Post by: GEARHEAD on July 12, 2010, 12:07:11 PM
Post by: let.it.fly on July 12, 2010, 12:12:39 PM
Post by: D-Rock425 on July 12, 2010, 12:39:38 PM
Post by: Button Nubbs on July 12, 2010, 01:04:26 PM
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on July 12, 2010, 01:05:16 PM
Post by: Recurve-Elk on July 13, 2010, 10:42:22 AM
PS I know how it feels making a poor shot. I did it last year. You just got to remember that everyone does it at some point. It sucks, but you can think about it this way. In your eyes the animal is wasted, but in natures eyes that is not so. The native predators will find that animal and eat well for a few days.
Best of luck this year!!
Post by: boneaddict on July 13, 2010, 10:55:14 AM
Post by: JPhelps on July 13, 2010, 11:05:17 AM
I use slick trick standards. Fly well and penetrate. Hard to beat for the price.
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 13, 2010, 11:13:47 AM
Post by: boneaddict on July 13, 2010, 11:57:46 AM
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 13, 2010, 12:21:05 PM
Post by: Recurve-Elk on July 13, 2010, 02:46:53 PM
I wonder how much differently they fly? (Magnus 2 versus 4)
Probably unnoticeable. I had the 4 blade stingers, and buzzcuts. They flew very well. Out of my recurve I shoot the just standard magnus 2 blades. (not the stinger or buzzcut, just a solid steel 2 blade.) And they fly about the same.
Post by: monster10 on July 13, 2010, 08:17:26 PM
new at this thing, been out of it for 15 years, lost a cow that year to an arrow in her shoulder, has haunted me ever since, so i'm a little gun shy. looking at the 125 thunderhead Hellrazor, and the 125 grain G5 Montec CS. Shooting 400 grain arrows. any opinions please. also am i abit over kill with 400 grain arrows and 125 grain broadhead, i know going 340 and 100 will give me a flatter trajectory, i'm just looking for an Elk killing pill.Montec will work great.Hellrazors are also good but seem a bit of the mark at speeds over 300fps.
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 13, 2010, 08:21:23 PM
Post by: GEARHEAD on July 14, 2010, 11:58:55 AM
Post by: halflife65 on July 14, 2010, 01:19:17 PM
thanks for the tips, damn things are so expensive. i'm gonna have to go with one that also offers practice tips, i guess. leaning on the montec CS 100 grain,(1 1/16th dia.) pushed by a 400 gr arrow.
That's a good setup. Killed my first archery buck with that same combination. I've upped the poundage on my bow so I'm shooting 340s now with the G5 Strikers. I thought the original Montecs were hard to sharpen so went to the replaceable blade but I think that problems been fixed with the CS.
You should be good to go with that combo.
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 14, 2010, 01:33:52 PM
Post by: bullcanyon on July 14, 2010, 09:44:39 PM
I personnally shoot slick tricks, but have seen montecs get the job done. Know guys that switched to hellrazors from montecs and claim they are satisfied, but ya kinda have to be when ya spend the coin:) I think the tricks are a good bang for the buck head.
Post by: letmhunt on July 14, 2010, 10:04:12 PM
I wonder how much differently they fly? (Magnus 2 versus 4)
They fly very different, couldnt get the 4 blades to fly true. The two blades are shoulder splitting.
Post by: GEARHEAD on July 14, 2010, 11:35:36 PM
Post by: hughjorgan on July 15, 2010, 12:33:36 AM
I wonder how much differently they fly? (Magnus 2 versus 4)
They fly very different, couldnt get the 4 blades to fly true. The two blades are shoulder splitting.
If your bow is tuned properly they should fly true. I shoot 4 blade magnus heads and have no problem. Fly true for me.
Post by: Button Nubbs on July 15, 2010, 08:49:31 AM
Post by: coachcw on July 15, 2010, 12:21:53 PM
I like the steel forse fathead 100's
Post by: GEARHEAD on July 15, 2010, 01:18:09 PM
Post by: funkster on July 15, 2010, 10:41:41 PM
Then play around with this kinetic energy calculator http://www.archeryhq.com/kin.htm (http://www.archeryhq.com/kin.htm)
There is a lot that goes into tuning an arrow,read up on FOC(front of center). This year I switched to easton 300 FMJ and shuttle T 125 broadheads after having success with slick Trick magnums(100 grain). I put them through phone books,cement blocks,plywood and a tire with no blades broken. A shoulder on an elk is something you don't want to hit but if that situation happens, you want good kinetic energy with a solid arrow and a good solid broadhead that will stay in tack.
