Post by: PA BEN on July 01, 2010, 06:31:19 AM
Post by: GoldTip on July 01, 2010, 06:49:59 AM
Post by: demontang on July 01, 2010, 08:00:38 AM
Post by: cwuwildcat on July 01, 2010, 08:17:08 AM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on July 01, 2010, 09:02:21 AM
-Steve
Post by: cwuwildcat on July 01, 2010, 11:57:27 AM
As always, thanks for the advise, Dave
Post by: PA BEN on July 03, 2010, 06:11:12 PM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on July 03, 2010, 11:30:13 PM
What's the trigger weight of that rifle? Still factory stock with no work on the trigger? And, have you moved forward with any glass bedding of the action as was posted in another one of your threads?
-Steve
Post by: PA BEN on July 04, 2010, 06:33:12 AM
Post by: C-Money on July 04, 2010, 06:52:36 AM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on July 04, 2010, 12:14:42 PM
If you don't have that trigger, then I have installed these. They are just as sweet if not better.
http://timneytriggers.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_list&c=8 (http://timneytriggers.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_list&c=8)
Or there there used to be a company called Trapper, that made a three spring kit for the Ruger77 MKII. (can't remember which rifle you have) I've installed them a time or two in Rugers. Trapper springs are listed at Natchez.com, but not for your rifle anymore. I think Trapper is out of manufacturing business now, but you might be able to find some new/old stock with a distributor somewhere.
For the 77 MKII, Clipping coils on the factory spring is a tricky proposition as there's tight coil at both ends so you have to clip VERY small amounts from both ends. 1/4 coil at a time, but you can go too far and ruin the over-all length. This won't affect travel length. Just a little weight of pull.
A little fine stone to the sear and trigger sear notch will make your trigger a bit nicer too. A fine stone won't change angles or reduce travel, you're just looking to smooth things up a bit for a slightly lighter pull.
I'll suspect that with your current groups approaching MOA, then glass/pillar bedding and a trigger job will most likely get you there. Like I said in a previous thread, Pillar/Glass bedding won't make a 2" gun shoot moa, but a stock 1 1/4" gun probably has a little tighter groups left to be found. There might be some brass prepararation in your reloading process that'll help too. The easiest thing to do for the trigger is buy a drop in unit like the Timney, Jard or other brand. Not to discount the skills of a gun smith to pillar/glass bed the action, but that task is not really all that difficult.
Just like building horsepower in a race engine, balance and weight reduction in the rotating mass builds a little more power. A polish in the intake and exhaust ports builds more, bigger intake valve, more lift from the cam, three angle valve job, each allow for more efficiency of the engine. The same holds true with rifles/pistols for accuracy. There's not one single thing that will make a gun accurate, it's the little things added up that produces results.
I am not a gun smith! But I give this advice based on my experience.
-Steve
Post by: PA BEN on July 04, 2010, 07:20:25 PM
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 04, 2010, 08:30:33 PM
I like to set them up as close to the lands of the rifling as possible without contacting the lands thats just how I was taught to load them. So I guess my answer would be this, somewhere between .015 and .030. Watching when you shoot for any pressure sign on the case of course.
same as me we must of had good teachers :chuckle: seat a bullet close but still over load manuals coal and then put the round into the the gun and chamber it then take that shell out and set my die to that length and then put it a tiny tiny bit deeper so it is not sitting the lands but there is nothing of a jump. always had great luck
Post by: KillBilly on July 04, 2010, 08:38:00 PM
My Gun is the m77 markII. My trigger has no creep. Just pull. I've talked to a gun smith about trigger work and he said my gun is the hardest to do. BTW, these groups I shot aren't w/ the best rest in the world.
Check this link: http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&selectOpts=1&products_id=205 (http://www.riflebasix.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&selectOpts=1&products_id=205)
Rifle Basix makes some awesome replacement triggers. I installed one of these for a site member on their Ruger and it made a world of difference. They come with good instructions and you can probably do it yourself.
Post by: PA BEN on July 04, 2010, 10:55:14 PM
My Gun is the m77 markII. My trigger has no creep. Just pull. I've talked to a gun smith about trigger work and he said my gun is the hardest to do. BTW, these groups I shot aren't w/ the best rest in the world.I guess I should post the group. :chuckle: 6 shot group.
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi154.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs276%2FPABEN07%2F0702101817.jpg&hash=edf50152a31bba0fb5bc9ab83bf2a163b72dc778)
Post by: ICEMAN on July 05, 2010, 06:17:49 AM
Next time I reload, I will definitely pay more attention....
