Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: DeKuma on February 20, 2008, 06:07:30 PM
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I recently added all the equipment to a Hoyt Bow I bought from a guy at work about 2 years ago. Been shooting for 3 days now. I am getting better, but I cannot seem to find a consistent anchor point. I have exactly 20 yards from my deck to the target.
They are all in the "kill" zone, but I am not happy with the size of the group. Did better yesterday shooting the black hole alone (it is behind paper), and managed to shoot the fletching off two arrows.
Just thought I would share and if anyone has any good advice for a rookie archer like me, fire away!
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I strongly recommend a trip to a bow shop with a range - it'll do you a world of good, for very little money. If that doesn't work for you, a few suggestions: Here's a link, there's lots of them out there: http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/sm-how-to-tune-a-bow--bg-698554.html
A few tips:
1) tighten your limb bolts all the way down; if it's too hard to draw, back them out evenly - 1/2 turn top, 1/2 turn bottom, etc.. Most compounds shoot best at the upper end of the draw weight.
2) A couple of sources of potential error are addressed with your equipment: the drop-away rest and peep sight help with consistency. Make sure the peep is properly aligned, if you have to shift at all at full draw to see through it - it needs to be properly aligned. Here's a link, there's lots of them out there: http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/sm-how-to-tune-a-bow--bg-698554.html
3) What is your draw length? Is the bow properly adjusted for your draw length? Those Hoyts have a wide range of draw length adjustment.
4) Are you shooting the right spine arrows for your draw length/draw weight (you can check that online w/ Cabelas or another vendors chart for selling arrows, if you know your draw length and weight)
5) I can't see what your nock arrangement is; are you using a string loop with a mechanical release, a mechanical release clipped directly on the bow string, or are you using fingers to draw the bow? If your axle-to-axle length is less than 34", odds are you need to use a mechanical release to shoot consistently. If you are using a mechanical release, I strongly recommend using a loop rather than clipping directly to the string.
6) Is your nock point set properly with a bow square? If your nock point is not perpendicular to the string on the release, you will have accuracy issues.
7) DON"T grip the bow tightly; you will be much more accurate shooting from an open hand. Use the bow leash to keep from dropping the bow; if that doesn't feel right, try just encircling the grip with your thumb and forefinger.
8) Once you know your bow is properly set up, it's time to paper tune.
I know from experience that by shooting a poorly tuned bow every day for months, you can learn to shoot pretty accurately to moderate distances. Or, you can invest 1/2 a day at a competent bow shop with a range, and for a small fee and a few cheap component sales, you can be shooting 6" 50 yard groups within a couple of days.
Good luck - it is truly addicting. I enjoy all hunting, rifle to bow, but the bow most of all.
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Draw length is set at 28" per my measurement.
I had the bow set up at the Nock Point in Edmonds. They selected my arrow and point weight accordingly and timed and tuned the bow for me.
I appreciate the link. I will review it and maybe find something I have missed.
The nock is perp to string, and I am using a mechanical release with a string loop. I am getting used to not gripping the bow and just resting it in the crook between my thumb and index finger, taking some getting used to.
I am not sure if it was paper tuned or not, now that I think of it........ I know it is a bullet hole at 20 yards, but up closer, who knows.
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muscle memory just make sure to be doing the EXACT same thing everytime
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Get to any range with an experienced good shooter. They can see many things that you may or may not be doing right and wrong. At times it can be equipment or even sighting, follow through, grip, etc..
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DeKuma, it sounds like folks here gave you some good advice. And I can assure you that the folks at the Nock Point know their stuff. All I can add is to say that for a guy that's only been shooting for only three days it sounds like you're doing pretty damned good. Keep it up. The only other piece of advice I would give you is to check out a local archery club in your area. It's been my experience that the people at the clubs are pretty friendly and are more than willing to give you advice and pointers you may ask for. Besides that, the clubs usually have plenty of shoots which are lots of fun.
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Everytime I shoot I always place my thumb from my shooting hand on the back of my neck this give me an anchor point every time I shoot. Find yourself a good anchor point and always use that anchor point everytime and you will shoot an improvement in your groups.
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A regular anchor point is critical. It's different for everyone. For me, I wrap the crook of my hand around my jaw with the string just against the tip of my nose.
You might also be dropping the bowhand right before or during the shot (like a flinch), or "punching" the trigger rather than squeezing through the shot.
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I would get a diffrent target? If you are going to practise at 20 and you do become a good shot you will be breaking knocks and tearing off vanes!!! You are probably already afraid of doing it!!! Shoot one arrow at each target. This is a good one. About 45 dollars. Good Luck
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i had a hard time with my anchor point to i wrap my thumb to my neck just behind my ear and i feel the bottom of my ear lobe just touch my hand hope this helps and you understand oh and when you get ready to shoot put your finger on the trigger lightly but dont squeeze just pull the bow apart the release will go off at first it will suprise you but after a while you figure out how much you pull before it goes off . keep your eyes open and dont take your pins off the target till it hits. aim small not for a area aim for one hair. and read alot and see what works
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Anchors points are critical, but so are other alignments. I first anchor my draw hand, with my thumb behind my neck and knuckle touching my ear. Then the string just touches my nose and the corner of my mouth, you can also use a kisser button hear for consistency. I then level my bow with the sight level and last make sure the sight ring is centered in my peep. It is easy for this last one to be off and will make you shoot high or low. Make sure you can just see the whole ring of your sight through your peep, you don't want a big gap around it. Hope some of this helps, the best thing for shooting consistently is shooting constantly, muscle memory is important. Good luck and have fun.
