Post by: boneaddict on July 17, 2010, 09:50:08 AM
Post by: Hunterman on July 17, 2010, 09:59:13 AM
Hunterman(Tony)
Post by: Button Nubbs on July 17, 2010, 10:01:41 AM
Post by: boneaddict on July 17, 2010, 10:12:59 AM
Post by: boneaddict on July 17, 2010, 10:31:43 AM
My bow is 70 pounds at 28 inch draw so at 32 its probably more...... I guess I'd be in the trad category with 32 inch at 70+
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv47%2Fboneaddict%2FAntler%2520Images%2Farrowselect.gif&hash=a6d29952fe4e6fd11bcc9e6ab1c1a65793db8111)
Post by: boneaddict on July 17, 2010, 10:32:24 AM
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on July 17, 2010, 10:56:24 AM
if the nock point on your string is too high, the shaft will fly and land nock high.
If you start with the nock low, the shaft flies nock low and hits nock low. If the nock point is too low, the shaft will bounce off the shelf of rest and give the impression that the nock is high. Therefore, always start with the nock too high.
For a right-handed shooter, an arrow to the right denotes a staff that is spined too weak. In the event that the full length shaft is to the left of center for a right handed shooter (opposite for a lefty), denotes a shaft that is spined too stiff,
you want to "bare-shaft week, After fletching, shoot your finished arrow into the target’s center at a distance of 20 yds. You should discover that your slightly weak bare shaft is no longer weak and is hitting the center of the target. This validates the reason to tune for a weak bare shaft. The application of cresting paint/wraps and fletching stiffens the spine of the shaft, thus moving it to the left for a right handed shooter. Had the bare shaft been tuned to hit center, the completed arrow would have been slightly stiff and incapable of allowing the shooter to obtain the best accuracy. :twocents:
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on July 17, 2010, 10:58:24 AM
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on July 17, 2010, 11:00:33 AM
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on July 17, 2010, 11:02:59 AM
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on July 17, 2010, 11:06:46 AM
the bow is 70@28? WIth you drawing it out to 32 that puts the draw weight between 82 and 86 #'s.....:yeah:
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on July 17, 2010, 11:09:19 AM
Post by: rasbo on July 17, 2010, 11:17:44 AM
Post by: boneaddict on July 17, 2010, 12:33:40 PM
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on July 17, 2010, 12:59:05 PM
But in my experience a bare shaft that is tail high and to the left, would be nock high and too stiff.....
I would get a handfull of mixed arrows, shoot them all, and see what spine is on the ones that hit the target best (center of group)
Also, what weight head/tip is on these arrows ?
is it the same weight you plan on hunting with ?
Post by: boneaddict on July 17, 2010, 01:06:05 PM
Does a heavier arrow have much effect of settling them down. I was thinking about adding inserts or some weight.
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on July 17, 2010, 02:25:02 PM
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on July 17, 2010, 06:59:59 PM
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on July 18, 2010, 12:59:48 AM
a heavier arrow might settle it down, I know they reduce hand-shock and quiet the bow some by absorbing more vibration.....
Post by: boneaddict on July 18, 2010, 10:41:36 AM
Post by: boneaddict on July 18, 2010, 10:48:10 AM
Post by: Big10gauge on July 18, 2010, 10:54:08 AM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 18, 2010, 01:37:55 PM
Yes, you are about 70@32.
This bows riser is cut deeper than your old one, so a weaker arrow flies better out of your older one, even though its a bit heavier bow. If you were to use thicker material on the side plate of this bow, it would also take a weaker arrow, but I'd recommend staying with the 75/95's..
You shooting split finger? The first thing you want to do is get your nock point set. So, take 2-3 of those 75/95's with NO feathers on them, and 2-3 with feathers, stand at about 15-20 yards, and shoot them all at the same spot... are the bare shafts hitting low or high?? Lets back up one step... do you have a bow square? If so, put your nock point a good 5/8 to 3/4 inch above square. I'm not sure why, but my bows have always preferred a higher nock point. If your arrow is hitting much lower than your feathered arrows, then lower your nock point about 1/16 inch and so on, untill they come together...all shafts, bare or feathered, impacting about the same height....
Then... are your bares hitting left or right of your feathered groups? Those 75/95's are likely a bit stif, so they "SHOULD" hit left (the bare shafts should be left of the feathered shafts)...BUT....if they are way too stiff...you can get a false reading and they may show right, but you should hear a pretty good thump on the riser......
