Hunting Washington Forum

Big Game Hunting => Muzzleloader Hunting => Topic started by: shorthair15 on December 22, 2009, 03:14:10 PM

Title: what materials do you need for a traditional muzzleloader before i buy one
Post by: shorthair15 on December 22, 2009, 03:14:10 PM: i have powder all ready i figured it would be best on here to ask as there is a wealth of info on here. thanks. im a green horn to traditonal muzzleloaders. i figured i would try some round balls before conicals. ive been looking at a gun with a 1 in 48 twist. i know i need patches for the round balls. do use patches that are rated for the diameter of the bullet. can you use a musket nipple on the percussion rifle or is it better to use the number 11. are you better off to get a fiberglass ram rod and get rid of the wooden one im not sure how sturdy they are. i looked at a thompson ctr renegade, lyman great plains, lyman trade,thompson ctr hawken they all seem like good guns. i have 2 powder measures all ready. i use the german musket and percussion caps for my inline. so i think they should work fine a traditional smoke pole as well. which round balls work best or does it not make a difference. do you need to use a capper on a traditional to prime it? thanks lay any info to steer me in the right direction. its a shame there is no place around here that sells traditional muzzleloaders where i live. ive been looking online the closest place is wholesale sports in vancouver. any one know any place around here that sells traditionals.thanks i live by castle rock.
Title: Re: what materials do you need for a traditional muzzleloader before i buy one
Post by: whacker1 on December 22, 2009, 04:15:38 PM: Try 4 Corners in Castle Rock - they should be able to order whatever it is that you want. I bought a used Remington inline .54 from them about 5 years ago, and finally killed my first Buck with it.

Bob's in longview should be able to order whatever you want as well. Not many folks that stock many traditional muzzleloaders as most folks are buying the inlines.

The lyman great plains is my favorite of your list. I suggest using #11 for it, I don't think you can get a musket nipple for them, but it might be possible. I prefer the conicals, as they shoot better and have more knock down mass behind them.
Title: Re: what materials do you need for a traditional muzzleloader before i buy one
Post by: MagKarl on December 22, 2009, 06:54:19 PM: Right on! Glad to hear you're interested in the traditional route. You don't need a whole lot, but you do need the basics. If you're serious about round balls, I'd go 54 over 50 in case you want to chase elk too. Round balls are great killers, if you do some research on the traditional sites you'll find most guys get pass throughs on deer, full bore conicals are not necessary for deer. They are heavy and slow compared to a round ball.

Anyway, a good place to start is balls that are 0.010" under bore size, 0.490 in a 50 and 0.530 in a 54. You can go up to 0.495 or 0.535" if you have to, but most folks prefer the smaller ball and thicker patch.

Patches I'd start with 0.015", lubed 100% cotton. Or get dry patches and lube them yourself with bore butter or Hoppes BP liquid lube. I use the liquid for range time and greased patches for hunting. Pick up your shot patches and inspect them for tearing and burn through. You want a snug fit to engage the rifling and wipe fouling out. You might need to go up or down on patch thickness to dial in an accurate load with manageable fouling. Expect to need a stout patch and lots of lube to shoot hunting loads at the range without wiping between shots.

#11 caps are fine. You don't need a capper, sidelock nipples are easy to access.

Plinking loads I'd start with 50-60 grains, consult your owners manual for max load. Hunting load of around 90-100 grains is probably close, work up and down from say 80-max and find the best groups. These are for ff black powder, if you're using Triple7 or pyrodex read the label so you don't overcharge.

A short starter is helpful to start the patched ball down the bore. Your factory ramrod is likely fine, just grip it low and use short strokes to seat the ball. Or use a range rod, your choice. I recently started using a 1/2" dowel for a loading rod at the range. Cheap and sturdy.

The old Sportsman's Warehouse now Wholesale Sports in Lacey has a decent selection of traditional accessories. Otherwise, online sources are the way to go if you can wait on shipping.

For cleaning I'd get a nipple wrench, a bronze brush, jag, patches, and a 30-35cal brush if you have a patent breech.
Title: Re: what materials do you need for a traditional muzzleloader before i buy one
Post by: Wacenturion on December 22, 2009, 07:32:45 PM: Those German caps are the best......stick with them. Either percussion or musket caps will work on a traditional. I have used both on my T/C 54 Renegade, although if I had to choose one I would use musket as they are even hotter. Personally I would use conicals and not round balls, on deer or elk...just my opinion from my experiences.

T/C Renegade would be my choice or T/C Hawken. Wood ramrod is just fine and easier to mark as to seating your bullets. Don't really need a capper like with an in line although they would work.

As others have mentioned....check Bob's in Longview.
Title: Re: what materials do you need for a traditional muzzleloader before i buy one
Post by: RunningBear on December 24, 2009, 06:09:53 PM: Cabelas sells kits that would help!Try Dixie Gun Works also they have a large sellection of kits and completed rifles.I like flintlocks myself,but good luck with yours.
RunningBear.