Hunting Washington Forum
Big Game Hunting => Bow Hunting => Topic started by: zackmioli on December 07, 2010, 03:55:05 AM
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Hey guys, I have always rifle hunted but after going to Montana this fall to call for my cousin who was bow hunting elk I am pretty sold on giving it a try. I am hoping to get a bow for christmas, if that doesnt happen I will be purchasing one shortly after the holidays are over. I am just looking for any kind of tips and advice, brand of bow, draw weight, arrows, different gear I might need, new strategies I might need to be aware of, etc.
So if you are willing to share anything I would love to hear it and I would really appreciate it. Oh and I will be able to set up a shooting area at my grandfathers house so Ill be able to get lots of practice.
Thanks!
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make sure you have lots and lots and lots of time to devote to practicing and being in the woods! Shot my first buck with a bow after 15 years of bowhunting last night. Practice, Practice, Practice.
Other things I have learned this week: Set your poundage to a weight you can comfortably and quietly pull back without making noise, Have a decent sight (when in a blind it gets darker quicker than outside need to be able to see. I reccommend the tru glo 5 pin progressive sight. Love that thing.), Don't use a whisker bisquit (I have drawn back on 5 bucks this week, and 3 of them heard me pull back as my arrow slid across my whisker bisquit. A good quiet fall away should do just fine.), and lastly, be patient and don't give up. (an hour before I shot my buck yesterday I had another nice buck at 20 yards, pulled back, placed my pin perfectly, and let fly. I have never seen a buck drop so fast so quickly. I dropped just enough for me to see my arrow fly right over his back. Told myself I was done with this crap and thought about leaving. Good thing I stayed.) So be Patient! This is a very rewarding sport!
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We have lots of ranges in Washington find one close by and spend some time shooting. 3-D shoots are great practice for hunting.
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you don't need a $1000 70 pound bow. 60 pounds is plenty for just about anything in north america, and there are some great less expensive bows out there. try to go to shops and shoot bows before you make a decision. one might seem great on paper (or the web) but if you hate the draw cycle, it's not a good fit!
oh, and as for fit, make SURE to get fitted to the bow! too long or too short draw length will give you hell.
i'm hunting with a 60lb Martin MOAB. walla walla made bow, great customer service, good shooting bow! i like my tru-glo 5 pin and QAD drop away. I'm a bit backwards from most guys, as i still shoot aluminums. i like the idea of never worrying about an arrow splintering and gigging my hand! :yike: they're heavy, but fly nice and slide right through a deer!
enjoy the sport! it's a blast!
heath
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You are in the right place for astarting point for archery information. When I sell bows to people that are not familiar with a bow. I always tell them to shoot every bow that they can and then come shoot my bow so they can have something to gauge it by. There is not a one-size-fits-all mentality when it comes to archery. Archery is geared toward the individual. If you like it then buy it. Don't let someone tell you this is the ONLY way to do anything. Many deer do get killed with bows that have whisker biscuits on their bows and with aluminum arrows as well. These products are looked at as older technology and it is but that doesn't mean it will never work. Try to buy the best that you can afford. Look for companies that stand by their products and that have a good track record in doing so. Finding a good trusted bow shop is important too. Even if you have to drive farther to get good service, do it. Having a poorly set up bow is extremely frustrating. Read everything that you can get your hands on about archery. Many bows are adjustable, but don't think you can adjust it to fix bad shooting or equipment.
Good luck. In my opinion every bow should have LimbSaver vibration equipment. I shot a loud and slow Alpine for a few years and even managed to take an elk with it. It shot great and I had LimbSavers on the limbs with a modular stabilizer, they were key in helping me shoot and taking my first archery kill. Don't take my word for it...go try them at your nearest pro-shop.
my first elk, bow. Only a $200 bow!
(https://hunting-washington.com/smf/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi127.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp125%2Flilswab%2FCowElk025.jpg&hash=1c3ab526c11791850211033ff40799542f34094d)
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thanks for all the info so far. keep it coming!
what are some good archery stores in western washington? rainier archery?
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I'm a bit backwards from most guys, as i still shoot aluminums. i like the idea of never worrying about an arrow splintering and gigging my hand! :yike:
Though I've heard of this happening, between myself and 7 bow shooting friends who have thousands of shots with carbon arrows under our belts, none have had anything remotely close to this happen. If I'm going to worry about something like that, I might as well stay home so I don't get in a car wreck on the way, which is alot more likely to happen, IMO!
Rainier Archery is an OK store, I've been to 4 or 5 shops in western Wa. and like a couple others better. XXX Archery across the bridge in Rainier Or. is a good store and I also really liked the archery store I bought my 1st bow from between Burien and Des Moines, can't remember the name but they were very helpful to someone new to archery, didn't have the arrogant attitude some stores seem to have when dealing with new customers to the sport. :twocents:
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I'm a bit backwards from most guys, as i still shoot aluminums. i like the idea of never worrying about an arrow splintering and gigging my hand!
I shoot Easton Full Metal Jackets, I get the best of both worlds, the straightness and flexibility of carbon, but the slickness of carbon and not having to worry about splintering. Sure, you pay for them, and they are heavy....but the weight helps to slow down the arrow out of my X-Force.
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Before you buy a bow, shoot many. Considering your lack of experience with bow hunting and archery in general, I suggest trying not only compound bows, but recurves as well. I've been shooting compounds for many years but started with a bear recurve and loved it. Take your time making your choice. Good to see another aspiring bow hunter.
Good hunting.
TC66
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Muzzleloader season is a better choice. :rolleyes:
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Though I've heard of this happening, between myself and 7 bow shooting friends who have thousands of shots with carbon arrows under our belts, none have had anything remotely close to this happen.
of course you're correct... i've never seen it happen in person, but carbons just kinda leave a bad taste in my mouth. plus, XX75's are cheap! :P
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DB they realy heard you draw thru the wisker biscuit?
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i have a buddy that got busted on the draw through a noisy biscuit 3 times his first year. he doesnt have a WB anymore! :chuckle:
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Zack,
You may want to try a longbow or recurve also. They have a long pedigree in the sport. Howard Hill, Fred Bear, Ben Pearson, Byrun Ferguson.
Just a thought.
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DB they realy heard you draw thru the wisker biscuit?
Ya. Couldn't freakin believe it. Been shooting it for 4 years now and this is the first time I actually had a deer bust from pulling back. Not sure why, but it was kind of a scraping noise, real light, but enough to scare the hell out of a deer at 20 yards. Getting a new bow this spring and will not be shooting a whisker biscuit on the new one.
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Take your time and shoot lots of bows... then pick the one that feels best to you. Now I am a traditional only shooter.. hunt with a longbow and do all the competitive tourneys with a recurve or longbow. However, if you are headed towards a compound, take a look at the new Bowtech Assassin it is fully set up for $599.. beats spending $800 for a bow and then another $300-400 on rest, stab, quiver, and sight. If you are going full out then also take a look at the Maitland Retribution as it may be the smoothest, quietest bow out there right now in my opinion. I think WIlderness Archery in Bow (just north of Mt Vernon) is the only shop that carries them in Washington.. www.wildernessarchery.us (http://www.wildernessarchery.us) Roger there will take good care of you. If you want the full bowhunting experience then stay away from the training wheels and pick up a decent recurve or longbow! ;)
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Find a bow you like and shoot it alot.
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Shoot as many bows as you can. Don't lock in to just one manufacturer. Assuming you will be looking at compounds, You will most likely need to visit several shops to do this. After you've shot a few you'll get to know what feels good to you. The accessories for a bow can really add fast. Look for a package deal that includes most everything you need. Sights, quiver, arrow rest and maybe a stabilizer. The other thing you my need is mechanical release. Try lots of those as well. There are lots of options out there. Try as many as you can until you find one you are most comfortable with. Then do as the man said shoot some and then shoot some more. Then shoot a lot more.
