack standing. Ranged it at 240 or so and the scope was on 6x. Shouldered the gun and dialed 2 1/4 MOA or so, shooting position felt good. Found him in the scope quickly, safety off and they dropped into the valley. Could've pulled the trigger as he was just starting to trot after the doe but didn't for obvious reasons.
I'm not blaming the SFP scope for not being able to get a shot off. I'm sure I could shave some time off other steps in the process with more practice. Shooting position and finding the deer in the scope did not feel excessively time consuming. I always would have ranged it and the BDX spits out a drop pretty quick, but that felt like it took forever compared to the other steps. Dialing was just one aspect of the experience that comes to mind as a step that could have been eliminated if I had a FFP scope and practiced with hold over within reasonable distances for a fast encounter like that. Right now, the hash marks on my SFP scope are useless for all intents and purposes because I never shoot at 16x unless I'm target shooting at 800+.
That particular experience is why I'm going to be shooting a lot more field position work and with high heart rate this summer. Hill sprint, build position, shoot, repeat. Now that I don't live in Seattle it won't be nearly as miserable to go shooting.
appreciate the honest response and the acknowledgment of the areas you need to improve on.
This is pretty much what I figured it would be. In that scenario, knowing roughly what your drops are would allowed you to just hold high lung and break your shot off. Dead buck. Another practice is to dial your gun up to a 200 yard zero while walking around. Eliminates the issue of having to do anything for those fast close shots. Or get a ffp scope :chuckle: But regardless of focal plane choice you still need to know your system inside and out. Just makes things more automatic. You ever get up towards yakima hit me up and we'll go burn some powder :tup:
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With weight being one of your concerns I would throw either the VX6-HD 3-18 x 44 or the VX5-HD 3-15 x 44 or equivalents from other brands as choices. I really like the Wind-Plex and TMOA reticles from leupold. That Zeiss is a pretty heavy scope at 36 oz if I'm seeing that right.
15 or 18 power is plenty for doing some long range practice with a hunting rifle and I personally don't think you lose enough light transmission with a 44mm objective for it to be of concern.
:twocents:
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I know you didn't have this as one of the choices but my Zeiss V6 3-18x50 with a Kenton turret has been amazing. Light, positive zero stop, perfect dialing out to 1,300 yards and all over so far.
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I love my vx6 scope
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appreciate the honest response and the acknowledgment of the areas you need to improve on.
This is pretty much what I figured it would be. In that scenario, knowing roughly what your drops are would allowed you to just hold high lung and break your shot off. Dead buck. Another practice is to dial your gun up to a 200 yard zero while walking around. Eliminates the issue of having to do anything for those fast close shots. Or get a ffp scope :chuckle: But regardless of focal plane choice you still need to know your system inside and out. Just makes things more automatic. You ever get up towards yakima hit me up and we'll go burn some powder :tup:
Fortunately I don't live in Seattle anymore, way easier to go shoot. And only 2hrs from Yakima so I'll have to take you up on it!
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That Ziess will arguably have the best glass...
If you haven't looked through all of them I would recommend it before buying.
NF is great scope. Well built. But they tend to be on the heavy side.
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That Ziess will arguably have the best glass...
If you haven't looked through all of them I would recommend it before buying.
NF is great scope. Well built. But they tend to be on the heavy side.
I know Zeiss is great glass. If that was the only factor I would pick them . I have the Leupold VX6HD 3-18X44 but need more on the upper end of the magnification. I am not super impressed with Leupold clarity, It is just ok maybe a 7 on a scale of 10. Getting their 4-24 model isn't an automatic. . Nightforce I am least familiar with, but as long as the glass is better than Leupold it might be a good option.
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Building a new rifle, have action, trigger, stock on order, and barrel being built soon. I have always been a Leupold guy and have never had any issues with their rifle scopes. Binos yes. Anyway, I like the custom dial with Leupold products. So it is nice to range a target and dial in the yardage on the scope in yards. Neither Zeiss or Nightforce offer that option (must be a reason). Clarity, durability, and weight are my main concerns. It is a hunting rig, and a bit of long range shooting. Input?
I have several Leupold VX-6’s. I really like all of them. I recently built a 7PRC and was at the range today. I had my VX-6 3-18 on my .308 and put a VX6HD 4-24x52 on the 7PRC. The upgrade to the HD is absolutely worth it if this helps. Maybe its my 53 year old eyes but the HD was much clearer..
