Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Power Equipment & RV => Topic started by: Ghost Hunter on February 09, 2025, 05:54:34 PM
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Can't use the canoe by myself anymore. Will post it later. Hauled home a neglected 1983 14' Valco and trailer package. Needs taken down to bare metal and built back. Looking for ideas and info. Best aluminum cleaner/polish? Weight rating sticker is missing. Anyone got something similar they can share info? Lake uses mainly but might try the river if I get comfortable with it. Should easily handle a 20hp tiller, is that too big for trolling? I got to be able to run for cover when conditions warrant it. Will require transom repair for starters. I'm set for electric trolling motor. Keeping it to bare essentials, padded swivel seat for comfort, no electronics. Just old school fishing.
Don't tell me to scrap it, I'll figure that out for myself. Been 50 years since my last boat 'project'. :chuckle:
GH
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I redid an old 12ft aluminum
It was rough shape
Elbow grease, RTV rustoleum paint and new plywood flooring
White trim edge was from plastic lattice @ Home Depot
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I picked up.a 14 smoker and am in the same process as you. I stripped the boat down to bare metal with an orbital sander and am in the process of fixing a few rivets that were leaking. I removed the transom plywood (rotten) and replaced it with a marine graded plywood. I was lucky and was able to use the old transom piece as a template. As soon as the weather gets a little better I'll acid wash the hull and repaint it with self etching primer and then shoot color over that. Pics are where I started vs where I'm currently at. I also have 2 9.9 mercs that I plan on using one of and eventually selling the other. 1 is an older 2 stroke (light) and one is an older 4 stroke with electric start and tilt (heavy). Not sure which one I'm gonna go with yet.
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That's looking good. I have all that to do. Need to cut a pattern for the transom. Considering a COOSA Bluewater product if I can find it on west side. Buy once, cry once. Appears the transom was a weak point on the Valco boats, but I like the overall design. I need to get pictures before I start. All the rotten wood and leaves are probably frozen in the bottom of it this morning. Lady said they picked it up as a project and then her husband died. Looks like it's been outside and not used for 20 years.
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The beauty of aluminum, they can sit for a long time and be no worse for the wear. I'm hoping to get back on my project after winter so I can fish this spring.
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I like glovit for sealing the inside of riveted boats, prep with a pressure washer then brilo pads on the angle grinder. For the transom I prefer to stay away from wood and use a composite like coosa board with an 1/8 aluminum 5052 plate backer. Seal all the edges with Sikaflex and self sealing SS washers with SS hardware.
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Keep it coming. I haven't even started yet and I'm learning a lot on what's out there to work with. I did find a good deal on Coosa board and have a 1" sheet being delivered to my door. Two days ago, I didn't know it existed.
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I like shopping local, but for SS hardware you can't beat Amazon. Even with my commercial account/tax exempt at Tacoma Screw, Amazon still had the best pricing for SS hardware and bucking rivets. If the Transom is pitted or looking like cheese cloth then prep it good and use a good 2-part epoxy to fill the holes in, or re-skin it with rivets and epoxy. I used Pettit Flex-Poxy to re-skin a transom, it worked well but was damn expensive. If I was doing it over again I'd buy West Systems G-Flex.
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My last boat was a 14 foot Valco just like yours that we had in the family for 30+ years and we absolutely abused that poor boat. I personally sunk it twice in the potholes. The transom was the weak point from years of gravel roads. We put a piece of angle iron on there and it still had flex to it from the weight of the motor. I ran it with a 15 horse with no transom saver and if I could restart from the beginning I would use a transom saver. The other thing that went wrong was the seats rotted out. When I stepped on one I heard a crack like a tree about to fall over and saw the wood sag in. I ran that boat through multiple harrowing storms in deep water and high stakes. During those high wave times the thing that really bothered me was how little freeboard there is in the stern of the boat. One good wave to the rear can add enough water to cause problems and even sink you. If you pointed it into the waves and kept it under power there was never an issue. I dont recommend adding tons of weight because it lowers your freeboard even more. With a 15 hp I was able to run about 18mph by myself. I'd love to see some pictures.
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I picked up.a 14 smoker and am in the same process as you. I stripped the boat down to bare metal with an orbital sander and am in the process of fixing a few rivets that were leaking. I removed the transom plywood (rotten) and replaced it with a marine graded plywood. I was lucky and was able to use the old transom piece as a template. As soon as the weather gets a little better I'll acid wash the hull and repaint it with self etching primer and then shoot color over that. Pics are where I started vs where I'm currently at. I also have 2 9.9 mercs that I plan on using one of and eventually selling the other. 1 is an older 2 stroke (light) and one is an older 4 stroke with electric start and tilt (heavy). Not sure which one I'm gonna go with yet.
