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Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: elksnout on April 11, 2024, 01:36:08 PM
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New Holland TC24D. Ran it last week for a couple of hours and it fired right up as always. Shut it off, got on it later and while hitting the key I got that click, click, click then it started. Yesterday when I went to start it there was silence. Nothing. Hooked it up to a jump battery and it started easily. Ran it, shut it down. After charging the battery all night it again was dead at the key. Checked battery with meter and she reads 12.4. Hooked jumper battery up and nothing. Jacked around a bit with key, then it started. Ran for an hour just now. Shut it down. Tried restarting her, crickets…
Battery still reads 12.4. Solenoid? Ignition switch? Neutral safety switch?
elksnout
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If your battery is only reading 12.4V after being charged, then I would suspect a bad battery. Battery should be up around 14V at full charge.
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Not true a new battery should be somewhere in the 12 1/2 to 13 volts. charging systems are 14 volt in cars but a fully charged resting lead acid battery is close to 2.2 volts per cell.
Not to say it cant be the battery. There is more to batteries than just voltage. there is also load draw. you can have a battery that shows good voltage but once you put a load to it you get nothing.
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Always check easy/cheap things first. Here is what I would check for.
Make sure your all your PTO levers are disengaged completely. I believe it will cut out if they are partially engaged. You may have to hold it in the off position while using your key in the ignition.
If that doesn't work.
1). Pull battery cables and clean posts. (Use baking soda and water to clean corrosion) Make extra sure your negative cable is well grounded on the other end.
2). Pull fuse cover and check fuses, (use multimeter set to ohms to check resistance). Resistance is good.
3). Turn on your key and see if your display panel lights up.
4). You can jump from a spare battery to your starter to see if your tractor will turn over. If so your starter is good.
If you have problems beyond that I'd start testing safety switches, relays etc.
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Check for loose connections at the battery. Sounds exactly like what I had
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The first thing I would do is take the battery and have a load test done on it.
But I might not be the best person to ask.
When you are getting the load test done make sure you have clean post on the cables.
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I have a tc30. The first couple of years owning it I kept it immaculate. Pressure washing, keeping it clean. Then the electrical gremlins showed up. I replaced safety switches and the problem would go away temporarily. Eventually i found a bad relay.
I haven’t washed the tractor for years. I just blow it off with air and have not had a problem since.
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Battery connections are tight on each end of both cables. Battery posts are clean. I’ve checked and rechecked positions of my PTO levers. Dash lights up with key complete with idiot lights and fuel gauge. Headlights do not come on except when jumper battery is hooked up. Thinking my battery is shot but now the tractor won’t even start when hooked to jumper battery ?
Got to leave to pick up grandkids from school then baseball practice. Try again tomorrow. Thanks for ideas.
elksnout
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Sounds like a switch, solenoid or the ground to me. If when it starts, it fires right off as normal, that tells me the battery is doing its job. If possible, bypass the ignition switch to rule it out. Ground is easy to clean and tighten. Good luck!
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Bad connection at battery.
If battery is at 12.4V, it should be at least trying to fire up.
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You really have to be able to test cold cranking amps if you’re trying to test a battery. Just because it’s showing 12.4 volts or whatever it’s showing doesn’t mean the battery is good.
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I just went through this with my Zero Turn. Started right up first time in his year. Shut it down to go do poop patrol. Went to start it up again click click click.
I hooked up my jump starter, cranked it right up. Got the front mowed, then not thinking shut it down to open gate to backyard, and went to restart, and nothing. Looked up my receipt 4 year old one week ago. It has a 3-4 year lifespan.
Drove down to O’Reily’s and picked up a new higher cranking amps battery, and I started right up and has been flawless since.
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Can you short the starter out at the solenoid terminals and see if it kicks in? I have a POS Jinma I was having problems with. Ended up pulling the starter and found out the brushes weren't all hitting the armature they were stuck in the brush housings. Freed everything up and put it back together, all is good now.
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Neutral safety switch is bad
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There are multiple safety switches on those from the PTO levers and the gear selector. Might have a relay of some sort tied into them as well. Good luck!
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My WM70 had a similar problem. It ended up being one of my switches to the loader was stuck and draining the battery.