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Building a new rifle, have action, trigger, stock on order, and barrel being built soon. I have always been a Leupold guy and have never had any issues with their rifle scopes. Binos yes. Anyway, I like the custom dial with Leupold products. So it is nice to range a target and dial in the yardage on the scope in yards. Neither Zeiss or Nightforce offer that option (must be a reason). Clarity, durability, and weight are my main concerns. It is a hunting rig, and a bit of long range shooting. Input?
I have several Leupold VX-6’s. I really like all of them. I recently built a 7PRC and was at the range today. I had my VX-6 3-18 on my .308 and put a VX6HD 4-24x52 on the 7PRC. The upgrade to the HD is absolutely worth it if this helps. Maybe its my 53 year old eyes but the HD was much clearer..
Nice set up. I am also building a 7prc. What powder/bullet combo have you tried?
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Building a new rifle, have action, trigger, stock on order, and barrel being built soon. I have always been a Leupold guy and have never had any issues with their rifle scopes. Binos yes. Anyway, I like the custom dial with Leupold products. So it is nice to range a target and dial in the yardage on the scope in yards. Neither Zeiss or Nightforce offer that option (must be a reason). Clarity, durability, and weight are my main concerns. It is a hunting rig, and a bit of long range shooting. Input?
I have several Leupold VX-6’s. I really like all of them. I recently built a 7PRC and was at the range today. I had my VX-6 3-18 on my .308 and put a VX6HD 4-24x52 on the 7PRC. The upgrade to the HD is absolutely worth it if this helps. Maybe its my 53 year old eyes but the HD was much clearer..
Nice set up. I am also building a 7prc. What powder/bullet combo have you tried?
I just loaded up some 139gr. Hornady with 68.5gr of RL-25 because I had to use it up. Proof Research recommended a break-in procedure so I just loaded those to get some rounds through it. I have some Barnes 145 and 168 LRX I plaln to work up with SC4831.
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Building a new rifle, have action, trigger, stock on order, and barrel being built soon. I have always been a Leupold guy and have never had any issues with their rifle scopes. Binos yes. Anyway, I like the custom dial with Leupold products. So it is nice to range a target and dial in the yardage on the scope in yards. Neither Zeiss or Nightforce offer that option (must be a reason). Clarity, durability, and weight are my main concerns. It is a hunting rig, and a bit of long range shooting. Input?
I have several Leupold VX-6’s. I really like all of them. I recently built a 7PRC and was at the range today. I had my VX-6 3-18 on my .308 and put a VX6HD 4-24x52 on the 7PRC. The upgrade to the HD is absolutely worth it if this helps. Maybe its my 53 year old eyes but the HD was much clearer..
Nice set up. I am also building a 7prc. What powder/bullet combo have you tried?
I just loaded up some 139gr. Hornady with 68.5gr of RL-25 because I had to use it up. Proof Research recommended a break-in procedure so I just loaded those to get some rounds through it. I have some Barnes 145 and 168 LRX I plaln to work up with SC4831.
my plan is to shoot Berger 180vlds or 180 elms. I have retumbo, h1000, and n560 to try. Just waiting on barrel, stock, and need to order this scope in the next couple of weeks.
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The NX8 has a hold for 16 or 32 power. But more importantly, why hold over when you could dial in a hunting situation? Wind for me is always a hold as I never dial my wind, but again the NX8 has holds for 16 or 32 power.
The FFP scopes I have looked have such fine reticule on the lower power that I just can’t buy into it for hunting situations. I wish I liked them more, but at 4 powere it is almost unusable with my eyes.
Dial for elevation for sure if the situation allows for it. Being able to hold over at any power if a quick shot is needed is nice though. Probably could have shot a buck in Montana last season if I hadn't taken a few second to dial after getting my adjustment from the BDX. He dumped over the ridge right as I got steady. Needed a couple more seconds to pull the trigger. Reticle usability at lower powers is a good point.
Honest question for you...was it the added time to dial that was truly the issue or was it likely your unfamiliarity with building a shooting position and getting on target that cost you time? If that buck got away because you had to dial that means he was moving. If he was close enough to warrant a shot at a moving animal then he wasn't far enough to warrant dialing and if you knew your drops intimately you could have held accordingly and fired. No hash marks needed. Please don't take this as me picking on you as I very much am not. These are honest discussions we need to have with ourselves about our true capabilities with a weapon and what our real weapon skills need to be to take certain shots.