Post by: bigbull94 on July 18, 2010, 09:52:50 AM
Post by: Big10gauge on July 18, 2010, 10:32:29 AM
Post by: GEARHEAD on July 18, 2010, 07:32:10 PM
a question regarding arrow weights, gotta pick me an arrow too, is it better to have a 125 gr broadhead with a lighter 9.3 gr p.i. or a 100 gr broadhead with a heavier 10.3 gr p.i. arrow.
Post by: brew on July 18, 2010, 08:07:56 PM
Post by: bonkellekter on July 18, 2010, 08:36:56 PM
Well been googling alot on this looking at forums all over the web, seems to be a few stand outs, that i think i like, the Slick Trick Magnums, Muzzy MX4 and the MX3. think i'm leaning to the slicks, but the price of the muzzy is hard to look away from.
a question regarding arrow weights, gotta pick me an arrow too, is it better to have a 125 gr broadhead with a lighter 9.3 gr p.i. or a 100 gr broadhead with a heavier 10.3 gr p.i. arrow.
Todd_ID has an arrow selection program and good overall knowledge on bow/arrow setups. I am sure if you ask nicely and give him the numbers for your bow and different arrow/broadhead combinations you would like to compare he will run the numbers for you. I have the software as well it has helped me to make the right adjustments to really dial in my setup.
Here is the link where Todd has helped out many other members:
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,43087.msg625129.html#msg625129 (http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,43087.msg625129.html#msg625129)
Post by: huntnnw on July 18, 2010, 08:48:26 PM
Post by: TheHunt on July 18, 2010, 08:56:29 PM
Post by: huntnnw on July 18, 2010, 10:55:16 PM
Post by: DOUBLELUNG on July 18, 2010, 10:59:04 PM
Post by: funkster on July 19, 2010, 10:01:29 AM
Post by: huntnnw on July 20, 2010, 11:04:10 PM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 21, 2010, 02:22:03 PM
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F31xGWfibxdL._SS400_.jpg&hash=2f90b31725ce1d1a9f1a799644b000a350726cb0)
Post by: GEARHEAD on July 21, 2010, 02:35:21 PM
Post by: huntnnw on July 22, 2010, 12:23:48 AM
Post by: Machias on July 22, 2010, 10:52:34 AM
Post by: h2ofowlr on July 22, 2010, 03:49:59 PM
Post by: GEARHEAD on July 22, 2010, 11:41:28 PM
Post by: blackveltbowhunter on July 24, 2010, 10:58:51 AM
Post by: colockumelk on July 26, 2010, 07:55:52 PM
In any case I plan on killing a hog and then using his shoulder blade to do some tests. Should be fun. Now all I have to do is kill a hog. :)
Post by: smartazz171 on July 27, 2010, 11:28:36 AM
i would go heavey over light. the g5 is a great head, bomb proof. use something made of steel whatever you choose. i think the monotec is your best choise. or slick trick magnums. im a big fan of steel since having a thunder head come apart in a doe, and then finding the blades while guting ( ouch ). I am new to the archery elk game. But I had been using 100gn thunderheads. Now hearing that I'm alittle weary about using them for elk. Anyone else have similar problems with thunderheads?
Post by: br8kitoff on July 28, 2010, 05:38:22 PM
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 28, 2010, 05:45:04 PM
Post by: br8kitoff on July 28, 2010, 09:38:15 PM
Post by: Crunchy on July 29, 2010, 11:56:09 AM
Just under 64#, no digital scale just the pull one at the bow shop :dunno: which gives me about 3 extra grains.....Thanks for that post....scared the crap out of me :yike: so I went and rechecked and i shoot the realtree arrow which is 9.7 gr/in which is 281g, not the standard which are 8.7 gr/in which was what I originally quoted..oops need 378 for 63# and 384 for 64# :o
I think your way off on your actual arrow weight.
Post by: colockumelk on July 29, 2010, 02:03:12 PM
Post by: br8kitoff on July 29, 2010, 04:15:28 PM
Outside Diameter....Shaft 7595....0.300 inches.....Spine....340....Shaft Weight......9.7Gr/inch....Length....32"
All arrows come prefletched, knocked, and with the insert....leading me to believe my estimation was right. I never actually weighed them. When I get home tomorrow i will put one on the poweder scale. Maybe I can crank my weight back up....I switched about 5 years or so ago and didn't want to, by my calcualtion, shoot a 35" arrow....huh if you guys are right i should be able to slide back up to around 70# :)
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 29, 2010, 04:29:31 PM
Just under 64#, no digital scale just the pull one at the bow shop :dunno: which gives me about 3 extra grains.....Thanks for that post....scared the crap out of me :yike: so I went and rechecked and i shoot the realtree arrow which is 9.7 gr/in which is 281g, not the standard which are 8.7 gr/in which was what I originally quoted..oops need 378 for 63# and 384 for 64# :o
just wanted to make sure you did not get introuble over to light of arrow :IBCOOL:
Post by: Crunchy on July 29, 2010, 04:47:55 PM
i looked back at the site and this is what i found.....
