Post by: Red Dawg on January 24, 2008, 09:45:03 PM
Post by: Intruder on January 25, 2008, 08:24:15 AM
IMO... the short answer is NO!
The 30mm tube relative to other features such as coatings and glass is secondary when it comes to gaining performance. The VariX-III relative to other scopes in it's price range doesn't compete as well.
For the kind of money you're talking about take a look at Kahles and Zeiss.
In some circles.... the site to a degree, it is somewhat blasphemous to speak at all unflatteringly about Leupold. Don't get me wrong, Leupold still makes a good product, in the USA, and with a rock solid warranty. I still own 2 VariX-IIIs. But objectively speaking (no pun intended) when you really start comparing them to other scopes price point by price point they fall behind in performance.
Post by: actionshooter on January 25, 2008, 06:32:56 PM
Post by: Bookworm on January 25, 2008, 06:54:20 PM
Post by: Red Dawg on January 25, 2008, 07:57:38 PM
Post by: bobcat on January 25, 2008, 08:33:37 PM
Post by: Red Dawg on January 26, 2008, 12:10:39 PM
Post by: bobcat on January 26, 2008, 01:12:54 PM
http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1950940/page/0/fpart/1
Post by: Red Dawg on February 02, 2008, 03:24:18 PM
Post by: high country on February 03, 2008, 07:13:46 AM
Post by: Red Dawg on February 15, 2008, 09:24:53 AM
Post by: high country on February 15, 2008, 04:50:26 PM
Post by: 280ackley on February 15, 2008, 06:49:05 PM
that whole made in the USA thing is not totally true anymore.Which ones aren't made in the USA?
Post by: bobcat on February 16, 2008, 08:49:46 PM
Post by: KillBilly on February 16, 2008, 09:05:35 PM
Post by: Red Dawg on February 17, 2008, 04:39:05 PM
Post by: bobcat on February 17, 2008, 05:26:25 PM
Leupold is in Oregon and has been for years
Yeah there's no question Leupold is made in the U.S. but I'm pretty sure the glass comes from Japan.
Post by: Red Dawg on February 17, 2008, 05:43:02 PM
Post by: bobcat on February 19, 2008, 07:03:39 PM
Post by: high country on February 19, 2008, 08:48:29 PM
Post by: Red Dawg on February 22, 2008, 05:54:10 AM
Post by: Buckshot Bill on February 22, 2008, 07:46:24 AM
Post by: tlbradford on February 22, 2008, 07:53:49 AM
Objective Lens size and Tube Diameter
Let’s talk about objective lens sizes. 40 to 44mm is pretty standard on a medium variable rifle scope. It’s trendy these days to have large objective lenses of 50, 56, or even 75mm in some cases. In most cases, these are unwarranted, and the largest ones are laughable. Large objective lenses will only transmit more useable light than smaller ones if they are set at their highest power in the dimmest conditions. The detriment is comfort and ease of eye alignment. With a properly mounted scope, you should be able to close your eyes, shoulder your gun with a proper, repeatable stock weld (a stock weld is the firm but comfortable and repeatable position of your face on the gun stock), open your eyes, and look directly through the center of your scope every time. Large objective lenses prevent this from happening because of the ring height required to keep such a large lens off your gun barrel. Some scopes require such high mounting that only your chin touches the stock. These scopes are also heavier, clumsier, unwieldy, unbalanced to carry, slower and less comfortable to shoot. Some of these scopes weigh up to an unbelievable 3.5 pounds!
Leupold might have something going on with their new VX-L line of scopes that combine a large objective lens with a contoured bottom that doesn’t interfere with your gun barrel, and lets you mount up to a 56mm lens with low rings!
The larger 30mm main tubes on some tubes are most useful for allowing for a greater range of elevation adjustments, not greater light transmission. In fact, most 30mm scopes have the same size lenses that are in one inch tubes.
Light Transmission and Eye Relief
Scopes don’t gather light, as most people think, although the term “light gathering ability” has become accepted jargon. Scopes transmit available light through the lenses to your eye, always losing a bit in the process. The best a scope can hope to offer in light transmission is about a theoretical 98%, which only the very finest (read expensive) scopes can hope to approach. Anything above 95% is considered great, and most scopes are around 90%, give or take a bit.
The more magnification you have, the less light you get to your eyepiece. The larger the objective lens, the more you get through your eyepiece.
Aged eyes may dilate to only about four millimeters. Younger eyes may open up to seven millimeters and even more.
The small circle of light that appears in the eyepiece when you hold a scope at arms length is called an exit pupil. Here’s an interesting experiment to help explain it. Take a variable scope, put it at its lowest power, and hold it at arms length. See the circle of light in the ocular lens? That is the exit pupil. The diameter of it in millimeters is the exit pupil size. Now turn the scope up to its highest power and try it again. See how much smaller it gets? Imagine if you are using this scope during poor lighting conditions as common in hunting situations, like dawn or dusk. How small and dark will that exit pupil be? How well do you think you’ll be able to see through that tiny circle of light?
A formula for exit pupil is as follows: Divide the objective lens size in millimeters by the magnification. Example: if your 3-9X40 scope is set at 3X, 40 divided by 3 equals 13.3 millimeters, which is large enough for almost all low light applications. If your scope is set at 9X, 40 divided by 9 equals 4.44millimeters. The difference in available light from the larger exit pupil is significant.
The larger the exit pupil, the less critical the position of your head in relation to the scope is, also. The distance that your eye must be to the ocular lens to get a full, clear picture is called eye relief. Lower powered scopes will have a larger range of distance available for a full view. Higher powered scopes are sometimes very critical in relation to the centering of your eye through the middle of the tube, and the distance your eye must be from the ocular lens. Sometimes there is only a half inch closer or further you may be to see the whole available view. The largest eye relief currently available is about five inches, and that is pretty rare. Four inches is still great, and most scopes are between three and three and a half inches. Higher recoiling guns including slug guns require lots of eye relief to prevent “scope eye” or the cut that some people get from the ocular lens of the scope coming back under recoil and cutting a semicircular gash above the shooter’s eye.
When mounting a scope, it should be at its highest power, and in a position that your head and neck are comfortable. Your head should be positioned on the stock in the position you will be shooting the most. For instance, if you sight in a gun while shooting off a bench rest, your head tends to sneak up on the stock a bit. If this gun is then used for snap shooting for deer in the woods, your eye relief might not be optimal, nor might your sight picture.
Post by: littletoes on March 01, 2008, 10:33:56 PM
VX-III's are very durable scopes. The 30mm tube on the LR Tactical models help in range/wind adjustments ONLY. More room, more adjustment. Simple math once again.
The glass is the same size as other Luppy's, the only Leupold scopes that have actual larger lenses that match the larger 30mm tubes are Leupold's Premier Line of scope.
This being said, I would have to say they are excellantly made, right here in the good 'ol USA, in Beaverton Oregon, as said above. Yes the glass is made overseas, as is NightForce and several others.
At times you can find them for around $500, and if you do, snap it up. That is a rare find.
Click Adjustments (varies with models, example; M1, M2, M3) are very crisp, and very accurate. I have heard complaints with other models, such as Nikon, not being as "true" in match conditions. Hunters won't notice this....and perhaps Nikon has fixed this little problem.
I own a couple, and will not sell them, am sure that my son's, possibly a daughter will end up with them in time.....we shall see.
To beat a Luppy?
Well, its gonna cost ya! Try NightForce, US Optics, or Schmidt & Bender. NightForce is the closest in price, with a few US Optics models. The higher end models will be above $2000.
Leupold will also make new "caps" that will match your favorite load. Think they run around $75, I personaly like the 1 MOA models for fast work, the 1/4 MOA for a bit more precise work at extended ranges. This combined with some form of MILL-Dots is killer if you take the time to learn/know them and your rifle/load combo.
Read a survey once from Outfitters of the US, about what were the biggest problems with clients and their equipment. Most were on European scope failures, and they named names. Swaro for example.
Too fancy, too lightly made for American Hunting where WE get in the brush. Tactical Models don't apply here, but I have NO experience with the Swaro Tactical scopes.
High-End Scopes? Well, if you want to see into Tomarrow....Schmidt & Bender, US Optics, NightForce.
But I'm a bit prejudiced....
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi15.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa369%2FLitoD%2FSB-Scope1Copy.jpg&hash=a1175118c2f37a49e65e99912d2dadce64a184b6)
Oh, and YES, there are tubes that come bigger. I think US Optics has a few with 45mm tubes? Not sure, but I have seen 34mm and 35mm.
Post by: Red Dawg on March 01, 2008, 10:43:19 PM
Post by: littletoes on March 02, 2008, 07:09:24 AM
I think it is an exceptional scope, and you woulod LOVE it for hunting, or whatever else that you might want it for. Sometimes you've got to figure in "Want", and it may figure in higher than any other reason! Good 'Nuff for me!
I have a Luppy LR Tactical M1 3.5-10X40mm /TMR Reticle on my 300 mag, and LOVE it.
I've gotten so use to the 30mm tube, everything else looks "too small" anymore.
MillDots were never developed for competitions, they were developed as a quick reference for range estimation.....for Hunting, if you will. And it works.
I would say, buy it, learn it, then use it. You'll love it. The sad part, when you want to replace all of your existing scopes, don't blame me! ;)
Good Luck, but post a pic when/if you pick one up!
Post by: high country on March 02, 2008, 08:15:03 PM
Post by: Red Dawg on March 03, 2008, 05:59:23 AM
Post by: littletoes on March 05, 2008, 06:42:42 PM
First, center the crosshairs at 100 yards/meters, then figure out where your bullet hits at 200, 300, 400, etc. etc. You'll then notice you have additional cross-hairs for the additional ranges. You can then learn to use your "marks" to estimate range. It realy does work, and much simpler than folks think.
If I find one cheaper, I'll send you a message, but the 6.5-20's are heavily sought after.
Post by: Red Dawg on March 05, 2008, 06:47:13 PM
Post by: littletoes on March 05, 2008, 07:04:13 PM
And if so, your asking the wrong guy, I shoot my guns. Can't save 'em for nuthin! ;)
Guns were meant to shoot, not sit in a safe. When I die, my kids will have them, but mostly they will need new barrels, etc.
My personal advice would be to shoot it, and when the barrel is shot out, RE-BARREL IT! It'll be better than new that way, and shoot even better, oh, and cost less than anything sitting on the shelf. Just get a good smith, and buy a good barrel. The best you can afford. Hell, better than that even. Kreiger, Hart, Lothar W., Lilja, you name it, they all make great barrels, and give free advice.
Now, this is just my advice, it ain't worth much, but do with it as you will, and GOOD SHOOTING! ;)
Post by: Red Dawg on March 05, 2008, 07:08:53 PM
Post by: littletoes on March 05, 2008, 07:12:00 PM
Treat it right, break it in slow, then treat it with love for-ever-more after that. I can understand why you would want to put some great glass on it.
Post by: Red Dawg on March 05, 2008, 07:15:29 PM
Post by: NXS-Hunter on August 29, 2009, 08:11:42 PM
I do not work for the company. I do own a Nightforce Scope.
3.5-15X50 NXS
Post by: royalbull on August 29, 2009, 09:13:20 PM
i have a 30mm 3.5-14 lps, and just sold a 3.5-10 vari-xIII lr m3/cams. the 30's are great for the extra adjustment you get. the vari-x also has glass reticle. I would say for the money they are decent for a long range gun. optically they are no swaro but the leuys I have sent in were back the same month....I just got my swaro back.....I sent it in during elk season.
Leupolds LPS scopes are 30mm tubes with 1" guts not a true 30mm scope
Post by: littletoes on September 19, 2009, 03:48:19 PM
Luppy Premier Scopes have TRUE 30mm glass in them, all others have the same as the 1 inch stuff(also not counting the true Tactical scopes made by luppy!). Thats why they are so expensive!
Post by: KimberRich on October 08, 2009, 08:58:51 AM
There is no 40mm tube. There is either a one inch tube or 30mm. The 1 inch tube is equal to 25.4mm so is slightly smaller. The objective lens is either 40mm or 50mm. The larger objective lens theoretically will let you see better in low light conditions, especially with the higher magnifications. Leupold never used to make 30mm scopes. I think they started doing so just to try to compete with the European scope makers. I'm no expert on the subject but from what I've read the 30mm tube is nothing more than a marketing gimmick. It definitely won't make any difference in how clear a prairie dog looks at 500 yards. That would only be a factor of the quality of the lenses, and the magnification. If it were me I'd just go with the 1 inch tube, but in the 6.5-20 I would go with the 50mm objective lens. In a scope for a big game rifle I would not go with more than a 40mm objective because the scope has to be mounted too high. But with the 20x magnification the bigger objective will likely be and advantage for early morning and late evening shots.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
Post by: littletoes on October 08, 2009, 06:12:23 PM
There are some 34 and 35mm tubes out there....Schmidt's for example, and some other German brands.
Post by: G.R.K on October 08, 2009, 10:26:55 PM
If your going to spend over $1000 then go with a Nightforce Scope. If you are spending less than $1000 then you will need to compare scopes side by side and look through them. Every piece of glass will be different. I personally would save for two years if need be to own a Nightforce. Point of Impact does NOT change with Nightforce scopes..... :) It does with all others.... :bash:
I do not work for the company. I do own a Nightforce Scope.
3.5-15X50 NXS
Your POI will change no matter what scope you have,depending on weather conditions. ;)
Post by: MtnMuley on October 09, 2009, 08:02:02 AM