Post by: Bean Counter on August 29, 2009, 01:23:07 PM
Does anybody who has a 5K oil change interval use synthetic and go 7.5K with each change of the oil & filter? That way, over a 15,000 period, I could change the oil only twice and not three times. With the price of synthetic oil over synth blend, it seems as though either option would cost about the same, but I hear that synth brings many more years and miles to the life of an engine.
Then there's the option of going with a super long-life oil such as Amsoil for a full 15,000, and changing the filter (but not the oil) every 5K... :dunno:
Post by: Sportfury on August 29, 2009, 03:05:32 PM
Post by: lazydrifter on August 29, 2009, 03:31:34 PM
Post by: jackelope on August 29, 2009, 09:34:02 PM
The dealer told me to carefully consider this option. They said that once you go full synthetic that it does something to the seals in your engine and you cannot go back. .
this is b.s. it is best to wait till 10k miles or more on a new engine IMO if you want to switch to synthetic, but there is no reason you can't switch back.
disclaimer:
if you ask 10 different people their opinions on synthetic oils or oils in general, you will likely get at least 8 different answers.
Post by: BLKBEARKLR on August 29, 2009, 09:45:17 PM
I would have thought it would be at least 12
Post by: Bob33 on August 29, 2009, 10:00:17 PM
Post by: Bean Counter on August 30, 2009, 02:39:40 AM
Bean this might be a good question to ask over at TundraSolutions.com on their forums.
A forum... just for us Tundra owners??? :yike: All I can say is :rockin: :rockin: :rockin:
I'm sorry life as a F-150 owner isn't as cool as an owner of a Tundra :chuckle: :stirthepot:
Post by: Sportfury on August 30, 2009, 02:50:00 AM
A forum... just for us Tundra owners??? :yike: All I can say is :rockin: :rockin: :rockin:
I'm sorry life as a F-150 owner isn't as cool as an owner of a Tundra :chuckle: :stirthepot:
Same goes for owning a dodge :yike: :stirthepot: :chuckle:
Post by: mazama on August 30, 2009, 07:11:06 PM
Post by: elkaholic123 on August 30, 2009, 07:47:01 PM
Post by: Rick on August 30, 2009, 07:53:11 PM
Todays oils will easily run 5000 without issue.
Unless you live in extreme heat or cold,synthetics aren't worth the added expense.
With 5000 mile changes with conventional oil,your engine will still be running like a top 150,000 miles from now.
Post by: Bean Counter on August 31, 2009, 02:10:14 AM
I'd really like to see my truck on the road at 300,000 miles. Whether its with me driving it or not.
I moved down to the Sonoran Desert five months ago and like a :con:-head didn't immediately switch to synthetic oil but made my poor engine endure the 110-115 degree heat with Mobil 5000 (which is either a synthetic blend or a conventional with synthetic additives). I'm finally switching as the fall months approach but for next summer it should be attuned to and get the benefit from the synthetic.
Post by: Rick on August 31, 2009, 09:11:08 AM
Rick,
I'd really like to see my truck on the road at 300,000 miles. Whether its with me driving it or not.
I moved down to the Sonoran Desert five months ago and like a :con:-head didn't immediately switch to synthetic oil but made my poor engine endure the 110-115 degree heat with Mobil 5000 (which is either a synthetic blend or a conventional with synthetic additives). I'm finally switching as the fall months approach but for next summer it should be attuned to and get the benefit from the synthetic.
In your situation the synthetics make sense. If you're going pay more for a synthetic,make sure you get a group IV and not a group III. Group III is basically highly refined conventional,where Group IV is a true synthetic.
I'd look at Mobil 1,Royal Purple,Redline,Amsoil,and Schaeffer. Mobil 1 being the easiest to find.
Castrol,Pennzoil,Havoline,Valvoline,Chevron and most other synthetics fall under the group III catagory.
Post by: huntnphool on August 31, 2009, 09:26:32 AM
Quote
I'd look at Mobil 1,Royal Purple,Redline,Amsoil,and Schaeffer. Mobil 1 being the easiest to find.
I've been using Redline in a couple of my cars with pretty good results. My wifes car uses Mobil 1 and the dealership changes it every 12,000 miles, well beyond convention. Delo 400 for my Powerstrokes so for me its synthetics all the way around. :dunno:
Post by: TEX-X on January 19, 2010, 09:10:09 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on January 19, 2010, 09:24:23 AM
Post by: TEX-X on January 19, 2010, 09:34:36 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on January 19, 2010, 09:43:04 AM
Post by: Buckmark on January 19, 2010, 09:46:18 AM
the way you get around the leaking seals when you run sythetic is to run a thicker oil.... say from a 5W-30 change to a 20W-50... that'll usually curb it for a while... (i'm not talking about a worn engine that has blow by.... but an engine that has leaking valve seal for instance...)Oh yes please do this, i love engine replacment jobs, good money maker
DO NOT PUT 20-50 in an engine that calls for 5w whatever oil.
On the syn, blend, conv argument, how many on here have ever had a true oil related engine failure? im talking you were religious about your service, change oil and filter every 3k or so, made sure the level was full all the time and used the same brand and weight of oil and your engine failed due to the oil you used??
Lack of oil or lack of maintinance accounts for almost every failure i see, i see quite a few.
