Hunting Washington Forum
Community => Taxidermy & Scoring => Topic started by: tony04 on November 24, 2010, 09:46:06 PM
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i have a coyote and a bobcat that i am thinking about tanning my self. im thinking about just making them into endtable rugs. problem is, i have no clue on what solutions to get, and what works best. i was looking at Van Dykes and they have SO much differant stuff for tanning. i dont really know where to start.. also, to get a soft leather dont you have to work the leather? i read some where that a dull axe head in a vise works well. the yote would be a practice run, so hopefully the bob will turn out better.
another question is about the hair setting solutions that i see.. what are those for? i read that it prevents hair slip. what causes hair slip?
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Hair slippage is cause by bacteria.
Every animal has bacteria living on it , it's entire life. Once an animal dies it imediatly begins decomposing due to this bacteria. Each hair is held into place by a little flesh bulb on the end of the hair root. The bacteria eat away at this bulb and that is what causes hair slippage. Once that fleshy bulb on the end of the hair root is gone nothing can be done to set the hair in the damaged area.
The only time bacteria is stopped is when a hide is 100% frozen or when it is split, fleshed, and salt dried and the moisture level in the hide is below 15%.
Now the colder the hide is the slower the bacteria will work but it never stops. That is why you can't store a hide in a cooler or in a frig for an extended period of time.
Also NEVER "SALT" a hide and than put it in the freezer it does more harm than good. Ever put salt on ice? It melts the ice. You put salt on a cape and it will never freeze solid.
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If I were you I would look at a EZ-100 or Lutan F tanning kit. For starters I would buy a Kit and not all the individual chemicals. Also most importantly keep cloose watch on the pH in your pickle and tan.
Check out WASCO @ www.taxidermy.com (http://www.taxidermy.com) for both kits.
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Good info Michelle, thanks.
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Ohh yeah and the "Hair Setting Solution" is basically a bacteriacide that kills bacteria on a cape. It doesn't actually "set" the hair. It is either alcohol based or a mild acid based. I have used Stop Rot before on iffy capes but I would not say it "saved" an iffy cape that salt wouldn't have done.
Each skin, wether it be a cape, hide, or fur is individual. There is no way of telling what types of bacteria are on your animal. Sometimes an animal can be sick or have a disease but to you and I looks healthy. There are a lot or different factors out there that can affect the quality of a cape. Also the type of animal itself can play a huge factor. is it a small game animal? Big game animal? Is it a predator? Is it a small game predator (bobcat coyote, etc)? Some animals are more prone to slipping that others just because of there hair root structure and the type of bacteria they are exposed to.
All those field care guides and instructions that taxidermists hand out. Even if you follow them to a "T" they are not a 100% guarantee your hide will not slip. That is why most taxidermists put in there contract "We do not guarantee tanning".
Now just because I said that doesn't mean get lazy and go well if following it isn't a guarantee my cape will make it than I will leave it in the back of my truck for a week. :bash:
By following those field care guides of instructions you are helping to ensure your cape will make it through the tan but there will always be a hide here and there that will leave everyone scratching there heads as to why it slipped when everything was supposedly done "right".
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thanks Michelle! that helped alot!
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Moyle Mink and Tannery probably do them for less then $60. Don't make sense to do it yourself unless you want to be able to say you done it yourself.
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Thanks for the info Michelle. You are a great help.
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Michelle you always have very useful info and are very willing to share... I know my brother in law has benefited from your info... Especially with some of the tubed out dawgs he has done... Thankyou! :bow: