Post by: funkster on March 09, 2010, 07:09:30 PM
Post by: WonkyWapiti on March 09, 2010, 07:25:26 PM
Post by: nw_bowhunter on March 09, 2010, 07:32:10 PM
Post by: funkster on March 09, 2010, 07:33:49 PM
Post by: bucklucky on March 09, 2010, 07:38:06 PM
Post by: WonkyWapiti on March 09, 2010, 07:39:33 PM
Post by: bucklucky on March 09, 2010, 07:42:39 PM
Post by: mtbiker on March 09, 2010, 07:53:19 PM
Post by: ribka on March 09, 2010, 07:58:56 PM
Post by: halflife65 on March 09, 2010, 08:11:14 PM
Post by: funkster on March 09, 2010, 08:24:21 PM
How does the seat work for ya? Looks pretty slim .I was going to bet a widder seat and never did.
The guy at the shop said to give the seat a try. He said the wider squishy seat promote chaffing. On my old bike I used what I like to call the "shower cap" it is a softer cover that goes over the stock seat. My buddy has a medium sized/medium soft seat that I think is a good mix.
The green looks great. Black rims would be cool, but I would lose the spoke reflectors. They scream, "Hey, I dismount at all intersections and walk my bike across the street." ;)
It"s funny you mentioned the reflectors...they came off right after I took that pic!
Post by: mtbiker on March 09, 2010, 08:36:08 PM
Post by: JAMMER55 on March 09, 2010, 08:46:31 PM
Post by: funkster on March 09, 2010, 09:15:05 PM
Sweet set up, love the beefy frame. What's the make and model?
It's a 2010 Diamond back response sport. I was told that I may have got one of the last "army green" ones. My dealer found it in a shop in Georgia.
I am really happy with the Topeak bags. I used the "Topeak trunkbag" all of last season and loved it. I was able to loose all the items I need for the hunt out of my backpack and into the trunk bag. I always throw in a extra shirt and a fresh pair of socks. I would recommend this trunk bag to anyone who hunts deep and stays out all day. If you are interest you can check them out http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags (http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags)
Post by: Shootmoore on March 09, 2010, 09:25:14 PM
Shootmoore
Post by: bowtech721 on March 10, 2010, 01:22:04 PM
Post by: funkster on March 10, 2010, 09:58:45 PM
Post by: NGOWENS on March 11, 2010, 09:14:28 AM
Post by: bowtech721 on March 11, 2010, 09:26:00 AM
My only son :chuckle: It ran right under $600 with all the accessories! Would have been about 100 cheaper if I wanted to go with the blue. My mom,wife and I got my dad a new hunting bike last season, so my mom, dad and wife all went in on the new one for me! My family is 8)cool thanks !
Post by: funkster on March 11, 2010, 09:43:14 AM
This may seem stupid to ask, and I am admit its because I am a newbie here, how do you use your bike for hunting? I have a great MT Bike and would like to use it too if I could for hunting!!
A lot of the westside hunting is private timber lands,they allow non motorized vehicles only. A mt bike works better than walking. It will get you deeper faster and most of the time you can get back to the truck faster because it is always down hill. I use an ATV bow holder on my handle bars to carry the bow. I have found this works the best,I have tried every way I could think of and it is the fastest and easiest way to carry a bow.
Post by: NGOWENS on March 11, 2010, 02:15:43 PM
This may seem stupid to ask, and I am admit its because I am a newbie here, how do you use your bike for hunting? I have a great MT Bike and would like to use it too if I could for hunting!!
A lot of the westside hunting is private timber lands,they allow non motorized vehicles only. A mt bike works better than walking. It will get you deeper faster and most of the time you can get back to the truck faster because it is always down hill. I use an ATV bow holder on my handle bars to carry the bow. I have found this works the best,I have tried every way I could think of and it is the fastest and easiest way to carry a bow.
Awesome! makes sense! LOL I guess since I am originally from Eastern WA and you can drive into almost anyplace it didn't cross my mind!
Post by: funkster on March 11, 2010, 08:00:54 PM
This may seem stupid to ask, and I am admit its because I am a newbie here, how do you use your bike for hunting? I have a great MT Bike and would like to use it too if I could for hunting!!
A lot of the westside hunting is private timber lands,they allow non motorized vehicles only. A mt bike works better than walking. It will get you deeper faster and most of the time you can get back to the truck faster because it is always down hill. I use an ATV bow holder on my handle bars to carry the bow. I have found this works the best,I have tried every way I could think of and it is the fastest and easiest way to carry a bow.
Awesome! makes sense! LOL I guess since I am originally from Eastern WA and you can drive into almost anyplace it didn't cross my mind!
