Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: Angry Perch on August 07, 2024, 04:02:44 PM
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2012 F150 has had an intermittent no crank issue. New battery. Positive terminal was heavily corroded. Has been cleaned and new battery installed, but battery harness/ cable is on back order for a couple weeks. Was at Evergreen Ford and they didn't figure it out. Does not appear to be the Transmission Range Sensor (Neutral safety switch). Full power to everything, but nada when I turn the key. Let's hear your ideas.
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@ jackelope
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@ jackelope
Jackelope has probably blocked my number by now because I've been bugging him so much!
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Muffler bearings? :dunno:
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Tried for 15 minutes a couple hours ago, and nothing. Just walked out to the parking garage, gave it a Fonzie punch on the hood, and it fired right up. >:(
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You should be good if you just never turn it off
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You should be good if you just never turn it off
It's got a big gas tank!
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Getting a starter "click"?
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Getting a starter "click"?
No. Full power at dash, lights, etc. but nothing when I turn the key. Until I just randomly lay works, of course. Wondering if maybe something is heating up and has to cool down? I'm trying to keep track of all the details of timing to see if there is a pattern.
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Can't imagine it's related, but the truck now always thinks I'm on a steep grade.
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Based on this, I would bet that you have a lack of voltage issue. Low voltage at the right place will freak all sorts of systems out. I'd be checking voltage drops when trying to start. :twocents:
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Another place to check, sounds ridiculous, but all those fords have a chip in the key, programmed to the computer, we see it at work a handful of times where something goes haywire with the key, the computer does not recognize it, and you'll get a no crank no start issue. With your dash illuminating and all systems working normally, minus no crank no start.
I'd be suspect of voltage though, it can cause a wide array of problems.
I would also be checking all of your grounds for corrosion/tightness.
Starter could be starting to go as well.
Corrosion is a big issue
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To OP. 2013 F-150 here. I recently had something very similar to you. I have two vehicles, both experienced severe sulfating on the battery terminals this Spring. Same thing happened. I used a wire brush set on the cordless drill, and really scoured the inside of the terminal cables. I haven't had a problem since.
I also filed the lead terminal posts. Very carefully, did not breathe the lead dust.
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Another place to check, sounds ridiculous, but all those fords have a chip in the key, programmed to the computer, we see it at work a handful of times where something goes haywire with the key, the computer does not recognize it, and you'll get a no crank no start issue. With your dash illuminating and all systems working normally, minus no crank no start.
I'd be suspect of voltage though, it can cause a wide array of problems.
I would also be checking all of your grounds for corrosion/tightness.
Starter could be starting to go as well.
Corrosion is a big issue
Funny you mention the key. I had my wife bring her key to try. Nope. I also wonder about other things that might interrupt ignition. Alarm? The ignition itself?
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Geesh, sell it to a scrap yard and get a Chevy :chuckle: Couldn’t resist, I hope u get it figured out.
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Another place to check, sounds ridiculous, but all those fords have a chip in the key, programmed to the computer, we see it at work a handful of times where something goes haywire with the key, the computer does not recognize it, and you'll get a no crank no start issue. With your dash illuminating and all systems working normally, minus no crank no start.
I'd be suspect of voltage though, it can cause a wide array of problems.
I would also be checking all of your grounds for corrosion/tightness.
Starter could be starting to go as well.
Corrosion is a big issue
Funny you mention the key. I had my wife bring her key to try. Nope. I also wonder about other things that might interrupt ignition. Alarm? The ignition itself?
Not key/alarm/etc related.
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Crankshaft position sensor
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First check the voltage at your battery post! Then check the voltage outside the posts on the cables…should be the same.
Next check the voltage on the cable as someone turns the key.
Next check the voltage at the starter.
My guess is your starter is either not getting enough voltage…battery bad…or the starter is either bad or going bad.
If you have voltage at the starter, try giving it a dead blow tap or two while the key is cranking.
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Crankshaft position sensor
I believe they have a cam position sensor, not a crankshaft position sensor.
It would still crank.
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Crankshaft position sensor
I believe they have a cam position sensor, not a crankshaft position sensor.
It would still crank.
I’d hope it has both or we have a problem
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It's a starter solenoid. It's got a short or faulty voltage maybe. No response from the starter after turning the key with good batteries and connections points to starter solenoid.
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Recall what F O R D stands for….
