Hunting Washington Forum
Equipment & Gear => Guns and Ammo => Topic started by: quadrafire on June 16, 2010, 05:30:29 PM
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I am considering barrel and trigger upgrade for my 10/22. I have a bicentennial edition, that I have used as a shooter since I was 11 (1976). Still in great shape. My question--- Is there any value in this gun as a collector, or should I be fine in upgrading?
I can always keep the original parts in the safe
PS It only gives me about 2" groups at 25yrds/scoped with cheap ammo. Haven't tried any match ammo.
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to me i would upgrade in a heart beat
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Yup, shoot the heck out of it
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Save the components you take off of it. You could always throw them back on if you wanted to sell it.
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Take that barrel band off the forearm of the stock, and it'll most likely reducegroups by 50%. The Power Custom or Volquartsen trigger parts are very nice. I did the trigger and floated the barrel on my mid 80's 10-22 and it shoots a little more than 1" at 100yds. (scoped)
-Steve
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you also have to be careful about the components. Somewhere in those years Ruger changed some of the machining and sometimes the trigger parts just do not want to work, as well as the return rod and spring.
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Thanks for the replies. I may first try it w/o the barrel band. That would be a very cheap fix
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I find that if you switch to the copper jacketed ammo that the groups tighten and if you have jams those typically go away as well. But barrel band is a good place to start.
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:yeah: :tup:
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Throw some better ammo and it should group better. CCI green label shoots tight groups out of mine. I put a Kimber bull barrrel on mine. If I place it on a bench I can get a 10 shot group at 50 yards under a dime.
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I have 3 different types of ammo to try today, will group them with and without the barrel band. Shoud be interesting. Ill let you know.
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Take that barrel band off the forearm of the stock, and it'll most likely reducegroups by 50%. The Power Custom or Volquartsen trigger parts are very nice. I did the trigger and floated the barrel on my mid 80's 10-22 and it shoots a little more than 1" at 100yds. (scoped)
-Steve
Steve you are a Fricking Genius!!! Barrel band removed reduced the groups by at least 50% regardless of the ammo. I am a happy clam. When I got home I sanded the stock so there was no contact at the forestock. Totally disassembled and cleaned/lubricated the entire works. Can't wait to try it again. The ruger stock trigger sucks. I have been eyeing the Volquartsen drop-in. I may do that first then consider barrel replacement. For a 1976 gun (Lots of memories) I think I will fix it up. Can always pass in on to the munchkins. Just don't tell my wife. (if she doesn't know the combo to the safe that is fair right?)
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Hey Quadrafire,
If you haven't mangled your original stock too much, and don't want to, I'll give you my take-off stock to sand down and screw with. I don't even think it has a scratch on it.
Shane
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Thanks for the offer Shane. I think I am ok for now. I don't mind working on this one. There are alot of good looking aftermarket stocks. This could get to be an expensive project.
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All you need from Volquartsen is their hammer. Then install a Power Custom shock buffer, and the Trapper trigger spring kit.
http://www.natchezss.com/brand.cfm?contentID=productDetail&brand=BY&prodID=BYRU9&prodTitle=Trapper (http://www.natchezss.com/brand.cfm?contentID=productDetail&brand=BY&prodID=BYRU9&prodTitle=Trapper) Gun Inc. Trapper Kit/ Ruger 10/22 Rifle
Next, now that you've floated the barrel. Extensive testing will probably yield even more accuracy buy finding the pressure point of the barrel that will remove harmonics. Research Bung Tuner. Take a Piece of brass, wood or plastic that's about the size of a dime wedged under the barrel to apply some upward pressure. Not much pressure, just a little. Try it mid barrel, then move it 2" one way or the other and fire some groups with only one brand/style of ammo. Move it another inch one way or the other. The place were it gives the best groups is the place to drill the bottom of the stock all the way through. Insert a 3/8' screw female fitting. Use a plastic/nylon stud screw to apply variable amounts of pressure until you find even more accuracy. The factory barrels can be nearly as accurate as the after-market bull barrels. -They just don't look as pretty.
Keep an eye on the Volquartsen.com bargain bin.
VQ and Power Custom make some pretty cool options for the 10-22. Don't pass this gun on to your kids just yet. Buy them a used one previous to the current plastic trigger group. Build one up for each of them. Why do I suggest this? I took my boys up in the local hills today. I could not get a chance to shoot my own 10-22. Both of my boys hogged it and my other rimfire pistols for nearly 500 rounds of rimfire shootin.
-Steve
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Thanks for all the info. That would be a cheaper trigger fix than the complete package for sure. I don't see how just replacing the hammer would be that much different,but I will try it and see.
I know what you mean about eating up some rounds. Thats what I like about rimfire, it is economical for sure.
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The hammer has a better sear notch than the factory hammer. It's also a bit shallower and a different angle. When you replace it, also put shims on the sides of the hammer to center and align it with the sear. You'll get a much more consistent trigger pull. While you've got the trigger group out, don't forget to install that shock buffer.. World of difference in how it feels when you shoot it.
Take a gander here for hours of reading: RimfireCentral.com Forums
-Steve
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Thanks for all the input Steve. All the helpful people on this site amaze me.