Post by: Hornseeker on July 18, 2010, 01:39:48 PM
Confused yet??
1st things 1st... go shoot the bare shaft groups with the feathered groups...do it with both sets of arrows and tell me what you see....
Post by: boneaddict on July 18, 2010, 01:40:18 PM
Post by: boneaddict on July 18, 2010, 01:43:00 PM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 18, 2010, 01:50:58 PM
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on July 18, 2010, 02:46:04 PM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 18, 2010, 08:06:19 PM
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on July 18, 2010, 08:39:34 PM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 19, 2010, 08:00:10 AM
Something people do a lot of, myself included (in the past) is spine too stiff. A weaker spine is a little more forgiving really..
Post by: boneaddict on July 20, 2010, 04:26:10 PM
Post by: boneaddict on July 20, 2010, 04:29:16 PM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 20, 2010, 04:58:46 PM
3 or 4 either way... dont matter. 4 will stabilize better, all else being equal, but if your arrows are tuned good to you and your bow, you only need a few 3"ers... otherwise...hell, use 4 @ 5" and that will stabilize anything! :rolleyes:
Post by: STIKNSTRINGBOW on July 20, 2010, 07:13:41 PM
Something else to ask....when I finally go with these new arrows. What do you guys think about fletchings. I like to shoot feathers (not plastic) 3 4 or 5 inch and do you shoot 3 or 4 of them.I have 4 fletch on my "Sweetlands" (compressed cedar), with a 160 gr Grizzly, but they are 4, 4" and seem to make more noise (almost a buzz) than my 3, 5" helicals on regular cedar, but fly almost the same...
(70#@28", pulling 29.5"=74#+)
I got the arrows in trade, so I like them, but sometimes think about getting them re-fletched.....
Post by: NWWABOWHNTR on July 20, 2010, 09:11:47 PM
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 20, 2010, 09:23:18 PM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 21, 2010, 07:36:23 AM
My trad arrows are done up with 3 straight fletch, 2.5" blazer cut feathers... fly like darts with field points or broadheads. However, my arrows are tuned such that my bare shafts hit with my feathers at 50 yards...
Post by: boneaddict on July 21, 2010, 09:03:11 AM
Quote
Whatever you do...DONT put the broadhead on a bare shaft!
You could have said that before I drained the pool. :chuckle: (kidding)
Post by: Hornseeker on July 21, 2010, 11:02:04 AM
So Doug, my hunting partner Barri drew an unreal elk tag... that buffer zone tag just north of where we hunted together.... VERY jealous!
Post by: carpsniperg2 on July 21, 2010, 11:24:36 AM
Post by: boneaddict on July 22, 2010, 06:29:13 AM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 22, 2010, 07:12:54 AM
Post by: Recurve-Elk on July 22, 2010, 10:16:12 AM
As far as fletchings go. I started with 3, strait 4 inch feathers. Didn't like them too much, so I went to 3, strait 5 inch parabolic feathers. Seem to be great for me. I have a jo jan mono fletching jig and it makes re fletching very easy.
Hey if you are still looking to get your weight up, I seriously recommend the weight tubes. They don't mess with your spine nearly as much as heavy inserts and such do.
I was tuning my bow a few weeks ago and had the same problem. Turned out I just had to move my nock point up about an 8th inch. I think its sitting at just over a half inch above center. With a good clean release the arrow shoots like a dart. I had the same symptoms as you. Arrows were ripping up and left when paper tuning.
Now if that doesn't solve your problem, and you can't cut your arrows, and buying new shafts is not an option. The options you are left with are:
1. Lighter head+insert
2. Longer fletchings. (this should be your last resort as this doesn't solve the issue, just hides it.)
To give you an Idea however, I am shooting full length 5575's with 125g tips, and 5 inch feathers out of my 57lb recurve and they shoot almost perfect with a clean release. So to me sounds like your spine is too weak???
Post by: boneaddict on July 22, 2010, 07:54:33 PM
Post by: Hornseeker on July 23, 2010, 10:03:34 AM
Did you ever get your bares impacting with your feathered shafts at 20 or 30 yards? To really fine tune, if you can pull it off, as you get closer to tune, you can shoot them at like 50 yards. That will REALLY tell you whats going on. The Olympians shoot there bares with their fletched at 90 meters....
At that point though, you will get a flyer now and again because of release issues....release has to be about perfect to get good flight at long distances with bare shafts.