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I talked it over with my wife when we went for a Costco trip. She says I do not hold the release the same everytime. I am assuming she is referring to my anchor. She also noted that when I had my shot touching each other, that I was holding the bow up and looking through the peep all the way until the arrow hit, but when I was getting inconsistency, I was dropping my bow wrist and looking to the side of the bow as soon as I shot so I could see the arrow. Gotta love her!
I have a black hole target behind the picture with multiple spots on it, so I can shoot those, but I was trying to get my shots to group, I have had to refletch two arrows in the last 3 days, so I guess I am groupling well, when everything goes correctly........
Thanks for all the tips. I will keep you posted.
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My first check on a properly tuned bow for any shooter is proper follow through. You can do a quick check of your arrow flight by shooting through some paper and seeing if you are getting a true arrow flight.
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Day 4. Probably put several hundred arrows through in the last 4 days. Starting to feel better with it. I think I have finally found an anchor point that works well for me, if I use it. Also working on follow through and not punching the trigger. I also squeeze the shot off when I first get to the point on the target. I find if I go past it with the pin, then try to wander back to the spot, I am more erradic. Will not be able to shoot again until Saturday, so maybe the day off will do some good.
Thanks for all the advice you guys have given, it is all valuable and is helping a lot.
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after 3 days thats not bad. after you get more shooting time under your belt you will start to get a natural shooting position and notice what anchor point works best for you.
after that you will start shooting tighter groups and shooting alot more fletchings off lol
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I am not keen on loosing fletchings, but I would like to know I am consistently good instead of consistently bad.........
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i also speed shoot on my first five arrows and then take my time on my second five it supprises me that i shoot better speed shooting
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i also speed shoot on my first five arrows and then take my time on my second five it supprises me that i shoot better speed shooting
so do i. i draw, anchor, release. if i have to take the time to make sure im dead on...thats when i shoot bad. its all instinct for me, i get it from shooting a recurve the first 10 years of shooting bows.
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Not a criticism but I have not seen any one use 4 vein arrows in ages.
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i shoot 4 blaser vanes
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Myself and 4 others in my hunting camp all shoot 4 fletch vanetec's and numerous others that come into the shop all use 4 fletch! works like a charm!
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4 vanes are making a comeback. Since I got the dropzone I have been thinking about going to 4 with my slick tricks.
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I've been shooting 4 fletch for years now, one thing to watch out for if your using Blazers, the Blazer vanes are tall enough that it can be a little tricky to get vane clearance. My Mathews Outback roller cable guard is tough to clear with the 4 fletch. I just tried Blazers in a 3 fletch configuration today, trying to give myself more room and found it grouped broadheads exactly the same as the 4 fletch. I also fletched up some lower profile Vanetechs but haven't got to shoot them yet.
Coon
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Just what the Nock Point set me up with. Never gave it any thought about whether they should be 4 vane or 3. For my first practive arrows, did not think it really mattered, does it?
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As I stated, it wasn't a criticism, it is all personal preference. Where I hang out I see mostly 3 vein so it looked unusual to see 4 in your pictures. The bottom line is this: there are lots of mathematical, logical, engineered, reasoning behind equipment choices. Having said that, there are the people who defy the laws of physics... :chuckle: they use what they like or can afford and make it work for them. They swear by it and are very successful harvesters. Personally, I tend to buy everything until I find what works for me and then give the extra away. Anyway, keep up the work and before you know it you will be giving in lieu of asking for advice.
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No criticism taken, just don't know. I figure hell, the work for now. Did strick me as odd having 4 vanes, but the shot good.
I would buy some of everything if my wife would let me............
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I shoot 4 blazers now and I cant tell any difference with field points but when you shoot broadheads past fifty yards they really bring your groups in.I think its more of a down range thing.
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Thaks for the advice Sean. I will try the counting routine and see if that helps.
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I noticed the 4 vanes, but that is a personal choice. I prefer 4" vanes with a helical. No problem with stabilization for me.
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I also noticed, like you, that I was punching the trigger as I moved over the bullseye. To compensate for this, I started counting when I held on target. This is very difficult for a shotgunner to get used to. Time and practice have taught me to pull the trigger on the way by and my finger seemed to have a life of its own. I tried counting to 10, didn't work, then to 5, didn't work. I manaded to get to 3 and have worked my way up from there. Now I can get to 5 and my accuracy has improved tremendously.
-Sean
That sounds like a great idea. I've never tried that personally, but I think I will give it a go and see what happens. Thanks.
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PRactice is going well.
Been using a stuffed turkey decoy and pounding the crap out of it everyday. I am comfortable with shooting a turkey out to 30-35 yards now. Still practice everyday.
Thanks for asking! Cannot wait to actually use it on an animal! (my son is such a ham!)
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Yep, going to use the bow for the first part of the season, then if that does not work, I will switch to the shotgun. Have to let my wife use the shotgun first...........