Yeah that is why I stopped hunting on the other side of the mountains. You would be supprised how much fun hunting elk is when you are not "chasing" them because of all the road hunters winding them piss tight.
Post by: NGOWENS on March 12, 2010, 08:37:57 AM
Hmm, now I guess I need to find a place to go over here on the westside and use my bike some!! If your looking for someone to go scout with on bike's let me know!!!!
Post by: funkster on March 12, 2010, 09:02:20 AM
Post by: NGOWENS on March 12, 2010, 02:39:34 PM
I'll keep you in mind. Are crew has been working are "honey holes" for about 4 years. It has been a lot of work to find out where the elk always are. Just go to the wdfw website and look at harvest reports,don't be scared by numbers. They are there for a reason just go alittle deeper. Most hunters stop at the 5 mile marker,go 13 and you will be almost all by yourself.
Good advice! I don't want ya to think I am trying to get in on the action, just trying to tag along in the pre season to see what kind of things I can learn and what too look for more when I get out there in some new area looking for a good spot of my own! I can imagine how it would suck for someone to basically "rob" your honey hole from ya like that! Especially with ELK!
Anyway let me know if your able to show a new comer how to get going on his own honey hole! Thanks!!
-Kris
Post by: foambeetle on March 16, 2010, 03:16:07 PM
I used a handlebar rack for my bow last year and it worked OK, but I know some guys shy away from them and attach them to their backpack etc. (I've also seen the scabbard style attachments to the rear portion of the bike frame) . . . Anyone have thoughts on the pros and cons of the various methods for transporting your bow?? I liked the handlebar mount, but was concerned about taking an accidental spill and damaging my bow . . .so I was thinking of going with the "bow attached to me" route this year.
On bike trailers, some guys use them . . . some don't . . . pros & cons?? I'm relatively new to the mtn. biking for elk thing, and haven't put a trailer to use yet, but it seems like it would be a nice option for hauling a load when an animal hits the ground, etc. (brands like Burley and BOB) If anyone has insight on trailers they have used, please give a review of the good and bad. I've looked at everything from the lower $ (hauling kids) to high end (touring/cargo) for bike trailers, still "thinking" about what might be the "ticket" function/price-wise.
happy trails
Post by: bow4elk on March 16, 2010, 03:51:53 PM
Black rims would look better.
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Agree...if you really bought it for hunting, flip it over, give the wheels a spin and hit the rims with a steady stream of flat black (overspray won't matter on the tires ;)). Love the frame color!
Post by: bucklucky on March 16, 2010, 04:05:04 PM
Post by: chrisb on March 16, 2010, 04:07:17 PM
Post by: bow4elk on March 16, 2010, 04:09:44 PM
Craigslist is gold mine for killer deals, so spend some time shopping there before you go and buy new. :twocents:
Post by: bow4elk on March 16, 2010, 04:12:35 PM
SO if you don't use a trailer how do you get the animal out after you've harvested?
one piece at a time ;) and/or a bike trailer.
Post by: chrisb on March 16, 2010, 04:22:59 PM
SO if you don't use a trailer how do you get the animal out after you've harvested?
one piece at a time ;) and/or a bike trailer.
At the 13 miles back he was talking about I don't know how efficient that would be. I could see doing it maybe twice for a deer but an elk? That's a lot of mileage.
Post by: bucklucky on March 16, 2010, 04:28:11 PM
Post by: chrisb on March 16, 2010, 04:32:55 PM
I did the trailer thing before and never do that again!
What was your bad experience. I've been kicking around the idea of getting a bike and trailer for a while now and would like to hear the con's
Post by: bow4elk on March 16, 2010, 04:34:38 PM
SO if you don't use a trailer how do you get the animal out after you've harvested?
one piece at a time ;) and/or a bike trailer.
At the 13 miles back he was talking about I don't know how efficient that would be. I could see doing it maybe twice for a deer but an elk? That's a lot of mileage.
We do 7-10 miles regularly. Our strategy for early season bowhunting is to get the meat cold immediately. So we hunt within reasonable distance to running water. Not to threadjack, but in short we bone out (air cool on bedding sheets as we work) and bag up our meat, then submerge in cold running water for a few hours to get it ice cold and take a break. Then we pack it out. Once the meat is cold, you aren't as rushed. Cold meat is key to long packing jobs to avoid spoilage. Panniers full, load on back. Coolers chock full of ice back at the trucks. Layer meat on ice, repeat. Works great. Slow and easy is the name of the game though.