I've used both ffp and sfp. I'm still a sfp guy. I understand the merits of a ffp but I also think being proficient and knowing your weapon system mitigates all those arguments. For example, if the animal is far enough away that you need to precisely hold wind, you have time to back power down to half or up to full. If it's closer and that level of precision isn't needed simply hold into the wind and go.
All scope function adjustments should be made while in the gun. Dialing, parallax, zoom. Learn your system. A trip to any range USA will prove that these are the vast majority of shooters issues. Spot deer, range deer, get on the gun, dial, aim, shoot.
I realize this is a necro thread, but....good point.
Assuming you have a cartridge with some speed, why the need to dial for 240 yards? Why wouldn't you already be carrying for something in the 250 yard zone?
A lot (me included) could practice estimating yardages instead of relying on electronics/optics. Use the electronics to train your estimating. You don't need to be spot on, just bracketed. Shooting deer inside 300 yards with most modern cartridges shouldn't need much if any peripherals. Leave the dope for the actual long shots. We can get too reliant on fancy tools and neglect the one in our noggin.
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I’ve used Vx6 7-42, Mark V 7-35, NX8 4-32, ZCO 4-20 for target shooting - 1000’s of rounds at 1000+ yards and hunting.
The VX6 turrets died on me - repaired then died a second time.
The Mark V is sharp, well designed and my favorite tho 4 oz heavier than NX8. It is SFP - only Mark V that is. Been holding zero so far - 400 rounds from Lapua 338.
The NX8 is my hunting rifle I can depend on and only 28 oz. Glass not as good as Mark V but useable. SFP sits on my 338 Lapua Ai
The ZCO glass was amazing. I sold it tho wasn’t worth the extra weight - I was hoping the forgiving eyebox would help with spotting shots but it didn’t.
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I picked up a NX-8 4-32 and love it. Very nice hunting scope in my opinion.
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I picked up a NX-8 4-32 and love it. Very nice hunting scope in my opinion.
Careful. These are like cookies: can't just have one.
RW
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I picked up a NX-8 4-32 and love it. Very nice hunting scope in my opinion.
Careful. These are like cookies: can't just have one.
RW
:yeah: :yeah:
For the money....best scope on the market in my opinion.
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Nothing else matters if the scope isn't built well enough to hold zero through normal usage.
Given the choices in the poll, it would clearly be NF.
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I picked up a NX-8 4-32 and love it. Very nice hunting scope in my opinion.
Careful. These are like cookies: can't just have one.
RW
:yeah: :yeah:
For the money....best scope on the market in my opinion.
:yeah:
Got a couple , just about to order my 3rd
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night force guys.....any issues with the exposed turret? I hate the idea of it not being capped.
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night force guys.....any issues with the exposed turret? I hate the idea of it not being capped.
Never had an issue. Be tough to have one spin by inadvertent contact.
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night force guys.....any issues with the exposed turret? I hate the idea of it not being capped.
Never had an issue. Be tough to have one spin by inadvertent contact.
:yeah: My scopes usually wear a neoprene cover while I’m hunting anyways, if you are really beating heavy timber a lot with no scope cover I guess you could have one move theoretically but I don’t recall ever having that happen. You could always get a capped shv if you’re really worried about it but IMO it’s basically a non issue
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Never had a problem with the exposed turrets. Took my NX8 on a moose hunt a couple years ago and had 8 days riding around in argos bumping, bouncing, in and out of cases, etc...... and never had an issue. Also have never had an issue with dirt and grime getting in and causing problems.
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Thanks for the reply’s. Haven’t owned a nf but lookin at them. Don’t love the exposed turret or the overcomplicated reticle offerings
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Ive hunted for almost 14 years with the night force nxs and then the nx8 since they’ve came out and only once had the turret spin on me inadvertently a whole whopping .25MOA. The turret isn’t a problem. You have to purposefully turn them. Truck seats, packs, brush ect won’t spin them. I do pay attention and check mine often either by sight or just grabbing twisting up in elevation and then back down to the zero stop. I agree about the the reticles. I wish they’d make a floating dot in cross airs with mils/moa holds only for the windage.
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Easy, huskemaw! Dial and shoot, easy peasy. Had mine for many years, love it.
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I’ve had pretty good luck with mine over the years as well