Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: fishnate on June 11, 2010, 01:57:27 PM
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Wanting to put a new barrel on my 7mm WSM, was wondering what to go with Douglas, Shilen, Lilja, any other suggestions and why.
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You might also look at PacNor and Benchmark. I have a PacNor 300wsm that shoots great, and cleans so well that I've never had to use a bore brush in it. I'm having a Benchmark barrel made right now. This one is a 338/375 Ruger barrel for my Savage Striker. Everyone I've talked to who has a Benchmark barrel is absolutely crazy about their barrel. I don't have any personal experience with their products yet, but my barrel should be done next week and I'll be sure to post some results. Plus, they have a fast turnaround time (an honest 6-8 weeks) and they're local, up in Arlington.
Of course, I don't think that you can go wrong with any of the big name barrel companies. They all make great products.
Andrew
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I guess I'd first ask, why are you changing the barrel? Already shot out the factory barrel? Not accurate enough for you? Thinking about a different chambering?
-Steve
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I am wanting a longer barrel to help improve accurcy.
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I didn't think to as initially, but what model is the rifle you want to rebarrel?
Andrew
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A longer barrel does not necessarily mean more accuracy. Lets here what you've got, what sort of accuracy you're getting now, with what ammunition you're shooting and what your expectations really are. And yes, what action, what current barrel, what trigger, what stock, and whether it's glass/pillar bedded.
-Steve
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A longer barrel does not necessarily mean more accuracy.
-Steve
:yeah:
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I'd go with a 30" barrel,should dial it right in. :chuckle: :chuckle:
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I'd go with a 30" barrel,should dial it right in. :chuckle: :chuckle:
LOL........Ha, ha you know a 40"r will get'cha closer to the target so you can hit it, that's accuracy. :rolleyes: :chuckle:
In all seriousness, the length of the barrel has little to do with accuracy, however it will effect velocity. We need to know what you are using the rifle for because it's possible you are headed in the wrong direction. For a hunting gun you would be better off with a good quality barrel around 22-24 inches. I have a 16" barreled AR10 that is extremely accurate but the velocity is hampered due to the short burn time in the tube.
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Out of the three you mentioned, my vote would go for Douglas. I have a Douglas Premium barrel on my 300 RUM and I love it! It's an extremely accurate barrel and will cost less then the other manufactures you mentioned. :twocents:
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The rifle is a Browning Abolt with factory barrel 22 or 24 inch a Mcmillan stock pillar bedded stock trigger with timney spring kit puts the pull at about 3lbs. I am shooting 150gr swift sirracos with 62gr IMR 4350. not sure what the fps is do not have a cronograph yet this is what it is shooting so far.
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Your getting .69 MOA? Is that right? Why change? you shooting competition? < 1"MOA at 100 yards is more than adaquate for taking down any NA game. 7mm mag will also do the job. I would say keep it as is. Although.. if you do replace it, I would definitely not go shorter than 24".. maybe even go 26" and a couple extra hundred lbs of velocity. :twocents:
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Yes I know It is perfectly fine as is but I guess it is more of a hobby to me than anything else. I just thought doing the barrel might tighten it up even more. And yes it does take down game well 8)
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Anyone that would complain about less than .75moa/100yd from a magnum rifle should have their head examined. :dunno:
Do you still want this to be a hunting rifle or are you planning to compete with it? What is the time interval between shots for barrel cooldown or are all of these shots from a cold barrel? If not, How much does the cold bore shot deviate from the third - fifth warm barrel shot? Although I don't even own one, I'm partial to the Schillen barrels in fluted bull design that disipate heat incredibly well and from what I've seen will print groups like you show even when the bore is warm. But don't expect much better accuracy from a cold bore shot. All you can strive for now is better consistency from a warm barrel.
-Steve
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to answer your question and not mock what your doing >:( , all 3 you posted are great barrels and have a proven history in competition shooting and are known for fantastic accuracy. i personally have a lilja and douglas both are great.
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how are the christianson arms barrels? they are suppose to be pretty good barrels too arent they, i know those guys make some long shots with them all the time
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I don't know many guys who would waste a premium tube on an A-bolt action? :chuckle: J/K. It would leave that rifle "as is". If you want to shoot bug holes, start from the ground-up with a blue-printed 700 action and go from there.
Christensen barrels? POS. They are turned-down shilen "match" barrels......those are barrels that don't meet "select match" tolerances. A $1000 barrel and you can't get the best???? Also, those barrels are button rifled, which means that steel is displaced in the rifling process. Any alteration to the diameter of the tube will change the internal dimensions of that tube. Not conducive to accuracy!