I'm not sold on syn or blends, clean oil and full of oil is as important or more important, how many of you are really going to keep yur vehicle long enough to know if it really is better? Do you have 2 vehicles that are the same to have a comparable? I have had lots of engines in lots of stuff (cars, trucks, tractors, lawnmowers, etc etc) and never had failures that were soley caused by the oil i was using, have had trucks with over 300k that used conventional oil its whole life that ran fine.
My dad has a 1970 nova that was my great uncles bought new in 1970, original engine still runs great and who knows what brand or weight of oils have been used.
Post by: Woodchuck on January 19, 2010, 09:51:19 AM
Post by: TEX-X on January 19, 2010, 10:07:21 AM
DO NOT PUT 20-50 in an engine that calls for 5w whatever oil."
sounds like a generic answer for a stealership trying to get out of warranty work is what that sounds like to me.... always trying to blame an engine failure on something the customer did instead of an actual engine failure... I'm not saying that customers don't screw up and shell motors.... they do.... but that is not the case 100 percent of the time.... the man was asking for personal opinions so i gave it to him... I run a smaller auto repair shop i'm my own boss and i'm not saying i know everything in the world but hey i know my way around a few motors.... I'm pretty sure that the old 1970 nova that you speak of has at one time or the other used a heavier weight oil to curb leaking valve seals... I have a 454 chevrolet i built that now now has about 35,000 miles on it... i've ran 20w-50 in it its whole life... the tolerances on bearing clearances and all that garb were alot looser in the 70's than they are today... if you don't think that people have engine failures as a result of *censored*ty oil you are sadly mistaken....sludge gunk and grime that cheaper oils cannot clean out as readily will clog oil passages and that will result in engine failure..I just R&Red a 03 chrysler 4.7 that the customer had used coastal 5w-30 from the dollar tree...the internals on the motor looked like someone had poured liquid charcoal into the motor.I did not tell the above person to put 20W-50 into his NEW tundra that is straight up retarded... I simply put that answer into the post from JIMKD8 about synthetic molecules being smaller than conventional...in return cause a motor to leak... I agree... I've only given my 2 cents.... that in no way shape or form is exactly what the starter of the topic should do.... it's not bad advice it's advice i follow myself... to each his own...Read my posts and understand them before you run your *censored*ing mouth...
Post by: Buckmark on January 19, 2010, 10:47:38 AM
As far as the Nova, it use's 10w30 castrol, i know because i service the vehicle.
And no i do not work for a dealer.
I have been doing and have been in the repair business for over 27yrs so its not a hobby for me and i'm not saying i know everthing but i do have alot of experience to draw from.
My grandfather had a saying "Grease is cheaper than parts", change your oil often, use a good quality oil and make sure the level is full between changes and you should never have an oil related failure.
The #1 reason for failures that i have been seeing lately is lack of oil in engines, lack of service at regular intervals and routine level checks.
Extended service intervals of 7500+ miles is great but you still need to check the level and people do not do this, an engine will consume oil during normal use and when the manufacture says they dont need to service as often then checking it gets over looked, which leads to low levels, oil starvation and engine failure. Almost every single engine failure i see, the first thing i pull is the oil level indicator (dipstick) and it is usually dry..
Post by: huntnphool on January 19, 2010, 10:48:00 AM
Post by: TEX-X on January 19, 2010, 10:56:22 AM
Whoo, Whoo there TEX, i understood your post, you said heh if your running 5w30 just change over to 20w50, and that is bad advice for a late model vehicle, you did not qualify your statment by saying if it is an older engine, say 80's or older.I definately agree with your grandfather..that is why i religiously change oil at 3500 on EVERYTHING I just can't let my self let an engine go 5000 plus miles on an oil even if it's the recommendation of the oil maker. oil is cheaper than parts.... i didn't mean to jump your ass... it's been a bad morning... I hate dealerships and the only thing i hate more is talking to the Techs... yes i know that there are a bunch of good techs and dealerships out there but they are getting few and far between..... i should've clarified on my 20W-50 advice being for an older motor... my apologies...
As far as the Nova, it use's 10w30 castrol, i know because i service the vehicle.
And no i do not work for a dealer.
I have been doing and have been in the repair business for over 27yrs so its not a hobby for me and i'm not saying i know everthing but i do have alot of experience to draw from.
My grandfather had a saying "Grease is cheaper than parts", change your oil often, use a good quality oil and make sure the level is full between changes and you should never have an oil related failure.
The #1 reason for failures that i have been seeing lately is lack of oil in engines, lack of service at regular intervals and routine level checks.
Extended service intervals of 7500+ miles is great but you still need to check the level and people do not do this, an engine will consume oil during normal use and when the manufacture says they dont need to service as often then checking it gets over looked, which leads to low levels, oil starvation and engine failure. Almost every single engine failure i see, the first thing i pull is the oil level indicator (dipstick) and it is usually dry..
Post by: Woodchuck on January 19, 2010, 11:03:53 AM
Post by: TEX-X on January 19, 2010, 11:06:32 AM
Post by: Woodchuck on January 19, 2010, 11:09:43 AM
Post by: Buckmark on January 19, 2010, 11:17:17 AM
Post by: huntnphool on January 19, 2010, 11:28:29 AM
Post by: TEX-X on January 19, 2010, 11:29:37 AM
Post by: huntnphool on January 19, 2010, 11:40:30 AM
Post by: mazama on January 20, 2010, 08:15:51 PM