Good Luck. Archery hunting is a blast.
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I shoot a Mission X3 which i think is a great bow and not all that expensive. I think a bare bow brand new runs about 300.00. I also have been shooting 2213 Easton Aluminum arrows ands 125 grain field tips and broadheads. Went with a 5 pin Spott Hogg sights.
If you are looking for good shops there is Kitsap Archery out in Belfair. A guy named Charlie owns the place and i willing to share his knowledge with you. Also in fife is Sportco.
Shop Ebay for arrows and accessories as they are way cheaper than the stores but stay away from online bows unless they are new in the box as you never know how a used bow has been treated. Also i just got a good Buckmaster target block from Wal-Mart for about $40.00. Good luck and i hope you enjoy the sport.
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thanks a ton everyone! i will definitely keep everyone updated when i start going to archery stores and checking stuff out. me and a buddy are both going to get into archery this year together so it should be quite the adventure. im sure i will have a lot more questions as i get further into this! :IBCOOL:
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When I started bow hunting about 4 years ago, I started at Cabelas in Post Falls, ID. They have a good archery staff and they set me up in a good beginner bow just to see if I would like the sport. I fell in love and will never go back. I tried muzzleloader hunting also for a few years. I live in north central WA about 3 hours from Spokane and 2 hours from Wenatchee. There is a little outfitter in Omak WA, Cascade Outfitters that I do all my archery purchasing. Richard is very knowledgeable about bows and bow hunting. If you ever get up this way, check out his archery shop. He carries Mathews and sells used bows that a lot of hunters have traded for a Mathews. Good luck.
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Hey guys, I have always rifle hunted but after going to Montana this fall to call for my cousin who was bow hunting elk I am pretty sold on giving it a try. I am hoping to get a bow for christmas, if that doesnt happen I will be purchasing one shortly after the holidays are over. I am just looking for any kind of tips and advice, brand of bow, draw weight, arrows, different gear I might need, new strategies I might need to be aware of, etc.
So if you are willing to share anything I would love to hear it and I would really appreciate it. Oh and I will be able to set up a shooting area at my grandfathers house so Ill be able to get lots of practice.
Thanks!
If you want to come over sometime I'd be happy to spend some time with you on shooting form, shot routine, bow set up, etc. I can get you going on elk vocalizations at the same time. No charge or anything, just glad to help you get started right.
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Practice practice practice. Just when you think your getting good practice more.
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as everyone else said PRACTICE!!!! but also get a range finder and practice judging yardage.. I have seen alot of rifle hunters pick up a bow and since they are not used to seing animals closer than 100 yards they tend to get real exited (I guess thats what you call it) and start flinging arrows at animals that are way too far, next thing you know there are animals walking around with arrows in the ass, legs, head, and so on
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A good place to get some help is Great Northwest fishing and Archery Doug is a real nice guy very helpful!! They have an indoor range and are there by Skookum Archery Range.
