Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: Screaminreelz on June 30, 2009, 07:55:12 PM
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I'm working on refinishing a Remington 760 30.06 pump and I was wondering how the best way to approach the foregrip would be. What is the best method of getting in between those small grooves?
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Fold your sandpaper several times and sand the grooves ;) Mark
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Use whatever stripper you prefer, I like citristrip, and let it soak, use a nylon or brass brush to clean it out. This is how I do checkering and it works great. Takes some time but will not damage like sanding.
When finished put it in a dishwasher and it will not only clean it but it will steam it out for a finish sanding.
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Use whatever stripper you prefer, I like citristrip, and let it soak, use a nylon or brass brush to clean it out. This is how I do checkering and it works great. Takes some time but will not damage like sanding.
When finished put it in a dishwasher and it will not only clean it but it will steam it out for a finish sanding.
This is exactly how I did one of my stocks and it came out really good.
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Use whatever stripper you prefer, I like citristrip, and let it soak, use a nylon or brass brush to clean it out. This is how I do checkering and it works great. Takes some time but will not damage like sanding.
When finished put it in a dishwasher and it will not only clean it but it will steam it out for a finish sanding.
I agree with Mookie, with the exception that I personally would not place it in a dishwasher. I would scrub it with some kind of solvent and the nylon brush to remove the stripper from between the grooves. :twocents:
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Not sure how sanding would damage the grooves if you take your time :dunno: I guess I am old school as I have workd with wood for 30 plus years and dont care for the mess and toxins involved with chemical strippers. Also I tend to chnge the shape of a stock just a tad so it is one of a kind. :twocents: Mark
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citristrip is an environmentally safe paint stripper.
A dishwasher will not hurt the wood, unless it has been glued, and then it will only slightly loosen the glue, and then only if it is a water based and has not been properly set. It is much faster and easier than using a nylon brush, because no matter how hard you try there is still some left.
Dozens of stocks in and never any damage from the dishwasher.
I use sandpaper only to shape and final sanding.
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Easy off oven cleaner is a fantastic way to remove old finish, especially for oil finish stocks. I am against using real aggresive bristle brushes, as it damages wood fibers. I normally strip a stock using the easy off or bleach+mr clean+ hot water. Hot water helps raises dents and small scratches. Then over a stove burner I dry the stock then whisker it down with 0000 steel wool.
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If I use the citristrip how long should I soak, couple of days or will it be obvious that the finish is coming lose? Will this also work for the stock to? I like the sanding style for the stock and have done so on my 7mm Mauser and it came out looking great. The wood on this .06 I believe is walnut so I'm thinking a natural stain to bring out the grain.
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citristrip does not take long, I usually let it sit an hour or so. IT is is a gelatinous state, think hair gel, so you don't have to clean it off every time. After I use it and let it sit I put on some heavy rubber gloves and steel wool the whole thing, with the stripper still on.
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Pretty walnut doesn't need any stain in my opinion. Just good old sea-fin teak oil. It's used on yachts and stuff and is super for hardness and ease of touch up.
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you think a good poly would be enough or is there something more durable?
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They are all poly or similar. I like tung oil but find it much to needy and picky. I use truoil thinned down to 50%. Much easier to use and is less finicky.
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I refinished a 1960 carbine pump with the same "corncob" front end (as we call it in Minnesota). I sanded the wood and only cleaned the grooves with nylon bristled brushes and soap and water then solvent then soap and water again. this left the grooves alittle darker which was a neat effect. I stained it then put 10 coats of Tru oil on it with sanding after the first 4 coats ( wet sand with 1500 grit). then resand efter every 2-3 coats until desired effect. All coats were put on with my finger srpeadin the tru oil. I will then use 0000 steel wool to get the degree of shiny to where I want it. then either use stock sheen or most likely TR3 car polish on the stock which protects it even more. This finish is real durable and gets lots of compliments too. This particular gun was left pretty shiny. Other 760's I hase done a more satin look. The Rem pump is my favorite gun. Good luck