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2012 F150 has had an intermittent no crank issue. New battery. Positive terminal was heavily corroded. Has been cleaned and new battery installed, but battery harness/ cable is on back order for a couple weeks. Was at Evergreen Ford and they didn't figure it out. Does not appear to be the Transmission Range Sensor (Neutral safety switch). Full power to everything, but nada when I turn the key. Let's hear your ideas.
I'm guessing you are on the right path by getting new battery cables. I had an intermittent problem on my s-10 and the corrosion had worked its way into the strands of the positive cable. Got new battery cables and my problem went away.
Good luck and don't forget to update the thread when it does get fixed....or in a fit of frustrated rage you send it over a cliff.
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Check your main ground straps. A few articles out there. A couple that are notorious for deteriorating or bad connections to frame/body. I'll try and find the article.
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Painful, but I'm assuming you have a circuit diagram and a meter. I'd start at the starter and work my way backwards.
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Lot's of stuff to look at after the weekend. Unfortunately have to leave it home so no crabbing. :'(
This is the battery cable (harness) that is on backorder. We're not in 1986 anymore, Toto. :chuckle:
Can I run a jumper from the positive terminal to the positive on the starter in order to weed out that piece as the issue?
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if you get click with starter (or bypass crank it) eliminate that issue.. if its not starter probably something in immobilizer ckt. probably a busted wire there...
welcome to ford anti theft !
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Yes. You can "hot wire" the starter directly from the battery. Things will happen quickly, so make sure all your personal bits are out of harms way.
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Yes. You can "hot wire" the starter directly from the battery. Things will happen quickly, so make sure all your personal bits are out of harms way.
I think positive is constant power, no?
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Hey Perch, can you post a pic of that battery cable? I'm curious to see it.
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Battery has been replaced since pictures.
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:o Uh, how bout those cables? I'd bet a case of cheerleader beer, that's the issue.
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All those connections need some work and the right fuse link looks burnt/blown (maybe the picture). You should replace that positive battery terminal connector, the second side view doesn't show much left.
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...regarding jumping the starter. If you are not comfortable with this sort of thing I'd wait till your new cable arrives and go from there. If you do go ahead with jumping your starter, realize you need a big wire/cable to do it with as you are effectively shorting your battery to ground. Think hundreds of cold cranking amps! For kicks, you could jump your starter solenoid with a 12 Ga wire to see if it clicks.
Like you and other's haves stated, your old cables look pretty suspect. Personally, I'd wait and start there.
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:o Uh, how bout those cables? I'd bet a case of cheerleader beer, that's the issue.
Unfortunately the cable (harness) is two weeks out minimum. Jackelope mentioned cutting a bit off and redoing these connections to see if it clears things up temporarily, which I plan to do. I've had next to zero time to work on this. Just weird that without moving, touching anything, it will all of a sudden work.
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It's called Magic (electricity). It's all about resistance and current. Bad connections and deteriorated wire/fittings will impact both. Based off those pictures you should check your body to frame grounds also. :tup:
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I hate electrical stuff. You could check eBay but that’s a gamble.
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Possible causes: starter solenoid.......nasty looking cables/connections.......don't forget any ground wires.
Instant fix: give the battery poles a slight whack with a hammer.
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I would start by going after it with a wire wheel in the drill. You might luck out and not have a problem with the terminal to conductor, only the terminal and battery post. It's often worse there because you have a connection between dissimilar metals (copper, lead and whatever the bolts are made out of). The copper to copper connection of the terminal to conductor tends to be less problematic.
You could also make your own new one, the tools and parts are widely available and relatively inexpensive compared with factory cables sometimes.
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I would start by going after it with a wire wheel in the drill. You might luck out and not have a problem with the terminal to conductor, only the terminal and battery post. It's often worse there because you have a connection between dissimilar metals (copper, lead and whatever the bolts are made out of). The copper to copper connection of the terminal to conductor tends to be less problematic.
You could also make your own new one, the tools and parts are widely available and relatively inexpensive compared with factory cables sometimes.
Plan is to pull it apart the terminal tonight, wire wheel/ sand everything, and cut off and rebuild the cable ends if there is enough slack. Of course the beauty of working an intermittent problem is that you can never be 100% sure you fixed it! If you've never had the joy of being the guy that needs to be pushed off a ferry on a Friday afternoon, it's a real lesson in humility.