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How old is the battery? I have had 2 go out on me. They work fine one minute and dead the next, nothing wrong with the tractor just the battery. My diesel truck batteries will do the same. You can take it out and charge it then have a load test put on it. But if it is a few years old, then depending on if it sits outside or garaged I would suspect the battery. I think mine were about 5 yrs old each time and it's garage kept.
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this is a pretty easy way to test the battery on all of your equipment.
https://www.harborfreight.com/135-amp-612v-battery-and-system-load-tester-58944.html
Puts a simple load on the battery.
Can you short the starter out at the solenoid terminals and see if it kicks in? I have a POS Jinma I was having problems with. Ended up pulling the starter and found out the brushes weren't all hitting the armature they were stuck in the brush housings. Freed everything up and put it back together, all is good now.
One of the tractors I have owned was a jimna. It had a glow plug problem. They fed the glow plug circuit with a 22 gauge wire to heat the plugs. It would roll over but was hard starting.
The cure was to add a 30 amp automotive relay in the start circuit and then run from the battery a #10 wire to the glo plug strip. I used the original wire to feed the relay.
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Unless both of your batteries are bad this is a relay, sensor, connection issue it sounds like to me. Try wiggling wires at Connectors while turning it over to see if that makes a connection somewhere.
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I'm with LDennis. Sounds like a safety switch (Neutral, clutch, seat, ???) or a loose connection.
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A lot of Deere’s have an issue with voltage drop to the solenoid through the ignition switch. A relay close to the solenoid is the fix
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Battery is newer and load tested solid today. Fuses checked out good as well. Regarding not starting I need to be clear that it isn’t turning over with the key. Nothing. Nada except a light click at or near the starter. Lights and dash all light up.
I’ve checked and rechecked all levers, etc. Here’s the deal. It ran with everything working. Parked it and shut it down. Didn’t do anything PTO wise except lower loader and box blade. Immediately tried starting it and nothing. At the turn of the key there’s one and only one light click at or near the starter. Hard to tell while on the seat.
elksnout
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Sounds like starter problems to me.
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Do you have the pto engaged? My Kubota will not start if the pto is engaged. Or your if you are not saddled up in the seat. But in neutral with not and not in any gears it will start and idle, but if it is any forward or reverse it is just a lawn ornament.
Neighbor was using my tractor today tilling up his garden and stalled it and he couldn't get it fired with the pto engaged.
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BINGO!!
Drive’n me nuts. Went back out and tossed more wood on my burn pile and thinking about cocktail hour and neutral safety switches…. Got under there and started jiggling those wires. Hit the key and she fired up.
Should order a new unit with fresh connectors and will But I’m happy!!
Thanks to all for your input. Whiskey on ice tonight!
elksnout
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BINGO!!
Drive’n me nuts. Went back out and tossed more wood on my burn pile and thinking about cocktail hour and neutral safety switches…. Got under there and started jiggling those wires. Hit the key and she fired up.
Should order a new unit with fresh connectors and will But I’m happy!!
Thanks to all for your input. Whiskey on ice tonight!
elksnout
Is your switch not adjustable?
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Alright! I hate safety sensors. You can bypass that but it's not safe when you come to rely on it to keep someone from starting it in gear.
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BINGO!!
Drive’n me nuts. Went back out and tossed more wood on my burn pile and thinking about cocktail hour and neutral safety switches…. Got under there and started jiggling those wires. Hit the key and she fired up.
Should order a new unit with fresh connectors and will But I’m happy!!
Thanks to all for your input. Whiskey on ice tonight!
elksnout
Actually doesn’t make sense. You said that the solenoid was clicking, that means the solenoid was getting voltage. An open safety won’t allow that
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BINGO!!
Drive’n me nuts. Went back out and tossed more wood on my burn pile and thinking about cocktail hour and neutral safety switches…. Got under there and started jiggling those wires. Hit the key and she fired up.
Should order a new unit with fresh connectors and will But I’m happy!!
Thanks to all for your input. Whiskey on ice tonight!
elksnout
Actually doesn’t make sense. You said that the solenoid was clicking, that means the solenoid was getting voltage. An open safety won’t allow that
I referenced a light click. Just one while turning the key to start. Very faint. Not your basic click, click, click if that’s makes sense. It was clearly the neutral safety wires at the connectors. Still starts. Thank you. I’ve learned a lot the last couple of days.
elksnout