Where did you get that? Thats my old boat from when I was a kid
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I picked up.a 14 smoker and am in the same process as you. I stripped the boat down to bare metal with an orbital sander and am in the process of fixing a few rivets that were leaking. I removed the transom plywood (rotten) and replaced it with a marine graded plywood. I was lucky and was able to use the old transom piece as a template. As soon as the weather gets a little better I'll acid wash the hull and repaint it with self etching primer and then shoot color over that. Pics are where I started vs where I'm currently at. I also have 2 9.9 mercs that I plan on using one of and eventually selling the other. 1 is an older 2 stroke (light) and one is an older 4 stroke with electric start and tilt (heavy). Not sure which one I'm gonna go with yet.
Where did you get that? Thats my old boat from when I was a kid
No kidding? How cool is that?
It was headed for the scrap yard and I intercepted it.
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I cant be sure but man it looks like it lol
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I’ve rebuilt three aluminum boats with my Dad. Replaced transoms, floors, seats, and rebuilt all the trailers. It was a lot of work and time, but super fun. We only messed with the all welded boats, because of how notorious rivets leak. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250211/18593c106be3b11b697f25d3442a9ef2.jpg)
Wish I still had the 15’ Gregor. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250211/e2f2fc398ded00fde9e89a8d7b4f2ba8.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250211/01b440b53e99bbde80a1b13554480396.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250211/539a342f96eebdba34a5d98718eaad21.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250211/8a15680dd5f4125da76dbbe36f66d886.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250211/1c4b1d2b47fb36aa23e520e0d4ccf4d6.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Valcos cut through the water great. I have a 12ft that runs a 7hp with 1 person and a dog like a dream. After cleaning with the pressure washer check for leeks in rivets. Replace and rein force wherever you can. Consider gator glide or something similar on the bottom for sealing and extra effeciency.
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It has a bottom coating that needs sanded off. Gator glide is a good idea. Coosa board delivery this morning. Not warm enough to dig the frozen leaves out of it but I did get rusty fasteners cut and punched out, rotten seat boards removed, braces, cleats, and other misc. stripped off yesterday. Transom is going to take a little time to beat dings and dents out. Once I get it cleaned up and get a better look, I can start gathering supplies. My biggest holdup will be working in a shop that isn't heated.
Bowman, I like that bow rail. Might look into fabricating one.
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I bought a propane tornado heater last winter for my garage while doing my rebuild. I could get the temp up to 60-70 in an hour, it made the epoxy kick for the drying period. Some of those sealants/epoxies won’t cure in these cold temps and I didn’t have the patience to wait for warmer weather.
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I don't think SS and aluminum like each other when they make contact in salt water so maybe use neoprene or other type of washers or gaskets so the two aren't touching.
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I don't think SS and aluminum like each other when they make contact in salt water so maybe use neoprene or other type of washers or gaskets so the two are touching.
Stainless Steel EPDM bonded sealing neoprene rubber washers is what I used for dissimilar metal corrosion. Also coat the bolts with tef-gel or silicone.
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Oops, just re read my post. Should be "so the two aren't touching". :bash:
Fixed it.
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Because I peeked at a Lund Tiller model, I now have some modifications on seating to do. Might as well make it so it works for me.
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Got slowed down a little with 'other matters'. Find myself with some of the necessary supplies on hand now to plug hole and start assembly. Sold the canoe today, that should bankroll most but a motor. Time to get back after it.
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Got slowed down a little with 'other matters'. Find myself with some of the necessary supplies on hand now to plug hole and start assembly. Sold the canoe today, that should bankroll most but a motor. Time to get back after it.
In those old Valcos the seats look like theyre supporting the structural integrity of the sidewalls of the boat. If youre going to cut one down, you might have to support it.
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Got slowed down a little with 'other matters'. Find myself with some of the necessary supplies on hand now to plug hole and start assembly. Sold the canoe today, that should bankroll most but a motor. Time to get back after it.
In those old Valcos the seats look like theyre supporting the structural integrity of the sidewalls of the boat. If youre going to cut one down, you might have to support it.
I cut center section out of rear seat, leaving enough reinforcement. It will also be reinforced with 1" coosa board seat extending to transom on both sides. Transom will be 1" Coosa board sandwiched between 3/16" and 1/8" aluminum. Will allow swivel seat at the tiller.