Post by: funkster on March 16, 2010, 09:13:16 PM
I got to take the bike out this weekend for a 8.44 mile tour and it worked great! The bike was a lot more smoother and comfortable than the old bike. The mountain hills where easier without the rear shock that I had on the old bike. I was able to get more of a power pedal with the hardtail. I had alittle problem with the front fender coming off but after adjusting it,it worked great.
Post by: mtbiker on March 16, 2010, 09:36:40 PM
Post by: funkster on March 16, 2010, 09:49:35 PM
Check them out http://www.hawkeyebilt.com/ (http://www.hawkeyebilt.com/) If you know anyone that welds,you can save about $500 having one made.
Post by: Dirty Mike on March 18, 2010, 05:45:25 AM
Post by: Cascader74 on March 18, 2010, 07:23:11 PM
Post by: PacificNWhunter on March 18, 2010, 07:54:58 PM
Post by: funkster on March 18, 2010, 09:52:54 PM
You say you didn't like full suspension bikes for hunting? I haven't taken a bike hunting yet, but looking to for more access. Last time I road one without rear suspension it about beat me to death over all the damn rocks. Just curious how much of a difference you thought it was since I'm in the market for a new hunting bike.
The difference is when you pedal up hill with a rear shock, the suspension soaks up your pedal as well as the bumps. I noticed that with the hardtail I was able to get more of a "power pedal" which makes uphill climbs easier. I am also looking into pedal baskets so I can get a solid down push and up pull instead of just a down push. Hope that makes scents. The second thing I noticed is the disk breaks. They work very well going down long mountain grades. The breaks work just as good wet as they do dry.Although when wet,the discs do get a little louder. I would suggest thees two features if you are looking into a new hunting bike.
Post by: Cascader74 on March 23, 2010, 05:55:33 PM
Post by: funkster on March 23, 2010, 07:33:43 PM
Here is a pic of the mounts I use.
Post by: funkster on March 23, 2010, 07:41:51 PM
Is that bike very heavy? Thats what I hate most about my bike. My wifes is super light so I usually take it instead. I actually didnt realise that bike was a diamondback. I bought mine at walmart about 10 years ago so mine is a beater , $200.00 walmart special that weighs 30 pounds and has never shifted right.
It is very light yet rigid. If you are willing to spend in the $500-$700 range you can get a nice rig. The thing I have noticed is the more you spend you get the better gears for easier shifting,higher quality cranks and better breaks not the entry level run of the muck stuff that you can buy at the chain stores. If I knew that the bike would have made this big of a difference,I would have gotten a new one along time ago.
Post by: wildwood on March 28, 2010, 11:10:07 AM
Post by: funkster on March 28, 2010, 04:03:24 PM
nice set up all it needs is MUD & BLOOD
It's got the mud, been out the last few weekends. In 6 months I hope to have the blood!
Post by: TheHunt on March 28, 2010, 06:32:20 PM
I have used two styles. I had a buddy make one just like the "hawkeye bilt" carts and used a converted child's carts the first go round. The hawkeye bilt styled one worked the best but it is just not for me.
Check them out http://www.hawkeyebilt.com/ (http://www.hawkeyebilt.com/) If you know anyone that welds,you can save about $500 having one made.
I will second the Hawkeyebilt trailer as well. I would recommend that he adds disk brakes on the trailer when you have it built. Then have a rachet type break lever on your front tube so that you can put a constant pressure on the brakes while going down a long hill. Take that as a lesson learned from someone who should have known better.
Post by: jwroberts on March 29, 2010, 07:04:04 AM
Post by: funkster on March 29, 2010, 10:23:00 AM
Can you share where you got it?
If you are talking about the trailer its www.haweyebilt.com (http://www.haweyebilt.com). Be ready to throw down some $$$. If you are talking about the bike, I got it at cycle therapy in Kent or www.cycletherapybikeshop.com (http://www.cycletherapybikeshop.com)
Post by: dewandgin on March 31, 2010, 09:11:15 PM
You say you didn't like full suspension bikes for hunting? I haven't taken a bike hunting yet, but looking to for more access. Last time I road one without rear suspension it about beat me to death over all the damn rocks. Just curious how much of a difference you thought it was since I'm in the market for a new hunting bike.
The difference is when you pedal up hill with a rear shock, the suspension soaks up your pedal as well as the bumps. I noticed that with the hardtail I was able to get more of a "power pedal" which makes uphill climbs easier. I am also looking into pedal baskets so I can get a solid down push and up pull instead of just a down push. Hope that makes scents. The second thing I noticed is the disk breaks. They work very well going down long mountain grades. The breaks work just as good wet as they do dry.Although when wet,the discs do get a little louder. I would suggest thees two features if you are looking into a new hunting bike.
Another thing to look into is a lockout on the rear shock or one with Pro Pedal that way you can have the best of both worlds