Scott
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too many guys get caught up on the bow itself. when bowhunting and learning to bowhunt, the bow itself is the least of your worries........... with that said......... don't get hung up on speed when buying your bow. too many people forget that bowhunting is about stealth and "the game" is played at close range....... if you need speed to extend your range, keep the rifle in your hands. just about any 50lb@28" compound on the planet these days will blow through critters with absolutely no problem. heck, i blew clear through a big wisconsin buck this year (2 ribs total) and as the arrow came out, it filleted the off side rear leg between the knee and hock (steep quartering to shot) before the broadhead burried into a fallen branch. the buck i killed here in WA got two ribs busted and an off side leg busted (no passthrough). both of these were with a RECURVE PULLING 43@28"!!!!! i've burried arrows up to the fletch with 50lb recurves and longbows on big bulls and never, not had an exit wound on elk with those same weight stickbows which put out probably 1/3 the energy of todays compounds. make sure you find the most forgiving bow possible vs. the fastest.... trust me when i say that foam and flesh are two different animals... i have seen guys that can circumsize a gnat at 50 yards but when that buck steps infront of them, they can't remember their first name let alone keeping proper form and following through when shooting at that live critter..... and with these newer highly reflexed bows with crazy let-off, good form is not an option, it is manditory.... by the way, a buck or bull that just had an arrow pass through it can't tell the difference if the arrow was going 180fps or 280fps (none of my deer, bears, elk or caribou could but i guess none of them lived long enough for me to ask them either ;) )..... and both speeds will produce passthroughs with the right broadheads. with bows, you always give up something to get something. it's too bad nobody makes the good old truly forgiving compounds anymore. regardless, arrow placement is MUCH more important than draw weight or arrow speed..... you hit the thick part of a shoulder plate on an elk, moose, or hog, and it is game over nearly every single time...... doesn't matter how fast your bow is. practice with whatever you have and be honest with yourself as to what your max effective shooting range is..... if that means you are proficient at 15 yards, hold off on a 20 yard shot. ;)
like i said before, the bow is not nearly as important as learning how to get within bow range of game. it is amazing how many guys i know and have met over the years that have the latest and greatest equipment, spend every second of free time at the range (and some are phenominal shots) but very rarely put game on the ground, let alone mature animals. scouting and learning about your quary is the key.... spend 90% of your time scouting and 10% shooting your bow and you will be deadly.
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too many guys get caught up on the bow itself. when bowhunting and learning to bowhunt, the bow itself is the least of your worries........... but......... don't get hung up on speed. just about any 50lb@28" compound on the planet these days will blow through critters with absolutely no problem. heck, i blew clear through a big wisconsin buck this year (2 ribs total) and as the arrow came out, it filleted the off side rear leg between the knee and hock before the broadhead burried into a fallen branch. the buck i killed here got two ribs busted and an off side leg busted (no passthrough). both of these were with a RECURVE PULLING 43@28"!!!!! i've burried arrows up to the fletch with 50lb recurves and longbows on big bulls. make sure you find the most forgiving bow possible vs. the fastest. with bows, you always give up something to get something. it's too bad nobody makes the good old truly forgiving compounds anymore. regardless, arrow placement is MUCH more important than draw weight or arrow speed..... you hit the thick part of a shoulder plate on an elk, moose, or hog, and it is game over nearly every single time...... doesn't matter how fast your bow is. practice with whatever you have and be honest with yourself as to what your max effective shooting range is..... if that means you are proficient at 15 yards, hold off on a 20 yard shot. ;)
like i said before, the bow is not nearly as important as learning how to get within bow range of game. scouting is the key.... spend 90% of your time scouting and 10% shooting your bow and you will be deadly.
Excellent stuff! To your point about FPS, I always say that fast bows just miss faster. Shot placement and razor sharp broadheads are the keys to quick, humane kills, period. Welcome to the site, by the way!
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too many guys get caught up on the bow itself. when bowhunting and learning to bowhunt, the bow itself is the least of your worries........... but......... don't get hung up on speed. just about any 50lb@28" compound on the planet these days will blow through critters with absolutely no problem. heck, i blew clear through a big wisconsin buck this year (2 ribs total) and as the arrow came out, it filleted the off side rear leg between the knee and hock before the broadhead burried into a fallen branch. the buck i killed here got two ribs busted and an off side leg busted (no passthrough). both of these were with a RECURVE PULLING 43@28"!!!!! i've burried arrows up to the fletch with 50lb recurves and longbows on big bulls. make sure you find the most forgiving bow possible vs. the fastest. with bows, you always give up something to get something. it's too bad nobody makes the good old truly forgiving compounds anymore. regardless, arrow placement is MUCH more important than draw weight or arrow speed..... you hit the thick part of a shoulder plate on an elk, moose, or hog, and it is game over nearly every single time...... doesn't matter how fast your bow is. practice with whatever you have and be honest with yourself as to what your max effective shooting range is..... if that means you are proficient at 15 yards, hold off on a 20 yard shot. ;)
like i said before, the bow is not nearly as important as learning how to get within bow range of game. scouting is the key.... spend 90% of your time scouting and 10% shooting your bow and you will be deadly.