Post by: PA BEN on July 05, 2010, 12:42:32 PM
Post by: PA BEN on July 07, 2010, 09:40:22 AM
Load Density http://www.gunnersden.com/index.htm.rifle-reloading-powder.html (http://www.gunnersden.com/index.htm.rifle-reloading-powder.html)
I'm looking in my nosler book for my 7mm-08. I wanted to try RL19 w/150 gr Ballistic tip, but all the loads are 101% 2652 fps to 110% 2862 fps. After what I read you don't want to load over 90%. Cases that are full or compressed charges of powder will accelerate barrel wear in the rifle barrels throat area.
How many shots will it take to wear out a barrel using compressed loads?
Post by: WDFW-SUX on July 07, 2010, 10:00:08 AM
Post by: WDFW-SUX on July 07, 2010, 10:06:59 AM
OK, this is new brass. Winchester. 160 gr Nosler AccuBond, Mag. CCI Primer, 63 grs of RL22 which is max load. The Nosler books says 3058 MV. FPS. I grouped 1 1/8" at 90 yds. My O.A.L. was .013 to .02. I don't know why my die spread was that much. I'm new to reloading but it didn't mater the group w/good. The rest I was using wasn't that good, so these rounds will do for hunting.
measure your brass i bet its not all the same length even if its new. thats what case trimmers are for. :dunno:
Post by: PA BEN on July 07, 2010, 10:36:42 AM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on July 07, 2010, 11:04:00 AM
Overall cartridge length is important. Overall CASE length is also important, if you're looking to wring the most consistency out of your reloaded rounds.
-Steve
Post by: PA BEN on July 07, 2010, 11:17:23 AM
Post by: WDFW-SUX on July 07, 2010, 11:22:39 AM
When seating, As the bullet is pushed into the neck, the neck comes up into the die and an amount of crimp is applied. -Especially with a Lee Factory crimp die. The Hornady reloading manual (and others) illustrate this very well. The objective of the motion is to have the crimp apply right as the bullet is seated/stops. There are many hunting/rifle bullets that have a canelure to crimp into but even those that don't, a correctly set die will still apply a small amount of crimp to the bullet/brass. Most rifle dies apply a taper crimp, (except the Lee Factory crimp die). If your brass is long, more crimp will be applied. Short, less crimp. If the crimps are inconsistent, then the initial pressure build can vary across your rounds fired. That variable/inconsistent pressure spike can create harmonic as the bullet starts moving. Some loaders seat without any crimp applied, but the length of the neck, to extremes, still affects how the bullet starts when the powder explodes. Variables in crimp can account for as much as 50fps of bullet speed difference. 50fps difference down range can mean the difference of your groups of bullet holes touching or not. It's the little things, (as I explained in my horsepower post), that build consistency for accurate cartridges.
Overall cartridge length is important. Overall CASE length is also important, if you're looking to wring the most consistency out of your reloaded rounds.
-Steve
:yeah:
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on July 07, 2010, 11:34:35 AM
Post by: PA BEN on July 07, 2010, 06:22:25 PM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi154.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs276%2FPABEN07%2F0707101714.jpg&hash=2bc32fae75332242b88e88a06c75b8d1ffdc031b)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi154.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs276%2FPABEN07%2F0707101709.jpg&hash=04c992034e30ac121c552c025392a92d53cd84f2)
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on July 07, 2010, 08:24:16 PM
Now prove it... Load some more up identical to prove that you can generate the same results. I'm assuming 100yds.
From the previous post/responses... Of this batch of five shots, were all the cases trimmed to the same length?
-Steve
Post by: PA BEN on July 07, 2010, 09:40:00 PM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on July 07, 2010, 10:49:51 PM
OK, there are even more tricks for more accuracy. We've already talked about pillar/glass bedding the action. You've floated the barrel. Could probably use a trigger job. I don't know that you need to lap the barrel.. ;) There's truing the bolt to the breachface..
OK, I'm no gunsmith.
You could start weighing and separating your brass by weight. You could measure and separate your brass by wall thickness. Then there's the case and bullet concentricity guage.
:o
I think you're doing fine for a hunting rifle though.
-Steve
Post by: PA BEN on July 08, 2010, 06:28:03 AM
Post by: PA BEN on August 21, 2010, 09:19:45 PM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi154.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fs276%2FPABEN07%2F0801101923.jpg&hash=2577e543fb3a9208485ec040768dacdb876d9857)
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on August 22, 2010, 03:18:20 PM
Post by: PA BEN on August 22, 2010, 05:24:27 PM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on August 22, 2010, 09:18:25 PM
Quote
BTW, the one to the right was w/a clean gun oil in the barrel first shot.
Allways know where your cold bore shot goes and dial your scope for that. Having confidence in your first shot is key. As long as your first shot hits where you aimed, then there should be no need for followup shot.
-Steve
Post by: PA BEN on August 23, 2010, 07:37:41 PM
Post by: JackOfAllTrades on August 24, 2010, 03:39:28 PM
-Steve