If you want a carbon barrel, go with ABS. They use Mike Rock premium, cut-rifled liners. Those barrels will shoot!
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A longer barrel is more likely to decrease accuracy; not the other way around. That's especially true with lighter contours. If you're getting groups under 1 MOA with a hunting rifle you're crazy to do anything.
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Anyone that would complain about less than .75moa/100yd from a magnum rifle should have their head examined. :dunno:
Do you still want this to be a hunting rifle or are you planning to compete with it? What is the time interval between shots for barrel cooldown or are all of these shots from a cold barrel? If not, How much does the cold bore shot deviate from the third - fifth warm barrel shot? Although I don't even own one, I'm partial to the Schillen barrels in fluted bull design that disipate heat incredibly well and from what I've seen will print groups like you show even when the bore is warm. But don't expect much better accuracy from a cold bore shot. All you can strive for now is better consistency from a warm barrel.
-Steve
By no means complaining no I dont compete maybe with my friends. Just something I want to do :dunno:
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shooting a .69 group out of a 7wsm I'd be more concerned with spending a bunch of $$ on a barrel and making it worse.
:twocents:
Leave it alone...put the $$ towards another rifle build.
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x2 anything mag that shoots .69 in my book is good to go :tup:
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A longer barrel is more likely to decrease accuracy; not the other way around. That's especially true with lighter contours. If you're getting groups under 1 MOA with a hunting rifle you're crazy to do anything.
:yeah:
No guarantee that the new barrel will be any better and may be worse. All three brands are quality with lilja being probably the best but most expensive. I have Shilen and Douglas barrels and have been happy but I the groups you are getting would make me happy. As far as barrel length and velocity, you can pick up approx 50-75 fps with each additional inch of barrel. :twocents:
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I would run a Broughton, Rock, Kreiger, Bartlein or Lilja.
The Broughton will give you the most speed from what I have experienced. Shilen and Douglas just don't seem to be up to par with the other barrel manufacturers. If you look at the benchrest stats, you will see Broughton and Kreiger winning. This carries over into the hunting world. Although you don't need a sub 1/2moa rifle to hunt with, it surely doesn't hurt. My personal 338 Edge will shoot under 1/2 moa all day long. Magnum rifles can be tack drivers, they just need a good barrel and good machining.
Now before the flaming starts about "my Shilen shoots better than that", this is my personal experience in building rifles and looking at different barrels with a borescope. I build 50-75 rifles a year, and get to look at alot of barrels.
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Although you don't need a sub 1/2moa rifle to hunt with, it surely doesn't hurt. My personal 338 Edge will shoot under 1/2 moa all day long. Magnum rifles can be tack drivers, they just need a good barrel and good machining
:yeah: That is all I am trying to do thanks for the help guys.
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shaw makes a good barrel at a fair price.
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Give Benchmark Barrels in Arlington a call, Ron I believe is his name. From some of my buddies who have their barrels and what I've read on other sites like snipershide, benchmark has really built themselves a solid reputation for outstanding barrels. I believe Ron was a gunsmith with Arnold Arms, which also build some really, really nice guns.
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Most of the big name barrels are great and from my limited use of a few different makes I cant say one is better then another.
I dont think you can make a wrong choice as long as you stick with a reputable maker. I think you should start by picking a gunsmith and then get his advise on what barrel to use, he'll most likely have a opinion and a idea of how long wait times will be.
IMHO stay away from the cheaper barrels, Shaw and Adams & Bennett come to mind right off.
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Wise words, you could spend a pile of greenbacks on a select match grade barrel, and if your smith doesn't install it correctly in your action then its all wasted.
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I've had excellent results from several Krieger barrels as well as a Hart.
That said, with a .69" group from a hunting rifle - I wouldn't change a thing.
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"Give Benchmark Barrels in Arlington a call, Ron I believe is his name. From some of my buddies who have their barrels and what I've read on other sites like snipershide, benchmark has really built themselves a solid reputation for outstanding barrels. I believe Ron was a gunsmith with Arnold Arms, which also build some really, really nice guns."
Saying that this guy used to be the gunsmith for Arnold Arms is the worst possible endorsement you could give in my opinion. I had long drawn out nasty dealings with Arnold Arms. That SOB was a crook, sheister A-hole etc. Maybe this buy who owns Benchmark is a good guy but sorry pal any association with Arnold Arms my skin crawl.