Excellent stuff! To your point about FPS, I always say that fast bows just miss faster. Shot placement and razor sharp broadheads are the keys to quick, humane kills, period. Welcome to the site, by the way!
Great points guys. Effective shooting range. Just because you have pins does not mean you can KILL out that distance effectively. I ran into many hunters that gamble on questionable shots because they don't try to get closer. :puke: It just doesn't make sense to wound an animal! Know yourself, Know your prey, Know your equipment!
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Lots of good advice here. Here are some of my random ramblings hope they make a little sense- As stated before dont get to hung up on equipment, but..... be confident with it whatever your choices are. Second guessing sights, rest, bow,arrows etc.... may seem foolish to others but will affect YOUR performance cuz you begin to doubt yourself. And practice, practice, practice! Shooting your bow whether traditional or compound should be like second nature to you.
Archery hunting is far different from rifle and can be frustrating depending on the tactics you have perfected in your rifle hunting years. Example: If you have primarily hunted deer from treestands, ground blinds, or are an excellent still hunter, the transition to archery hunting may require only moderate tweaking to your tactics. If you have hunted spot and stalk on the other hand, drastic changes in technique are sure to follow.
For elk a six point bull at 300 yards feeding will pump u up, the same bull at 20 yards, slobbering, bugling, and thrashing may cause you to have a heart attack, much less hold your composure through a shot sequence and follow through.
Pay attention to an animals posture. Body angle, and level of alertness. IMHO this is priorty number one prior to taking a shot. I may get razzed for this but here goes; in my experience your better off taking the first shot you KNOW you can make at an undisturbed animal, than a closer or clearer one at game ALERTED to your presence.
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Blackvelt, you're unethical. I would only shoot at XX yards (pick a number) and you don't have the ability to shoot that far, so you shouldn't. There, took care of that.
Now that I've unfairly blasted Blackvelt, the advice is actually really good.
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http://www.washingtonarchery.org/clubs-shops.html (http://www.washingtonarchery.org/clubs-shops.html)
Find a club near you or a good shop... nothing like making some friends to help with the shooting skills and someone to practice with... :twocents:
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Blackvelt, you're unethical. I would only shoot at XX yards (pick a number) and you don't have the ability to shoot that far, so you shouldn't. There, took care of that.
Now that I've unfairly blasted Blackvelt, the advice is actually really good.
:chuckle:
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Hey guys, I have always rifle hunted but after going to Montana this fall to call for my cousin who was bow hunting elk I am pretty sold on giving it a try. I am hoping to get a bow for christmas, if that doesnt happen I will be purchasing one shortly after the holidays are over. I am just looking for any kind of tips and advice, brand of bow, draw weight, arrows, different gear I might need, new strategies I might need to be aware of, etc.
So if you are willing to share anything I would love to hear it and I would really appreciate it. Oh and I will be able to set up a shooting area at my grandfathers house so Ill be able to get lots of practice.
Thanks!
If you want to come over sometime I'd be happy to spend some time with you on shooting form, shot routine, bow set up, etc. I can get you going on elk vocalizations at the same time. No charge or anything, just glad to help you get started right.
thanks a lot! i will definitely be in contact with you once i get my bow set up and ready to shoot! im going to start looking at different bows in the coming weeks and will be at the sportsmans show looking at stuff as well. i already have a range finder so that is at least 1 thing taken care of. haha.