Outside Diameter....Shaft 7595....0.300 inches.....Spine....340....Shaft Weight......9.7Gr/inch....Length....32"
All arrows come prefletched, knocked, and with the insert....leading me to believe my estimation was right. I never actually weighed them. When I get home tomorrow i will put one on the poweder scale. Maybe I can crank my weight back up....I switched about 5 years or so ago and didn't want to, by my calcualtion, shoot a 35" arrow....huh if you guys are right i should be able to slide back up to around 70# :)
the 9.7 per inch is just the arrow shaft. If they are 7595s it must be the camo shaft.
Post by: br8kitoff on July 29, 2010, 05:11:19 PM
Post by: WonkyWapiti on July 30, 2010, 11:11:31 PM
alright, did a little research thanks for setting me straight on arrow weight. guess i do want 340's shooting 67 lbs. going with the easton n-fused axis, still researching ballistic charts to save time, money and arrows, bore sighting by computer, lol. guessing using my 20 yrd pin as a zero, 30 yards may be plus 8" and 40 yards may be plus 20" @ 260 fps. generaly speaking does this sound fair.
Hey Gearhead I'm shootng n-fused 340's with a 66 lb draw weight on my Alphamax 32. I'm using 100 grain Hell Razors and this setup punched straight thru my elk last year.
Post by: br8kitoff on July 31, 2010, 12:05:18 PM
Post by: zpoolman on August 10, 2010, 01:06:01 PM
Post by: Wetwoodshunter on April 28, 2017, 08:19:01 PM
Last year I shot shuttle T's, this year I was looking at sticking with them. Or using Rad's new Phelps design, G5 monotecs, slick trick magnums, or I can get screaming deals on rage products but I'm not sold on mechanicals for elk.
Post by: JBar on April 28, 2017, 08:30:03 PM
Post by: Tjv28 on April 28, 2017, 08:59:28 PM
Post by: northwesthunter84 on April 28, 2017, 09:20:38 PM
Post by: Wetwoodshunter on April 28, 2017, 09:33:29 PM
Running the Rad Rivals this year, liked the shuttle T's but prefer to support local quality businesses.
That's where I'm at I have two friends that work for trophy taker now option archery but Dan sold the shuttle T off and it's going to get made on the other side of he country with who knows the quality control.
Post by: demontang on May 01, 2017, 02:21:18 PM
Post by: Wolfdog2314 on May 01, 2017, 02:41:30 PM
http://radicalarchery.com/radical-broadheads/
Post by: RayPenGame on May 11, 2017, 06:58:49 PM
Post by: WapitiTalk1 on May 11, 2017, 07:14:25 PM
Post by: kentrek on May 11, 2017, 07:18:39 PM
I'd say don't over think it ;). I've shot elk dead with Thunderheads, Muzzys, Satelllites, Wasp Cam-Locks, Dartons (bet you guys didn't know they made a BH back in the day), Bears, Shuttle T's, etc., etc. Find what flies like your field points (after bow is 100% tuned) and whatever is on the tip of your arrow will kill an elk. Anything modern that cuts on contact is a consideration for initial penetration. I've been playing around with the Magnus Buzzcuts this spring and am impressed with their accuracy and penetration on my Rhinehart target so they may get the nod this fall. It's always fun to consider and try out new BHs that fly well ;)
:yeah:
If your arrow is slow go with the cut on contact long and narrow....if it's fast then pick a theory and have at it.....cant go wrong as long as you kill stuff :chuckle:
Post by: trophyhunt on May 11, 2017, 07:42:38 PM
Post by: WapitiTalk1 on May 11, 2017, 07:52:14 PM
Sorry if asked already, but why are the shuttle T's dull out of the package? Is that part of the design and how they work? I use them and have seen the damage they do, looks like a gun shot. So, do I leave them dull or sharpen them?
Always best to sharpen whatever BH a person uses to a razors edge for max effectiveness. Not sure why some BHs don't arrive razor sharp in package?
Post by: trophyhunt on May 11, 2017, 08:17:12 PM
What your saying makes perfect sense, but the hole these bh's make going in are amazing and I just wonder if it's part of the design?Sorry if asked already, but why are the shuttle T's dull out of the package? Is that part of the design and how they work? I use them and have seen the damage they do, looks like a gun shot. So, do I leave them dull or sharpen them?
Always best to sharpen whatever BH a person uses to a razors edge for max effectiveness. Not sure why some BHs don't arrive razor sharp in package?
Post by: kodiak 907 on May 11, 2017, 08:18:59 PM
Post by: Rainier10 on May 11, 2017, 09:04:50 PM