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I found a terminal that I should have in my hands tomorrow morning. It has a bolt on clamp to replace the factory crimp. I also got 250A and 125A fuses to replace the factory ones if necessary. Am I on the right track? I will still have the full harness replaced once I can get it.
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I think that is your best option for being up and running this weekend.
Let us know how it goes.
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Just tracked this down and should have it tonight.
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I would also use some type of Dielectric grease or spray. Permatex or CRC makes some good products. Also check and see if you have corrosion under the wire jacket going down the wire.
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Not too bad fur parts from O'Reill(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240809/5bb8e3111a9fcecd4eafda40f96e6596.jpg)
y and Auto Zone.
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Looks good. Hope it got you up and running. The original stuff was pretty ugly!
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Didn't work. Fired right up, drove it around for ten minutes and shut it off. No crank again. Left it alone for five minutes and it fired up. Drove it around the block again and it won't start.
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Starters can be heat sensitive. Hmmm? Intermitents are challenging.
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get on the old YouTube and search intermitent no start or something like that. South Main auto probably has a video for just that issue.
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Find the camshaft position sensor and put an ohm meter on it when cold.. then run til warm and check again.. the residence should not change much at all.. if it does that may be your issue.
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Relay?
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:dunno:
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:yeah:
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:dunno:
Ha! I listened brother. Just started from most to least comfortable!
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Get under there with a meter when it is acting up and find out where you've lost voltage/signal.
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Didn't have my multimeter at home. Will grab it this weekend and start playing. Need to get underneath and look at the starter first.
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I thought we had this figured & you just weren’t going to ever turn it off again? Just joking- I hope you get it figured out, intermittent problems are tough.
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Had a similar issue a few years ago with my '08. It would just randomly start or not start. I ended up finding a random bad fuse. I wish I remember which fuse it was but I remember it being a random head scratcher. I found it on youtube.
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Didn't have my multimeter at home. Will grab it this weekend and start playing. Need to get underneath and look at the starter first.
That's why I have 3, one at home one in my tool bag and another just because.
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Had a similar issue a few years ago with my '08. It would just randomly start or not start. I ended up finding a random bad fuse. I wish I remember which fuse it was but I remember it being a random head scratcher. I found it on youtube.
I believe there is a fuse/relay for the starter solenoid. That's the unit that sticks off the side of your starter. His corrosion issue could have been causing a heat issue due to bad voltage etc. Heat can melt the insulation on the wires of a starter solenoid or cause an electrical short. Judging by what his battery tops look like in the pics he is having a voltage issue due to heat and corrosion damage. My old 1999 7.3l is having the same problem right now. And it has the dual battery setup with the big lead block on the passenger side battery. Well inside the insulation I can see that the wire is green. That's a problem every time you see it inside wire insulation.
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https://www.carparts.com/blog/what-happens-when-the-starter-solenoid-goes-bad/
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Just be glad you don't own a vehicle with this BS under it! Remove the engine or tranny to replace the starter? :dunno: :o
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Just throw all the parts at it till she’s fixed. That or don’t ever turn it off ever again. You keep bragging about how big your fuel tank is.
Starter solenoid is part of the starter. Pull the starter, take it to Napa and have them bench test it except it’ll bench test good unless it happens to be the problem and it also happens to act up while it’s there getting bench tested.
Get your friend to try and start it while it’s acting up and you can have the multimeter at the starter to see if she’s getting power. Usually…. Like 999/1000 when a starter is failing it’ll make a single click.
Is there power to the ignition switch when it’s acting up? Through the switch?
The battery stuff needed to be replaced irregardless. Good that you got that out of the way and eliminated that as a potential cause.
Did you remember to just wiggle stuff?
Should I cancel the part order?
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Just throw all the parts at it till she’s fixed. That or don’t ever turn it off ever again. You keep bragging about how big your fuel tank is.
Starter solenoid is part of the starter. Pull the starter, take it to Napa and have them bench test it except it’ll bench test good unless it happens to be the problem and it also happens to act up while it’s there getting bench tested.
Get your friend to try and start it while it’s acting up and you can have the multimeter at the starter to see if she’s getting power. Usually…. Like 999/1000 when a starter is failing it’ll make a single click.
Is there power to the ignition switch when it’s acting up? Through the switch?
The battery stuff needed to be replaced irregardless. Good that you got that out of the way and eliminated that as a potential cause.
Did you remember to just wiggle stuff?
