Post by: Rob on June 09, 2025, 08:05:20 AM
• DR Power Field and Brush Mower Pro 26 14.5 HP
• Brush Mower Model: AT45026BEN
• Engine Model: 31R6770017G1 (Model 310000 in the manual)
Situation
I have a DR Mower Pro26. It has mostly sat for the last year - inside in the garage. Oil is clean and fresh, Battery was on a trickle charger over the winter and shows charged ~12 volts.
I went to use it a week ago. It cranked fine and started right up. I had it in first gear and mowed about a 20 foot section. I attempted to shift into reverse to back up and the cable used to downshift broke. the engine remained on but I was unable to downshift out of first. I shut down the engine and pushed it back to the garage.
I jerry-rigged a temp fix for the cable while I awaited the replacement cable. I am now able to move thru all the gears.
Problem
Now to Problem. When I turn the key, nothing happens. no buzzing, no attempt to start, nothing.
Troubleshooting so far
1. I went back to the manual and re-read the starting instructions. PTO must be disengaged to start, and the gear must be in neutral. There is also a "plug" for the neutral disengage switch below the handlebars on the lower part of the engine area that appears to be solidly plugged in.
- I verified that all of these seemed fine. When in gear it is very difficult to roll the mower by pushing, and when it is in neutral, it of course rolls well. So I am positive the engine is in neutral when I am trying to start it
2. Verified the battery connections are secure and the battery has at least 12 volts. All check out
3. Verified the PTO was disengaged
4. Verified the switch for the key has all the connections still securely attached.
5. For what it is worth, I tried cranking with and without the "operator present" handle engaged with no effect (even though this is irrelevant to the normal starting procedure).
So... My guess is, that because it was cranking, starting, running fine, and then, after a clean shut down following a shifting problem, it stopped working, my theory is that some kind of safety switch has disabled the ability to crank. Likely either something is telling the machine it is still in gear, or the PTO is on when it is not. I have exhausted the checks I can think of. I will be removing some of the cowlings and such to replace that cable so perhaps something will pop out to me when I do that.
Anyone have this issue before or have ideas to check?
Post by: Woodchuck on June 09, 2025, 08:28:42 AM
Post by: Encore 280 on June 09, 2025, 08:37:39 AM
Post by: EnglishSetter on June 09, 2025, 09:20:23 AM
I was getting no voltage to the solenoid (and hence none to the starter). With a jumper battery to the starter and solenoid it cranked fine, but no run. Checked fuse, looked good. Removed switch and though i don't have a schematic, the wire colors give a clue and it checked out with ohm meter. Verified neutral and confirmed with ohm meter.
So reviewing the 12v path, I suspected the fuse once again. Removed it, visually good. Ohm'd it and it failed. Rummaged around, found a fuse, installed and voila. I think the first time I've had a glass fuse fail with no witness.
So I'd start with the fuse (and ohm it). I'd ohm the neutral switch. I'd test solenoid and starter with jumper battery. Pretty much that order. Stop when it cranks/runs. ;)
Post by: Rob on June 09, 2025, 10:19:24 AM
I did visually check the fuse (forgot to mention that). But I will ohm it as well. Great thought.
It just seems so weird that it was working, the cable broke, and once I was able to move it into neutral, it no longer cranks. It was about 3-4 days between the issue and my jerry rigging the cable, but it just sat in the garage between those two events.
I did pull it about 40 yards to the garage in gear with the power off after it failed. I can't see how that would have caused any issues other than my back.
Post by: EnglishSetter on June 09, 2025, 11:05:03 AM
Not sure how the PTO/electric clutch interrupt works. Similar I'm sure.
Post by: Rob on June 16, 2025, 04:00:06 PM
I replaced the cable that broke - that was easier than I thought. I verified I could shift through all the gears with it. Still would not start (not surprised)
Next, I bypassed the neutral safety switch. Would not crank (remember, it was not even trying to crank, no whirring, no popping, nothing.)
I decided to bypass the battery and jump it off of another battery. Started right up.
So, it looks like the battery is totally dead. This is odd to me as it strongly cranked without issue last time that I started it and the shift cable broke - just about a week or so ago.
Post by: Boss .300 winmag on June 16, 2025, 05:03:05 PM
Post by: Rob on June 17, 2025, 06:21:55 AM
Post by: Sandberm on June 17, 2025, 09:58:05 AM
Batteries can be that way, one minute good the next not.🤯I've had this happen at least 3 times on 3 different vehicles in the past 15 or so years. Not even a hint that there is a problem and then dead.
One of them, on my 95 F250, I believe would not even accept a charge from the alternator after jump starting it. I thought i could smell wires getting hot and a weird relay clicking in the dash, engine would not idle down, like the alternator was trying to send a charge somewhere. Out of fear of messing something up I shut the truck off and left it where it died. Came back the next day and installed a new battery and all was good.
Glad the op was able figure and fix his mower by himself.
Post by: EnglishSetter on June 17, 2025, 02:31:19 PM
I see a DVOM in your future.
Still possible there's an intermittent connection somewhere.
Post by: Rob on June 18, 2025, 06:09:06 AM
I need to draft some notes to reference!
Post by: Alchase on June 21, 2025, 09:58:53 AM
That is some awesome engineered obsolescence :hello:
:chuckle:
Post by: jackelope on June 21, 2025, 11:12:40 AM