Post by: JakeLand on June 29, 2024, 02:31:06 PM
Thanks for any and all responses!
Post by: hughjorgan on June 29, 2024, 03:08:09 PM
Post by: Crunchy on June 29, 2024, 04:42:12 PM
Post by: fishngamereaper on June 29, 2024, 04:59:01 PM
Rival or madman.
I think he's got a 4th of July sale right now to.
Was/is on Huntwa...
Post by: MIKEXRAY on June 29, 2024, 05:15:56 PM
Post by: grousetracker on June 29, 2024, 05:16:26 PM
Post by: Rutnbuxnbulls on June 29, 2024, 07:10:50 PM
Post by: scotsman on June 29, 2024, 07:33:18 PM
Magnus Stinger 4 blade
Post by: TeacherMan on June 29, 2024, 08:44:05 PM
Post by: WapitiTalk1 on June 29, 2024, 08:45:39 PM
Magnus Stinger 4 blade
This…. a true CoC head. They are devastating.
Post by: carpsniperg2 on June 29, 2024, 09:04:55 PM
Radical archery :tup:
Rival or madman.
I think he's got a 4th of July sale right now to.
Was/is on Huntwa...
Only broadhead I will screw onto my arrows as long as RAD is making them!!!
Post by: trophyhunt on June 30, 2024, 07:30:55 AM
I’ve used Shuttle Ts for ten years now, since starting bow hunting. I like their accuracy and they fly very similar to my field points. All pass throughs except one buck where the broadhead broke the front leg.love my shuttle T’s, big holes!!
Post by: vandeman17 on June 30, 2024, 07:58:25 AM
Post by: jrebel on June 30, 2024, 08:05:50 AM
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on June 30, 2024, 08:39:41 AM
Sharpest out of package (no particular order):
Iron will
G5 stryker
Grim reaper hades
RAD ti con
Most single bevel options
Most accurate and forgiving:
RAD ti con
Grim reaper Micro Hades pro
Muzzy trocar
Slick trick standard
Quietest:
Hard to say, solids tend to do well overall.
G5 M3
Post by: JakeLand on June 30, 2024, 08:41:49 AM
Post by: jrebel on June 30, 2024, 09:26:02 AM
A lot of people like the Montec G5.....it sounded like a whistle dart coming out of a nerf gun when I shot it. That eliminated that one immediately for me. I used to shoot and....LOVED....the shuttle T's and they make big holes. I stopped because they were so inconsistent. Six would shoot same POI as my broadheads then one wouldn't. Settled on Slick Trick Standard 125's because they all shoot same POI as my broadheads. Over years they have proven to be very effective on game.
If I were you.....I would look to members to see if you could gather a couple broadheads to try. See what works well out of your bow and go with that. I would gladly donate a Slick Trick Standard 125 and maybe others (If I still have them).
Post by: Feathernfurr on June 30, 2024, 09:47:02 AM
Shoot what flys well for you, and is stupid sharp. Regardless of brand and diameter, if you put it in the pump house, you’re good to go.
I will say, the iron wills are cool. But I’m personally in the mindset of what is easily attainable. I do a little bit of traveling to hunt and want a product that should be readily available at a big chain store in case something gets forgotten or goes missing.
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on June 30, 2024, 11:44:52 AM
I’ve been looking into the iron will 125 S they get great reviews but are $$$
They are pricey. Scary sharp out of box. Fit and finish is second to none. Very tough good penetrating head. They are a solid choice.
Couple things to note, as education piece so no surprises. The steel has a high carbon content hence the edge development and the ability to sharpen by hand to that razor edge. If hunting in wet stuff make sure and dip them in a coating as they will develop pretty significant surface rust. Vaseline works great and is cheap or a good blade wax if getting picky. Have had good luck with MKC blade wax.
Strongly consider a high profile vane like a AAE max hunter, hybrid hunter, or blazer style vane with some offset or helical. They solids certainly seem to prefer the extra stability and as we know although the bow may enter the woods perfectly tuned, the stress as season wears on is not easy on equipment, add in shooter breakdown during periods of not shooting and high stress shots at the moment of truth and getting the max advantage from that arrow BH combo is huge.
Post by: dilleytech on July 02, 2024, 09:34:17 AM
Post by: mburrows on July 02, 2024, 01:52:15 PM
I carry 3 iron wills, 3 ti cons and 1 sevr when Im hunting in case things get western.
Post by: kodiak06 on July 08, 2024, 08:18:38 AM
Before that, thunderheads. This topic is like a ford-chevy topic, nothing but preference.
Post by: eastfork on July 30, 2024, 11:58:20 AM
Post by: Atlas1993 on July 30, 2024, 01:37:50 PM
Post by: geauxtigers on September 23, 2024, 02:19:25 PM
What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated? Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will). Thoughts?
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Post by: geauxtigers on September 23, 2024, 02:20:45 PM
I bought GrizzlyStick samurai 125s a couple years ago. Was really excited about them and just shot my first archery elk with them last week. Well placed broadside double lung shot, he only ran 88 yards, but almost ZERO blood trail and my blade got pretty beat up.I’ve tried to upload a photo with this post about 6 times…something’s not working today, have tried TapaTalk and straight to forum website
What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated? Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will). Thoughts?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on September 23, 2024, 03:44:35 PM
As for the head, did you hit anything on the backside of the elk? Depending on the energy maintained on the backside it can screw up blades pretty bad if it hits rocky duff or significant dry dirt. Not saying it didn't chip on the pass thru and elk bones are very hard, just something to take into consideration. My broadhead this year my blades were chipped but intact, I had hit 2 ribs on a pass thru and couldn't find my arrow initially. The next day I located it well past the bull and it had hit alder roots and rocky duff scuffing the blades significantly . I believe the bulk of the damage occured after the head had done its job. Due to the distance past the bull, the arrow was still moving under plenty of momentum after going thru him.