Should I cancel the part order?
I have not had time to do anything. Was gone for a long weekend. Will do a rudimentary check for obvious things underneath, but need to get it in a shop.
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Just throw all the parts at it till she’s fixed.
Sort of did that once with a 1974 Datsun 710. Still fairly new but would sputter, shake, rattle and roll. Did all the tune up stuff, eliminating possible causes.......no cure. Finally, decided to check the fuel filter (plastic, see thru) and there it was.......extremely thin flat little flakes clogging it up intermittently as fuel flowed through.
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Truck is in the shop. Will report back!
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Truck is in the shop. Will report back!
The vehicle betrayed you.......abandon it in the shop.
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Truck is in the shop. Will report back!
The vehicle betrayed you.......abandon it in the shop.
I'll focus on the 12 years that it's been a rock solid rig. We've still got a lot of miles to ride together.
Although Tiger really likes the back-up ride!
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Nice blonde phase black bear.
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Just be glad you don't own a vehicle with this BS under it! Remove the engine or tranny to replace the starter? :dunno: :o
What is that in? :DOH:
I have one that requires engine removal as well :bash:
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Just be glad you don't own a vehicle with this BS under it! Remove the engine or tranny to replace the starter? :dunno: :o
What is that in? :DOH:
I have one that requires engine removal as well :bash:
The marvels of modern engineering!
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Truck is in the shop. Will report back!
The vehicle betrayed you.......abandon it in the shop.
I'll focus on the 12 years that it's been a rock solid rig. We've still got a lot of miles to ride together.
Although Tiger really likes the back-up ride!
Uhhh...I like the backup ride too!
Sweet doggy pic. Feel free to post any other pics of the old chevy...or the dog in action. :)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240815/b20b0bbc3b654a4024a52a87bdc195c6.jpg)
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Just be glad you don't own a vehicle with this BS under it! Remove the engine or tranny to replace the starter? :dunno: :o
What is that in? :DOH:
I have one that requires engine removal as well :bash:
I'm not really sure, a mechanic buddy sent me it
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Just be glad you don't own a vehicle with this BS under it! Remove the engine or tranny to replace the starter? :dunno: :o
What is that in? :DOH:
I have one that requires engine removal as well :bash:
I'm not really sure, a mechanic buddy sent me it
You need to ask him and report back, so none of us ever buy one! :chuckle:
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Don't worry, we can't afford it. I guess it's a Porsche Panamera!
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My boss had a 911 and the battery died. Had to hook it up through a jumper port just to open the door!
BTW LDennis, you nailed it with the starter on the F-150.
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:tup:
Fords have some weird and stupid wiring issues sometimes. I had a problem with my Excursion where it was just firing up the starter while I i was running down the road and sometimes while it was parked. It burned up the first one flying down the highway when it engaged and then I got a new one and was working on it with the terminals disconnected and I just pushed the terminals back on and fired it up to test it out and it ran just fine. Stood there talking to my dad for 5 minutes while it ran and the new starter suddenly engaged again! I quickly pulled the wire off the battery while he shut it off before it burned up the new one. I went through the whole system and replaced everything but the cables. On my other Ford pickup I kept having the battery drain down at night. We'll the third brake light in the center rear of your cab or hatchback is oddly connected to somewhere things with voltage issues and draw issues and short issues and long issues and and and and.... I looked outside one night and my pickup brake lights came on and off after a few seconds. I looked around the room and realized my wife was in the kitchen so I ran through the kitchen with a pistol and my wife is like "Whats going on!" As I yell someone's stealing the pickup! I ran outside and across my gravel lot as the lights came on again and I just threw the pistol up into the window only to realize, nobody was there.... what the eff!? Apparently if your third brake light gets wet it will short and cause your brake lights to come on and somehow it's tied to other wiring somewhere as I even pulled the fuse and they STILL kept coming on and off. I found out my third brake light had a crack and was full of water. How stupid, remember back when vehicles had like 5 major parts... just 5 or so, no stupid sensors and giant wire bundles. Just a few wires to run 12 volts to stuff and that's it. I was born in 1984 but I still worked on stuff with my dad and it was so simple. :dunno:
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Don't worry, we can't afford it. I guess it's a Porsche Panamera!
:chuckle:
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Don't worry, we can't afford it. I guess it's a Porsche Panamera!
:chuckle:
I actually see plenty of them going for pretty cheap. :dunno: