Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: Sporting_Man on February 26, 2010, 04:40:26 PM
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I have a new Model 70 Featherweight in 270 Win, one of those 2008 Anniversary models. Shot maybe 120 rounds through it. I am seriously puzzled with its inconsistent groups. Tried 2 premium scopes, that were tested and proved good on other rifles, checked the mount, barrel is free floated - no contacts with barrel. I do not handload, but I tried Federal Gameking Sierras 130 grains, Winchester's Accubond Supremes 140grains, Federal Fusion in 130 grain, and Hornady SST 130 grains. It seems to like Fusion the best and then Winchester Accubonds come second.
This rifle throws 3 inch groups when clean (copper removed), on average. After I shot 20 rounds, it starts tightening... I made a couple of clover leaves today from the dirty, warm barrel on 100 yds, of course.
I consider myself a decent shoot, have other rifles that I always clean and they do well with their barrels clean... This one is my best looking, best handling and best liked of them all.
Now, experts, please tell me, should I keep this rifle - it drives me nuts..? What can be done to improve consistency here..? Is it worth it?
Thanks
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This rifle throws 3 inch groups when clean (copper removed), on average. After I shot 20 rounds, it starts tightening... I made a couple of clover leaves today from the dirty, warm barrel on 100 yds, of course.
Does the rifle always shoot 3" groups with this ammunition from a cold, clean barrel?
Do the clover leaf groups come from the same ammunition as the 3" group?
Accuracy issues are very difficult to debug. Sometimes it is simply a matter of too small a sample size. Imagine throwing 1000 darts at a board. Somewhere along the way, three consecutive tosses will touch each other, and somewhere else along the way three consecutive tosses will be five inches apart. Are the darts bad? Is the thrower bad?
I would not discard the gun yet. I would have someone else shoot it and eliminate any possibility of human error first. I say that not to offend you, but it is a process of elimination. After you have positively eliminated the human error factor, the next step would be scopes and barrel contact. You've eliminated those, apparently. Ammunition is next. I have seen guns shoot 1/2" groups with a certain ammunition, and 3" with different "premium" ammunition. Guns, especially ones with lightweight barrels, are usually extremely finicky about their tastes in ammunition. You may need to try five or more to find something the gun likes.
If it comes down to the gun shooting well when dirty, that's easy: don't clean it. Seriously. If it is matter of the barrel shooting poorly when cold, that's a problem, especially if you plan to hunt with it.
Go through the steps, one by one. Take your time, take good notes. Remember that small sample sizes can be misleading. The military shoots thousands of rounds when testing ammunition. One good group, or one bad group, can lead to false conclusions too easily.
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Good post by Bob33. I can't add much to it, seeing that you've already tried a couple of different scopes and you say the barrel is free floated. All I will say is it is a good thing 270 Win. ammo is relatively cheap. And on that note, about the only factory ammo I have ever shot from my 270 has been Winchester Power Point, either 130 or 150 grain, both shoot just as good as most any that I've ever handloaded. I haven't bought any for a couple years, but it used to always sell for $12 at Wal-mart. I'd try some of those and see how they do. At least you won't be out much money.
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Winchester lists it as weighing 7lbs. Trigger pulls on rifles sold nowadays tend to be anywhere from 5-8lbs. I couldn't find a number for your model but, it may be the culprit? 7 lb rifle with a 7 lb trigger pull means you physically need to move the rifle to pull the trigger. Try lightening the trigger and see if it helps
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I had a gun once with similar characteristics, ended up being the action screws. I glasbedded the action and snugged the screws tight. I think it was the tang screw that was the culprit.
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Bob33,
First to answer your question - My first shot today was actually pretty decent, a tiny bit lower than expected... Then it warmed up (not hot by any means - I take my time between shots) and started scattering. At the end of the session, same ammo (Sierra Game King 130 grains) ended up clover-leaved twice... And no, I am not offended by going through your checkup list. Of course that human error is just as likely to be a reason...
DoubleJ,
This trigger is 3 lbs. I got rid of my otherwise good Ruger Hawkeye because of the heavy trigger. That's when I got this Featherweight...
Thank you guys, any advice and opinion is appreciated.
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As stated above, check the action screws, and the scope base and ring screws. Is it already bedded? All things to look at, and maybe change.
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As stated above, check the action screws, and the scope base and ring screws. Is it already bedded? All things to look at, and maybe change.
It seems that the action is bedded nice and neat. Barrel is free floated, evenly from all sides. Could not notice any contact with barrel.
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have you checked the barrel free float when it heats up???
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:yeah:
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have you checked the barrel free float when it heats up???
Not positive. You got me on this one! However, that clearance between barrel and forend stock looks very substantial while the barrel is cold.
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it would look that way but the steel and the wood can swell when hot. measure the gap cold most use a dollar bill folded to the size were it just fits then shoot like 5 shots failry quick and then see if it will slide. my model 70 did it a little i just took a little wood out from under the barrel and never had it have any problems my groups were not changing but i did not like it not being free floated. just my :twocents:
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Sell the gun!
It sounds as if you have done everything possible to make it shoot and alas, it just won't shoot like you want. It sounds to me like the barrel has one of two problems; your rifle was one of the first off the line after Winchester installed a new set of reamers, new reamers produce loose barrels, loose barrels shoot loose groups (can improve with a little fouling), or, and not as likely considering the groups "tighten up" as the barrel fouls, is that the crown is defective. But the bottom line as I see it from what you are saying is that the barrel itself is the culprit and there is very little that can be done to fix these problems. I good gunsmith can re-crown the barrel and maybe that will fix it but you're talking spending a fair bit of change on a maybe.
Sorry man, it is sad to give up a gun that you really like.
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Another idea: sometimes rifles will shoot better with some contact between the stock and barrel. Use some cardboard and place it appx 1/4 to 1/2 inch back from the end of the forearm. Use enough cardboard to just make contact and try it. It may work.
If this or any of the other ideas already mentioned don't work, I would just keep it dirty and use it, since you like the rifle and it groups well after 20 shots.
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:yeah:
I've had better luck with slight upward muzzle pressure on skinny barrels. A couple of business cards under the forend would be an easy test.
Andrew
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as much as it sucks.....pull the scope again. throw the alignment dowels in it, tighten the rings and see what is up. typically when a gun goes 3moa it is either not stabilizing bullets or optic related.....imo. I would suggest pulling the bolt and making sure the base screws do not contact the bolt. if everything is hunky dorie, go to the range and add a bit of pressure to the barrel out near the tip of the stock.....about 5lbs worth should do......does your group change in size, or just move up? if it changes in size we can get to it.
when you shoot from the bench does your barrel touch anything? what is your technique for bench shooting?
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I've got an older Featherweight model 70 that shoots much better with a pressure point on the barrel than with it free floated. When I floated the barrel, it wouldn't shoot less than 2" groups. With a pressure point, I can get sub 1" with the right loads.
It's a 30/06, and shoots much better with 180's than 150's. You might want to try different bullets through yours, too.
I glass bedded the action and put the pressure point in using fiberglass tape and epoxy resin.
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Thank you all. Decided to sell (maybe trade) the rifle. :'( I don't want to deal with it, because if I modify anything on, it will be worth less money - should I eventually have to sell it.
Besides, ammo is not cheap, so excessive range visits cost serious money, escpecially for rifles that are inconstistent like this one.
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Don't give up yet. I had a Model 70 Classic Sporter from New Haven that performed very much as you have described. Tried everything. Multiple loads, different scopes, had it properly bedded, clean, fouled, cold, warm. :dunno: It would occaisionally group a nice cloverleaf, and I would think "cool" got it. Then the next time out, not so good. I finally took it to my local gunsmith and had him check the barrel, after a discussion of what I had gone through. He scoped the bore and said "There is nothing to be done for this barrel." It had a rough spot about 3/4 of the way down the barrel that was abrading the bullet on the way by. It would smooth over a bit as you fired it, and at a certain level of fouling would yield a decent group, then it would gather too much copper and start throwing bad shots again.
I called Browning/Winchester Service. They said "send us that rifle". A few weeks later they sent me a NEW rifle. How is that for customer service?
Give them a try.
wsmnut
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At least try a few groups with foreend pressure before giving up. Take a business card or two and slide them between the barrel and foeeend tip.
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It would be a shame to give up on a gun that you like so well. I see you have had quite a few suggestions and all good ones I might add. Here’s a couple more you might mull over before throwing in the towel. I see all the ammo you have been using is 130gr. My first suggestion would be to try shooting a few round of 150gr ammo. Second suggestion would be to take the gun to a local gun smith and have him hone and crown the barrel. All this would take less then 100 dollars. Hope this helps… :twocents:
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Some great advice given here. Personally I would start with the cheapest and in my experience the most common culprit the gun not liking the ammo. I would do as suggested and move up in bullet weight. Then if no improvement, I would try another bullet or two before giving up on the rifle.
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I have a similar rifle, mine is an early 90's Fwt in 30-06. One of the biggest factory flaws in these rifles is the lack of solid bedding. Have you personally inspected your bedding? Mine is currently disassembled for a bedding re-do. The factory bedding is a little squirt of hot glue gun type gunk at the recoil lug, that's it. Mine was broken, half stuck to the stock, half to the barrel. I have not heard or read of anyone bedding a M70 action that did not get an improvement in grouping. I wish I was done with mine and could tell you how much it helped, but I just haven't had time to get it done yet.
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The factory bedding is a little squirt of hot glue gun type gunk at the recoil lug, that's it.
Yup, that is why mine get PROPERLY rebedded...then shot for group and pressure upward applied to check that. THEN I get serious about shrinking the groups.
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I had an early 90's featherweight in 22-250. Only gun I could never get to shoot consistently. tried everything mentioned here, including trigger work and rebedding. Never, ever got it to shoot consistently. Finally traded it off at a gun show on a 25-06 that has always shot lights out. That Model 70 featherweight is the only gun that I don't regret getting rid of over the years.
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Well, it's happened - I simply traded it in for another Winchester 70. This time, it is a Sporter in the same caliber. Not a fancy wood like the other one, but this barrel looks heftier and bottom line - 24'' barrel is more appropriate for 270Win IMO. Sure enough, not as pretty as Featherweight (this is more like plain jane wood), but I will know how to appreciate and love it if it turns to be a good performer.
What I like about this one is a comfy cheekpiece, which gives a better ballance for sure. The Sporter should be much more consistent - it better be!!! I am hoping for the best. Will slap a Leupold VX-II 3-9X40 on it and hit the range on Friday.
Thank you all for encouragement and advice.