Post by: geauxtigers on September 23, 2024, 03:47:14 PM
Try resizing the photo with a screenshot if you haven't already done so. This seems to work for me.Thanks, I’ll try the photo again when I’m off a plane. Based on what I saw, I’m pretty sure the arrow stopped with broadhead sticking out one side and fletching hanging out the other (entry side), until the bull laid/fell down. Nothing especially hard where he laid down, just dirt and some downed logs but nothing rocky.
As for the head, did you hit anything on the backside of the elk? Depending on the energy maintained on the backside it can screw up blades pretty bad if it hits rocky duff or significant dry dirt. Not saying it didn't chip on the pass thru and elk bones are very hard, . My broadhead this year my blades were chipped but intact, I had hit 2 ribs on a pass thru and couldn't find my arrow initially. The next day I located it well past the bull and it had hit alder roots and rocky duff scuffing the blades significantly . I believe the bulk of the damage occured after the head had done its job. Due to the distance past the bull, the arrow was still moving under plenty of momentum after going thru him.
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Post by: blackveltbowhunter on September 23, 2024, 04:03:52 PM
Depending on where and how things ended up it's hard to say. The arrow could have had significant bone contact prior to punching through which can damage the best. If the arrow didn't come completely out it could have sustained damage while the bull was moving. Lots of scenarios.
It sounds like it did it's job for the most part. If it hit where you wanted, it got through 2 sides, and remained intact? Did the non chipped areas hold and edge? If so that's solid work. Getting more blood on the ground is a tough. 2 blade fixed heads IME just tend to not leave as much blood if no major artery is severed. I prefer 3 or 4 blade fixed or mechanical for this reason. Obviously the hit itself plays a significant role, after that how much of a hole gets cut is the next big factor. For the most part in theory you end up trading hole size for penetration.
Post by: MAVsled on September 23, 2024, 05:14:52 PM
5 years ago, switched to Iron Will, Solid-S, 125gr.
the amount of devastation into and out of an elk, between the Slick and IW is night and day. Iron Will performance is superior.
Post by: jasnt on September 23, 2024, 05:39:15 PM
Post by: geauxtigers on September 23, 2024, 08:37:53 PM
I’m using rf 200 single bevel sharpened to hair popping and then stropped. Penetrated 3ft of deer this year and died in view.What is that sharpener in the picture?
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Post by: jasnt on September 23, 2024, 09:36:34 PM
It’s a work sharpI’m using rf 200 single bevel sharpened to hair popping and then stropped. Penetrated 3ft of deer this year and died in view.What is that sharpener in the picture?
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Post by: geauxtigers on September 24, 2024, 02:50:58 AM
Post by: coachcw on September 25, 2024, 09:15:49 AM
Post by: Mtnwalker on September 25, 2024, 09:43:42 AM
I bought GrizzlyStick samurai 125s a couple years ago. Was really excited about them and just shot my first archery elk with them last week. Well placed broadside double lung shot, he only ran 88 yards, but almost ZERO blood trail and my blade got pretty beat up.
What do you experts think about my blade edges breaking/flaking into what now looks serrated? Doesn’t seem like it should have done this and I’m thinking about switching to something with harder steel (ie Iron Will). Thoughts?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Unless you're completely stuck on the whole single-bevel thing you might also look at D6 evo's. Bleeders available to help with blood trail and they are insanely sharp out of the box. I pounded a steel culvert at 50 yards with one and couldn't tell it apart from the brand new ones afterwards. So far very happy, but lots of good heads on the market these days.
Post by: Sakko300wsm on September 25, 2024, 12:59:23 PM
I've used shuttle T's for years and tested a ton of others in the past it held up the best going through a scapula bone . I will Say The Grim reapers make a nasty wound channel but require maintenance if they get dirty they will stick closed .
Another Shuttle T fan here - been shooting them for quite a few years with zero issues
Post by: andersonjk4 on September 25, 2024, 01:52:04 PM
I’ve been looking into the iron will 125 S they get great reviews but are $$$
I picked up archery back in 2020 and decided to go with Iron Will solids. I originally went with 125s but ended up trading a buddy for 100s because my arrows were a bit underspined for 125x with 50 grain inserts. Anyway, I got my first shot at a critter this year and the Iron Will performed extremely well. Shot was 35ish yards on a large spike elk. I hit a bit high and caught the edge of the scapula as well as some rib on the way in. Good double lung hit and the elk only went 30 yards before tipping over. The broadhead stopped against the offside hide which was a bit discouraging, but I also didn't spend as much time resharpening the broadhead as I should have after shooting it into foam several times. Broadhead was recovered from the animal and shows no signs of damage and will be resharped and put back in the quiver for late deer season. Very small sample size, but I was impressed with the amount of damage inflicted and can't complain when the animal tips over in-sight from a double lung hit.
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on September 25, 2024, 01:57:23 PM
Post by: kodiak06 on October 02, 2024, 09:08:02 PM
Post by: stickflngr on October 28, 2024, 10:02:30 AM
Post by: Carwash on December 03, 2024, 09:14:46 PM