Post by: Coasthunterjay on March 28, 2008, 01:53:26 PM
Has anyone else painted there big game hunting rifles instead of having them re-blued professionally?
I dont want to paint the whole rifle just the exposed metal......
Post by: robodad on March 28, 2008, 03:03:25 PM
What calaber is it ??
Do you want to sell it or trade it ??
Post by: Bscman on March 28, 2008, 03:08:52 PM
It's also very cheap if you already have the spray setup. I can do any rifle in one color for about $15-20 in materials. It sure revives old, well used shotguns and rifles.
I love HK Black (semi-gloss). It looks great, even against a nice wood stock.
I wouldn't used a typical spray-paint. Most aren't very good with chemicals, are prone to chipping, etc.
Alumahyde and Cerakote are other options that are pretty cheap--I've heard good things about both but never tried them. One (or possible both?) are available in spray cans, so you don't need a compressor, airbrush, etc. like you would with duracoat.
Best of all, all these options seal off the metal so you don't have to worry about moisture and rust like you would with bluing.
Post by: tlbradford on March 28, 2008, 03:55:13 PM
Quote
(its dry to the tough in hours, but takes a month to fully cure).
If you are just doing the metal, stick it in your oven and bake it for a while.
Post by: Coasthunterjay on March 28, 2008, 04:38:18 PM
No don't paint it !!
What calaber is it ??
Do you want to sell it or trade it ??
I dont want to sell it i want to protect it.......But i am not a big fan of the Old school blueing.....Which is what it is...I think it was made in 1973.....
Post by: Coasthunterjay on March 28, 2008, 04:42:32 PM
Quote(its dry to the tough in hours, but takes a month to fully cure).
If you are just doing the metal, stick it in your oven and bake it for a while.
You seriously want me to sick my rifle in the oven? What?
and i have an airbrush and compressor......Will it come out in a matte finish? how long does the duracoat last?
Yeah i really like that it keeps the moisture and salt, and dirt off the gun, Keeping it more protected........
Post by: MikeWalking on March 28, 2008, 05:01:47 PM
Quote
You seriously want me to sick my rifle in the oven? What
Under 200 Degrees less than 1 Hour That is if you chose to bake it that way and make a jig to hold the barrel.
More IS NOT better. I know of a buttload of helicopters grounded, some ditz thought if 200deg at 1 hour degreases struts then 400deg at 4 hours is better!!?? Can you say erased heat treat. An audit found the record and grounded a lot of birds in service.
Post by: Coasthunterjay on March 28, 2008, 05:19:40 PM
QuoteYou seriously want me to sick my rifle in the oven? What
Under 200 Degrees less than 1 Hour That is if you chose to bake it that way and make a jig to hold the barrel.
More IS NOT better. I know of a buttload of helicopters grounded, some ditz thought if 200deg at 1 hour degreases struts then 400deg at 4 hours is better!!?? Can you say erased heat treat. An audit found the record and grounded a lot of birds in service.
Thats funny. I have heard of similar stories with other parts of helicopters.....
people sure do over abuse the stupid card.....
Post by: PolarBear on March 28, 2008, 05:23:59 PM
Post by: Coasthunterjay on March 28, 2008, 05:33:27 PM
Post by: ICEMAN on March 28, 2008, 07:53:10 PM
Post by: Coasthunterjay on March 28, 2008, 08:32:46 PM
Rhinolining!
the barrel not the stock
Post by: KillBilly on March 28, 2008, 08:49:33 PM
Post by: Bscman on March 28, 2008, 08:53:42 PM
It's very tough stuff...very scuff/scratch/chip resistant and stands up to a LOT of wear. It's also nearly impossible to sand off, and a LOT of people have RUINED parts trying to sandblast it away.
Yes, baking it will make short order of the curing time...
If you want to completely protect it, duracoat is a great way to go...just make up your mind before you do it.
And again, make sure it's FULLY cured before you get too aggressive with it. I'll usually wait at least a week or two before even attempting to re-assembly. It's fairly soft before it's fully cured...and remains somewhat flexible when cured. A big benefit on firearms, and chipping is common with harder coatings.
Post by: Bscman on March 28, 2008, 09:01:29 PM
Before:
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv68%2Fbobcat50%2Fmak3014noserial.jpg&hash=f79bb010cf41debe37f27b7eb4f98096e376b38f)
After:
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fv68%2Fbobcat50%2Ffirearms%2Fbulgymakafter2.jpg&hash=39ff245227e559dd0daffd6ff20e90b27aa6c436)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.brigadegunleather.com%2Fmisc_pics%2FIMG_4259_mak.jpg&hash=13da9ca8cdc359d0b34aa76945e486abfd421e17)
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.brigadegunleather.com%2Fmisc_pics%2FIMG_4387-web.jpg&hash=d79be6ca40fb041ebb1e39b324ab7cd31e6a7d93)
Post by: Coasthunterjay on March 28, 2008, 09:12:22 PM
You said you can do it for how much?
Might be easier having someone who nows what there doing, do it, versus a newbie......
How hard is it to get a good even spray?
Does it come in a matte black? what about the tip of the barrel? the hole?
Post by: Bscman on March 29, 2008, 11:29:06 PM
If you can spray cheap enamel and get a good finish, you can spray duracoat. Set 'er up about 40lbs and let it eat--don't try and "thin" it, just add the catalyst and go. It sprays like any other paint.
The big key is in the PREP.
I always blast the parts in the sandblaster before I spray. I will parkerize all the small parts I can (my tank is only 18", so that restricts most barrels!). Duracoat will adhere to a smooth surface, but likes a rougher surface (like most other coatings) to get a good "tooth."
Next step...DEGREASe...then do it again, just in case.
I start with something simple, like "Simple Green" for the parts cleaner. After than I like to heat the parts with a heat-gun, just enough to open up the pores of the metal just in case any oil is trapped. Then I'll wipe it down one last time with acetone.
Now, spray away.
Let it sit a few hours before handling it...and like I mentioned before, let it sit at least a week or two before assembly. It's designed to cure SLOWLY to stay somewhat pliable. This is why duracoat excels--it's not hard and brittle like most other firearm "paints."
It'll suck up dings and scuffs, rather than chip and flake like a lot of other finishes.
You can buy the complete kit to spray duracoat for ~$50, but it comes with compressed air in a can and a cheap single-action airbrush.
The tru-strip degreaser in the kit is nice, but a warm acetone bath won't leave any residue and works just as well (cheaper).
As mentioned, avoid reducer.
So all you're left with is the duracoat and hardener--which can be had for $16 per 4oz. That's enough to do two typical rifles (or three complete handguns, from my experience).
So if you already have the room, the airbrush, and some basic tools, the coating itself + degreaser is going to run you under $20 each if you coat two rifles.
Most "pro" finishers are asking ~$150-200 to completely do a typical rifle for you.